I've been a carpenter for 40 years. I use a job site table saw out in the field. I don't even own a big heavy shop saw. Here's a few things that I do for safe operation of a table saw. I always set the blade height to at least the gullet of the blade, but not too high, for saw dust clearing, and it also helps to keep the work piece down on the table and not float above the table. The blade also cuts better that way. I always check the rip guide with a tape measure at the front of the blade and also the back of the blade... I don't care how good the rip guide is. I always knock the back of the rip guide open a tad to make clearance for the board to pass through ( thats the #1 cause of kick back, no clearance on the back side of the blade.) I only use a push stick if I'm ripping something narrower than about 2 1/2 to 3 inches. When I push a board thru, I always wrap a a few fingers over the top of the rip guide, just in case something wants to pull my hand into the blade, my hand won't go there because I have most of my hand wrapped over the top and around the other side of the rip guide. The number one cause of accidents is just simply not respecting the possible dangers and not paying attention.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

Good stuff here ! Thanks for this one :)

@dans4900

5 ай бұрын

On the job site with everyone using it. I like when the fence is open on the end. Good tip. Run the fence a little out of parallel

@marcellemay7721

5 ай бұрын

@dans4900 I posted this over a year ago. I've since obtained a nice heavy, 3hp cast iron saw for my shop with an awesome solid rip guide. I actually got it for free from a good friend. That one is perfectly parallel so that I can use it on either side of the blade. You can't knock that rip guide over like on a cheap job site saw.

@rodneywheeler2278

4 ай бұрын

And, as I just mentioned to this videos poster, no mention of a saw guard. Why he mentions safety without the mention of an upper saw guard is ludicrous. You too.

@marcellemay7721

4 ай бұрын

@rodneywheeler2278 A blade guard just gets in the way. If you're too stupid to keep your hand out of the path of the saw blade... maybe you shouldn't be using a table saw.

I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great kzread.infoUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.

@SirTools

9 ай бұрын

🤠

Interesting! Thanks for the info. I used to do it the old school way. Decades ago I tired of having sawdust thrown at me so I dropped the blade to 1/8" above the wood surface along with a proper push stick/push block. I am a professional woodworker of over 40 years. No kickbacks ever. The key is a sharp blade. I've cut through the nastiest of wood with a sharp blade without issue. I have found that it's the cheap blades that are the most expensive in the long run.

@wulf67

Жыл бұрын

1. Sawdust is the least dangerous thing a table saw will ever throw at you. 2. “Professional” means that you get paid to do it, not that you’re an expert in the best practices for safety. Johnny Knoxville and all the transvestite prostitutes on Hollywood Boulevard are also professionals. 3. None of the people in the world’s cemeteries had ever made a fatal mistake before. There’s a first time (and a last time) for everything.

@timh7156

Ай бұрын

Totally agree. Keeping a sharp blade on the saw solves so many problems whether it’s a table, or a circular saw. A dull blade will cause the wood to lift up and kick back plus it makes an ugly cut. It also makes the machine work harder and wear out faster.

I am a retired pro who still works wood as a hobby. My dad was a professional cabinet maker/joiner all his adult life. He taught me to adjust the blade to where the gullets clear the wood, enabling good blade tracking, further, it promotes clearing excess cuttings from the blade while also it keeps the blade cooler. This has served me well. The only hospital visits I've had from woodworking are a cut experienced while sharpening a chisel, and a slightly shortened finger tip that occurred while jointing a board long past fatigue from a LONG day had set in. Don't work with power tools when brain fogged!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for this post. It is all about doing it right.

I would encourage any novice or experienced woodworkers to follow the advice offered up by this gentleman. I’m an old-time woodworker who incidentally only has 7 fingers remaining -Yes, I too was bitten by a table saw, amputated 3 digits from my left hand instantly. It’s too late for me but this gentleman is trying to help prevent further injuries to people and I respect & appreciate his efforts -Listen to his words. Nice job on the video by the way. Cheers from Toronto.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the hard won advice, feller. I am sure that at least one person will be saved from a maiming just for reading this.

@chris431

2 жыл бұрын

I got nicked once in my 42 years woodworking and it was ripping PVC which is slippery stuff, had the blade 1/8 above and walked away with a little more than a scratch. Did have kickback one time when I was just beginning ripping parquet flooring, took a piece right to the chest. Accidents do happen because the saw doesn’t care and one moment of disrespect and it’s not good. No music playing, wife knows not to distract me. I know guys who have gotten bitten by joiners,table saws, radial saws. Good video

@DrManhattan84

2 жыл бұрын

I disagree, I do detailed cuts with the table saw and before I could afford a Sawstop I was using a contractors table saw on the floor (tile covered in sawdust) I slipped a little and my thumb got bit by the saw. Had I not set the depth so the saw was just peeking out of the top of the wood, I wouldn't be able to play video games with my son or piano anymore.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrManhattan84, you found the best compromise for the stock you were cutting, the task at hand, and your equipment! Very glad that you escaped a maiming. Enjoy every minute that you can, with your son!

@Ritalie

2 жыл бұрын

@@DrManhattan84 Precisely. I made a grave error 4 months ago, because I was tired. It wasn't an accident, it was a case of me being half asleep after working 10 hours in construction. I set the blade low, but did everything else wrong. I had a severe kickback, and if the blade had been just 1/2" higher, I would have lost 4 fingers. But I set the blade about 1/4" above the wood, and I only cut about 1/4" into 4 of my fingers. The blade hit the bone, and took chips out of the bone in 2 fingers. But my fingers are fine, and I didn't' lose any fingers. But the thought that I came SO close to losing 4 fingers, is traumatizing and I haven't been able to use my saw again until I completely rebuild it with a riving knife or splitter.

Terrific video! You did a great job of presenting two schools of thought in a fair and levelheaded way. Cheers.

Good info, thanks. I been woodworking since around 1960 and I am a retired safety expert. I really get ticked at these young youtube kids with missing fingers trying be a safety expert. Woodworking as with any job or hobby using power tools poses risks. A smart person will assess the risks, hopefully take some sort of action to minimize them and make the cut. As you correctly pointed out: with the blade low (as most youtubers say is the best and safest, that in itself introduces a SECOND hazard of a higher chance of kickback). And along with that higher risk of kickback comes a higher chance that your hand will end up coming into contact with the blade during the kick back event...so much for being the safest way. I just watched that happen yesterday on a video where the blade was really low, it kicked back a piece of wood that pushed/pulled his hand across the blade causing serious injury. I, like you am old school and keep my blade a little higher, use feather boards, push sticks or whatever is appropriate to keep me as safe as possible and enjoy the hobby. I just finished a 36X36 oak Carrom Board one side/Checker board other side. Loving retirement and woodworking. Be safe.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

Right on !

@peterb2400

2 ай бұрын

Young KZread kids with missing fingers trying to be safety experts? Where? Sounds pretty made up.

I think it would have been good especially for beginners to explain the importance of aligning the blade straight with the table, and likewise the fence aligned with the table. Another VERY important point to mention is keeping the fence out of way when crosscutting using the miter gauge. I’ve used a table saw for nearly 60 years, and a couple of years ago, I let my common sense lapse for a second, and a short piece got trapped and flew out like a bullet. It struck me on the right side of my chest, and man did it ever hurt! I had abrasions, a bruise, and was sore for about 2 weeks. And finally, standing to the side a bit, out of the line of fire, is ultra important habit to develop! Good video, thanks for sharing, I’m sure lots of people will benefit from it!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Very good thoughts here

@lectro88

Жыл бұрын

I don't see this as a beginners topic. This is more for seasoned users that have been brow beat..."this is how you do things" Just my opinion. He's talking about dark side topics, not beginners safety... they can get that from stumpy or anybody else.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

@@lectro88 Exactly, and thanks for posting

@haroldneely9253

Жыл бұрын

Yep, been there

Been cutting wood for decades, but even today, after all the experience I’ve gained over the years, I cut scared. That freaking blade scares me. That is why I make every cut like a new chapter in my life and the ending, a happy one. My beloved father said to me long time ago “know where your fingers are at all times.” Thanks, Dad. Yes, I know where you are. God bless!

@lad60606

2 жыл бұрын

That is the right philosophy. **Cut scared** I do every time. For the last 15 years.

@alexkitner5356

2 жыл бұрын

Same here, I don't know that I feel like I'd use the word scared but definitely a massive level of respect just a notch less than fear to the dangers that are inherent to a table saw but also tempered with some confidence. That balance is good to keep from making a mistake out of timidness while also giving it the massive caution the dangers merit. In the thirty years I've used table saws I've never lost that respect for the dangers or allowed complacency to set in.

