My dad (FSVA RICS) would have agreed with every word. This sounds like one of our childhood mealtime lectures. Spot on.

@sicknote26

5 ай бұрын

😂😂 the good old boys love it

5 pints love it . Makes me think he knows his way round building and the pub . Being a roofer for 30 years plus he's bang on

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

I haven't been in a pub for over 6 months. It is not the drink I miss though I do like a nice English ale.

@23sunderland

3 жыл бұрын

@@SkillBuilder lol only joking mate good stuff

Roger, the loft comment... Spot on. Your experience has proven time and time again you know what you are taking about. Great thanks!

Thanks Roger for the video. Perfect timing as I’m having exactly this issue at the moment!

Bought a house built in the 1950s a few years ago. Huge unaddressed mold problems and very steamed up windows in the evenings. I installed some soffit vents (there were none) and a PIV unit in loft. No more problems, cheap and easy to install as well.

2 and a bit hours of KZread and finally a video that explained this to me. Cheers Roger!!!

Roger you're brilliant i hope the all mighty gives you very long life and you can go on teaching us,you are one in million i love yours and Robins veidos great job well done.

Experience, intelligence and expertise. Thanks for sharing Roger. Cheers.

Just bought a 50s bungalow and putting in an ensuite bedroom upstairs under PD.. Most of the airbricks have been covered up at the ground floor which has meant the floorboards and joists were soaking wet when we pulled the carpets up 🙄. New airbricks going in all around the perimeter of the suspended floor, membranes and in line extractor fans all round too. Thanks for the advice and explanation on the channel. Very helpful!

Roger is a legend. Can’t get enough of his videos

fantastic video. perfectly explains the problems. your roof design skills are top notch.

Thank you so much, this was the best video about vapor control by far. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and explaining it so well.

So glad I followed your recommendation and applied Storm Dry to the outside walls of our 1960's bungalow last summer, what a difference it has made and the house feels warmer.

@tullgutten

3 жыл бұрын

Water is a excellent thermal conductor. And it makes bricks much more thermal conductive when it's wet

@simonstones1918

3 жыл бұрын

What has it done for you?

@aaronharris5275

3 жыл бұрын

So the water now runs and beads off the bricks better now does it? Saturated bricks allow the cold from the outside in. Is that what you have found?

Perfect. I understood everything. Great advice.

It's a very good presentation at conveying how difficult things are becoming and that what we see as modern designs are often no longer any good in some situations. You mention Canada as a place of extremes, but they are here in the UK too and becoming more common due to climate change. I live in a UK house which does get these weather extremes. It's old so has no felt or membrane under its stone slate roof and it's very draughty, yet condensation forms under it. One of the main reasons is we can have a lot of wind and rain for a long period of time. Recently it soaked the house, it even drove the rain through the Stormdry it was that bad. This was then followed by very still and cold weather so it couldn't dry out, it just sweated with condensation and continues to do so.

That half hour flew by! Genuinely interesting and pretty well explained. Your effort appreciated Roger. Stay safe. Paul, Newmarket, Suffolk.

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, will do!

Excellent information, condensed into 30 minutes. Thank you very much.

I use a low energy dehumidifier to keep relative humidity at around 55%.I am amazed at the amount of water it pulls out of the atmosphere.Stops condensation on windows and eliminates potential mould and other nasties for wellbeing.I am very satisfied with the results.

@abbyanderson4171

2 жыл бұрын

Check your electricity bill...

@craigchamberlain

Жыл бұрын

Yeah, we’ve got a dehumidifier which can pull 20L of water a day from the air but it costs (in Aug 2022) about £600 a year to run which is not great. What we’re doing now is only using it when drying clothes indoors where it becomes effectively a heat pump tumble drier without the “tumble”. We’ve actually got a heat pump tumble drier as well and I need to do an exercise to see which is actually more efficient! What worries me more is that, in our loft, the slate nails penetrate the sarking boards and droplets of water condense on the nail points in winter and drip onto the loft floor. I don’t see any signs of an effective vapour barrier between the heated part of the house and the loft so I think we need to improve that as best we can but also improve the ventilation of the loft which seems minimal at best. Why don’t surveyors find basic stuff like this when surveying houses for potential buyers? 🤷‍♂ Going back to the dehumidifier, if you are going to use one then don’t use it while simultaneously ventilating the house with open windows. If you do this then all you’re doing is dehumidifying the planet! which is an expensive exercise in futility. My suggestion is to dehumidify overnight when electricity is potentially cheaper and the windows are closed. And do it in areas of the house which can benefit most. But as Roger said, try to ventilate cooking steam or shower steam at source via ducted ventilation. We’ve been guilty of turning those off because the humming noise is annoying but I can see now that they are important. Thanks again Roger. 👍

