I like it how when you look "sprezzatura" up on the internet, they show you pictures of the total opposite of what that term means. Sprezzatura does not equal loud, colorful and flamboyant. Edit: Just finished watching the whole video. Ash, I would say you are the very definition of Sprezzatura, because you are stylish but *you make it look easy!* That's the essence (in my opinion) of what that concept really means. Not dressing like a freaking clown, with neon colors, hah! Good video, sir!

@DonCE0

2 жыл бұрын

I thought that also when I googled the term then compared it against the images.

It'sabout simplicity, elegance and trying not too hard. in other wordsShowing your essence through carefully put together style.

@cbrogers4614

2 жыл бұрын

Love it… elegance and simplicity.

Finally the voice of reason concerning the infamous 'buzz' word sprezzatura ! I believe you are correct in interpreting it as an individual's subtle variances of style rather than the peacocks of the 'Pitti Uomo' flock who frankly I believe to be many times ridiculous! You're quite right in advising 'caution' in trying too hard to interpret the term and ending up looking like a, well you said it, clown without the balloons ! Carry on , Mr. Bond.

I like incorporating a few spezzatura elements into my wardrobe. A signature of mine is leaving the cuffs of my barrel-cuff shirts unbuttoned. I can occasionally like one of those floppy pocket square folds. I tend to tilt my boater hat and fedoras, and actually like the look of the longer-back-blade-d tie. On a smaller scale, spezzatura has been implimented into menswear even amongst traditionalists. For example, avoiding overly-perfect looking ties by adding dimples and skipping pre-tied bow ties, or leaving bottom buttons unfastened. I don't really get the idea of looking like you don't care about your appearance. There's this whole, to me, silly notion in menswear of "trying too hard". Imagine if that was a mindset in the workplace! "Mr. Dillans, I have to talk to you about something." "Yes, sir?" "You just give off the vibe that you care a lot about your job and put in a lot of effort." "Thank you, sir!" "You're fired." Or: "Honey, there's an issue we need to discuss." "Yes darling?" "Our relationship just isn't working out." "Why?!" "You obviously put in a lot of time and energy into this relationship. Your things are packed in the bedroom." As silly as all that sounds, the idea of trying too hard in menswear is equally silly to me. It's like one should be ashamed of having high standards!

The sign of an Uber Chap is dressing immaculately in the highest recorded temperatures the UK has ever known. Respect to you sir. 🌞

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for that

Once again I find myself enlightened and informed as I continue my men's fashion nirvana journey when it comes to sprezzatura it appears to me to be an oxymoron because men who try to craft this look always seem to try exceptionally hard to look as if their look is effortless in this matter I feel less is more those minor finishing touches such as accessories can do volumes to express sprezzatura without really trying to pull off that image thanks again for another fine video

I think it just keeps what is a very simple style fresh and gives the individual a little nuance. Saying that it has to seem effortless and not forced or copied. Great video as always.

My sartorial goals are to always look and feel elegant with less effort over time. I believe one exudes the style and ease of sprezzatura when they are comfortable with themselves.

Good morning Ash, Great insights from you into the subject. If I may add my own opinion - for me, Sprezzatura is always more of a style element than a fashion. Sprezzatura takes time and thought to look effortless. Rather than wearing screaming colours or the watch over the shirt collar or two different coloured socks, Sprezzatura for me is always the ability to move effortlessly in an elegant outfit in any situation in life. And actually, you're the best example of that: whether you're wearing a print or a sports jacket or an Oak Lodge outfit, it always comes across as natural and effortless.

@themoderndandy713

2 жыл бұрын

Excellent point! It's possible that your outlook on spezzatura may be the only right one. I think of Fred Astaire. "He could wear the uniform of the upper class when the need called for it, but it’s ironic that the man some associated with the top hat and tails is really the one who popularized the sports jacket and soft lounge suit. Astaire wore white ties and tails as though they were pajamas, and a tuxedo as though it were a part of his everyday routine... It was not supposed to look perfect, it was supposed to look natural. It worked then, and it works now. It’s what genius and style are all about. " To put in excessive care into these details isn't all that effortless. It obviously took effort to put on those twelve bracelets and fit that watch over your shirt! Certainly, the man who wears full white tie and tails, but wears it comfortably and nonchalantly, like it's nothing more than a pair of trousers and a jacket, will come off as far more "spezzatura" than the average Pitti-er.