Back in 1969 my High School shop teacher demonstrated how dangerous table saws are, no guards, no riving knife, blade as high as it would go, we all stood behind him as he dropped a scrap of 2x4 on top of the blade and we watched as it flew 50 feet to the back wall and shatter, have never had a problem with power tools as I respect them.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

I'll bet he made his point

@donhepler9185

2 жыл бұрын

I totally agree with you I'm 73 years old first time I used a table saw I was 12 years old I still have all my fingers if I can see the blade I have sense enough to keep my fingers out of it thanks appreciate it

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Super thanks Don for this one :)

@DominikusTV

2 жыл бұрын

Don't try this at home. Do it at school.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

@@DominikusTV, good one!

Just finished watching the video. I have always have the attitude that I keep the blade just high enough to let the edge clear below the gap behind the teeth. No matter whether it is carbide or all steel design. Just keeping it below yet above allows debris to flow away from the area. Nice hat, which tells me you and I have a background of working on planes. Mine was with C-123,”White Whale” and 121s with ADC back in the 60s. Look forward to watching more videos.

"saws not plugged in so quit typing"......Too funny.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Glad somebody got that line :)

@adrianscarlett

2 жыл бұрын

Don't worry, the guns not loaded...

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

@@adrianscarlett good thing

@InsideOfMyOwnMind

2 жыл бұрын

@@adrianscarlett we only have blank rounds on set. Oh, too soon?

@ADITADDICTS

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools That was gold! 🤣

this makes sense to me. Have to say though, In all of my years of using a table saw, the only times I've come close to hurting myself are when I'm trying to rush, or I'm distracted. I've got an old saw without a riving knife and there's no doubt it's a dangerous machine, but my rule is NEVER rush and avoid any possible distraction. No music, podcast, friends, pets, day dreams, ect, when the table saw is being used. Also, if you're trying an unusual cut, or a new material, make sure you know what you're doing and understand the potential hazards first. It's those unforeseen issues that catch you off guard.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

No rush and plan it out before cutting, you betcha

@garyolsen3409

2 жыл бұрын

You want to have total concentration, know where your fingers are and have good control at all times.

@billhill3526

2 жыл бұрын

Double check. Then when there is no distractions as you suggest, triple check.

@ronsullivan132

2 жыл бұрын

And just like the C-130 that had a big red line on the fuselage marking the rotation plane of the props, stay out of the rotational plane of the blade. I always stand off center so if the board does get launched back I will not be there.

@bobbyt9999

2 жыл бұрын

Yep, very sound advice. I'm saying this because of an incident that happened to me quite a few years ago. Although this happened on a jointer instead of the table, it can apply to anything in the shop that has a sharp, spinning and exposed edge to it. I was using my jointer and while doing so I sliced my fingernail off. The main reason this happened? Overconfidence. I'd used this machine so often it was like second nature to me. It means that there was almost no concentration on what I was doing. I was very lucky because my finger is still on my hand and still works normally - minus most of the fingernail. Since this happened I have become just a little bit afraid of these tools when using them and I was telling someone who has a lot more experience me. He said that this can be a good thing because it ensures that I am checking, double checking and then triple checking what I'm doing before I begin my cut. This bit of fear makes me aware of the sharp spinning blade.

Excellent share, C&T! The simplest and most logical reason I was ever given for rip cutting with the blade up high was, "...if you can clearly see it, then you will avoid it!" (let's call this Lesson 1). As for kick-back - yeah, just don't stand there! EVER! (Lesson 2). ...for all the working contractors out there (who can scarce afford time off due to severe injury)... Lesson 3: ALWAYS take off your so-called contractors' gloves before operating any shop tool, and... Lesson 4: If it's someone else's table saw on your jobsite, have THEM make the cuts - they know that machine way better than you do. ...and finally for all of us... Lesson 5: SLOW DOWN AND PAY ATTENTION! (I have learned all these lessons the HARDEST way possible, I regret to report.)

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Really like that last one #5 :)

As a professional Wood Machinist/Joiner taught by some very talented, old school guys. I was always told a high blade reduces the cut surface (amount of blade to wood contact) but gives a rougher cut because of the exit angle. A low blade height increase the cut surface, and therefore the force needed to push the timber through as well as the work done by the motor, but the exit angle will give a cleaner cut. I generally stay in the middle ground and adjust the height based on what I’m trying to achieve

@andrewhudson2860

Жыл бұрын

Professional wood machinist from the 1960s. Try using a finer blade, raising the blade and FFS use a riving knife and a blade guard. Seen too many fingers on the dusty floor. If you use the guard, you can raise the blade and you only have a small area on the front of the blade showing. It also helps to stop kick back, that’s what the riving knife is for. It stops the wood from gripping the blade. Push sticks are useful. Be safe woody.

Hello, just found this channel. I always cut with the blade high. Your common sense explanation is right on. You can prove this all with geometry, trig, vectors and the whole engineering thing. My first table saw was one I made when I was in my mid-teens and I've been using them ever since. That is some distance above fifty. Also, been around sawmills, large remanufacturing saws, etc. The best safety tool is to watch what you are doing and keep your hands away from the blade. Some wood, especially green, will have stresses in it and will kick back. You have to account for it. Using a hollow ground blade helps. A sharp blade is essential. Some years back, while taking some survey classes at a Community College, I had to rip some rough old lumber into survey stakes in the wood shop. The wood instructor launched into me for having the blade above the board. The stakes didn't get cut. It was too dangerous to cut that stuff in that way.

@stuckinmygarage6220

Жыл бұрын

Interesting. Your comment and this video convinced me to go experiment with all kinds of stuff. I can get green stuff, too. I forgot about that. Thank you

Thanks for the video & your perspective. More than 40 yrs of carpentry, wood working & cabinet making. I can't even remember for certain from whom or where I learned my preferred blade height. I suspect it was as a young apprentice. I was taught to set the blade height high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety. This means I always raise the blade at apex or top of the blade which is the highest point above the wood/work piece so that the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is just above the piece being cut. About 1/16" - 1/8". This allows for clean, non burning cuts, allows the blade to fully eject the debris, chips, sawdust (that's what the gullets are for). This in turn helps keep the blade from over heating & running cool. It also places the front teeth in a downward trajectory at the leading edge/front to avoid kickback but the blade isn't so high that it will remove a whole finger. Best of both worlds. Relatively low blade exposure. High enough to cut straight, cleanly & with minimal heat build up by ejecting cut debris while minimizing kickback. I also always apply this method to my circular/skill saws. The blade is set just deep enough so that the bottom of the gullet is just below the work piece. Cheers from the west coast of Canada.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

A great way to describe that particular trade-off, "high enough for efficiency but low enough for safety". Pithy.

I just watched your video on using a table saw. It was the first “real” wood working tool I got. I experienced kickback early on and have not used it since because of this. My Dad gave me a set of push blocks, but still I haven’t pulled the saw back out. Thank you for not only sharing the different aspects of safety, but also the clear and simple way you explained the how and why. I’m glad I found your videos and have subscribed. Looking forward to watching more of the good info you share!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Could be best not to use that saw if your nervous around it.

@ReelSpider

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools Any tool is most dangerous when you are afraid of it... Start small, and have someone come and work with you with it until you are comfortable. It's always a good idea to have a shop buddy around when you are learning to use a new tool, someone to dial 911...

I see you refurbished that old craftsman table saw. I bought one a few years back that didn't have a fence. I ended up putting a accusquare fence on it. Best investment I've made. Good to see someone still using the older saws.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

The sound of that old saw is amazing. Smooth, quiet and powerful.

I don't offer this as criticism, but rather to inform. You make a good video with valuable information for all woodworkers. We "tune" in to learn and the music in the background only interferes with the communication. Sorry to be negative.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

it happens

Although you call it a kerfing knife, it's commonly referred to as a riving knife and another type is called a splitter. The riving knife moves up and down with the blade because its attached to the trunnion while a splitter is fixed to the top. Riving knife is considered the better design since it's closer at the back of blade to support cut piece immediately after it has passed the blade. Most riving knifes can also be adjusted flush to top of blade so a dado cut can be made while still retaining the use of a riving knife but most splitters are in the way so it has to be removed or a special one has to be made for shallow cuts. As for the blade height, it should be raised high enough to allow proper venting and chip removal and most manufactures recommend raising blade up until carbide blade exits completely above material and some gullet gap is exposed. Keeping most of the blade teeth under a piece produces more friction and burns which increases chances of binding and kickback.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Not sure where the Kerf name came from.

@googlesbitch

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools Etymology. From Middle English kerf, kirf, kyrf, from Old English cyrf (“an act of cutting, a cutting off; a cutting instrument”), from Proto-Germanic *kurbiz (“a cut; notch”), from Proto-Indo-European *gerbʰ- (“to scratch”).

I was taught to put the bottom of the gullet of the tooth above the piece. So, it varies in height, but you essentially always have a minimum of a full tooth and a hair above the wood. I get good cuts, it isn't high enough to fully sever a finger in one go, and it reduces the force needed to push the piece through. For running very thin pieces through the table saw I just use a feather-board and a push-block. The feather-board applies lateral pressure, and also prevents any easy kickback, so all I have to do is apply forward and down pressure with the push block/stick from above.

