Just watched this brilliant video as I’m looking at buying a SL-10 and then read that Nick has passed away. Rest in peace Nick

@mescko

3 ай бұрын

Oh, man. 😢 I didn't know 'til now. I've so enjoyed his videos. RIP

Hi Nick, Yesterday, I found an SL-10 for practically nothing, but it the tonearm wasn't moving. Thanks to your detailed instructions (there was quite a bit of grease everywhere inside the mechanism) I managed to get this beauty running again. You have my eternal gratitude. Keep up the great work.

Fantastic walk through..Thank you! It has given me the confidence to have a go at my SL-10 that has the same problem! much appreciated!

Thanks to your two videos, I have been brave enough to service my two SL-10's, clean and re-lube, remove the puck, replace the drive belts and cartridges and now they sound great and work smoothly. Cheers Nick!

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Well done. All the best and spin on.

@willissudweeks1050

3 жыл бұрын

How did you get that arm to move the needle over? I have one of these and that's all that's not working. I got it at a thrift store for like 3 dollars!

Great video, with lots of great service information. Thank you so much for taking your time to do this.

Thanks for uploading this video. I am planning to buy SL-5. In india these kind of linear tracking tables are rare.

Fixed my 1983 SL-10 today. Thanks for these excellent instructions. Rob Smeets, Netherlands.

Thanks Nick, your video helped me to confidently venture into an SL-7 that I purchased last week of eBay. The seller had one with the rubber belt completely off and wondered why it wasn't working so sold it cheap as "spares or repairs". Looks like his loss was my gain as I've put a belt on and it works! I've cleaned off all the old grease which takes a fair amount of time and have been researching what kind of grease to use on the gears and guide rail. I came to the conclusion that the nylon worm gear runs fine dry and the metal tonearm guide feels smooth anyway. To my surprise I've come back to your video and read the comments that you didn't re-grease everything either. I wonder why so much grease was used at the factory? Like the gentleman who commented here, the grease on the tensioned wire was black, as was the grease in the puck for me. I think that will be the only place where I'll be replacing the grease. It's a shame no oiling or greasing procedures are in the service manual. The only issue I'm having at the moment is there's a scraping sound in one spot when the arm travels to the left, it's fine when travelling all the way to the right. It's bugging me, so I'll have to find a way to trick the player into thinking the lid is down and about to play while I actually have the cover off. Your rubber belt seems a little too loose, so I recon a new one would be the icing on the cake.

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Andrew. Well done. I like the SL-7 very much. I think it is visually more attractive than my SL-10 which is a solid square. If your lid catches are not broken, then you have scored a good one. Scaping noise. It could be the plastic cover over the wires, that moves with the arm

@johns.7609

3 жыл бұрын

I found an SL-7 today at a thrift store for $5. It needs work. Arm is stuck. The platter won't start turning with the Start button unless I manually ensure the arm is fully right first. There's a little play up there and I don't think it likes being anything other than fully right to start. Not sure yet. Hope I can get mine working. It's in really good aesthetic condition.

Many thanks for the information Nick. Great Video. I have an SL-5 which is slamming the stylus into the disk, so I'll be taking mine apart soon to show folks how to do this...

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Daddy Ginn. Let us know how you get on. All the best. Nick

Hello Nick, Thanks for the reply. I really like the turntable and only replaced it because it was acting up. I will tear it down and do a bit of service to it. Regards, Scott

Very interesting. Thank you!

@nickadams5411

8 жыл бұрын

+AtaruMor0boshi Hi The only fault I have found with these Technics is the grease on the shaft. The electronics and build quality are rock solid reliable.

I had the same issue with my SL-10 The problem was the tonearm motor was seized. If you can get to it and turn the motor shaft by hand, with the help of some lubricant, you will be able to loosen it. Mine has worked fine ever since, going on 6 years now.

@nickadams5411

8 жыл бұрын

+beninski707 Hi, yes, most faults are simple and just the grease and lubrication. They are very solid build. If you still have the MC cartridge they sound excellent. Nick

Great video which helped me get my tonearm advancing again after it got stuck. My issue now is figuring out how to get the whole hinge and stay back reattached. The whole apparatus, the stay itself along with its holder came off when I was disassembling. And I have no idea how it goes back together.