Enjoyed the video Ash. The irony of the spezzatura look is, that the men who employ it have probably put more time, effort and thought into trying to appear nonchalant, than the man who has a suit hanging in the wardrobe ready to be worn...

@williamcoolidge9884

2 жыл бұрын

Which in my opinion makes them a phony.

I think it's about understating. Totally agree with you. The king of this kind of dressing is David Prince of Wales.

Karl Lagerfeld often specialized in Sprezzatura. He would intentionally wear his tie clip at 45 degrees. He would wear Ralph Lauren ties, looking fantastic was his image, then would inject some sprezzatura thru his tie clip. He was famous for this

Can you please write a book Ash? Better still books plural. A memoir then a style guide. Army and police days alone would no doubt fill many pages. Only hardback mind. You're too classy for paperback. 😎 PS, a pocket square holder? I love it!

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

Now that is a good idea - they say everyone has a book in them somewhere. Remarkably I once attended a house party in Germany (1990s) where one of the other guests was a self-declared clairvoyant. The lady in question approached me during the evening (at a point where all the guests were still fully clothed) and told me she sensed some things about me. She eventually told me that I would write a book and live in a cabin in Canada at some point in my life. I have occasionally spent times in cabins in Canada over the years - so perhaps the foretelling of a book may be true too!

@Charlie_Duz

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheChapsGuide You see? One paragraph and we're hooked? You must put fountain pen to quality paper. I can feel the vibrations and they're favourable. Actually that might be the pipes.👻

I am more conservative . I try following rules and feel good with it. Spezzatura is for me to avanguardist and too " trying to be cool '. Everyone his own and maybe it has to do with age. BTW thank you for liking my birthplace Montreal. Yes its cold but even that has changed. When I was a kid -40C I experienced with frozen water pipes in the morning. And I used to ski as well in the Laurentides on Mt. Tremblant. Best time to go there is September during Indian summer.

I agree with the point that nowadays, sprezzatura seems very much to be an affectation and can be seen to be so, which is a shame as it can be used to great effect if it's subtle. Personally, it's not something I adhere to, it's just not my style, but it can look great.

Good advice!

I enjoyed this 👍

The "peacocks" on Instagram are not sprezzatura. In the 18th-19th century they would be called "macaronis" or "dandies". Sprezzatura should be subtle.

Hi Ash, my only spezzatura is wearing what I call trendy socks ie Paul smith signature striped sock I just love them ,tha ks again for a great video Ash .

great video! i am pretty conservative dressed- but have a "sprezzatura" by my fully tattooed skin. i love the contrast! thats why i always choose non patternd shirts or oder materials. i am patterned enough! 😂 i will send you some pictures in thenear future- and i m really nosey what you think about it.

Heck yes, Montreal!

Actually its more of a manufactured, aesthetic nonchalant. Thus its very well-planned and intentional, but made to look as though it was thrown together. I do like some elements of the ideal, though going full-blown simply insists upon itself. I think its a good vehicle for showing a bit of individuality and way to step out from the herd. My sprezzatura signature is to wear both a pocket-watch and a wrist watch. It expresses my belief that watches are now just jewelry since the invention of smart phones, but looks thrown together like I forgot i was already wearing a watch. And yes, I wear colorful socks with a break that allows them to be seen.

Thank you sir for a timely video. In the modern age spezzatura is dressing with conservative style. By portraying conservative style you are automatically different and stand out in my opinion. Cheers!

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

My pleasure

If someone looks like they tried too hard then they failed at sprezzatura, since the very definition is to make it look effortless. Also, the fact that you have a holder for your pocket square at 8:11 does not go against the principle. The original definition was to make things look effortless, even if great effort has been put in behind the scenes.

Good video, sir.