@eugenedasher8380

Жыл бұрын

I was told to adjust blade so the bottom of the gullet of the tooth is even or just a hair above the surface of the wood you are cutting so it helps make the blade to run cooler and to more easily eject wood chips that gather in the gullets. Any suggestions?

I was always told (and followed) my shop teachers advice in the 80s that the blade should always be above the piece by one full tooth. Never had an issue.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

Thanks John for this one :)

@bigdaddysshop8180

Жыл бұрын

I run mine about a half tooth above the piece I'm cutting.. if your hand slips it's a cut not a finger missing.

Great stuff you have covered here. I would like to add that the use of your push blocks (the type with a heel hook) GREATLY reduces potential issues due to greater control of the work piece and likely reducing the benefit of having more blade exposed. The second item (using your test piece of 1x4 pine) is that it keeps the piece DOWN tight to the saw top, which reduces the possibility of the rear of the board lifting and being introduced to your face at high velocity! Not really obvious, but that test piece has a slight cup to it and was rocking on the saw top. When cutting shorter boards like that, I am always more concerned of kickbacks from the rear lifting, as opposed to kickbacks from blade binding, etc. Maybe paranoid, but I never rip anything shorter than about 30". My saw is a 40 year old Delta, with no guard or riving knife, but I have a whole fleet of push blocks. Those can easily be rebuilt. My fingers, not so much. Although useful in some situations, I usually don't like the old school 'chicken foot' push stick. Those can contribute to the board lifting, IMHO.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Delta made some good saws back in the day

@kennethlambert9030

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I usually work alone and in different places so its hard to properly setup a ideal work area. The lifting at the back is always sketchy or if a peace is laying there lol and sometimes holding a peace down with a as it spins I'll carefully shut the machine off and finish taking the peaces out when its stopped so not to wedge it while on and you're shifting positions

Years ago as a newbie, I set the blade "too high" according to modern recommendations. When I learned I was supposed to have the blade low and tried it, it made cutting a lot harder (presumably due to greater friction) and I got more burning. To me, it also seemed intuitively more dangerous from a kickback perspective, especially when cutting something like a large flexible panel that could easily lift up and get on top of the blade.

Hi, I live and work in the UK. Our saw fences and systems were very different to yours in the USA, Different remember I didn't say better. I started in the shop at age 15 (1965)as an apprentice. The fence would typically not extend beyond the gullet of the saw tooth nearest to the operator. This was to reduce the chance of kickback. The first full-length fence I saw was on an imported contractor saw. It was and likely still is a legal requirement for saws to be fitted with a riving knife and a top guard ( in a workplace as opposed to a home shop) and to have a push stick with a birdsmouth cut and be least 14" long. many saws were not fitted with a rise and fall so the saw blade could be 8" out of the table. And of course, if the timber being cut was not true the round side would go towards the fence. Thanks for your video and everyone else's comments.

@tifrap

2 жыл бұрын

I can vouch for what you say too. Watching this movie my concerns are more about the extent of the fence beyond the cutting edge - cuts release the stresses in the wood (especially with fast grown cheap pine) that will sometimes result in a bow developing, so why have the fence press the wood into the back face of the blade? As for those cumbersome push devices, I doubt the wisdom of a full grip handle to wrap your fingers around, Id rather be able to just whip my hand away, and not remove it from a hole first.

I've been using a table saw 40 plus years. I agree, it is one of the most dangerous tools. I use the push tools also. Please don't forget, to not put yourself in the line of fire. Standing to the side is as important as keeping your fingers away. I've seen a few injuries from kick back. We can get into other things like feather boards, but safety is where it starts. Thumbs up and fingers out of way.

@markmurto

7 ай бұрын

It may not happen as often, but a lock-on electric hand tool like a grinder is extremely hazardous if it catches you. People put a paddle sanding disk on a grinder, It can run out of control over a good portion of your body or head, and when it finally stops grabbing, its not because its off, but has burnt in where its not grabbing any more. Horrible injuries occur with spinning tools. Never use a lock-on trigger with grinders, drills, or rotating hand tools, chain saws, or routees. I know they save from fatigue, but in a split second its a mistake.

Thanks for the honest info! I was taught over 50 years ago that ALL power tools can hurt you and to respect them and know what the hell you're doing before using them. I always had "good" homeowner type table saws and in all these years had 1 kickback (into the gut) and no cuts. I raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet and always use a sharp blade. Equally important as keeping your hands away from the blade is to make sure the fence is properly aligned. I was taught Sharp is Safe. I've seen idiots get hurt using dull drill bits.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the honest comment :)

@otallono

Жыл бұрын

Well.. statistics don't lie. Table saw is more dangerous than all of those power tools. It's the least forgiving when you have a lapse in concentration..and no one is perfect in that department, you could little follow anyone on the road for a few miles and see a lapse in concentration in some way, so the more comfortable you become with something, the more likely you'll have those. I'd prefer to get comfortable with a track saw than a table saw... If something does happen, well probably nothing will. Life is more important than convenience.

I'm just now at age 59 getting back into woodworking. My fear of my Craftsman table saw blade is no less now than back in woodshop in the late 1970's. I'm really glad you took the time to talk about blade heights because its something I dont ever remember learning but I wonder about it every single time I use the saw. IMHO: part of being safe is being efficient. If a blade is cutting sharp and efficient then you dont use as much force to guide it through your cut. Less force means less chance of slippage. I only have high school woodshop for experience but I once witnessed a piece of wood kick back and stick into a concrete wall behind the perhaps donkeyish teen boy making the cut. Also: the Safety shield I remember using seemed to get in the way more than keep you safe. I've never tried a nerd or whatever but that seems like a good thing to try. I think most important is common sense and no distractions. As an amateur I really try to take my time. Sometimes I get in the Zone where everything just flows...but without experience that is rare. Thanks again...I am going to try raising my blade higher...like 200-250% of the thickness of the piece being cut. Up until I watched your video I was adjusting the blade so that the throat of the blade was just coming out of the top of the wood surface but like you said that makes more friction and raises the risk of kickback.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Now days it is all about safety and heck, that's not a bad thing. I just wanted the old school out in the open for all to see and understand we had reasons too :)

@chriskelvin248

Жыл бұрын

Agree 100%! What are a couple of woodworker sayings? Dull tools are more dangerous than sharp tools & let the tool do the work.

A HIGHLY informative and educational video that everyone should watch. Thank you for this great video Sir, and God Bless.

2 things I would add to this that I've found make a huge difference, a good jointed board edge against the fence and a floating blade guard . Not always possible but jointer, or jointer plane, first and one face then the saw , most lumber as bought is not really ready or safe for the table saw.I did not have a jointer or planer for a long time but what a difference they make

Nice to see David Carradine doing something constructive after retiring from films.

@LeslieDugger

2 жыл бұрын

Retiring? he killed himself. Technically, it is one way to retire.

@hakancarlsson2881

11 ай бұрын

​@@LeslieDuggerDon't be a jerk off and get hung up on semantics. 😉

@joliekarno

10 ай бұрын

I had to look several times. He really does look like the spitting image of David Carradine.

@heknows5418

10 ай бұрын

@@LeslieDuggerisn’t Carridine the one that choked the wrong chicken

I spent 30+ years working in cabinetry and display work. I always set my blade at the notch at the bottom of the tooth, about a 1/4 to 3/8" above the wood. I also used the splitter/anti kick behind the blade, this insures that if there is any binding after the cut it will not close up and of course no kick back. The biggest detriment to table saw safety is repetition, working one operation all day one can become lackadaisical and start to drift mentally. Time to take a break.

@billhill3526

2 жыл бұрын

I agree, but not everyone is using a fancy cabinetry table saw in a woodworking shop.

@zcobryant

2 жыл бұрын

I was told this was the proper blade height because it allows sawdust to empty out of the troughs properly.

@EricLS

Жыл бұрын

Absolutely. I am trying to pull metal splinter out of my knuckles right now from getting lazy with my grinder. Luckily I haven’t had any close ones with the table saw yet

When I started building cabinets about 16 years ago my boss taught me to put the blade up almost twice the thickness of the material. I'll be 35 tomorrow and still consider myself young. But after watching the video, reading these comments, and giving my comment, I'm beginning to think I'm old school myself.😄

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

yeap...your old school...in my club :)

@illestofdemall13

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools Sometimes old school is more a way of thinking, rather than just how many times you've circled the Sun while living on this planet. I am 36 and have picked up some "old school" knowledge from my dad, and other elders who have been kind enough to share their knowledge (like yourself). Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Personal responsibility is another old school think I believe in. One needs to learn how to use the tool and respect it. I can't blame my accident on a youtube video if I were to make such an unfortunate mistake.