@rsmith02

2 ай бұрын

@@craigchamberlain Heat pump should be more efficient. Is there no option to dry outside or semi-outside or in a room with windows open and doors closed so the vapor goes outside vs around your home?

Great explanation. fantastic understanding of the problem. Every things relative.

Thank you Roger, very informative and helpful

Thanks Rogers, really great understandable video👍

Brilliant video buddy, I had this problem and used those vents you slide between the felt laps, problem solved 👍

Thanks Roger, very informative. The only thing missed is the Blue Peter solution for bitumen felt by using polystyrene wedges between the sheets to enhance the airflow.

Well explained. Thanks Roger

POLYTHENE VAPOUR BARRIER DISINTEGRATING! Just discovered Skill Builder and most impressed, all seems very useful and sensible advice. I have one problem which I'd be interested if anyone else has experienced and what may have caused it. I had condensation in the roof of my 1980's-built house, on the underside of the bitumen roofing felt and roof timbers. So I installed soffit vents and also put clear sheet polythene under the fibreglass loft insulation, on top of the plasterboard of the bedroom ceilings, as described in the video. This has reduced the problem but some years later all the polythene sheet has become brittle and when exposed and touched just breaks into pieces - so it's usefulness as a vapour barrier is much reduced. I think the polythene was just standard clear polythene sheet bought from a builders merchant, not specifically sold as a vapour barrier. Does anyone know why this has happened? Is it some reaction between the polythene and the glassfibre? It's most frustrating having put all that polythene sheet in and it's now pretty useless. Any ideas, or similar experiences, would be appreciated.

Really good video and explanation of vapour barriers and breathable barriers,it's still complicated to me ,I was in propery maintenance and refurbishment for over 40 years and still find it hard to get my head around, as vapour goes where it wants and stopping it or redirecting it in older properties to cause the least amount of condensation is difficult.thanks

Great video....absolute great.Thank you!!!

Absolutely Roger, another great video. I've had plenty of time now to observe how Stormdry is working effectively on my weather facing exposed brickwork on our 13 year old Redrow house. Last year at this time we were facing a complete mess with water penetrating the cavity. No such problem now and water literally bounces of the outside walls. No issues with condensation either, plenty of vents and air flow and as you rightly say Stormdry allows moisture to exit the bricklayer without allowing larger rain and water in. Simple physics really. Keep the videos coming :)

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

That is great to know thanks for telling us. I am sure it will help others

@ellis2792

Жыл бұрын

You bought a new build from red row. Good luck 😂

Great bit of info thanks!!

Thank you. I've just started noticing white spots on my loft interior roof ply. I thought I had a problem with my roof. This totally makes sense as I have downlighters in every room. Also the white dotting/clouding is mostly above shower room

Your video has really helped me to understand why I am getting so much moisture in my loft. I didnt realise I had such a problem until I went to get my christmas decs down yesterday. I was absolutely horrified and panicked, all I could see was loads of money and the big problem of trying to search for a proper decent builder to resolve the issue, with Christmas on the horizon, difficult. But after watching your video I calmed down and began to think how I coould tackle the problem sensibly. Been up there today and have a plan!! Thank you so much for your help Roger.

@mattmecham

Жыл бұрын

Google lap felt vents. Fixed my problem in a few days.

@hollow34

Жыл бұрын

Get rid of moisture sinks like cardboard, use plastic boxes, lay everything flat so air can move around your loft. Make sure loft hatch is sealed up good. Vent bathroom after a shower, get a dehumidifier on the landing, get a hygrometer to keep track of humidity levels upstairs. close the kitchen door when cooking, use the fan hood to vent cooking humidity.

@007JHS

Жыл бұрын

For the first time this year as I got our Christmas decs down from the loft I noticed a lot of damp on the underside of the roof space.