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Yet another informative video on style. Could you give me any advice on taking care of suede boots i have been through your playlist of footwear upkeep and i have not found anything on this topic regards

The idea of “studied nonchalance” strikes me as an oxymoron, much like “Soviet democracy” or “jumbo shrimp.” Why would someone spend hours trying to make himself look like The Joker, without the makeup?

@danielschaeffer1294

2 жыл бұрын

@@jonstern7511 In a previous post here I suggested that you can increase your chappishness by dressing one step above your surroundings. To practice sprezzatura without looking like a ninny just reverse the process. When everyone else is wearing a suit, wear a herringbone jacket, for example.

@themoderndandy713

2 жыл бұрын

@@danielschaeffer1294 And in the ninety percent of cases that everyone's in athleisurewear, just go in your boxers!

@danielschaeffer1294

2 жыл бұрын

@@themoderndandy713 I’d take you up on that, but I’ve always been embarrassed by my scrawny old legs.

Haha I’ve come here coz someone told me I dress like this and I didn’t know what it meant, but I can justify myself. I don’t always have time or don’t know how to do certain stuff. I often wear a flat cap to hide my Afro hair when I can’t be bothered to style it, wear a waistcoat to hide a wrinkled tshirt and unbutton my top shirt if I’m wearing a tie coz I’ve got a fat neck and yet somehow people say I dress well but I just think it’s different style

Sprezzatura is not for me I'm a bit too conservative. But it does look good on some as long as it's not over done. I'm not a fan of the fashion of wearing a half-dozen brackets eather. I do like to spruce it up with a fancy pocket square or a lapel pin. Today's outfit is pink and white sersucker shirt tan chinos and Clarke's desert boot with my Panama straw hat. Wish it was nice here like where you live so I could wear a linen jacket. 94 degrees today. Looking sharp Ash! Cheers Ron

Any chance of an input regarding that pocket square holder? Thanks

I agree...these guys are REALLLLLLLYYYYYY TRYING....to the point of NOT being Sprezzatura........just an exageration of what they claim to not do......

I agree with you, Ash. A bright yellow suit? A scream for attention. And a lot of the other things that are off the scale. I am not comfortable getting too far out of the conservative realm. No purple sports jackets.

For me it's also about combining lots of differnt colours and patterns plus accessories. To show that you can play your style game at high stakes, you know what you're doing. Maybe the ability to just tie your tie without a mirror, and more importantly, without a youtube-tutorial. To put together a non-trivial outfit without having to look into a style-rulebook. Having style in your gut feeling. Balance your outfit, not like a stiff square, and not like an attention-seeking clown.

@themoderndandy713

2 жыл бұрын

Too many people preach the value of understatement. Boring will never be elegant. Boring will always just be boring. True style is a natural thing. You can learn all the rules, and still put together sub-par outfits. Of course, too many patterns can be an eyesore. I have to say, though, we're in an age of this minimalistic nonsense. I see far more men with bleakly bland outfits than excessive ones.

I would put forward that the cravat and a pocket square is very spezzatura ?

I think spezzatura is about perceived virtuosity. It's like a musician who has practiced so much they can concentrate on everything except the instrument while they play. It's the painting that is seemingly made up of a few hurried brush strokes but also perfectly captures the subject. It's the endlessly rehearsed public speech that appears off-the-cuff and conversational. To me spezzatura is about appearing to be stylish without even trying. The lack of effort is communicated with the element that is "off," and like all the other examples, the nonchalance has endless hours of effort behind it.

Would love to see a tutorial from you of how you tie your ties somewhen (a lost art). Best regards

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

Great suggestion!

I am of the same mindset as you Ash, I've tried this concept and I just can't do it, ill feel like a man that wears crocs with white athletic socks for their everyday shoe. Yes it is that bad for me.

It’s not the right concept for me: ‘style though elegance, not convention,’ perhaps? Excellent article, Ash. And the jacket you are wearing is exactly what I’m looking for - would you be kind enough to let me/us know here you bought it?

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

It’s a simple cotton jacket I picked up from eBay. Paid £3 in an auction it is unworn and came from the UK Next store.

perhaps sprezzatura is more nuanced than we think. more effortless than i dont give a damn.