@TheHungrySlug

2 жыл бұрын

I was about to say the same thing. From blade height as double the wood thickness, for the best cut. Also that I, myself, am 35, till April that is. I learnt a lot from just watching my Pop in his shed doing wood work and metal work. It's a cousin of mine that took off the top of a finger on a band saw when he worked in a picture framing business. But I got my arm caught in the exposed gears of a metal lathe, while reaching to turn its power off. Oops

@arucarddimples1944

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheHungrySlug saws are bad enough but THAT worries me more. Rollers, printing presses, lathes, chains, and anything with gears exposed under power is extremely dangerous. All it has to do is grab a part of clothing, or PPE, and then it can pull you in and have it's way with you. It can happen so fast even trying to hit an e-stop might not prevent an accident. Hopefully it will safe your life but you might lose an arm in the meantime.

@iancasey1486

Жыл бұрын

As a less-than-novice I see two forces at work. One is personal safely and the other is cut quality. I believe that we should NEVER sacrifice personal safely to obtain quality cuts nor to improve efficiency. Lumber is sold, cut, and get thrown away. However, from a tiny cut to a complete loss off some part of the body is permanent and not retrievable! Some old-school is good. However, don't forget the advances made to minimize the possibility of these injuries. I've learned that it's important to: 1. Keep pieces firmly pressed down on the table and against the fence! 2. Feed through material at a constant rate towards and past the saw blade. 3. Keep fingers well away as possible from the throat plate and blade. The only exception is when machine is unplugged for changing blades, throatplate, and cleaning. 4. Make use of an outfeed table or props. 5. Make us of some infeed prop so you could focus on a the pressure downwards to the table and sidewards to the fence! 6. Don't stand in the way of the smallest piece of material after the cut. It's the smallest pieces that tend to be more volatile. 7. Always endure that fence is not forcing material towards the blade while cutting! 8. Use all the safety 'gadgets' that came with your table saw; or those that are available after purchase. Think of them as your bodyguards. They are there to minimize and neutralize threats. 9. Your personal protection is your sole responsability! 10. Overconfidence, distraction, tiredness, rush, impatience are some of the most dangerous traits that undermine your personal safety! Remember, the finest piece of woodworking that you can ever make is your safety!

Excellent information. My neighbor gave me a very old table saw yesterday, with zero safety features. I haven't used a table saw in over 50 years, and then only in shop class. And more than 25 years ago I lost my left arm in an electrical accident. I've been getting into woodworking now and am using a circular saw, power planer, miter saw and router. It's fun and I take a lot of precautions. After watching this video I'm wondering if I can ever safely use a table saw, let alone the antique my neighbor gave me.

@andresherrera4158

2 жыл бұрын

I don't know about the power planer, but of all the other power tools you use, I think the table saw can be the safest in your situation because it's set in one place, held the table, guided by wall etc. I would figure out how stand away from the line of cutting towards the side of the scrap wood which is the least likely to fly towards you at the end of the cut. Do a bunch of trial cuts on scrap wood just to get a feel for it. If you don't feel safe and you can more or less tell why that is, follow your intuition. But if you can't really tell why you're afraid, it may be just because you feel at a disadvantage physically, but not necesserilly because something is actually wrong. Good luck and I admire your drive to create.

I've been woodworking for 40 years and have had very few incidents with kickback. The other day I was using my homemade tapering jig to taper some legs. I had it all set up and then I realized I didn't have my zero clearance insert installed. Big mistake. The wedge of the taper came off and went inside the insert and bam. It sounded like a m80 going off. It broke one of my garage door windows and I felt the breeze of something barely missing my head even though I was standing to the side of the saw. I learned my lesson and I was lucky. I had to say a little prayer after that.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Geeez...Doug, don't leave us just yet. WoW..

@EricLS

Жыл бұрын

For sure. The little bits falling into the standard plate have been 99% of the sketchy things to happen with my saw. Really need to get a zero clearance

A lower blade reduces the depth your saw can cut into a stray finger, but it also tripled or quadrupled the amount of wood in contact with the cutting teeth of the blade. A high saw cuts a much straighter line (almost verticle) reducing the amount of wood being grabbed by the teeth at any point in time. It's a matter of preference and your own comfort level in how much you pay attention and how in control you are when cutting. Choose your own adventure.... but do it wisely.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Well put :)

@billhill3526

2 жыл бұрын

You are not a rookie. I can tell.

@Steve25g

2 жыл бұрын

correct, when I was young, a friend of mine, his parents had a carpintary, they had a table saw, running a huge disc, and they ran it high as well. Due to it's 15KW, it was turning so fast, it didn't even grip wood, and even better, it had a movable slide, where you could put on the wood, and just launch it through the sawblade, it didn't even stop or move. I still put the saw high up.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

@@Steve25g Sounds like a big one :)

@Steve25g

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools yes it was. in the vicinity, you have a company producing carpintery industrial class.. The machine needed softstart at 3x400volts

Love that 'old' saw. I've had my 10'' Craftsman since the mid seventies.

Good advice and as well as a riving knife and push stick I made myself an electro magnet feather board which goes on the other side of the work from the fence.. This clamps the work perfectly straight between the fence and the feather board, can be switched on or off to position anywhere on the table and there's no need to put any sideways pressure on the work to keep it up against the fence.. The commercial version is called Magswitch.

The two best things I have ever done for my saw setups are: Use a high fence, set one inch or more than the max blade height as a limit for my hand. The second thing is to have a proper long out feed table, which lets me push a piece out smoothly. I resent being on the short end of a lever, thus tricking me to force the wood down onto the table near the end of its cut. (The most dangerous part of the sawing I have seen is not having a dedicated out feed table. Those twig-trees and helpers cause more havoc holding a piece out there. YOU need to be in control of the cut!!!!) The Low Blade Safety ASSUMPTION maximizes the approach angle, and maximizes the tooth force tangential of the blades radius. This vectors forces which razes the work piece. In other words you can feel the board rise up when sett up like this, especially with slightly dull blade. Also, when set low, tooth time in contact with the wood is at maximum, creating heat, and if the material is dense like oak forget-about-it! 5000 RPM is 83 rotations per second. Multiply that by the number of teeth on the blade to find how many teeth per second. Saws with 1.5 to 3 HP always bog at the operators feeding rates.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

Well reasoned! I hope newr users take heed

@spurlindarby4587

2 жыл бұрын

Having out feed table is the way to go but it takes up alot of room trying to fight your wood is dangerous I think

@lyndonp6296

2 жыл бұрын

@@spurlindarby4587 Try a roller stand ....

@commoncents456

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Outfeed table is often overlooked

@stephenrose8188

2 жыл бұрын

Roller stand is good and at least you can move it to suit your space and timber length. Also like a lot of guys I often work alone in a room full of kit that can kill you so I wear a pair of 'Oregon' chainsaw gloves, designed to stop a chain saw and keep your fingers attached to your hands. Brilliant product and I use them on anything like saws, planers hand held or bench type it doesn't matter. Use on the band saw too. My gloves cost about £29 here in the UK, worth double. Riving knife and top guards if set up right are good too, never had cause not to use them.

I've had a SawStop for four years, and even though I'm old, I'm still a beginner. Just recently I read the recommendation to set the blade height such that the gullet clears the board being cut. The explanation was that doing so allows the blade to clear the sawdust better. Well, except for the initial cut approximately the width of the upper portion of the blade, there's no sawdust doesn't get trapped in the gullet until the blade is rotating from 12 o'clock and into the wood. Once the gullet clears the bottom of the board, the sawdust will hopefully be sucked into the dust collection. Until the blade rotates back to the 12 o'clock position, I don't see where there is any sawdust in the gullet. I'm willing to stand corrected. Second, as far as the angle of cut is concerned with a higher blade creating a steeper angle of cut, are the angles of the teeth today the same as they were 50 years ago? It seems that by the teeth leaning forward, they can achieve a greater angle of cut with a lower blade height. I have no clue what I'm talking about on this one. As far as push sticks are concerned, the only "kickback" I've had so far was when I carelessly knocked my push stick/block over into the blade. Luckily it hit me in the arm and not in the face or chest. It could have been bad. Live and learn. Now I never leave anything where it can be knocked over into the blade.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Lucky and glad to hear it.

@Jevandtieriel

2 жыл бұрын

The lower blade will cut at a different angle, particularly the rear of the blade. A high blade the teeth are nearly 90 degrees to the table, increasing the risk of the board being cut lifting. A lower blade will also shorten the length of the blade exposed also lessening the risk of kickback. After having said this I tend to use the blade where it was set on the last use. If I notice, particularly thin wood or ply, that it’s jumping or tending to lift, I will lower the blade.

@wardmontgomery9259

2 жыл бұрын

Since the 70’s as a professional carpenter I have most always set the blade 1/8 - 1/4” higher than the materials that I am cutting with my table saw. ALSO I wont turn the saw on without wearing safety glasses ALWAYS !

@markcomptube

2 жыл бұрын

@@wardmontgomery9259 I agree, Safety glasses cannot be emphasised enough, apart from the sawdust, a splinter with force behind it can do a lot of damage!

