Thanks @OverKill. Like many others I ended up here because of a sticky case. I was trying to inquire on how easy it would be to just tear this thing down to the shell and coat it with something better than the garbage they did at the factory. Your step-by-step was really helpful in my journey.

@BrendanCWilson

4 ай бұрын

Do you have any tips on the sticky case as I've opened the unit, but noticed there are still a few parts that can't be removed so the case can be cleaned properly and reassembled.

Great video. Replacing the mini usb port on my h6 and this really helped me get acquainted.

Thanks a lot! Now I know what ADC is installed inside the unit without disassembling it myself. :) By the way, it is really excellent device. Very versatile and easy to use.

Thank you. I don't understand English, but I understand it. The hydrolyzed product can be safely repaired.

I love you!!! 1M Thanks!!! "4 screws under the rubber feet". You saved my H5. It was impossible to dismantle the unit befor that tip. I love my H5 but it has become shity and sticky (this plastic sucks). Thanks for your ulta-useful mega-professional video. My very best wishes!

@deepakhemadri

2 жыл бұрын

I faced the same problem. Tried talcum powder on it, but, it didn't last long. However, I have since taken a piece of cloth and rubbed surgical spirit on it to wipe away the rubber. The unit is now shiny grey instead of the black. But, it is no longer sticky!

Could you discuss shielding and grounding in a video? I see a lot of copper shield tape, my concern with these is accidentally shorting circuit board elements.

Thanx for thus video. I got a problem with the device shutting of as soon as I try to start it. Read up on it and some wrote that it has problems with the phantom power. When I saw your video I saw that it is really easy to disconnect the bottom mic inputs so I did that. Started the device with no problem. Turned of phantom power. Reatached the cable and now its working flawlessly. You saved me a lot of money. Thank You.

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

That's great! It's funny how easily some things can be repaired once you feel confident opening them up.

@tiagofuentes4091

3 жыл бұрын

@@overkillprojects8091 Definately! Thanx again!

Do you happen to know either what the PinOut is for the 10 pin connector between the recorder and the Microphone Capsule?

Is it possible to replace the Tripod wire thread?

Thanks for the wonderful video... i have a H5 but when i turn on the phantom power (without attaching the condenser mic), there are a lot of static and cracking noises when i turn up the gain... any idea what can be the cause of it ? i am comtemplating spraying some contact cleaner on the board hoping the noise will just go away....

Man, have you made a similar video for the H4N Pro?

Hi. Do you know how to disassemble XYH-5 capsule? I guess there is some detached wires. I'm rotating capsule by holding cord and hearing sound of wire touching something.

Awesome video! Thanks! I have a question and please excuse if you already explained this (I watched the whole video, I promise ;) ) I want to use the H5 as a microphone in conjunction with the 1010music Bluebox. I don't quite understand where the Analog/Digital conversion takes place. Is it before or after the Line out/headphone out? I am hoping it is after the line out so I cans save one round of conversion before the Bluebox. I need it for travelling and recording my Sitar on the road and I want to use the Bluebox for recording and mixing rather than the internal recorder of the H5. Thanks for any help you can offer!

If the H5 record button doesn't work, but the H5 works with a remote control, what could be the resolve to the hardware record button functioning as it should?

Hello, thank you very much for the video. That was helpful and interessting. Is it possible to just remove the case without dissasembling the complete electronics? I would like to remove the plastic case in order to apply Armor All to clean up the sticky gluey case.

Thanks for the teardown! My H5 has a different mounting thread - it has no metal bottom, just some thin piece of plastic. That means, that if I'm not careful, I could drive a mounting screw straight into the PCB. So, there's that inconsistency with Zoom's build quality. There's a video where someone's already gone throught that headache - search for "SOLVED Zoom H5 recorder faulty XLR inputs".

@overkillprojects8091

4 жыл бұрын

Very interesting! I wonder when they made that change. I've had my H5 for a few years now.

0:49 It can indeed record in 24 bit 96 kHz. You just have to be in Stereo File Record Mode. Multi file mode limits you to 24 bit 48kHz.

Wonderful explanation! Helps me a lot on getting familiarized with the location of the screws to remove the plastic housing. The rubberized coating of the H5 tends to get gummy and eventually fail and it was a pain to remove it around the gain controls at the front.

4:15 Stereo Audio Codec TLV320AIC3101 Device Marking AC3101I

Thank you for the inside look. Is there an easy way to repair the volume control button on the side? The (-) side works which lowers the volume but the (+) side to increase volume does not work. Any suggestions on how to repair?

@overkillprojects8091

4 жыл бұрын

If you hear a click but the volume doesn't change, it's likely that the switch underneath has either broken or the solder joint has come loose from the circuit board. Unfortunately those switches are on the deeper of the two boards in the unit as you can see around 5:48 in the video (S301/2). If you generally follow the teardown, it shouldn't be too difficult to get to them and they aren't impossible to hand solder for someone with a little experience - you just use a larger solder tip and apply it to the base while feeding a little solder into the joint, both for removal and for reinstallation. However if you don't deal with surface mount electronics regularly I imagine it would seem intimidating. Just take your time!