Hi Ash, I'm inclined to agree with you. It's all about trying a bit too hard if you take it too far. I like your suggestion of the pocket square to break the line, and perhaps the coloured socks, but if one is trying to be an intentionally well dressed man that's probably where the line should be drawn. Otherwise one succeeds in being a well dressed prat. Stick to your guns mate ! Cheers! Phil👍

I'm not Italian, but certain it's pronounced spre-tzatoura and roll the R

Italian men are damnably elegant, aren't they? Don't get me wrong - I'm 120% hetro. But I've always had a certain admiration for the Italian male (as well as the Italian female😛) I remember hearing that the AP Royal Oak only did well in Italy back in the 1970s when it was first introduced. It took the rest of the world decades to catch up!

Maybe Borris was an example of sprezzatura?

@TheChapsGuide

Жыл бұрын

To the extreme!

@TheChapsGuide

Жыл бұрын

To the extreme!

In my opinion the epitome of Prezzatura was Sonny Crockett. Now hear me out on this one. Micheal Mann, the director of Miami Vice, envisioned a beach bump cop, living on a yacht and doing the least amount of effort to look good. All this while wearing linen Versace suits and Armani loafers. The wardrobe director kept his Henley t-shirts on a pile on the ground in the studio so they would have the perfect wrinkle and it would look like Sonny just picked up the cleanest thing that he could find in the morning. (this is all told in the making of of Miami Vice, which can be found here on KZread kzread.info/dash/bejne/dmurj5qvkcS0pbQ.html)

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

I just watched the video you suggested and it propelled me back to my childhood and the hero-worship we had in the 80's for Sonny Crockett and his sprezzatura style (albeit highly contrived). Many thanks for the link - loved it!

@pasquale78

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheChapsGuide Glad you liked it! Cheers!

@viclucyzia

2 жыл бұрын

I did everything to follow his style. Good memories. But those were the late teen years. Now with age taste changes. Pastel colours suits are not anymore for me.

@pasquale78

2 жыл бұрын

@@viclucyzia I agree. It sure was fun, but we can maintain the mentality of studied casualness, as they call it.

Real sprezzatura would be more like street chic stuff

I would like to know your thoughts on wearing bowties.

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

Sadly bowties are not part of my ensemble and consequently I have no skills in hand-tying them. I do need to rectify this shortfall very soon.

@louisbonomo3025

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Looking forward to the day when you have an informed opinion on this matter.

I personally think the best man to carry out sprezzatura in history was JFK, despite the fact that his name usually doesn't associate with this concept. If you look at his pictures, it didn't look like he was a man trying too hard at his attire, after all as a politician in the US it is counterproductive to appear as if you're vain about your looks. And yet his clothes were simple, elegant, effortless. You know he paid attention to his clothes, one just doesn't look like that without spending time on one's clothes.

Respectfully I kinda disagree with this analysis 🙂 at least to me sprezzatura isn’t about adding some flash of personality, but on the contrary to look unfussy. Dressing simple can for me definitely still embody the idea of sprezzatura as the idea is that you don’t look like you have put on a lot of effort but that you naturally just look very elegant. Personally I think that sprezzatura often requires that your clothes look 1) unfussy 2) lived in (shouldn’t necessarily look too “perfect”) 3) fit the occasion (dress social intelligently) So to me it isn’t about looking like you don’t care about how you are dressed, but that you just looked natural and at easy in what you wear so I guess that many well dressed men, that feel confident in what they wear, “practice” sprezzatura 🙂👍

Ah Spezzatura... something I honestly ever only incorporate very mild elements. Granted, I'm not former military (something similar though...) but I'm certainly inclined to display less of a contrived impression of don`t giving a damn because that is already done by the general public in a disgusting casualized way (as if athleisure wasn't bad enough already, no of course it also doesn't need to be even remotely colour coordinated... welcome to Offenbach...). I prefer to give a "correctly" dressed impression - maybe if you regard a three stairs fold of a fittingly coloured pocket square or wearing an informal Ascot in summer, "broken up" though still colour coordinated suits or a tendency never to wear normal silk ties but knitted ties and *formal* Ascots with tie pins as sufficiently breaking the norms of the corporate suit (which thankfully doesn't concern me anyway), then yeah, maybe I do a bit of Spezzatura, but limited and in small doses, much like you Mr. Jones - I *can* break from the norms but always in ways and patterns that move along the lines of either "vintage" look (not "cosplay", mind) or just locked in the more colourful past of the interbellum, never intentionally weird for the sake of not fitting in - that's more of a thing for the Joker 🤣. Best regards Raoul G. Kunz