@Perly53

2 жыл бұрын

@@markcomptube An excellent home builder in Kansas City, MO lost use of an eye as a young apprentice from a nail still in a board he was cutting. Safety glasses, for sure. Thank you.

I was taught 50% higher than the wood. I vary that depending on thickness and other factors. The biggest thing is awareness of where my fingers are and where the blade is, as well as where the material is. No loose clothes, don't work too fast, make sure someone is nearby, and absolutely no cutting if tired.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Another twist on an old topic here. Cool stuff

@commoncents456

2 жыл бұрын

and dont spill your beer 😛😛

@brucemiller1696

2 жыл бұрын

Sharp blades are safer than dull ones.

@mjolnirswrath23

Жыл бұрын

listening to the Wood cut is the Key to a Clean cut. And Feeling the resistance as well as Observation of Density of the Wood, denser the wood reduction of speed. " A variable speed Electrical switch in line of power cord will do wonders for cutting on a table saw.

With the plastic dust collecting blade shrouds that most new saws do come with these days, it makes cutting with the blade higher even safer on top of redirecting those forces down to the table. Great video!

I started using table saws before blade guards and kickback prevention. I was shown that you can get kickback if your fence is not repeatably accurate, meaning that if the rear of the blades is closer to the fence than you get a pinching effect across the blade when pushing it through and more surface contact, so I was taught to measure both the front and rear of the blade and make them even or actually slightly further from the fence at the rear to prevent kickback.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

Good point and I think it is the main cause.

I can't say I've been at it for a plethora of years, I began poking around with this hobby 5 our 6 years ago, but I certainly make my cuts this way. I've tried both methods. The results are indeed better, and I'm confident there is less binding and kickback when the blade has more space to operate freely (i.e. it has some area to spin freely both above and below the work piece).

@lutzshawn

2 жыл бұрын

How powerful is your table saw? The most important thing raising the blade accomplishes is reducing the hp required to make the cut.(less teeth engaged) you may find the same benefits you get from a higher blade by using a slower feed, higher hp saw or even an fresher sharper blade?

@kd0407

2 жыл бұрын

@@lutzshawn You are correct, but my approach serves all the same. I rarely have the most high powered equipment; I use what I have and what is available. Regardless of what saw I use it is always a goal to reduce as much resistance and wear as possible from the machine while I use it. This approach has always served me to be both "safer" and yield better results. To your point, I certainly could benefit from a newer, sharper blade, but who among us could not?

Interesting... The way I set mine is to ensure the carbide tip in the highest point sticking above the board. It is because the lumber I worked with not always flat and sometimes bowl and twisted by 1/8 or more. It has to cut thru all of that. Most of the time, I just leave it 1/2"-ish above the board. However, I do use long pushing stick or block where my hand is at least 6" to 8" away from the blade.

I've wondered the same exact thing, that you want the angle of the blade on the work pushing a little more downward. Also I've cut full sheets of thinner plywood (once it was 1/16" hdpe) before, and if the sheet flexes upward off the table in the middle a little, you still want the blade to come thru.

I live in the UK. and recently found a well known router manufacturer market a spray for wood cutting tools . This spray will stop resins and glues from plywood and OSB board sticking to your blades and works as a lubricant on saws. I tried it and got a much a more efficient and smoother cut on my saw table. Very impressed.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

The clean blade sure does change the game :)

Years ago, at the beginning of that years woodshop class one of the first things my Woodshop teacher in junior high did was hold up the table saw's fence and told us students that, that fence was the most dangerous piece of the table saw, and that if it was used improperly while using it during the process of cross-cutting boards it would more than likely cause the "abuser" (meaning the table saw user), a horrific amount of undue pain and suffering due to the possibility of creating a dangerous "Kick-Back" situation when the board being cut became twisted and jammed itself between the table saw blade and the fence. He stated that it was called a "Rip Fence", and that it was called a "Rip Fence" for one reason, and one reason only. It was to be used only for ripping boards in combination with a ripping blade, and was not to be used during the process of cross-cutting boards in combunation with a Cross-Cutting blade. He then explained to us students that if he observed (or caught), any of us students using that "Rip Fence" during the cros-cutting process, or even if it was sitting on top of the table saw during the cross-cutting procedure, he would immediately cease all woodshop procedures (until he returned from the principles office), and then would escort that student to the principles office to discuss safety procedures with the principle, then write up a written report pertaining to what occurred, and temporarily suspend that student from the use of the wood shop, and its equipment for two weeks, and would give that student a failing grade for that semester. That woodshop teacher was mighty serious about "Safety in the Woodshop", and I have never forgotten either that woodshop teacher, or his "Safety " message pertaining to the proper use of the "Rip Fence".

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Good teacher by sounds of it ! Thanks for this comment it is interesting to hear some of the old experiences from wood shop.

I'm with you, I've always made my cuts with the blade about 1/2" above the wood or high enough to clear the cutouts in the teeth. I always thought that was to aid chip extraction, which prevents binding, which prevents kickback. How much of that is true I don't really know, but it has worked well for me over the past 30 years or so. Hasn't hurt the one carbide all-purpose blade I've been using over most of that time either. Still makes superfine cuts that don't need sanding. Cheaper blades tended to burn the wood so I stopped using them.

@brucemiller1696

2 жыл бұрын

Keeping the blade up helps hold wood down. Lower the blade, the wood wants to ride over the blade. Blade 1/2" high can cut off fingers like it happened to me. I passed out during a cut, lost my pinky with other damage. Nothing can prevent that except sawstop which now i have.

@smkgldb9112

2 жыл бұрын

I so agree with you on this,I was going to say about the same thing until I found your commentyou said it all

@sawman231

2 жыл бұрын

Full tooth and gully above stock. No more to much less can cause blade to lift stock and potentially sling it on you.

@jewishmafia9801

2 жыл бұрын

@@sawman231 exactly this. Most manufacturers of blades recommend this height for an optimal cut, chip and dust extraction, and not too high for safety reasons

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

@@brucemiller1696, thanks for the testimony, pal, it will help keep another person safe, I know this. I really hope that you have, or will, recover full function! L

You mentioned you've been using a table saw for 50 years and I noticed you still have all your fingers! So I'm thinking you know what your talking about. Lol! But seriously, I've only been into wood work for a few years and the only time I've had a board get squirrely on me is when the blade was in a lower position. So this makes total sense. Thanks 😊

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

It is almost old school VS new. I think they both have the GOOD and BAD with each.

Thanks for sharing your experience, expertise and honest advice. I am a retired guy just getting into woodworking and binge-watching KZread videos on table saw safety. One of my first purchases after getting a Dewalt DWS7491RS was a GRR-RPPER 3D Push Block and a Bench Dog Push-Bloc Push Pad. Now I feel like I can begin to make cuts much more safely and build a couple sleds more safely to get started. Tried to work with the single plastic push stick that came with it and quickly realized that was going to be a non-starter for me.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

This episode was more about what we were told in the "old school" days. The gripper is a good choice.

I will pay attention and obey anyone who has been making sawdust as long as you and still has all 10 fingers! Thank you for passing along solid information and being concerned about us!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Louis :)

Having had a close encounter with a blade that left a memorable kerf in my right first metacarpal, I no longer get closer than a sturdy push pad/stick.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

Good testimony, friend. Nothing beats the voice of experience. Someone will be saved from grief, because they reax this.

I have a tremendous amount of respect for table saws... and I use one. I was shown and taught by my Dad not to get the gullet above the workpiece or " You're just asking for trouble, Son". I miss my Dad, but I still heed his teaching and it has served me well, knock on wood. We, and later me, built a lot of "stuff" together. Low teeth and push blocks work. OMG...".... unplugged..". Lmao!! Really"deflated" the egos of the Pseudo Safety Warriors...lolol 😂! Thanks for the demo/info! 👍!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

🤣

Thank you for this very informative video, I am an older like you and not much experience though - I was taught the way you do the blade at the higher depth so your video is a real eye opener. I have never been comfortable with the table saw after almost hitting a fellow student with a kickback board in shop class , so thank you.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Today it is all about safety. Old school was very different in those days :)

Love what your doing. Many years ago when I was just starting, I was cutting live edge lumber to square it. The piece to the left of the blade, the live edge side, tampered down, broke loose at the blade and kicked back. A piece about 4 feet long tore into my t shirt just knicking me. If I had been a few inches to the right it would have gone into my belly. That is the only time I have seen left side kick back.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Off cut is rare, but Jeff King over at The Den of Tools said it happened to him. Thanks for the comment posted. Just shows anything can go wrong.

@christophergallagher531

2 жыл бұрын

youch. radial arm saws make arrows fly. Blades are better now. Early carbide tips would fly off now and then. That was like getting hit with a bullet. I have been lucky. Chris

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Jeff King over at Den of Tools said that happened to him. Rare but it can happen.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

@@christophergallagher531 OH, those days...I got hit in the forehead with a carbide chunk off the blade. Thanks for the memories :)

Back in the 70's I was taught for both table saws and circular saws to set the cutting depth to half the gullet depth. I've been running with that ever since. Nice cuts and safe, never been hurt. Oh yeah, push blocks are a necessity for table saw safety!