@nickadams5411

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Did you look at the service manual? You can get it from (free, just register) www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-10.shtml

@instantfizzdesign

6 жыл бұрын

I did, yes. They don't really show much about the stay; nothing about the pieces to it. Basically, I can't figure out how to attach it to the plate. It's been beguiling and frustrating me for days now.

Hi Nick, I purchased the SL7 version which I regrettably sold to a friend complete with it's original box, packing and transit screws. When he moved I asked him if I could buy it back. Negotiations failed so I tried to buy one on ebay. This seller put it in a jiffy bag and posted it. Not surprisingly it arrived absolutely wrecked with a bad dent in the metal casing and the cover clips broken. The seller got very angry when I suggested his knowledge of mass and inertia were lacking and that was why the turntable got smashed. I did manage to buy another which came with the brilliant Technics cartridge the EPC205C Mk3 which was a Sure V15 killer. In the days of ultra high compliance cartridges the Technics had a Boron stylus tube which was much better at tracking than Shure V15 Mk 3 and 4 It won several rave reviews in it's day. The Old SL7 ~ well it does play of a fashion if you tape the lid down with gaffer tape. It's nice to see that the SL10 comes apart more easily than the SL7 Thanks for the video

@nickadams5411

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Jeremy Yes, the broken players in the post. I have had many. You scored with the EPC205C My SL10 has the original EPC-310MC, but they are fragile, so be careful with that pipe.

@jeremyclayton-travis1991

7 жыл бұрын

I brought one of the cartridges direct from technics via the rep and got it for a bargain price. It was quite fascinating when Shure were producing the ultra high compliance cartages like the V15 III and IV It was all about SME arms and ultra low tracking weights. Technics came along and moved the gateposts quite significantly.

Great video, thanks for uploading. Trying to disassemble mine at the moment, but I cant figure out how to get the lid of the little clip you refer to at 10:31. Perhaps I'm just being to careful with it, but dont want to break the plastic. Any tips?

@nickadams5411

8 жыл бұрын

+Steinar Borgen Hi Just pull the edge away it a bit harder, the plastic will bend a little. Nick

Hi. I just unboxed a brand new SL7, the arm is totally fixed, not moving even if I try with my hand. Before trmoving the lid and see what happens inside, is there any lock in the arm I'm missing?

Hello Nick! Thanks for posting the videos regarding the maintenance for the SL-10. I bought a new one in the 1980s and have never had to have it serviced. I recently replaced it with an Audio-Techica 1240 because the SL started having some issues. The SL will start to play a record and within 3-5 minutes the tone arm lifts up and returns to the resting position. Do you think that the issue may be as easy a fix as opening the top of the case and cleaning it up? Regrease the ball bearing etc... I appreciate your time and hope to see a response at your leisure. Sincerely, Scott

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Scott. Those type of problems are caused by the old grease on the arm tracking shafts, belts and gears. They can be cleaned up without having to replace any parts.

Hi Nick, Thanks so much for your service information video. I've got an SL-6 in California that I picked up yesterday in a thrift shop. It's not as fancy as the SL-10 in your video, but for the most part, this turntable looks very nice and plays correctly. Unfortunately, sometimes the tonearm/cartridge assembly "hangs up" on the rails. I was guessing that possibly something was causing the tone arm to slightly jam, causing the record to skip. I haven't taken my player apart yet, but, just to be clear, are you saying there shouldn't be any grease on the rails, or should there be a light coating of fresh grease there? Thanks a lot, Tom

@nickadams5411

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Tom Clean off all the old grease. The plastic will slide even without grease, but if you have some very light grease, but not 0il as that can dry up. If you take it apart, be careful with the black sliding cover over the wires, that it is fitted correctly or it will jam half way through the record. Let me know how you get on Nick

@THOMMGB

7 жыл бұрын

Hi Nick, Thanks so much for getting back to me. I was able to raise my top lid and depress the small switch at the rear of the base. Normally this switch is engaged only when the lid goes down. I could then operate my turntable where I could view the tonearm/cartridge mechanism operating. There is grease there, but it is very sticky and needs to be removed. I do have some clear light grease called Super Lube. It's a synthetic grease with PTFE that's been recommended for use on an older turntable mechanism I serviced. I have no idea how long this turntable has been sitting, but I imagine it's been quite a few years. I've found that by playing it and monitoring the operation, that it seems to be getting better and better. Having said all that, I still plan to clean off the old grease with some kind of solvent and use my Super Lube. I'll keep you posted as to how all this goes. Thanks again for all your help. Regards, Tom