As an Italian gentleman and avid viewer of your channel, I feel compelled to weigh in on the matter because I find that the concept of sprezzatura has been misunderstood here. It seems to me that in your idea of sprezzatura there is primarily that festive spectacle that Pitti Uomo in Florence has become: Pitti, however, represents exactly what sprezzatura is not. Messer Castiglione writes (quoting from memory): 'It is necessary to place a certain sprezzatura in all things so that what one does appears natural and accomplished without effort”. There is no reason that, to apply this concept, someone should put together shiny colors and unusual combinations. On the contrary, sprezzatura teaches us to be stylistically perfect (because the idea of being consciously elegant is obviously at the heart of the matter) without giving the impression of being too perfect. Sprezzatura, applied to clothing, is the antidote to banality, conformity, not a license to show all kinds of eccentricities (as happens at Pitti). Sprezzatura, moreover, is not only applied to clothing but to everything in life. Take, for example, the British myth James Bond: he can run, jump, shoot, pilot helicopters and planes, speak many languages, play poker, and a lot of other things, but in his stories, there is no trace of training or study. He has a beautiful physique, yet claims to follow a diet that would kill anyone from liver cirrhosis after a few months. This is the typical example of sprezzatura. He is a champion at everything he does, but he does it effortlessly, naturally, as if he were born for it. The man who applies sprezzatura to his elegance is exactly like this: perfect to the last detail but makes it seem that this perfection has cost him no effort, like he has pulled out the first things he found from the wardrobe, and the outcame is natural perfection. Greetings from Italy.

@TheChapsGuide

7 ай бұрын

Thank you for your observations sir, I definitely see your point.

I think "sprezzatura" looks sloppy at best and at worst trying too hard to be original. I can't see the "coolness" in wearing your wrist watch over your shirt sleeve - and I suppose it's only done because Gianni Agnelli did it. And I don't see the nonchanlance in unbuttoning your button down shirt, in wearing your back tie blade longer than your front one or in wearing mountain boots with your suit. It's simply crying out for attention. But the more people do it, the more it will become its own kind of conformity and so the people at "Pitti Uomo" look like modern day peacocks.

@TheChapsGuide

2 жыл бұрын

I agree - the sprezz crowd are the modern 'victims of fashion'

@viclucyzia

2 жыл бұрын

I agree Sir.

@iansoutryer3189

2 жыл бұрын

@@viclucyzia Thanks 😊

@themoderndandy713

2 жыл бұрын

I think it's alright in small doses. I often leave my barrel-cuffs undone, and occasionally my back blades longer. I tilt my hats often, too. It's the same reason we put dimples in ties, tie our own bow ties, fold our own pocket squares, and so on. There is such a thing as looking "too perfect". The outfit becomes sterile, like it's from a lab. That's not to say I support outfits with thirty bracelets, capris, and unbuttoned shirts. Having small elements of spezzatura, to me, makes you look at home in your clothes. Not too lazy, but also not obsessive and perfectionistic. I also wouldn't say it's screaming for attention. If you're wearing a suit beyond plain solids with plain ties and a white shirt, you're already going to stand out. A longer back blade probably isn't going to do much more harm to the outfit.

@viclucyzia

2 жыл бұрын

@@themoderndandy713 Agree fully to your point of view.

I dislike sprezzatura greatly. Taking great care to make it look like you're not taking great care with respect to your attire and appearance is being a phony.

The closest I come to sprezzatura Is leaving the top button on my waistcoat unbuttoned therefore exposing more of the tie and I keep the bottom button of the waistcoat buttoned’ also at times I do not button my double breasted blazer’ Thank you