@ChristIsLord229

2 жыл бұрын

Exactly this.

@soujrnr

2 жыл бұрын

Forgive me, I'm new to this. What is the gullet depth?

@kazoosc

Жыл бұрын

@@soujrnr suncatcherstudio.com/uploads/woodworking/table-saws/images-large/table-saw-blade-teeth-identification.jpg res.cloudinary.com/yaffa-publishing/image/fetch/q_auto:best,c_fit,w_630,f_auto/http%3A%2F%2Fyaffa-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fyaffadsp%2Fimages%2FdmImage%2FSourceImage%2Fsawblade-anatomy.jpg

@bloomdds

Жыл бұрын

@@soujrnr I can't insert a pic here, so just google it. It is the deep curve right behind the teeth. My understanding is it is where the sawdust goes immediately after a tooth cuts through the wood fibers. Having the gullet exposed gives more escape route for sawdust than a blade sitting low that is buried in the wood.

@soujrnr

Жыл бұрын

@@bloomdds - Thank you!!

I liked how u spent the time & were personable. U explained both sides. Within the video u provide choices in real-time experience, thank you sir. I plan to utilize ur words as a "tool" in a single case sinario. I'm rambling, I'm 38 w/ 3yrs experience, taught in work experience.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

A lot of other wood shows refused to discuss the "other side" and I wanted to go over it in detail.

I started cabinet making around 1992. About 30 years and my favorite job was always cutout on table saw. Those days are gone with CNC but table saw still is needed. I use saw same way with blade about 1/2" to 3/4" above piece. Never been cut, had a few kick backs (never hurt) but learned what not to do.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

The CNC stuff is pretty darn cool

@JimBloggins1

2 жыл бұрын

Lots of shops without CNCs out there still. Being a Sawyer is a fun role when the dust collection is working properly! 😆

I like the blade a little higher also, seems safer and does seem to guide the wood thru the cut. Also use push sticks and feather boards when needed and something you didn't mention was to use a "SHARP"saw blade. A dull blade will get you into trouble.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

OH, yeah...the blade, but that's another story :)

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

@Bamboo Training Two things on a dull blade, it will "burn" going through wood and also you'll have to "push" harder on good wood. A lot of times it just needs cleaning :)

Excellent advice for all. I personally set the blade depth at about 1/8" and I can testify that if I didn't practice that my left thumb would be a little shorter. With that said my incident would not have happened if I had not been distracted by my son-in-law. So my advice is first eliminate all distraction and second concentrate on the project and HAND!!!!

@Ritalie

2 жыл бұрын

WOW. Yes so I wouldn't have any fingers left if I had the blade set 2" high. But I had a kickback, and I had the blade set just barely above the wood, and I got cut at the exact depth that the blade was protruding above the wood. My hand followed the wood backwards into the blade, and rode across the blade on the top of the wood. I cut half way into 4 fingers. They stitched me back up. I'm ok, but I haven't been able to use the saw in 4 months since it happened. I'll be installing a riving knife now.

@coffeeandtools I have periodically used a table saw for home improvement projects, however I am now going to take on the task of building kitchen cabinets. I was going to use a dado blade for this project, but it obviously requires the riving knife to be removed. Do dado blades cause kick back as well? Any other concerns I should have when doing this? Thank you in advance for any and all input.

I've been using a table saw over 50 yrs also. I was 19 and I worked in a cabinet shop, 8 hrs a day on the table saw. The guy that ran the shop was an oldtimer like I am now. Even after all these years seeing the blade up high like that gives me the creeps. You never want to do that.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

In general I was told to use what is comfortable to me, but old school carpenter's shop told me to keep it high for the best cut.

@garyolsen3409

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools Like John Wayne said, "well ya gotta do what your insides tells ya." Keep safe.

If the high blade helps prevent kickback at the cost of increased risk of cutting, then the obvious solution is to keep the blade low but use a riving knife to eliminate the kickback. Alternatively, use a good blade guard and don't worry about the height so much.

@Scrapps97

Жыл бұрын

Still a chance for the wood to crawl up the blade, the saw to bite, and the wood getting chucked. By the blade being higher the forces are pulling down and its less likely to climb. An exposed blade is no different than a bandsaw... and a bandsaw doesn't kick because it is pulling the wood down

There is one problem with your assertion of keeping the blade high because "it keeps the board nice and straight" and that is that the kerf of the blade's teeth are slightly wider than the spinning disk they are mounted to, and the friction you feel keeping it in line is from the back teeth making contact with the board from behind. Yes, there is more distance with which the blade spans to allow less movement, but a Master carpenter will push his fence ever so slightly away from the blade at the far end to keep a board riding away from the fresh cut line, to avoid burn marks on his new line... this takes advantage of the leeway in the kerf of the blade and always gives you a 100% burn free line on the piece against the fence. The biggest thing about kickback is something being out of alignment, or a warped/twisted board. By using a "chicken foot" push stick in conjunction with a normal one, you can add a lot of distance and hold a board very close to the blade, (like a feather board) and give yourself a lot more control than just a regular push block or stick.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

@ Chris Griffith, can you describe a ''chicken foot'' stick, compared to a ''normal one'', please? What I call a ''bird's mouth'' has just a notch cut into one end. Is that it?

@chrisgriffith1573

2 жыл бұрын

@@leehaelters6182 yes

Great video and great advice. After working for just over 14 years in a production shop with 8 to 12 hours a day 6 days a week a lot of the time, I solved the problem on my home shop. I bought a Vevor power feeder. It works great. And I always kept my blades high, just above the gullets. I still have 10 fingers with no empty slots.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah!! Let's hear it for power feeders!!! What a revelation when we started using one on the shaper. And I only know of one shop of fellas in my own particular orbit that bothered to move it to the saw now and then, but it is an excellent solution that I have never seen mentioned in discussions like this!

The worst kick back I ever got was from ripping with the cutoff narrower than the outboard opening of my face plate. I was needing some thin veneer faces for covering plywood edges. It splintered at a small knot and dove into the opening. I heard it before I saw it… but still couldn’t hit the stop before it came back at me. I ducked just in time to have it whiz by my ear. That startled me and I let loose of the push block. It hit the blade snd was thrown back also. The wider portion of the board rose up on the saw blade and skidded much slower back toward me as well. That split second taught me a couple of lessons… 1. Use a zero clearance insert when cutting narrow edges from parts… or just joint them some other way instead. In this case I was needing to use the narrow edge. 2. I’m not faster, stronger, tougher or smarter than a tablesaw. So, spend as much time and effort as it takes to do a safe setup! As far as the secret goes… I’m an old fart too. I use a riving knife on every cut that I can. And blade height… I split the difference. The norm for me is for a full tooth to protrude above the wood. It is lower than the thickness of my push block yet high enough to have that downward cut that gives the cleanest cut. I’d like to add one more thing… all of the new saws come with plastic push sticks. That should be outlawed. The only time I’ve been cut on my saw was when the brittle plastic push stick hit the blade. It shattered and a shard imbedded in my cheek. When I wrote to the manufacturer they sent me another one with a full page set of instruction on how to use it safely. Both of which went directly in the trash!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

You've had some bad times. Thanks so much for sharing this info. The video is about height of blade , old reasons VS the new safety ideas. The Riving Knife is another video perhaps ?

@sassafrasvalley1939

2 жыл бұрын

@@SirTools you mentioned it and even said you were going to build one… I thought so any way??

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Looking at a 3d printer app for it..."maybe" LOLOLm:)

Many people are saying the blade should be high enough that the bottom of the gullet is just clear of the work to efficiently remove the sawdust and increase the cooling of the blade. I always use Push sticks and/or push blocks. You gave the most important piece of advice quite early into the video. "Keep your hands away from the blade"!

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

yeah, that would be NUMBER one in my books, but I was taught to run the blade high by Pro's and this is against the "safe" gang

Hi, lumber yards use very large circular saws normally at full depth of cut but they are usually used with the "work piece" in a carriage on guide rails. This is similar to my preferred approach on a table saw in that I use a fence on both sides of the work piece with clamped blocks on the left hand fence to stop the work piece lifting. Also an adjustable guard that covers the blade position is attached to the right hand fence and push sticks are used to feed in the work piece through the "jig" formed by the two fences. Admittedly more time to set up but gives very accurate, repeatable and safe cuts (particularly on a long work piece). Note; still not idiot proof and will not stop stop kickback due to blunt saws and excessive feed rates.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

We have a lumber yard not far from here and I inspected the saw setup. Good points !

I find the wood likes to lift, possibly landing on top of the blade causing kickback, if you're not careful when the blade is too low. Especially with larger pieces, which creates a constant other issue if you use that practice. Loosing control of your material is no bueno... Love your vids!