@gary8306

6 ай бұрын

@@mattmechamThankyou, never heard of of them before.

No rant - very calm and useful thanks 👍

You are Absolutely right sir . I agree with every word you said .

I Always install a HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) Excellent video.

Thank you, brilliant information

Excellent lesson there thank you

Excellent video. Thanks.

very informative- thank you.

Thank you for a very informative video. Should help with my flat roof ventilation problems.

Roger, just wanted to say a huge thank you for this video. Very well explained and I finally understand why I’m getting damp issues. Have liked and subscribed which is not something I do often. Keep up the good work and awesome teaching techniques. 🙏😁

@SkillBuilder

Жыл бұрын

Glad it helped

Another great video, well done.

Brilliant, thank you 👍

Thank you learnt a lot from this

This guy is incredible.

The ‘he means fewer problems’ caption absolutely made my day. My wife and I always argue about this. I say it should be fewer, and she’s wrong. I’d never criticise a word a legend like Roger says obviously, but still...

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

Dylan and I have a running joke about this and I can't believe I got it wrong. Dylan put in the correction and he is right. The rule is very simple. If you can quantify it with a number it is 'fewer' if you can't then it is less. So "fewer people came to the concert this year which made it less crowded." My five says we have less money because fewer customers are willing to pay my extortinate rates.

@mickyork41

3 жыл бұрын

Spoken like a true journalist Roger. I did 13 years on a local paper and went from being told off to doing the telling off on that one over that time. I have a damp porch built less than two years ago. The builder has been back a few times already and hoping he’ll have it sorted soon but wondering if some of your wisdom in this video is relevant. Will take those down lighters out and have a nosy inside the flat roof...

@thetessellater9163

3 жыл бұрын

Waitrose had "five items or fewer" checkouts until recently; proper speak!

I have just fitted 10 x felt lap vents for £25 - worked wonders 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

Thanks Pal another very interesting vid .... keep them coming

brilliant I really understand how it work now, I learn more from illustrations

Love the 'fewer' bit! Less of a problem will give you fewer (number) of problems! I have taken a lot away from this vid including a bit of grammar so thanks. I am researching new boilers so came to this via one of your other vids. BTW I am still trying to find your vid on how to stop that turkey in my bathroom sink!

Before I retired I worked as a building inspector for the NHBC. When I witnessed a vapour check installed at ceiling level below a roof space I asked the builder to remove it as it causes mould to build up in the ceiling as the moisture struggles to escape.

Great video Roger. Regards from Ireland

Thank you for the brilliant video/lecture! It answered all questions which have been running through my head for the last few years. I'm interested in the case which there is a solid brick wall with a 100mm external insulation, rendered with ciment+sand+lime? Many thanks!

I've been looking for two months for this EXACT video! Thank you! Thank you! God bless

Another great video.

I trust Roger more than anyone else, his advice and explanation is spot on.

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks John, I try to be honest but personally I am a great believer in getting a few opinions and then working out who is telling the truth.

Thank you : )

Love this channel 💪

Hi Roger, Ive lived in 2 bungalows that both suffered with condensation, I total agree with your information, old 60’s bungalow had cavity wall insulation at some time and loft full of insulation, windows streamed ever day, I solved it by clearing all the insulation jammed in between the roof rafters at plate level added 6 roof tile vents and good bathroom extractors. Job done. Great skill builder videos Thanks Tony

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

Good result Tony.

@rsmith02

2 ай бұрын

You can combine a vented loft with insulation at the floor level, just air seal the heck out of it first. Air movement is the biggest issue vs diffusion through solids.

Thank you. It answered a question i left in the comments on a later video. I dont know why I didnt see this video when it was uploaded. I want to build a cavity wall without plastic but with Rockwool and ventilation. For rainproofing I want to use lime.

Interesting stuff,well presented......

I've never used a vapour barrier to the loft. I simply make sure the loft area is well ventilated with soffit vents etc.

