*A Guide To Moisture Management For Residential Remodels eBook:* asiri-designs.com/shop/ols/products/moisture-management-for-residential-remodels

@tomvallee1768

28 күн бұрын

I see the note that this is a book on northeastern design. Is there a comparable guide to southern design?

I had no idea that this topic was so complex... I always assumed that more insulation was a good thing! I hope homeowners are aware of these risks...

@ASIRIDesigns

Ай бұрын

Thanks for watching, I'm glad I could raise some awareness about this issue! It's definitely a more complex topic than what most people realize.

@CMCraftsman

Ай бұрын

Most aren’t aware. Most builders aren’t aware either. As materials and methods of construction change, builder education is more important than ever. Videos like this should be required to watch as part of getting a contractors license but unfortunately here in VT….. there is NO contractor’s license 😫

I'm a practicing architect in NY and MA, but completed my graduate studies in Oregon (UO). I've been following your videos on Instagram, and now I'm watching the youtube videos too. Your presentations are clear, thorough, and you get straight to the point. And your graphic representation skills are great. I'm heading over to your website to grab the Moisture Management and Flat Roofs detail e-books. Great job, very well done.

Your videos are the best! I spent the past several years studying this after I was introduced to it in undergrad. Great job explaining it.

This is a topic "close to home" for me! A fixer-upper allegedly built in 1950 in NW Florida, I have found a multitude of issues. Two different building styles, one is well built and uses reclaimed lumber, the other is unbelievably deficient. I suspect an amateur enlarged the house at some point. No insulation, of course, and the tar-paper in the walls has crumbled away in numerous places. I think this is what was called "balloon framing," with air moving through the walls from the crawlspace up to the attic. Once I finish attic remediation, I plan to install a radiant barrier and have insulation blown in or else lay batts. The heat radiating down from the 9.5 ft. ceiling during summer is significant. The sun transmits energy through mainly two sides of the house in a similar way. I've been installing 2 inches of rigid foam panels with a radiant barrier and then a rain-screen with new siding. The walls will continue to move air on the inside, but hopefully this strategy will improve interior comfort level.

@ThePTBRULES

Ай бұрын

Balloon framing fell out of fashion by 1920. Western/Platform framing is generally better, but there is nothing bad about Balloon house other than needing fire blocks to prevent fire from spreading rapidly upward.

@misterlyle.

Ай бұрын

@@ThePTBRULES Thank you for the reply, and the note about fire blocking. An engineer (or other inspector) suggested the house may have been moved from another location, suggesting that the better framing might be older than 1950. I have discovered horizontal and diagonal framing in some places, along with horizontal furring as well as some beadboard under the drywall. I have attempted to block off the openings at the bottom of the walls to keep _rats_ out of the cavities (and attic), but there is apparently still plenty of air flow. This is Florida, so humid air is the standard usually. According to Asiri Designs' research, that means I regularly have gallons of water moving up and out through the attic. The good thing about this old house, there is no evidence of condensation rot.

Excellent information, thank you for sharing!!!

Thanks for the new content! I bought your book and subbed you. Keep it coming!

@ASIRIDesigns

Ай бұрын

Thanks so much for watching and for your book purchase!

I do enjoy your videos but I am not able to work with the guides on my own. I am interested in am independent home energy audit and I wonder what you think of those services, their certifications, pitfalls of energy audits (EX:window company and therefor not independent), and just your general thoughts on how to get started on remodels for energy efficiency for those without the trades or home design experience to DIY these projects? I have a history of industrial drafting work, so that's where my affinity for your videos comes from. Though drafting the home I live in or trying to implement details and designs from your guides would most likely lead me into a quagmire of pitfalls and easy to avoid mistakes if I stay on the professional side. I don't think I should DIY something like this and would love to know your thoughts.

Ah, good to know! Since I live in the warm and dry part of the west coast where moisture is rarely an issue, I can insulate as much as I want.

I’m remodeling a 124 year old farmhouse in Illinois… what do i use for insulation?

Interesting tradeoff for older buildings. Insulation is not a panacea. How do you model flow of moisture and heat flow to make the right decisions?

@ASIRIDesigns

Ай бұрын

It's nearly impossible to accurately model moisture flow in an existing building, since these programs cannot take into account complex variables like air leakage and convective looping. Taking moisture content readings moisture monitoring is one of the better ways that we can assess conditions, but a lot of it is judgement based on the basic fundamentals (i.e. where is the source of moisture? which side of the building is warm/cold? Is there evidence of staining? etc.)

@rheuss1

Ай бұрын

Older buildings need to breath to live. Breathing means drying, so they should not be tightened up so that they can’t dry out.

i saw a youtube video from an australian builder that didn't put a vapor barrier in his crawlspace, but he said it was fine because he used engineered lumber ... is that an acceptable solution?

@ThePTBRULES

Ай бұрын

No, that's stupid if it's a new build. Wood is wood.

To everyone reading this, people we're stupid when they built most of these old buildings, but they different constrictions, benefits, needs and technology than today. They would build in similar ways we do today, especially if some of our tools and technology was available. Examples would be: Taller ceilings and transom windows allowed for lower temperatures in summer, while coal was cheap for heating in the winter. - Labor was cheaper, and there were many masons available than today. -Old growth lumber is far superior than box store wood. - House were built more dense for larger families, different rooms were for different social events. Technically; house warps wouldn't become a thing until tar paper in the 1920s or 30s, and insulation like fiberglass was far far away.

Instal recuperator. No way around in an insulated house.

Just not worth repairing old homes: Twice the work, twice the money.

i have always believed in this. I just rebuilt an older home and insulated it perfectly. one problem i believe is it is too air tight and it causes alot of moisture in the air from different styles of heat, i put in a mini split but have to run it on a special program to suck out the moisture because just one day of use it was putting mold spores all over , the windows would sweat ridiculously so i actually ended up putting a dehumidifier in to help with the moisture. Theres got to be a better way.

@larsdueck1226

Ай бұрын

You need whole house mechanical ventilation, look at HRV/ERV's.

@pauld3327

Ай бұрын

You need a few trickle vents on a few windows (bedrooms, living room...) and mechanical air extraction in other rooms (kitchen, bathroom and toilets)

@vapeurdepisse

Ай бұрын

HRV/ERV are the answer for tight homes

@bertRaven1

Ай бұрын

@@pauld3327 i know this is the suggested solution but surely the heat loss from trickle vents more than cancels out the benefits of the insulation?

@pauld3327

Ай бұрын

@@bertRaven1 Absolutely not. Your heating bill will be lower with trickle vents and mechanical ventilation because: - If humidity is too high, you need to increase the room temperature to be confortable. - Air is very easy to heat but water is hard to heat. Dry air is cheaper to heat than damp air.