Good video! It is helpful for newbies and weekend warriors. I've been woodworking for 65 years and still have all my fingers and other body parts. I use the rule on table saws and circular saws to set the blade so the bottom of the gullet between the teeth is even with the surface of the board.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds like your doing it right :)

Perspective. I think the main reason that the table saw is the number one piece of equipment that people get injured on, is because it's by far the one piece of equipment that most all woodworkers have. Great video.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

I like that, it could be just that simple.

@Patrick-kc5ur

2 жыл бұрын

While that is certainly true, safety training other than on You Tube is basically "accidental"! Splitters and riving knives will prevent 98% of kickbacks and are not very well understood, so they remain in the drawer with the blade guard attached, at least mine did until I realized what function they perform. Prior to reinstalling my splitters, I did have a few kickbacks and they were painful. After putting them back on I've had none! Those slender push sticks that provide no down pressure and often used in pairs are a safety hazard and prone to sliding along the workpiece.

In the UK and most of Europe you should NEVER operate a circular saw bench without a riving knife fitted to within 8mm of the blade and a guard must always be fitted and placed as near as practical to the work. Likewise when ripping solid timber the fence should never go past the gullet of the blade at bench level. I agree that you do get a better cut with the blade up high, really not too much of a problem if it is sufficiently guarded, generally though the advice is to set the blade low. We also say your hand should be a minimum of 300mm away from the blade so most of the sticks or grippers that are in use in the US would be illegal here in the UK. People, statistically this is the most dangerous piece of equipment in a wood shop keep the guard and riving knife fitted at all times and use a push stick of at least 350mm long and only use it for ripping and occasional crosscuts, there is far better equipment to cut grooves, rebates etc available. I do appreciate that different countries have different rules and what I have said will upset some but I say it with safety in mind.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Love this input from UK. Super thanks for this comment. I have some fellows in Germany right now sending me emails too. Telling me why did you release this darkest of secrets :)

@chrisrowley4732

2 жыл бұрын

Illegal! really? Point me to that law please.

@joepmeloen3373

2 жыл бұрын

I believe here its not allowed to sell saws without a riving knife and professional shops/ users have to use it. Workplace safety etc.. The us style fences are i think pretty dangerous.

@chrisrowley4732

2 жыл бұрын

@@joepmeloen3373 yep, but those are not laws they are HSE regulations and dont include your personal equipment in your own home, unless your using it in relation to a business

30 years as a carpenter. I am right there with you. Teach safety to the newbies. Do what works best for you. I swear by fish sticks and jigs.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

I take my fish sticks with beans and ketchup, thank you.

I always use the same safety push boards you use to help guide the wood instead of my bare hand by the blade just in case. I also cut with my blade a little high too cause I think it cuts better also. Been woodworking 40 years and so far so good. Great video and Thanks for making it.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Hey, thanks for the comment.

My dad would lower the blade all the way down, unplug the saw, and remove the belt when he was done using his table saw. I do not remember him teaching me how to use it or explicitly giving me permission to use it. I guess he figured if I had passed wood shop in middle school and was strong enough to drag the saw out of the furnace room into the basement, and get the v-belt back on, I must be okay to run it.

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

Three cheers for your careful Dad!

I think one of the big reasons for kickback is rip fences that are not parallel to the blade, especially if the are closer at the rear of the blade. I have a couple of older Craftsman saws and frankly the rip fences are not very accurate. I think an accurate fence is probably the most useful thing you can do to prevent kickback to say nothing of putting out better work.

@rcajun8902

9 ай бұрын

Thank you , the riving knife doesn't prevent kickback, rip fences that are not parallel to the blade is the problem with kickback.

Personal Note. First time viewer noticed your cap. My Father was a test flight engineer for the C-130 A through J model. He was with the 4 Horsemen also. Great stories about the power to weight for the A model allowing it to do the aerial tricks the Thunderbirds would do. Made me feel good seeing your cap.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

Very cool!

The only time I ever had kick back was while cutting a piece of oak that was about 8x6 inches. I was cutting a groove to fit a tongue so the blade was only about 1/4 inch into a 1/2 inch board. I wouldnt have any fingers if it wasnt for the wood on top. I tried to keep it from kicking and ended up with both hands on it. Just a split second reaction before I let it completely go. When I let it go it took a second before it kicked back. The board came back really fast hitting my right hip and hand then flew about 30 ft or so into the air. Good old memories of high school wood shop. Lol it could've been really bad but I ended up with a monkey bubble on my right index finger and a bruise on my hip. That's one of those scenarios that makes one never forget it. I still use table saws all the time, just more carefully now. One thing you should add is keeping the bigger portion of the wood being cut to the fence. That's a pretty big tip on not getting kick back.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

YES... I was looking at that ratio for using the fence. I call it over square to the blade, but that is another basic and yet no one seems to mention it. GOOD thoughts.

Thank you for this. I still have a love hate relationship with my table saw and router. As a beginner, I am constantly terrified and basically avoid doing any work! But videos like this help my anxiety a great deal! Thank you!…On to those shelves then!

@Ritalie

2 жыл бұрын

Install a riving knife, and check the alignment of your table saw fence. The rear of the fence should be slightly toed out (away from the blade) compared to the front by a maximum distance of 0.015" or 1/64th inch. It's safer to have the rear of the fence slightly toed out. If you have the rear of the fence too tight, and it's closer than the front of the fence, then you'll pinch the wood and burn the wood and risk death every time you make a cut. If you don't have a riving knife, don't use your saw at all. I mean it. Just throw it away. Or buy a $25 Micro Jig kerf splitter, either the thick turquoise color one, or the yellow one for thin kerf blades, and it goes into 2 holes in your throat plate around the blade, to create a simulated riving knife.

@gammawave1739

2 жыл бұрын

You can’t be scared grab it like a rabbit and say to yourself it’s going through that saw with confidence or don’t do it

I was taught the MINIMUM height was the one that cleared the tooth gullet above the material. It gives a clean cut because it keeps the saw from dragging excess sawdust down into the cut zone, but also guarantees spitting dust upwards. Second, to avoid standing directly behind the area between the blade and fence. (Don't let anyone else stand in that line, either. Easy to do for narrower cuts, near impossible for wide ones. I've experienced a couple of incidents. One was the inadvertent kind of twist another responder mentioned. That resulted in a violent throw upwards of the ply panel I was cutting. Scared the bejesus out of me and I stopped for the day. Another was a classic pinch ripping hardwood, kerf closing up as tension was released from the cut, the kickback coming from the fence side. This on an older saw without a riving knife. That was an absolute rocket straight back. That missed because I wasn't in the danger zone. For those who haven't seen this, the speed is beyond belief. Personally, I think the safest solution is a higher blade, which reduces the most common problem (kickback) PLUS using a blade guard. And I have to confess that I don't use the latter very much, also relying on tools to keep my hands clear. I do use feather boards a lot when ripping, too. I've tried hold-down devices, but found them too much of a pain in the neck to use in a home (i.e., non-production) shop where you're changing set-ups all the time. Thanks for the video - it has me thinking about guards again.

@gammawave1739

2 жыл бұрын

Boom say like it is

Totally agree with the high blade. And you said another word several times.... CONTROL. Make sure you are always in control of the work, either with your hands or with push stick(s), and keep it smoothly moving as much as you can. Don't leave work sitting between the fence and the spinning blade and get distracted and leave it uncontrolled for a millisecond. Work sitting between the fence and a spinning blade uncontrolled is about to become a missile, aimed straight at YOU. If you need to stop for some reason (heart attack, ninja attack, sudden onset of overwhelming existential angst), keep the work under control and reach down and switch off the saw, and keep the work under control until the blade spins down. Great video. This video will save some fingers.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

control and plan each cut

Good stuff… I thought I remembered that from wood shop back in 1971. Now, thanks to your video, I realized that advice/directions have changed. Thank you

Understanding the physics that is going on when using a table saw is a significant part of being safe. Most of the guys that I know that have gotten hurt just didn’t understand what they were doing. The other ones were doing something repetitive and got complacent.

@jonlanier_

Жыл бұрын

Exactly!