@kevinrobertfrasier1309

3 жыл бұрын

Lets say a builder plants a lump of 5x2 along the width of the properties behind the facia board which blocks off the air vents and air flow then that has created a problem. This is the case on new builds in entire rows and these properties suffer badly from moisture in the loft spaces causing moldy ceilings

@thetessellater9163

3 жыл бұрын

@@kevinrobertfrasier1309 - not sure what you mean, Kevin, I've never seen anything behind the fascia, they're usually fixed to the rafter ends, and the vents are underneath on the soffits. Builders also use plastic under-felt vents between the joists allowing air to pass by keeping the insulation from blocking the ventilation path. At least in the UK, though you may be referring to builders in other countries?

@mattychapatti7342

3 жыл бұрын

@@thetessellater9163 this is what my loft is like. (5 year old redrow house) but the insulation had been shoved right down into the eves squashing the plastic vents closed. We had bad condensation when we moved in 8 weeks ago but I unblocked these added felt lap vent, re secured the fan hose vent. And so far so good no more condensation

Thanks

Another excellent stream. Just one question. Can you use Storm Dry on pebble dash. Or does it have to be on brickwork? And thanks again for an excellent channel.

Mad video love it

Got problems with my loft! Been thinking for ages. Also got a job coming up to stop damp and insulate corner of a house. Thanks for that! Explains alot! The grey grey area and lots of opinions on condensation. Never thought of a membrane on top of ceiling joists. THANKS!

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

Normally the membrane is put on the underside of the joists and the plasterboard goes over it,

Nice one Roger.👍

great video

good video on the technical side of how moisture forms but would like to see what you can do and what products you can use to help reduce moisture to a current property with moisture on the felt inside

Brilliant explanation Roger, I wish you had of been my school teacher.

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

sadly I was a very disruptive pupil and gave my teachers a hard time. I would like to go back and apologise but it is too late.

That was really interesting, been thinking about what to do in our 1890 cottage, decided to leave it as it was built, only lambs wool in the loft, its draughty and sometimes cold but bang the woodburner on and its toastie, cool in the summer too. Old tech is sometimes the best tech.

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

You can't beat the woodburner

Never mind the Bollocks Roger, love it!

Yes good explanations roger ive just done a warm and cold roof at home no vapour barriers although I think p I r insulation has a barrier on it anyway I would say it’s worth mentioning that on a cold roof cross vent with battens is essential and with a warm roof I’ve done exactly as you explained the only problem I get is a bit of friction between the insulation and the ply when the sun gets on it and makes a bang as it warms so may need something between 👍

You can seal areas of your house to prevent water vapour inside travelling to other areas such as the roof or walls. But you do not stop condensation problems, only move the problem to another part of the house.. Seal one area, water vapour with find the next coldest area and condense, seal that area, the vapour will the next coldest part of the house and so on. My house house is well sealed, but I have am am the extremes of the problem, where the coldest part of my house is now the hinges on the external doors and windows, and I have pools of water here. There is only one way to stop condensation, seal the house, but add a heat recovery system, it will remove the worst of the vapour with the benefit of heating cost savings and filtered air.

As always, well as most often :-) great content and practically informative. So useful to peruse your videos for a bit of no nonsense on subjects I’ve not dealt with for a while combining a good bit of ‘old’ wisdom and useful modern methods that actually pan out as worth learning… What are your thoughts on adding external ROCKWOOL with a timber (thinking charred larch) or cement panel rainscreen over painted pop block with cavity wall insulation. My thoughts are converting the inner walls into more of a heat store by wrapping the walls in a fireproof blanket and allowing whatever moisture working through the walls into the cavity fill to migrate out into the ventilated ROCKWOOL over time. My only concern is whether I need to remove the existing white masonry paint surface before ROCKWOOL goes up as the latest coat has been in place for over 10 years over the previous 10 year coats and it still looks as good as the day it went on (live in Cornwall where nearly all exterior walls are white) I’m concerned it has created an impervious barrier for water movement outwards. Perhaps drill a few holes and add a stick of compressed felt to wick moisture out of the walls to evaporate into the ROCKWOOL? What do you think Roger? Or anyone else reading the comment…

Another super video Roger, thanks. Is a loft vapour barrier needed for an older solid wall house with sheep wool insulation? I'm trying to keep the house ventilated, but don't know it that applies to the loft too

Great video and love your no nonsense approach! Putting an extractor in a roof will remove the air and stop moisture building up, but it also defeats the point of the insulation since cold air will constantly be drawn in lower down the building from outside to replace the lost air. I put open cell foam into my roof and vents behind that, which stops the massive airflow of an extractor but still allows the roof to breathe and get rid of the moisture. It also costs nothing to run. For me at least, it solved the problem since it's like goretex but insulated.

