You’re missing the large washer that sits between the oiler gear and the clutch. That’s why it is hitting.

@62impalaconvert

Жыл бұрын

My 025 (bought used 15 years ago) doesn't have the large black plastic washer (part # 11211621001) under the clutch either. I've used the saw all these years with no apparent wear and no problem like Larry has. Was it installed on all these saws from the factory and is it really needed? PS I just recently found out about the existence of this washer

@larryreno8293

Жыл бұрын

@@62impalaconvert the washer is metal and I believe it has a dual purpose. I believe it is a heat shield and a debris shield for the oil pump drive.

Hello Larry. I have (or should say had) a Stihl 021 chainsaw with the identical fault. Your description of the problem, explanation of what various parts do, showing how to disassemble and reassemble the chainsaw was great and enabled me to fix mine. Many thanks for your most helpful video. Cheers from Australia

I use white lithium on the worm gear, inside and outside. I just hit the clutch a couple of raps with my impact in reverse. I want it down just enough to get the E clip on the end of the crank. If you rotate the sprocket one full Revolution it should engage the worm gear. If you cannot get the E clip on rotate the sprocket until the notch in the sprocket drops down on the worm gear arm. You should then be able to get the E clip on the end of the crank.

Gr8 video Scrap metal put a hole in my plastic housing as well. You made me stop and think and find my ultimate problem Waiting fir epoxy to cure as we speak

Larry, you need to see me reply to Magic One below, which will explain why the clutch wore a hole in the oil tank. MISSING CLUTCH COVER WASHER, WHICH WHEN YOU TOOK SAW APART WASN'T THERE!! THUS, WHILE YOU REPAIRED THE LEAK, YOU DIDN'T INSTALL THE CLUTCH COVER WASHER BECAUSE YOU WERE UNAWARE THAT YOU EVEN NEEDED ONE. TRUST ME, LEAK WILL BE BACK UNLESS YOU INSTALL THE CLUTCH COVER WASHER!!

@tdmmcl1532

3 жыл бұрын

@Jim Eastwood: YES! You are absolutely correct. The clutch cover is essential. It provides not merely dust and contamination barrier to the clutch and oil worm gear and oiler gear (too much clutch dust combined with oil and fine metal dust wrecks havoc on these parts)...BUT this clutch cover when installed provides the proper standoff distance between the edge of the clutch drum and the housing and parts below it. This is true for almost all chainsaws from stihil. The clutch cover MUST BE INSTALLED. While this may not be obvious that clutch cover also provides the correct "height" distance for proper chain sprocket that is stacked atop the clutch. Over time, without that clutch cover/SPACER, the chain sprocket NOT being correctly distanced to the chain will tend to bear a load further to the OUTBOARD side of the spline/sprocket teeth. One has to understand the basic concept of hip bone connected to the knee bone, connected to the ankle bone type of reasoning. The more forces toward the end of the outboard side of the crank acts like a lever. And at the RPMS multiplied by the power these machines generate, even a single millimeter can be the difference between a long lasting crank bearing, and one that will go toast in rapid order! That slight "off balance" load toward the end of the sprocket teeth PUTS an abnormal amount of load and wear on guess what? the clutch side bearing at the lower crank. Guess which side of the crank bearing housing tends to fail for these chainsaws? Yup! The clutch side. We see this failure all the time with these chainsaws. It really is alot of force to deal with on that side (clutch side). That spinning clutch and clutch drum PLUS the loads that are exerted on them from the chain under load is not trivial. So when that seemingly unimportant spacer is not installed, this creates not just a clearance issue for the bits below it, but it also radically changes the load dynamics onto the crank and thus that bearing take s a beating over time. The other side (pull starter side), does NOT get anywhere close to the force loads and that side will hardly ever fail unless there is some manufacturing defects or poor quality control in manufactuing or assembly (which is exceedingly rare for stihle and husky...btw). So YES, you have a good eye for what the ROOT CAUSE of this problem. GOOD CATCH! Other notes: IN ALL LIKELIHOOD, when the clutch was impact torgued down without the Clutch Cover (aka, also a spacer in function), the clutch cover was forced well below the normal threads of the crank. Those threads are only manufactured to a certain distance to allow for the clutch cover. But WITH ENOUGH force, one can probably carry that clutch below the last threads and bam...now you have a clutch that is going to hit the structure below ...while under load, things flex...especially the clutch drum.! Once the needle bearing begin to get sloppy (they all do over time), that clutch drum moves even more! .if it's an old saw with lots of hours, probably quite a bit of movement. And if you are really hogging the machine, even more. I just wanted to add a bit more details from experience about other reasons for the engineering and proper installation of that innocent looking clutch "dust" cover and why it is critically important to be installed and to be installed right side up! (it's cupped for a reason too!) I Hope this helps other folks who do repairs.

@GeoffiNaw

Жыл бұрын

Some older ones (like mine) do not come with the washer from the factory

Isn't there supposed to be a enlarged washer between the clutch and pinion drive gear?