6:34 Very poor argument. 1: The teeth are wider than the "body" of the blade, so the only thing in direct contact with the wood is the side of the teeth themselves. If you let the blade guide the board, you will cut into the edge already done with the upward going teeth, which is one of the main causes for kickback. 2: You have a MUCH longer guide right on the other side of the board (aka the rip fence)... ;) Not making a cut because it feels unsafe, is probably the best advice anyone can give you. If a cut feels unsafe, mostly it's because it is! I have aborted a cut more than once because it just fealt wrong.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

IF it feels wrong...don't do it :)

I have had two tablesaws; first one a craftsman, 2nd a delta unisaw 35 years old still have it. Never had a cut injury on the TS. My father got a kickback. I suffered a kickback of an offcut while narrowing a piece of moulding, blade was at 45 degrees, had a splitter with pawls on one side only (need to fix this), had an overhead blade guard. The cut off was about 3/4 inch by 3/8 inch with sharp 45 degree angle on it. Saw was off as the kickback happened. The cutoff cut my arm. Only a few drops of blood. Doctor later said I was very lucky. I was. I bring about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of blade over the workpiece above. I use one or two push sticks of different shapes and other hold down devices to control the wood. (didn't have many hold downs for the moulding difficult set up.) As I see the keep the blade right at the top of the wood, the blade is much harder to see. Like the antelope in Africa walking near the lions, leopards and cheetah, if they can see it they can avoid it. Don't be afraid to use the TS. RESPECT the TS. It is Dangerous. You MUST learn its behaviour and how you must behave around it. But if you practice good technique and use push sticks you can avoid injury.

I've been using the table saw for the past 65 years and still use the free 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 with a handle to use as the push contraption for cutting. I usually let the blade cut into the push contraption a bit especially when I am cutting real narrow pieces like I will be doing i the near future. I usually use a longer one when I am cutting thinner wood like 1/4 inch plywood. This helps keep the plywood flat. I have never seen a table saw with the blade mounted so far toward the back, why????? I've never had a saw (I'm on my 4th one) with the knife and or the plastic guard and I'm still with all of my fingers and no scars at all. I really liked the video.

@SirTools

11 ай бұрын

Just felt like nobody talks about "old school" LOL

This is late to the party, but what I was taught as a machinist was to select my blades such that I would have three teeth in the work. I could use more, but there might be more heat from friction and drag as the teeth spring in (kerf narrowing) but if I used less I would be likely to break teeth in the work. The stress just isn't divided among enough cutters. That's for metalwork, but the same goes for wood. I set my table saw so I keep three teeth in the cut. If I'm ripping thick boards, fewer teeth on the blade so I don't have to stand it out so tall, and thin sheet, more teeth.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

I had 7 years in a machine shop and that's another story for another day. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks, very good. My opinion is to always have a little 'fear' for every power tool as they can all do damage.

The back and forth you're showing in the 12:00 timeframe makes puts a lot into perspective, and explains the "kickback" you said you were getting Yes, the lower the blade the less likely you are to be considered for the next Cpt Hook audition But ALL of the pushing force is straight back (maybe you said it sooner) Effectively what's happening - as you're showing by manhandling the blade directly, it isn't terribly sharp - is it relies on the tearing force and inertia of going the 5k rpm's you mentioned It's more accurate then to say this "efficiently tears" the wood than "cuts through" it I feel like I'm rambling now, but the bottom line is as long of you are using something to extend your reach of the board across the table safely, medium-high blade is ultimately safer than the "as low as possible" which is more likely to cause some part of what you're dealing with to smack you in the gut and potentially lead to all sorts of dangerous hi-jinx

I run a mix of high or low breakthrough depends on what I'm doing. (I'm 50+) Back in my early 20's we operated a 56" saw mill here on the property, its still here. that blade most times was proud out of most cuts, and a rhyne board,slat or the finish board... if the off barer (that's the person catching or off baring the boards stacking them)if he goofed or let a board get in the back side of blade, you could have a 2x12 rocket and most of those end up with a fatal outcome. very good presentation. ALL good points.

1974 Craftsman Cast Iron tablesaw, I'm with you on the high side better cut , less heat with hard woods, still have 10 fingers and 2 thumbs.............

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

You Da man :)

One of the things that I have always added to a table saw to improve safety is an outfeed table. It may not be necessary on small pieces, but, ripping a long heavy board, or panel, without one leaves you pressing hard on the tail to prevent lift at the end of the cut. Pressing almost straight down so hard while your hand is near the blade, even with a push stick, or other device, is a recipe for disaster. Another thing that you didn't mention, never stand directly in line behind the cut. A brain is the best safety device that you can have on a table saw

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

NEVER be a target LOLOL...this was about what old school told us to do with table saws. Funny they never mentioned do NOT stand in front of the wood cut line. Guess they thought that was common sense :)

I have been wood working for the past 50 years and feel that I have some notable accomplishments with it. My tablesaw is an old Atlas model, still in quite good shape, but it does not have a riving blade. I don’t know if they even thought of riving blades back in 1950 when my saw was made and my father bought it. my greatest safety concerns on the saw are: 1) mindset I convinced myself long ago when I let my mind wander a little and nicked my thumb that you have to realize that what this monster machine wants most of all is to cut off an appendage. fingers, hands, feet; it doesn’t care as long as there is lots of blood. You have to approach the tool as if it is out to get you and keep concentrated on what you are doing and what is safe, every second that the machine is running. 2) helpful tools My fence clamps to the saw tabletop and is about 1 ½ inches wide. If I cut something within a relatively short distance from the blade, I have formed a habit of draping my hand over the fence, providing prevention of movement of my hand towards the blade. I can never project my thumb on the blade side to a distance that can reach the blade. If I must cut closer, I use push sticks (carefully) or a sliding “U” shaped push fixture that fits relatively closely over my fence and has a replaceable protruding push stick on the saw side to grab and push the wood. On the top right side of the fixture I have a ¾ in. dowel inserted and protruding towards the right. I use this to grab and push the fixture with my hand. It provides all the control and direction I need without putting my hand in even minimal harms way. It will work with 2x4’s,and plywood equally well. I still have all my fingers. 3) I also use a plastic dust sucking blade guard when I can. Perhaps I can fit a riving blade sometime.

@SirTools

Жыл бұрын

A lot of "rushing" seems to be the main event. The riving knife is another problem. Splitter is pretty good too, but only if your using a straight cut. My latest saw came without a riving knife and again just never had one anyway since those old days. Thanks for posting and taking the time to write this up.

You mention using a 36" blade, as I often do. In my opinion different blade sizes have impact on the height you should use to get a. a proper cut, b. prevent kickback by determining the angle between the cutting tooth and the wood and c. leave the shop with 10 fingers by exposing as little blade as possible. Big saws will often allow for smaller blade sizes mounted as well. Would that have a positive impact on safety when cutting thinner wood?

Yes, a high blade greatly reduces kickback. It pushes the wood down onto the table where you want it. If you use the proper safety tools, I believe it is overall safer.

@tinker-ing-around2317

2 жыл бұрын

A fence parallel with the blade is priority #1. Kickback is most likely to occur if you fence is not parallel to the blade or when you are trying to cut very short pieces and it rotates as it passes the rear of the blade. If you are pushing wood into through a "funnel" (a fence that is farther away from the fence at the front of the blade and closer at the rear) then a high blade is less safe because a higher blade creates the greatest distance from the front of the blade and the fence and the back of the blade and the fence.

@stenmin1234

2 жыл бұрын

@@tinker-ing-around2317 exactly. The biggest reason for kickback is the wood pinching on to the blade. That's why you don't ever use a miter gauge while using the fence. It's why riving knives are so effective. Having your blade higher does very little if anything to prevent kickback. If your workpiece pinches, funnels or turns into the blade the higher blade isn't going to prevent that kickback.

Thanks for the honest, straight forward info. My thought is: If a higher blade gives me less chance of kickback injury, while a lower setting gives me less chance of losing fingers, then, I figure that I'll recover and be able to keep woodworking and playing the piano with scar on my belly. So I would go with a lower blade. Also, I try to always stay to the side and out of the line of fire, especially if the cut looks like it could get pinched.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

I do like the stand aside idea :)

@leehaelters6182

2 жыл бұрын

Definitely stand aside all the time. A significant hazard of kickback is not only impact to your body, but also that your fingers may be dragged toward the blade as the stock dances around. It is no trick to keep your digits away from the blade with push devices, go with higher blade and more controllable forces on the stock.

@markchidester6239

2 жыл бұрын

Yup, stand to the side! A guy at work took a shot to the nuts trying to rip a 2x4. Put him down bad!

I recall when I was a kid my Dad taking me to the local lumber yard, which had a milling shop. ALL (or it seemed like all) of the men who worked there had missing fingers or parts of fingers! That taught me a lesson that I have never forgotten... keep my fingers/hands away from the blade! I always use push blocks, and I usually keep the blade low. I try to hook my little finger over the fence, so my hand is less likely to slip left, into the blade. I ALWAYS, DELIBERATELY, FOCUS! If cutting slender pieces, I use push sticks, but am always aware that they are less stable than my blocks. I ALWAYS stand outside the kick-back zone, when possible, just in case! SO FAR, SO GOOD! In 15 years of regular table saw use, I've never gotten so much as a nick.

@SirTools

2 жыл бұрын

A good routine for keeping fingers off the blade.

Coffee and tools, My grandfather was a mastercarpenter, that's what he taught me when using the table saw, now he dud tell me to try and keep the curfing knife for the rise of material from happening so you could and can use the blade as a straight edge, because the fence can bind the work piece.... That's my take of input...

@SirTools

Ай бұрын

Old school rules