@SkillBuilder

2 жыл бұрын

The fan in the loft blows air into the house to put it under positive pressure thereby forcing the airborne moisture out through the windows and doors provided they have trickle vents

@charlieshore231

Жыл бұрын

@@SkillBuilder always a pleasure to watch you informative videos Roger. We have a condensation issue in the winter, would you recommend the PIV extractors in the loft to help with the situation as the bungalow has no membrane in the roof, it has fully boarded feather board which the tiles hang off. No leaks but does smell musty in the loft so presuming the extractor will help keeping a constant airflow around the house? Many thanks

.brilliant videos like always, Your thoughts on a dry ridge system, so roof spaces can breath

Another great video from SB. Did anyone else notice that the little man stood in the house dancing about in the living room is naked! If you know what I mean? Lol

My council came 3 years ago & insulated our loft above the kitchen, signal story building & did not put a vapor barrier in. & they blocked up the soffit air vents too. when they left they told my wife we should check it every year to see if it was getting damp!

Your information is in total agreement with what the cold weather research people in Fairbanks, Ak teach. Well done.

'Challenge Roger' should be a whole new channel 😆👍

Perfect explanation Roger. We bought 1958 end terrace house with bitumen felt under concrete tiles.Previous owner never had dampness in the attic,that was only storage place thanks to little insulation on joist level....hardly 100mm.I have put another 350mm and loft legs and boarded. This winter there is lots of condensation on rafters and some black mould.. I have to mention roof is unvented. If I replace tiles,put there new breathable membrane like Tyvek and install over the fascia vents and dry vented ridge,will it solve the problem? Can I after that put some kingspan PIR between the rafters,if course keeping 40mm vent gap , to keep loft storage bit warmer?

What a video of information. Question : I live in an old house, no roof vents and the style of roof prevents facia vents, I noticed recently moisture on insulation i installed 3 years ago. Would It help by installing gable vents or vented extraction fans and if so would they both need to be extraction or would one have to be just vented for circulation? Would appreciate any advice, many thanks from Ireland

Loved this video Roger. I’m a novice DIYer having a crack at building myself a fully insulated garden gym. I’m doing cold roof given the 2.5m max height under PD makes a warm roof difficult. Everything you said reinforced what I’ve learnt from hours of scouring KZread - great to have it all in a sub30min video together. I’m coincidently fitting the VCL to the ceiling and walls this weekend.

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

If you ventilate above the insulation you will be fine

@AccountantDoesDIY

3 жыл бұрын

@@SkillBuilder yep. 6b2 rafters with 3inch to 0inch firrings on top. 4b2 noggins. 90mm PIR flush against the bottom of rafters. Min air gap of 2inches. Max air gap at end of firrings 5inches. Circular soffit vents at front and back of each rafter run. Also quite a breezy bit of the garden so reckon I’m all good. I am however guilty of the downlights :-) I’ve cut 100mm square holes in the PIR for them and pushed 40mm of PIR back into the hole to sit behind the light. Will take care to polythene tape the VCL edges around the hole into it as best I can. Suspect there will still be moisture leakage but the ventilation above the PIR should help with that anyway.

my piv in my loft to stairwell has transformed my loft , its nice and dry up there and alot fresher etc

Skill builder could you do a video on what type of vapour barrier should and shouldn’t be use on flat roof there’s loads out but I do feel the knowledge on these is very hit and miss even the building inspectors say all different things

Hi Roger. Great video thank you so much. Can you do video regarding isolating suspended floor. How to do it and what would you use to do it right. Please please please 😊 Regards Pav

Vapour migrating through the building fabric is also responsible for heat loss though it’s not a huge factor it all adds up. Great vid. So many builders get confused when it comes to vapour barriers and condensation. I’m a chippy and I’ve lost count of the times I’ve had to explain all of this to a contractor. Only thing I’m not convinced of is how often is it warmer outside the dwelling than inside. Without a/c where I live on the south coast uk I suggest it’s very rare indeed.