@jimmy6501

3 жыл бұрын

YES! The fact that there was no clutch cover washer in the saw is why the clutch wore the hole in the oil tank housing. The p/n for the washer for an 025 is 1121 162 1001. Having worked on hundreds of saws, I find problems like this all the time - you take apart the saw and if assume that all the parts you take out are the only parts you need to repair the saw, you would be wrong quite often. I have taken apart saws that didn't even have the worm gear, and in many cases were also missing the clutch cover washer. If you don't know the history of the saw, or who worked on it, NEVER assume anything!!!! Otherwise, a great video that needs to be either taken off you tube or corrected.

You do want to use the 025 oil pump, because the MS 250 oil pump is a low capacity oil pump and the 025 oil pump is a high capacity oil pump. They are identical, otherwise.

Good video, and explained very well in detail! Good job!

Glad I found your vid. My 025 has/had😉 this exact issue.

I would put the old pump back in but not all the way,as to close up the hole. Clean area around hole with a solvent, put some grease over the hole/pump very lightly and then apply a thin coating of epoxy/sealant. Once dry remove old pump and replace with new inserting it all the way. Probably using old pump would be ok.

I find it interesting that my Stihl 025 (it's def an 025 circa 1999) looks quite a bit different compared to yours under the clutch plate. I find that I'm getting oil out of the oil outlet but very little making it onto the chain. I end up with black oil dripping from the bottom of the chainsaw. Bar groves are clean and have been blown out with compressed air. I have what looks like a pit in the plastic instead of the piece flipped up like you have but I still cannot tell if this pit should be there or was formed.

thx Larry great vid. im going to open my Stihl up on the weekend and see why im not getting oil. thx again

@DownsizingMakesCents

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jamie I’m glad the video helped. We are full time Rvers now but our dream is to make it to Australia someday. Larry

Great video, thanks for uploading.

@jackroberts7585

5 жыл бұрын

Same here, thank you.

Nice informative video. Thanks

Thanks

Good work

Saw is still going strong, I originally tore it down because the chain was not getting adequate oil, kept getting hot because of lack of oil. I’m not sure about the gasket, I either replaced or reinstalled all the parts I took out.

@soniczoo

4 жыл бұрын

So why the glue and gap?

@TimLPINE

4 жыл бұрын

@@soniczoo The gap was likely caused by the lack of the plate/washer that separates the clutch from the worm drive for the oil pump. The edge of the clutch bell/sprocket wore into the plastic and melted it away. That plate/washer says TOP on the side that faces up. if you go to parts diagram he has at the end of the vid it's called a cover washer (5 on the part list). He'll need to put one in soon or the hole will form again. Otherwise pretty good vid.

Sir, you forgot to install the washer prior to installing the clutch. Has the word Top on it.

@TimLPINE

4 жыл бұрын

Can confirm; or put it back in wrong side up. It creates space for the worm drive.

@D70340

Жыл бұрын

Some of the earlier 025`s didn`t come with the washer.

Thank you! I believe I have the same problem, and this may have saved me from replacing a lot of parts unnecessarily. Question: Are you able to replace the oil pump still (if it ever needs it)? It looks like you glued it in there tightly.

@PonyOnMyBoat

4 жыл бұрын

For mine, I found a drill bit the size of the oil pump hole. I coated it with lithium grease hoping the glue doesn’t stick to it. Used the same glue as you, so I’ll know in 24-72 hours if this worked for me.

Larry, what was a the symptom before that your repair was to fix? I have the same saw. My blade gets plenty of oil. However I have excess oil in the bottom of the plastic carry case. What does that indicate?

Great video - what is the part 3639 005 0068 ? Not sure what the part name is but it's not listed in the parts manual - thank you.

They call that E clip - the Jesus clip because that is what you say when it goes flying. I never remove one without having a new one handy. I cannot count how many of these I have lost- they just go flying. I guess I loose about 50% of them, even though I try to hold them down when I remove them. I later find about50% of those that went flying, making my total loss about 25%- 1 in four. I keep an extra one because it may be several days between the day I loose it and find it.😊

Hey Larry, real nice video here! I'm about to tear into my own 025 to fix an oil leak, and I think this will help. I especially like your clear explanation of how the whole system works. I'm curious about a couple of things... What problem(s) were you trying to fix when you first started opening up your saw? Just not getting oil to the chain, or were there any leaks? Also, I didn't see you remove or replace the big washer that goes behind the clutch (part #5 on your second diagram at the end), is yours missing? And the fuel vent should have a couple of very small screws inside, one at the top and another near the bottom, did your new vent come with these? And finally, how's the saw working now, and is your plastic repair holding up so far?

@turbobricksofficial

4 жыл бұрын

missing washer: maybe why the bell ate into the plastic in the first place?

@D70340

Жыл бұрын

@@turbobricksofficial My 025 never came with the big washer behind the clutch. When i tear my saw down to replace the leaking oil tank hose & o-ring, i`ll be installing the washer behind the clutch. I think alot of these 025`s left the Stihl factory without that big washer behind the clutch, hence why its eating into the case when the clutch and bearing get badly worn out.

Oil 15 40 ????

almost looks like drive for oil was not in notch and was rubbing on housing to wear it all down

@D70340

Жыл бұрын

Impossible. The worm drive wire would have been destroyed. Clearly this one was not. UNLESS, someone had been inside of it before and replaced the worm drive wire previously.