@gaffneyenterprisesllc2633

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much! I hear a click on the (-) and it works but nothing when I push the (+) side. It's soft and cushy.

Thanks for the teardown. I was hoping there was a simple weak point that I could upgrade for improved sound. (I can do some basic soldering, like remove those capacitors and upgrade them to something higher quality). The H5 and especially the XYH-5 modules are hit and miss regarding quality control (many reviews online mention this). My unit just produces too much noise, so I will probably get another microphone (either a module or XLR microphone). Obviously, if the H5 is to blame, I will have to get something to replace that too.

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

Interesting. I kind of wish I had a noisy one to troubleshoot - maybe there's an easy fix. I might start looking on eBay for a noisy sample - it would make a good video

@mistaspeedy

3 жыл бұрын

@@overkillprojects8091 I will keep in touch if I get a replacement, I might just send it over :)

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

@@mistaspeedy I won't say no to that ;-)

@baroque_engineer

2 жыл бұрын

What is "too much noise"? Are you getting too much noise from the built-in mic or from the line inputs?

@mistaspeedy

2 жыл бұрын

@@baroque_engineer I was getting too much noise from the built in microphone - XYH5. I have since bought a used XYH6 module and it is better, but still not perfect. My main microphone now is an Audio Technica AT2035 which I am happy with. The XY modules are great for louder sound sources, but not for something quiet

My H5 recently died and won't stay on anymore :( I have to hold the power button down to power it, but it won't respond to any button inputs while i'm holding it and when i release the power, it shuts off ... Opening it up didn't really reveal anything and I was too scared to go any deeper so I guess it's a brick now. But I still enjoyed the video regardless. Thank you!

thank you so much that was so informative can you send me the pin out of the X/Y module please ? i can see there are six pins i just need to know the pin out i lost my recorder but i still have the X/Y module and i need to modify it with and external power and stereo output to a 3.5mm jack i would appreciate your help thank you again

Excellent Video! Maybe you can give an advice for the problem I have with my H5: The Mini USB connector went off due to frequent usage leaving some destruction on the PCB. I managed to reconnect it, but now the data exchange doesn't work any more: I can power the H5 via USB, but it doesn't offer me to act as card reader or USB audio interface, which I used a lot before. I might have made a mistake reconnecting the USB - I thought pin 4 and 5 had been connected, so I shorted them. Also when the USB connector went off, it destroyed a part on the PCB. According to the printed labels, it is part Q115 which can be seen at minute 9:32 of your video. Do you know what kind of part that is - a transistor? But what type? I would be most grateful for a helpful hint...

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

Well first, connecting pins 4 and 5 could cause the problem by itself. Pin 4 being grounded would tell your computer that it should be the host. Your computer would disagree and as a result you wouldn't get any communication. Just fixing that might do it. Maybe all you need it some solder wick. The transistor is tougher. It looks, but I'm certainly not certain, like it could be a P-channel mosfet to switch between Vbatt and Vbus. However, it doesn't match the typical pin configuration for those transistors in that package so I am probably wrong. Maybe there is some other version of the same that uses an N-channel fet, but I don't know it off hand. If i get a chance to dig into it again i can probe to see what it's actually doing, but no promises that I'll get it done soon. Why do you think it's bad in your unit? It is handling the power, so the fact that you can power via USB leads me to think it is functioning.

@matzetuebi872

3 жыл бұрын

@@overkillprojects8091 Thanks for your answer! So I disconnected pins 4 and 5, but unfortunately the problem persists. The damaged part Q115 is even better visible in minute 10:15, where it can be seen that it has "07" written on it. I have examined my PCB again under magnification and think that Q102 has the same marking, if that can help to figure out what part it is. I know that Q115 is dead because it is mechanically destroyed - the housing is gone, and the remainder is litterally broken into three parts. So I am absolutely certain that it doesn't do anything any more...

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

Hmm interesting. After poking around a bit, I'm relatively certain that it's a P channel MOSFET in an SOT-323-3 package, although there's no telling which exactly - that package code isn't giving me much to go on. Though I doubt it will matter too much - at least the specs shouldn't be so far off in that package size that it would be the difference between your device working or not. So - WARNING ⚠️!! Proceed at your own risk, you might kill your device !! - you might want to give it a go with a similar part and see how it goes. Maybe something like an NX3008 or equivalent? Let me know if it works out, I'm curious at this point.

@matzetuebi872

3 жыл бұрын

@@overkillprojects8091 Hooray, it's working again!! I managed to get a similar transistor (a nice colleague in the electronics department of my company had some remaining parts of a recent project in his drawer), soldered it in place of the broken one (not so easy as it has a slightly bigger housing), and now my H5 works as USB audio interface again! I am very happy!! Thank you so much for the decisive hints!

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

@@matzetuebi872 That's great! Congratulations!

how to fix xyh-5 mic

@overkillprojects8091

3 жыл бұрын

What about it broke?

@sozdatelj

2 жыл бұрын

@@overkillprojects8091 could you please help me with Zoom XYH-6 microphone module? I got it apart from any Zoom recorder, so, I'd like to solder some sort of "Zoom connector to 3,5mm + power connectors". Can't find any information on the net...

horrible soldering job on the mic board and did not clean after soldering