@danhamjam

7 ай бұрын

What about a pitched cold roof in a loft conversion? Using solid PIR between Rafters and other layer of PIR below rafters, why would you want to trap the vapour in the loft?, would you not want it to travel through the roof and out via ventilation gap in the pitched roof. I'm looking at diagrams even from Regulations stating a vapor barrier is needed even in this senario but i cant get head around it. All this PIR has foil fronts and is taped by aluminium tape, gaps filled by filler or gafo tape. Why is a vapour barrier needed in this system?

@danielbolton6354

7 ай бұрын

The PIR under the rafters is a vapour barrier when the seems are taped with foil tape.

I have a warm flat roof in my kitchen/living room. However, the room is freezing cold in winter and boiling hot in summer. I'm now adding an inverted roof above the EPDM with a living roof above that. I'm hoping the living roof will cool things down in the summer and the inverted roof (Kingspan, Greenshield, Kinspan AquaZone) will keep it all nice and toastie in the winter.

Architect here learning loads!

I recently had upvc cladding done on the soffits fascias and barge board, cracking job until I went in the loft and found it literally dripping with condensation. Bit of research and found out the continuous air gap under the soffits had been completely compramised by cladding over and replacing with 8 circle vents. Got in touch with company to rectify problem and they didn't have clue about the mm2 formula for ventilation. They eventually turned up and at my request added 32 vents in total, Problem fixed. Basically don't ever cover the soffit vents !

Now I have an image of a sweaty Roger in Lycra in my head!

@Gixer750pilot

3 жыл бұрын

Or Mrs. Bushy giving off moisture 😉

I use a dehumidifier all through the winter in the house. It runs every other day for 8 hrs. I am putting one in the loft too. This is great advice however identifying to origins of water vapour.

Thanks, another insightful video. I'm getting quotes to have my roof retiled (mid 1970s house with disintigrating felt under tiles). Current practice around here is to cover with OSB then membrane followed by tiles, with dry verge system. Only one roofer so far has pointed out the requirement for either adding some vented tiles or leaving every 3rd rafter secion without OSB. I've watched several roofs being done round here with full coverage OSB and no sight of any additional vents. What's your opinion on leaving sections of rafters without OSB.

Ventilation is key but it costs money if you have to keep the heating on. Interesting article, thanks.

@tullgutten

3 жыл бұрын

Cost less than rebuilding the house from water damadge

Great that you covered this area. My personal experience is that when you are in as much of tiny a doubt then vent… and never put outside wall dressing directly up against the wall, without a airgap, if the inside of the house is dressed with plastic because that wall will require desert climate if to ever dry up.

Great video, very informative. In winter I get lots of condensation in my attic (crappy 1903 terraced). The “felt” is a grey rubbery/plastic material, definitely non breathable. There are 3 roof vents already in & when I had plastic soffit & fascia board capping done the builder inserted vents about 12” apart, probably 15 in total. Because of the layout they are only on one side. Didn’t improve things so I’ve tried installing 20 odd felt lap vents but still no appreciable improvement I am topping up loft insulation (adding 200mm to the existing 170ish) & adding loft legs & loft boards as & when I can afford it (it’s a large area) but am now concerned that this may add to the problem? There seems to be a suggestion that more insulation causes it’s own problems. Do I need to take it all out & put a vapour barrier in? I have been seriously tempted to just cut the felt to somehow get more air flow into the attic. My old house had a thin layer of polystyrene bead insulation, no roof felt at all……. & no damp problems 🙄

This is the first time I've even considered condensation in the wall from air conditioning in summer.

Thanks Roger! I have this issue on one side of my loft funnily enough the side with the vent!

@SkillBuilder

3 жыл бұрын

Alistaire Cook It will be the North facing side of the roof. I miss your Letters From American. I am a huge fan of your work.

@alistairecook4606

3 жыл бұрын

@@SkillBuilder You are 100% corrrect it is the North facing side. Unfortunately I'm not the Alistaire Cook your thinking of 🤣🤣🤣 or even the Cricketer.

This is exactly my situation. I’m in the top floor of a housing association flat. They own the roofing space and put down plastic sheeting. But moisture forms at the edges on the inside of the bedrooms and runs down the light fixtures. They’ve stopped doing repairs for leaseholders. They’re knocking all the flats down and putting us all back in new ones. I feel like the best solution is to avoid living below a roofing space forever 😔