Thanks for this video - I am hearing a low 'thump' sound in between tracks. I am thinking of opening up the unit and greasing/oiling the gears / bearings...may also change the belt. But not sure if this will fix? (or if the low thump is how the unit performs in general)

@nickadams5411

8 жыл бұрын

Hi The thump could be the tracking motor trying to move. Check on the run out grooves if the thump speeds up as it runs out to the end. Or If it occurs exactly on every revolution, then there must be something touching or seized' like the pressure pad. Try rotating the pad by hand to see if it is really free. The platter is direct drive. There is a cable that pulls the assembly, but it must run free on the tracking rod, so make sure that is very clean.

Just wanted to thank you for the great info. I have secured one of these via EvilBay and it needs work so this vid will be invaluable. My plan is to eventually use this in the vertical aspect. I want to Bluetooth it to my Technics amp. Yeah, I'm not expecting miracles and I'm no audiophile. Quick question. The unit I'm getting has a Ortofon TM20H cartridge. Not sure if its MM or MC, any info I find is sketchy. My question is depending on whether the cart is MM or MC will I still need to ground the turntable to my eventual choice of Bluetooth transmitter if in fact I'm utilizing the internal pre-amp of the SL-10. Or indeed will I still need an external pre-amp before the BT Transmitter, no matter the flavor of the stylus? Hope this makes some kind of sense. Many thanks in advance...

Hi my National SL N15 does not start or cue, when touching needle gives signal. Not spinning any initial thoughts

Hi, maybe you know. I have a problem with my sl 10. The arm stops 5mm before touching the return switch. The cord is right, averything is right. So if I play a record that ends near the center groove, the arm return before song ends I repeat, it stops before activate the return switch

Hi, Nick - I have an SL-10 but not the power cord! Cannot find it. Is this a universal kind of cord, or does it have a number associated with it which I can use to shop for one??

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Cynthia. It is a standard " Figure 8" power lead. Ebay or Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Mains-Power-Lead-Black/dp/B000I2JUOC/ref=pd_vtph_lp_t_3/260-9124336-2098636?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I2JUOC&pd_rd_r=ebbb9f3d-81eb-11e9-8993-cb2d847a8b8c&pd_rd_w=7vP37&pd_rd_wg=PH3DN&pf_rd_p=eb02db1b-a172-4b0e-887c-299e5e502bb0&pf_rd_r=GM3RNAZAJCJ2WB83X1CF&psc=1&refRID=GM3RNAZAJCJ2WB83X1CF

How did you remove that final clip near the record clamp? I have all the screws out in order to replace the cueing belt but got hung up there. Don't want to snap anything. Cheers and thanks for the great video.

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Joshua. You have to gently pull it, until it is free.

Hi Nick, Great video, lots of information , thank you for uploading. I have an SL 10, its in pretty good condition, it tracks to the end fine, however i find it may lift up randomly when playing records, would you happen to know if there are any adjustments that are easy to make that would stop this. Kind regards, Jac.

@nickadams5411

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Jac It may be the arm is not keeping up with the stylus, so the angle gets too great and the arm lifts. There are 2 potentiometers for electronic adjustment. But I think it is more likely the cable or carriage is sticking. Possibly the motor belt has stretched and is slipping. Check it first and see that it is fairly tight.

@jaccharlton3146

6 жыл бұрын

Nick Adams thank you for your quick reply, much appreciated. I’ve ordered a new belt from the UK so lll have a go at changing it and see what happens. I’ll let you know the results. You’re video instructions invaluable, thank you.

Appreciated the video. Have you ever worked on a Technics SL-Q5 where it seems to slow down after a bit, the platter seems to slow after 4 or five beats if that makes sense?

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Owen. Not sure exactly, does it stay slow, or speed back up. It is possible the speed adjustment pot VR310 is bad connection. I would turn it a few times, and lubricate with switch cleaner if necessary. After that if no change then check table revolves without friction, and then check all connections that are not soldered on the circuit board.

@owenheuston9571

5 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Thanks, that's what I was thinking also.

Hi Nick. Can you think of any reason the player would automatically stop playing, and the tone arm go back into the starting position after about 30 seconds of play? Every record I try plays for about 30 seconds and then the tone arm automatically goes up and back. Thanks a lot for the videos!

