Thanks for the sharing of information. I won't completely pick every detail apart like a few of the people in the comments. 1. The eye bolt for hammock. Width is never a equal or often adequate replacement for depth in framing members. I get the "old growth" logic). 2. Thermal performance. There are calculation charts for something called "Fenistration". Basically the ratio of openings (door/window) that ate permitted. This varies greatly by State. Best to check local areas to ensure the "Certification of Occupancy" if you really intend to use tiny home as a dwelling. 3. Any span over 6' requires two lap studs (minimum 3" load bearing). So you may use the hanger that is breaking the span of your roof. But, if you run into a goofy inspector you may have to do double lap studs anyway. Totally changing the interior detail that you plan. 4. Talking cripple and lap studs. Point load blocking is usually required. (great, more thermal loss) LOL 5. Floor decking. Plywood orientation. I understand your point about strength. In this small of a project it becomes a matter of choice. Mitigate the issue of floor sag by using a t&g product. 6. Treated lumber and fasteners. Use fastener rated for exterior decking and you don't have to worry about anything. There are a couple of other things that I could go into but I've already said to much. I'm sure I will get a deluge of comments disagreeing with me. HA HA. One last observation. Framing spacing. Have you heard/thought about 19◇ spacing? This spacing along with double top plate is often both cost effective and efficient. Thank you and if you would like any clarification please feel free to contact me. I'm a old broken builder with to much time on my hands. LOL 🤓

I removed my T1-11 siding and replaced with 1.5" Zip System from Huber Woods. And what a difference to keep heat in.

I build a tiny house a couple years back using an iron eagle trailer as well! I can tell you the concern for condensation around the edges of the floor on the metal flange is absolutely an issue. We’ve actually had mold start to grow behind furniture if we haven’t dried it out for a while. So yeah definitely recommend the continuous insulation as well!

@actuallytiny2537

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing this!

@covecarpentry

Жыл бұрын

What ended up being the cause of this? air leakage? was your floor and flange thermally broken?

i cant belive you only have 308 likes. you are a very good teacher. i will rewatch this video. and thanks for putting this great info out. TRUST

You explained it at my level. And, you went into details on things most gloss over. Thank you!

This is the best video I have find, when it comes to building tiny houses. I Cant wait to see the rest of the videos on this Chanel. Also thumbs up for the production quality of this video.

@kfbob364

2 жыл бұрын

If you know framing and engineering, this is not really too good for Tiny homes.

This was one of the most informative videos I have watched on framing a tiny house. Thank you!

Ive helped my siblings build a few tiny houses, and we are tall, so I often don't have a issue arguing using multiples of 4 so we have to cut less and waste less plywood. I actually only have done 8 by 16 stationary tiny houses, working on a new one for myself soon

Hey. I am planning to build a tiny house this summer. Right now I cut trees to saw my lumber. I have watched many videos now. Yours is fare the best have watched . Thank you for this information in the details.

Wow! You packed a really impressive amount of not just info, but specifically value, into this video. I've watched a LOT of tiny house content and carpentry content, and I don't often see much anymore that I haven't seen before (not that I'm an expert in real life, haven't built much yet lol just a decent expert on specifically what KZread has to offer about tiny homes) but your video brought up some really original and insightful and useful details that are hard for amateurs to stumble onto without knowing industry concepts and key terms to look up. This is stellar. Thanks for the hard work you put into this great resource!

Great video, thank you! You did a great job contextualizing your choices with/against standard construction in a way that let's the viewer see alternatives, but recognize the importance of verifying alternatives before implementing.

Great to see your thorough and detailed breakdown of this, Brian, as per your kayak builds, thank you. This is something I'm very interested in over the next few years, though getting affordable access to land etc here in Scotland and rest of UK is a major challenge that I'm not yet ready to take on. I'll look up your other resources too. Looking forward to watching the next stages and updates too.

Wow. Thank you SO much. My mechanical experience left me distrustful of traditional framing practices for a tiny trailer build. You have justified that feeling and explained ways to build better, lighter. I am working on plans for my first tiny , and have read many sites, and watched countless hours of videos. Yours is very well done. Going to your website in 3 2 1...

10:10 From what I understand, not only that, but thermal bridging is how/where the condensation forms, which leads to molding. Ideally, a tiny house (and houses in general) should be completely thermally broken, to maximize efficiency and mold-resistance.

this is instructive. many videos make me happy for the builder/owner, but leave me with more questions than answers. thanks for the detailed conceptual pathway. i build in march, and am nearly paralysed with my partial knoweldge, ambivalence in every category. thanks for being the breed of video that gives me the sort of understanding that will make or break my attemped build.

