The problems I have found with a hacksaw blade parting tool are overheating, burning, and jamming, as has been experienced here. One thing I found essential was to remove the teeth, mainly for safety reasons, but also for function, as the teeth are wider than the cutting tip, and so tend to jam, or if you prefer, snatch, and the contact causes heating. When the teeth are removed, its also beneficial to very slightly taper the sides of the blade, by removing a little of the edges, this reduces contact with the sides of the tool, and the wood, which in turn reduces friction heating, and burning. It may also be beneficial to reduce the width of the blade from the back edge, to reduce contact, and therefore heating. Also, if you make the cutting point as close to the teeth as possible, thats where the hardest metal is, it will stay sharp a lot longer. [The reverse of the example here] Hacksaw blades are made with two hardesses, a very narrow very, hard area where the teeth are, and a less hard area for the back of the blade. In the final view, [7 mins on], the two areas can be seen clearly. Another useful extra, is to spray the blade with pure wax furniture polish, but make sure its just wax, plus a propellant. I bought some furniture polish and sprayed various steel tools, including my planer bed, to prevent rust, and the next day they were all rusty as hell!

Good video. I use a metal saw blade to part off too. I remove the tool rest and put the teeth under the wood and carefully completely part off the wood using the saw teeth. I don't have the tool rest in my way and it works fine. You were using the tool rest and you were trying to use the teeth on top of the wood. I do the underside of the wood. Maybe try your tool that way. Nice job on the handle too.

@Rolingmetal

6 жыл бұрын

I will give that method a try. Thanks.

The new tool performed well. It will actually do even better if you re figure the end without it turning blue. To do this you need to feather it into the stone and dip in water while shaping. Oce the steel has turned blue the temper in that are is lost and the steel will not hold its edge as well.

Works better than I thought it would I wasn't doubting you ability to make one I just thought the blade was to thin good job at making a successful tool. I have been working on my metal lathe and had a catch and bent a half inch bolt like a pretzel and needed to tram it in. I was up until 1am and got it to .00045" over 3"

@Rolingmetal

7 жыл бұрын

I was worried that the thin blade might be to flexible but so far that's not a problem. The small blade might damage the toolrest over time.

The pattern you noticed in the first piece of wood is called spalting. Highly desired by many wood turners. It is formed by fungi as they consume the wood. The lines are boundary markers to keep other fungi away. The black line will be good wood. The area within the black lines is slowly consumed by the fungi. If the process is not stopped the wood becomes soft and like powder. In the US this is called "pumky" wood. Not good for turning if too punky. Sara Robinson is an expert on spalting. She has done research to grow the fungi in the lab and is working on how to extract the various colours from the fungi. The black pattern is the most common. A KZread video if you are interested. kzread.info/dash/bejne/mIuZxtWgm9Leibw.html The new parting tool is working well. It needs some side clearance. Your diamond parting tool shape provides side clearance with the diamond points on the side. If you widen the path similar to what you did for the final parting, the tool will work better since there will be less friction. The tool has a lot of surface area in the cut Widening the path will allow more of the force to go into cutting and not overcoming friction. I tried using a wood saw with the lathe turning. I observed the same as you - it did not work. The wood is moving much faster than the saw can cut so the saw ends up bouncing on the wood. The parting tool saw side may cut if you cut by hand with the wood stationary. The teeth have very small gullets since intended for cutting metal, so the gullets will fill up fast then they will not cut well. Good job on the new parting tool. I like the curved shape you ground. Well done. Nice to have a good result.

@Rolingmetal

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for explaining that. The video was also very interesting. Brought me right back to my school days when I was playing with agar and all kind of cultures. Especially yeasts for making beer :) You're right, the tool could use some clearance to reduce friction. And I guess the friction increases when the tool heats up. I think I'll grind en bit of from both sides near the tip. I dont want to make the part where it rests on the toolrest any thinner. But so far I've been pretty please with the results.

Well, it certainly works. I don't think thin tools like that are meant for going very deeply into the wood. As I understand it (and I'm no expert) they're for tasks like parting a bowl off a glue block or adding thin lines to a project like a honey-dipper. I think your tool could do both. Nice work!

@Rolingmetal

7 жыл бұрын

Lots of drag when you go deep. It could use some clearance.

You actually wear wooden shoes ?

@Rolingmetal

7 жыл бұрын

Yes. the are great around the house. But I don't like them for longer walks. They suck when driving a car and snow sticks to them like glue. But the are keeping your feet warm in the winter. Much better then my safety boots. I would say, go get a pair :)

Laughing from the pieces of wood that popped of the chuck

@Rolingmetal

7 жыл бұрын

That red alder wood was rather week :)