@nickadams5411

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Alex Did you take it apart, or has it started doing it. The carriage sometimes catches on the sliding black cover, over the wires, under the two rails. If you do not re assemble it correctly. The slider has a piece sticking out, and it must be inside the other part of the cover, so it can go fully in as the arm moves across the record.

@alexsnyder2123

6 жыл бұрын

I have not taken it apart. I thought I would ask you first. I am the original owner and I know it hasn't ever been taken apart. I'll take a look at that black cover. Thanks for your thoughts...

Duh! I just read your response regarding the same issue just a few posts back. I will pull it apart and clean it up and regrease. While I am working on it, should I replace the main belt for turning the platter? Thanks!

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Scott. The platter is direct drive, so does not have a belt. One advantage of direct drive. Keep spinning. Nick

Hi, these look like great record decks! I just bought a Technics SL-L3 off eBay(fully working). Not got it yet! But seller seems decent and player looks ok! It has original cartridge and P33 stylus. I'm guessing it hasn't got a built in pre amp - is that right? SO, I'm going to run it via an external pre-amp (Behringer PP400 I'm purchasing off Amazon for 20 quid) then plugging it into my new Logica Z623 2.1 computer speakers on the spare input with RCA jacks/leads. Will that work ok,? Just wondering? Not got loads of money or huge space for large expensive hifi systems, but want to get back into vinyl records!

@nickadams5411

8 жыл бұрын

+comicmania2008 Hi , Yes the decks are very good. The P mount cartridge can sound a bit bright (sibilant) on some systems. There is no preamp, but the output is reasonable, so that PP400 should be fine.

Hi Nick, any chances to find a video like this but on SL-6? mine is broken, the belt broke loose and the arm doesn't move anmore Help!

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi John A bit of a fiddle, but similar operation. have a look at the Service manual (Register and it is free): www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-6.shtml All the best. Nick

Hello Nick, Thank you for this video and your other one too. They guided me through opening up my 1980 SL-10. The dial cord is covered in some kind of black lubricant like graphite and has accumulated in the idler wheels as well. Is this normal? Should the dial cord be cleaned and re-lubricated? Is it supposed to be dry? Also the dial cord is sagging on the upper part between the gear drum and idler 4 ion page 9 of the SM. But, the bottom cord between idlers 4 and 5 is quite tight. Is this normal? The only issue my SL-10 has is tone arm intermittent hesitation or sometimes it just won't move but the motor is humming away. I have a new drive belt on order but am concerned the drive cord between the gear drum and idler 4. Hoping you might have time for a reply.

@nickadams5411

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Randall The dial cord should be cleaned and kept clean. The cord should be tight all the way top and bottom. There is a tension spring in the large gear wheel. Make sure the small wheel (4) can rotate freely. Clean the guide rails and wind the motor , as in the video, to check smooth movement. You may have to take off the cord and check the wheels and parts are moving freely.

@randallreihing261

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Nick, Thank you for your reply. I cleaned the dial cord and the wheels with camera optics grade alcohol cleaner and cotton Q tips. The cord tightened up very slightly. Both #4 & #5 wheels are very free. Cleaned the guide rails with alcohol. The motor turns smoothly. The tone arm moves smoothly it's full distance from rest to rest. The tension spring is okay. The motor belt appears to be stretched. Cleaned with alcohol but still loose.I found a new NOS belt eBay in the UK. What is the black graphite like lubricant on the dial cord and all wheels? Should the dial cord be re-lubricated? Can I use 3 in 1 oil for the wheel axles? Nick, I never would have attempted this without your excellent video's. What lubricant is used for the tone arm guide rod? Thank you.

@nickadams5411

6 жыл бұрын

Hi The guide rods do not need lubrication. The plastic slides freely. The cord does not need the (graphite) grease. I am not sure why they used it. The cord cannot stretch. It must have slipped from the spring clamp in the large wheel. It must not have any slack. 3 in 1 oil can be used on the wheels, but the plastic has very little friction. If the cord and wheels are not moving freely, then the motor belt will slip.

@randallreihing261

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you Nick. The dial cord is clean. Wheels 4 and 5 always rotated very freely & are now oiled with 1-2 drops of 3 in 1 oil. Also lightly oiled the cavity just below the threaded part of the platters drive axle. The new motor drive belt arrives from the UK around Feb. 28. The tone arm drive motor rotates very freely. Your video's image of the cover's washer was critical. I had stopped there fearful of breaking the cover and/or the top acrylic plate. I will post results when the new motor drive belt has been installed. Thank you for taking the time to create your two excellent SL-10 videos and for replying to my questions, without which I would have not known how to proceed.