Framing your roof with 2x8 @ 24" o.c. in lieu of 2X6 @ 16" will give you a stronger framing system and a deeper cavity for insulation. Not to mention it will be a tad bit lighter as well. The downside ... you'll want to use at least 5/8" roof sheathing or better if you're not already doing so.

@jb65270

Жыл бұрын

Yes, 2x8 on 24 is a better design for a static structure, but I am concerned that it does not allow for sufficient rigidity bouncing down the road over time. Also... 5/8" sheeting... not so sure you would see much in the way of weight savings.

Great video! You do such a nice job explaining things. This is the best detail I have ever watched in a video of this type. Please keep producing these, they are greatly appreciated!!!

We went with a Iron Eagle trailer as well for our build, and yeah! 10/10 would recommend!

You definitely did an exceptional job! Some of it may be considered overkill and there was a lot I would alter to reduce weight. But there is a lot you did that I wish I had the patience to do because it looks great. This type of framework is quality and worthy of exposure. I usually keep rough framing rough framing and save the detail for finish work, but kudos.

Just found this video/your channel and it's amazing. Great explanations and visuals to accompany them. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and helping us out in our build process!

i love the way you explain things! i immediately checked to see if you had a book.

Such a practical and beautiful build, I think. I will copy a lot of it, when hopefully I'm going to start to build tiny houses.

I love the level of detail you provide. Thanks

That was bloody brilliant, cheers 🇦🇺

Thoroughly enjoyed your video. You highlight some very interesting points regarding your process which although similar to wood home framing require different enough resolutions to create the end product you desire. Good job.

Excellent video. This is my idea with what building tiny should be. Frugal, practical, simple and built to last. Consider me subscribed.

Oh my gosh this is the video I've been looking for the detail information about the construction Thank you A lot of videos just show the finish product and don't really give a lot of detail about what it takes to Really build so once again thank you so much I appreciate this video and I am a new Subscriber and will be a long time fanfan Due to being a new farm Manager pursuing my own dream Of 1 day becoming my own property manager building my own Tiny home You are truly an inspiration thank you thank you thank you

Great video! Learned many things. Love adding fun stuff. Thank You.

Im so green to this technical points so very much appreciated !

So detailed and yet easy to understand. Thankyou ❤️ from 🇦🇺 Australia

One thing I would have liked to see - a time lapse / build progress video to see the stages as you go. I am sure that there's a lot of stuff that I have seen before, but the concerns about attaching around wheel wells and a metal frame are fascinating to me, having never done anything like it before.

Thank you for this excellent video. You are a natural instructor. Informative and clear!

The 2x4s above your windows and doors should be spun vertically. Add a 1/2 piece of foam insulation between to make up thickness of the wall studs and have a thermal break.

Experience, the best teacher.

This channel is the best for beginner builders (or anybody) by a long shot. You sir, do a marvelous job explaining all the little details you put in and why you do it. Thankyou so much!

@lance3883

Жыл бұрын

Lmao

Excellent video, learned a lot from your little detours on general construction principles. Thank a lot for sharing.

Damn good video! I look forward to seeing more of your videos in the imminent future.

Wow. Dude you're a legend.

Master of your craft! Great video

Awesome video, thanks for putting it together! Very informative!! 😃👌

Again, thank you very much for the information.

I've learned so much from this one video. Holy smokes, thank you!

Fantastic work and great explanation.

Enjoying your videos! Thanks for the detailed info 🙂 about to subscribe to learn more!

Super useful info. Information overload for tonight. Bedtime soon.....

Kudos, You're fantastic. KZread is such a fountain of knowledge ready to be consumed.

@mikey955

3 жыл бұрын

Dear Sir, very informative, and well done! One question, and one comment...Why not use 4" -5" of foam in ceiling? The cost factor? And, from an old logger in the Pacific Northwest, Douglas Fir, Red Fir, and Second Growth, all refer to the same species. Old Growth, is also called Yellow Fir, because the heartwood is yellowish, not red, like Douglas Fir is. THANK YOU Sir for your excellent ideas. Please keep it up! Sincerely,MZ

@mikey955

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry Fizzy! Sent to the wrong address!

Very detailed and respectful,useful,pro tips that you mentioned that should definitely be took into consideration pleasure watching thanks and god bless you

Lol, I know you as the kayak/canoe guy! Last person I expected to see in this!

Thank for for sharing your experience. This is my first video so I need to look and see if you have done a follow up.

Good looking trailer!

these videos are great man!

Love it thanks for sharing ...