Thanks for your great video. Helps me a lot. At 12:35 you talk about the tension of the wire (belt) which mooves the mmc. Mine is really loose. How can i change the tension? Regards from germany

@nickadams5411

7 жыл бұрын

Hi The drive cord is held by a spring in the larger wheel behind the circuit board. The dial cord is tensioned by the spring. Check the spring is still in place. The cord cannot stretch, so make sure it is on the two small wheels. Let me know nick

Hi Nick, great video. I resurrected my SLV5 after some 25 years. It still works but is running slow on 33rpm. Do you suggest it is due to dry grease and the small rubber belt needing replacing.My guide rail is quite black, should it be light grey if free from sticky grease?

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Andrew. You should try and remove any grease from the sliding rotating parts. I think the colour was dark on this unit. Wipe your finger on it and see if it is clean. You should be able to rotate the belt pulley by hand, and feel the slide moving without drag. The deck runs on a centre bearing which should not have any drag, since the linear motor is quite powerful. The speed will probably be an electronic adjustment Technics SL-5 speed adjustment is possible from VR201 (33) and VR202 (45). Is possible to see small holes on the under side of turntable. When making this adjustment MUST make 45 first then make 33 adjust second. If not marked. The 45 hole is the one nearest the bottom of the unit (Where the connections are etc). Use a small flat blade driver. Adjust the 45 pot first, then listen to 33 before altering that. Happily just changing the 45 sorts the 33 out at the same time. All the best. Nick

@andrewfeldt2713

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Hi Nick, thanks for the reply. I removed the dust cover and cleaned up as much grease as I could. I noticed the white wheel/worm gear was covered in yellowish grease. Should this be old gunk be removed and re-greased? I noticed when I operated the unit without the dust cover, that the worm gear and belt rather than moving continuously it seemed to move incrementally every couple or seconds or so - is that normal? Changing the speed has helped somewhat, I'm just trying to get it right The manual talks about attaching a stroboscope to set speed - do you know how that attaches?

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

@@andrewfeldt2713 Hi Andrew. Try and remove as much of that yellow grease as possible. Use an old toothbrush to scrub it off. It is not necessary to use any new grease. The linear tracking does move in small increments. You can buy or even download and print, a stroboscope array. It is placed over the centre shaft instead of a record. It will flicker as long as you have a fluorescent llight shining on it (which is 50hz light pulses). you then adjust the speed until the array stops moving. I am sure there are videos on youtube on how to do it.

@andrewfeldt2713

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Thanks Nick, I'll get cleaning that stuff off. The speed has settled down a bit. The old girl hasn't been used since 1996!

Hello sir we have the same turntable and the same problem. The tonearm is stuck on the end I did not see how you manage to make it work. Can you please elaborate on it. Thanks from the Philippines

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Gino. Remove the drive cord and clean all parts to remove grease. Clean the guide tubes so that the cartridge arm can slide easily. Clean the drive cord and make sure the motor and gears turn easily. All the best Nick

Hi nick thanks for your video, i have a similar problem but in my case the stroboscopic light just flash the light when i turned on and then the light turned off so the platter turns so fast more than 45 rpm i think, the arm is stuck and it doesn't move at all, what do you think that is wrong with my sl10, thanks for all

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Repair the arm. The sliding and the cable. Then the stobe may start to work.

@RoqueDJ2000

5 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Thanks nick, I'll try this way

Hi Nick. Great video. I have an SL-QL1 running brilliantly and recently got an SL-10. The issue with the SL-10 is that the arm drive motor is frozen. Is there a chance it's gummed up with grease like the guide shafts were and will break free, or is it likely broken and needs to be replaced? Have never opened that up before (if it even can be...)! Thanks much!

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Rory. Well done, the SL-10 is a fantastic player. They do gum up badly, especially the guide rods and rotating gears. It is unlikely that the drive belt or anything is broken, unless someone has forced it. It is fairly easy to clean the old grease off, but you will need some cleaner spray. I then use a toothbrush and cloth etc to dissolve and remove. Just work the grease away with the toothbrush. It is not necessary to grease/oil after cleaning, as all the parts are low friction plastic , anyway. Let me know how you get on. All the best spinning. Nick

@rorymasini

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 So all that is good and clean, moves freely, just that the motor is seized. I found someone in a forum had just forced it free, someone else SOAKED it in 3-in-1 oil and got it to work. Thoughts?

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

@@rorymasini Hi Rory. Yes, spray something like WD40 into the motor, and it should free it, with a little force.

@rorymasini

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 Worked like a charm. NOW, cueing works, etc. BUT when it starts playing it just skips towards the center. Checking the manual to see if it's a weight adjustment, etc. Thoughts?

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

@@rorymasini Hi. The stylus point may be damaged. The playing weight does not normally need adjusting (it can only be changed by 1/4gm). It is possible that the arm is sticking . Start playing, then disconnect the power. Open lid and see if arm can be freely moved up and down, with little force. Another, more difficult problem, is that the tracking sensor and feedback loop is not working or needs adjusting. You will need the service manual to do that. Let me know. Nick

At 10 :46 you talk about a clip ....can get it away can even find it....thats something you didnt choose to show. Was that to difficult to show?

Hi, Nick, thanks for the amazing videos on linear TTs. Wonder if you have an idea what going on with my Technics SL-10. It is getting some sort of periodic low frequency noise, it sounds just like, if you'd imagine a non-linear turntable for a moment, when someone closes the acrylic dust cover very gently during playback and the stylus captures that bump, so it sounds like a little periodic knock on wood. I hear it only on very silent moments (between tracks for instance). if I'm not wrong, in the past I used to hear that on fewer albums, and mostly very near the end of the record only (like during the fade-out of a last track). Now, it seems to be everywhere in which there's a low volume passage, from lead-in to lead-out. At the end of the side, it's particularly louder. I compared home recordings using my SL-10, from a year or two ago versus what I get now, and I'm nearly sure It's gotten worse. I've watched the turntable behavior closely and I can confirm the noise appears when the back portion of the tonearm (the part with the led forming a red arrow) moves a bit (not necessarily when the stylus moves, it's when the back of the arm moves). Would you guess it is the belt? The arm seems to move freely. Only two things happened from the time it was better to the present situation: I stopped using the Sl-10 for 10 months, and, also, just before I started using it again I opened the dust cover and adjusted the lead-out screws, but the lead-out "fork" piece and the 2 screws felt inside the SL-10, so I had to open it fully (without taking out the circuit), find them, and put them back in their right places. I never even touched or took a look at the belt. Thanks again!

What's wrong with an arm that goes all the way to the end of the record and won't stay put? I want to try n fix it myself? I replaced the belts on this turntable.

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Make sure you clean the old grease off the moving parts. Also make sure the sliding cover over the wires is not catching on anything.

you skip the important part bro, please show how to dismantle the control plastic cover

That break cleaner absolutely destroys plastics. I have a motorcycle, I use it often and I know how aggressive it is.

Hi Nick I have a Sl 5..problem I have is that only one channel works..any idea what it could be? Thanks

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Shahed. The signal travels from the cartridge and out through the phono cable. It could be the cable, so you need to check it starting at the phono plugs to see if there is a break in the wire or a short circuit. Then check the cartridge, it is easily removed and then plug back in, just in case the plug in connections have become bad after many years. A couple of plug in and out should clean them up. If still no joy, it is possible the cartridge has failed, but that is rare. If it has failed, P mount cartridges are still available and not too expensive. All the best. Nick

@elvisrafi

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 thanks for your quick reply. I've changed the cartridge and I've checked the phono outputs and they seem fine.

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

@@elvisrafi All you can do is check the continuity of the cable from the cartridge plug in connections to the phono plug. There must be a break or short circuit. You will need a test meter (Ohmmeter)

@elvisrafi

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 I will give it a go! Thanks

Just bought one, very nice machine, currently working OK. Do you run as service and repair business?

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Wayne No, I just repair things for satisfaction. I do sell Radio Control as my business. I prefer old things to fix, as I am rather old now.

@waynegrundy6710

5 жыл бұрын

Nick Adams thanks for video, it will hopefully help me to keep mine going! Is there a “modern” grease you recommend for the rod that the arm tracks across? Mine appears to have quite a thick coating of clear grease.

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi Wayne Wipe off the old grease. There are many slippery greases. Some start out very slippery, but dry out over time. Graphite grease is good. Teflon (PTFE) grease should be good, but I haven't tested it over a few years to see if it dries out. Others are Molybdenum, and ones with Boron. Most of these greases are used in models on small gears etc, so a model shop is a good source.