Great. Great. Great. Great info. Good layout of information and great quality video

New subscriber! Very interesting and informative! Thanks for sharing this with us! Peace to all...💜💙💜

Very detailed, yet concisely presented information...I'm getting ready to build my first tiny house, and this is the kind of channel I have been looking for. Subscribed. Keep it comin!

Great video. Thank you.

👍well done!

this was good info, thanks

I think you’re correct about not using the pressure treated lumber. The corrosives used in that treatment are Not good for any of your fasteners, or the substrate that you’re attaching to. You’re not having a ground contact issue at all, just potentially a condensation issue with wood contacting steel. That’s easy enough to isolate with a gasket or a membrane of some nature. Thus minimizing the thermal bridge, and dealing with potential condensation issues in contact with wood and metal.

Thankyou for the helps

I am building tiny houses in Alaska and I like the video. Looks like a good job. I would however be a little concerned about the structure of the roof if you have any kind of snow load. General rule is 1 foot of span for 1 inch of 2x. For instance, 2x4 spans 4 feet, 2x6 spans 6 feet and so on. 10 feet really is a stretch for 2x6. You may consider adding another cross beam. Also I seen a knot hole above your head when you were explaining the hanging chair support. If that 2x6 is spanning 10 feet and now you have a weak spot in that board, it will further weakens the roof. I have not seen those trailers before, I will definitely look into those.

wow- thanks for sharing

Great video. I learned a lot from watching this.

Fantastic vid. So clearly explained. Thank you.

@ChromeVending

3 жыл бұрын

Agreed!

SO MUCH VALUABLE INFORMATION AND INSPIRATION. I WANT TO BUILD COLLAPSIBLE MODULES IN A RENTED ROOM. I LIKE THE IDEA OF COMPARTMENTALIZATION OF TINY SPACES AND FREE-STANDING, DUAL-PURPOSE STORAGE LIVING. IT HAS TO BE STRUCTURAL WITHOUT DAMAGING WALLS.

Really good video .

Thermal break such as slices of foam insulation between studs and sheathing helps with thermal loss.

Well done

great video

Nice video. Thanks.

I have 2 trailers coming to start my first two tiny house rentals. This is so helpful. Did you draw up your own plans or find these somewhere? Thanks

Excellenr. Thanks for the structural details that r always overlooked but so important to have a thought process. Would like more explanation of how u did the insulation - not very clear but imp I’m sure. Thanks

@actuallytiny2537

3 жыл бұрын

We have a separate video explaining the wall insulation, but in the roof it's basically 2" foam, spaced 1/2 down from the sheathing to make an air gap for ventilation, then rock wool beneath the foam, then the ceiling.

Thank you for shareing

Hi, thanks for the great info, wondering if you have a video on roof/ceiling framing and if you have consider to vent the roof like many do. they say if you use spray foam theres no need to create a venting system, but if you use other kind of insulation you do. thanks.

Thank you for making this ADHD friendly...the way you presented the information, hand movements, and giving visuals kept my attention...thank you for being a teacher and not just someone vomiting up information...you have no idea how much that means...thank you❤️❤️❤️

Brilliant window sill slope

WOW!

LOVE the basic floor plan design. Perfect size, in my opinion. I’m older and don’t need tight stairs, so this single story design meets that need too. Great detail and features. First design in tiny homes that honestly addresses need for some degree of storage 👍 and other daily living needs The deck with kitchen pass through is perfect. Overall, this is FANTASTIC and will be part of my guidance when I design. The potential of this design in exciting. Only thing I would add to the approach is more solar and other forms of passive energy production and storage. But that would work for me since I live much further south. I’m not sure how cost effective solar would be up in region around Quebec, so this comment is not criticism.

@genkiferal7178

Жыл бұрын

Because so many county building codes and tax codes differ in the USA, I also want to avoid the loft/stairs issue - and, consider old age for myself. I wish more tiny home videos showed and also explained not having a loft. I am hoping for a murphy bed, but am not sure about the weight or cost or the thickness or how different hardware affects the weight and thickness - or how ventilation of the mattress will work.

@Tonisuperfly

Жыл бұрын

@@genkiferal7178look up beds on linear actuators. Better than a Murphy bed in my opinion. The bed lifts directly up into the ceiling when not in use, so it can stay fully made up and be ventilated from underneath. When lowered, it can rest on purpose-built furniture or framing so it is stable and safe.

@genkiferal7178

Жыл бұрын

@@Tonisuperfly Oh, I've seen those and they are interesting. But, with a murphy bed, you cannot see the bed anymore and you don't have to worry about expensive mechanical parts or engines wearing out. A murphy bed seems more simple to me. I would cover the door part of it, though, with a pretty fabric so that the mattress could still breathe...maybe a silk-screen type of look or just linen and have other linen elements in the house - maybe curtains and slip-covers.