Hello Nick. I am the original owner of an SL-10. It still plays records but appears to have developed a sound wobble. Any tips on how to cure this? Cheers!

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

Hi. A sound wobble is very unusual. Also it depends on the detail of the wobble and if it continuous or just in certain places. It is possible to test the motor/platter operation by using the 12V DC input (instead of the mains). It should be rock steady with the 12V. You will need either a 12V battery, or a good dc power supply (Only about 1 amps is enough). You will need the correct input socket, which is easily available .

@rootsdown4685

3 жыл бұрын

Nick Adams hi Nick. Thank you for the reply. It is better described as a pitch wobble.. it is continuous.

@nickadams5411

3 жыл бұрын

@@rootsdown4685 HI. A difficult one. Assuming the platter can spin with no resistance (pivot needs cleaning /oiling). Then the control system is a fixed electronic circuit with no adjustment. It is possible that the connections become corroded, that connect between the various platter motor connections. I would try and pull/push them and use some contact cleaner on them. Besides that it will need some detailed voltage measurements to try and track down the fault.

One reason to remove the puck is to enable playback of 180g records!

@nickadams5411

5 жыл бұрын

Hi, Thanks for that good info.

Hello Nick, Sinds 1981 I'm the owner of this SL-10. It needs servicing and repair. The start-button is not functioning anymore. Do you still repair audio? How can I contact you (business-adress?

@nickadams5411

4 жыл бұрын

Hi. I am in the UK. Contact me on nick@demonproducts.co.uk

@jmo002

4 жыл бұрын

@@nickadams5411 I will. Today I'll sent you a mail. Enjoy your Sun(ny)day!

You can have those cartridges rebuilt and it's well worth it.

@nickadams5411

8 жыл бұрын

+Ashley Cox Hi The only place I could find wanted many hundreds to repair the cartridge. Do you know of somewhere ? Thank You Nick

@ashleycox432

8 жыл бұрын

+Nick Adams Not the doesn't cost hundreds unfortunately, it's a very delicate process and very few people can do it. That said even damaged the carts can fetch a fair bit on the used market.

WOAAA! I got real fun out of watching this.The tastied ever SL_10 I have ever seen and the mc in the scrap bin, where is your scrap bin please? The vid is lavish too but the funnies start when you're testing the belt. Yes of course it should be tight as it has to transmit a fair degree of force to the arm. I hope by now you will realise that removing the viscous lubricant from the assembly was a big mistake and you have unwittingly changed one of the control systems state variables in the process. I would strongly recommend reading a book such as Control System Design (Cheng) to gain more knowledge about the system , I absolutely would.

@factorylad5071

5 жыл бұрын

I hope that you will allow me to make some further observations. I would need to look at the MC cartridge exactly where it has sheared, incase there is a possibility that a donor cantilever could be inserted and held in place with loctite for instance. But returning to the video it is excellent in every way except you seem to have an obsession for cleaning things which seems to be, in this instance, fighting against your normal approach , whereby you explain things very clearly and methodically. There can be only two reasons I can imagine that would require the removal of the upper cover. Firstly, the replacement of the tracking arm drive belt, it's un-stretched diameter is between 25 to 30mm (the most likely cause or secondly, the failure of the tungsten cabinet lamp, which is a 12V standard replacement, other than these parts, I would not touch anything. My technique as regards the thick grease would be to go no further than disturbing and replenishing with the original, your service manual must be pretty poor if it doesn't tell you what that is . Or the circuit diagram, do you have that part yet? My fear is that by changing the type of lubricant used on the slides may also change the coefficient of friction in the drive mechanism which may affect the stability of the system . For instance, it would not be desirable for the arm to exhibit overshoot with your expensive cartridge I don't think.

@gotthefeelin

4 жыл бұрын

Hilarious! I do wonder about some people.

@jimb032

4 жыл бұрын

@Orange OwL @bluesbirdBrain is About the biggest idiot Ive seen. All of these get sticky grease and screw up the movement. He's obviously never worked on anything...just tried to read and misinterpreted everything. And 25-30 mm super accurate belt measurement? What a precision!!! 20% tolerance!! LMAO. Thanks for calling the ID10T out...I couldn't have been so nice.

The only thing wrong with mine is it's stuck! I got it for 3 bucks at a thrift store.