Ty sir

Very informative. A few things I was unaware of. Especially with window headers and thermal bridging. I was wondering if using a sip panel roof. Would be cost effective? It would give more R value than using insulboard and bat insulation. But I'm not sure if it would add more weight.

@actuallytiny2537

4 жыл бұрын

The only problem with a sip panel other than cost, weight, and installation challenges, is you have to have some way for the top of the panel to breathe, if you put ice and water shield over it and then roofing, there is a chance that the wood on top of the sip could rot out. So with SIPS often people will build up a vent space composed of spacers and a second layer of plywood. Things get heavy and complicated though. For the life of me I can't get a straight answer from SIP manufacturers whether or not they will warranty a roof just built with membrane and roofing screwed on. I want to know!

this is a really interesting and informative walkthrough, quality work. Really appreciate you sharing this. I'm curious as to how you would do this for 4 season living? Is the plumbing geared towards shore hook up use or are there holding tanks involved?

@actuallytiny2537

3 жыл бұрын

The plumbing is geared towards versatility. I set it up so I can change it to a variety of configurations easily.

Excellent!!! Extremely helpful - thank you for sharing. Quick question regarding the plywood subflooring: It would seem that the subfloor is not secured at the perimeter, floating on the XPS foam insulation. I understand that XPS is very strong in compression, so no worries there. But I wonder if you have experienced any deflection, while walking on the Maple flooring along the exterior walls? Thanks again.

Hi this video is an incredible resource so thank you to both of you for all of your efforts here on the channel. I am wondering if you have calculated the gross weight of the tiny house (unfurnished)?

This works where the biggest issue is the cold coming from the North, .if you moved further South where it gets hot from the South, you’d want to park the windowless wall to face South to exactly prevent thermal gain during hot days.

thanks

First off, love these videos wish you had more! Question on the detail where the sill plate meets the metal trailer, any reason for no sill foam gasket between the sill and metal trailer? Also, any reason for not adding a vapor barrier to the floor frame before adding the sheathing? Thanks!

Very nice

Thanks for the video. I'm curious why you wouldn't use steel studs in your walls. More room for insulation, less weight and cheaper.

@BFVsnypEz

8 ай бұрын

That's not a bad idea. I bet you could, but it is a moving trailer so I think there is some structural requirements, would maybe need a solid welded main frame or something.

You should look into using SIPs. Built in structural insulation.

On the 21.39 mark of your video. What is that black channel looking thing between the ceiling and the wall stud up in the corner? Is that some kind of venting? I watched your insulation video and that wasnt explained at all other the you were gluing blocks to you foam insulation before installing them to the ceiling. Do you have a video on that at all as my tiny cabin is in a extreme enviroment and i dont want mold.

Great content highly thought out, your window framing with the angled support it seems with an externally flanged window to make window sill angled for drainage, the top of window needs to tilt out. Theoretically this will happen with a plumb wall. Is this within the margin or error in construction? Or do you find this truly works? Great video , this is the only thing I questioned.

love the floor insulation, but i would of done 24" on center on the walls.

I understand your point on the headers not being needed, but it still freaks me out. I’d probably have done at least a double 2x4 on edge header and put 1/2” of foam on the inside. Just me. Love the detail in planning!

@evictioncarpentry2628

3 жыл бұрын

Dude it's basically a shed. Lol. It doesn't have 10s of thousands of pounds to support

Are you worried about compression of the foam board on the flanges butting against the sill plate? Can it take a lot of weight?

Do you have a diagram of how you positioned the foam on the trailer and the frame on top? I understand that you have bolted the frame laterally to the trailer but you can't tighten all the way with that foam in between correct? Won't it compress?

@adammacer

3 жыл бұрын

It's not under the plate - it butts into the side of it. Extruded poly foam has actually got a very high uniformly-distributed compressive strength meaning if you stand on it with high heels it'll get a hole in it but if you spread that load over the entire surface it'll barely compress.

Thanks for such a great video! I hadn't seen the way you framed up the windows before. And great tip on the sloped window sill! Low-tech clever solutions are the best. :) The one thought I had while watching was about bolts or other metal components that are connected, by metal, to the trailer itself. It might be beneficial to use a little bit of spray foam from a can on them (probably just $100 on both the hardware and foam itself to do this ... and it can also be used for better air sealing elsewhere, too). This will reduce the thermal bridging of the bolts and metal pieces, which can be huge when they are connected to the trailer bed (big heat sink). In addition to efficiency improvements, this can be good if these parts are not super well air sealed from interior warm, more humid air that could cause condensation on those very cold bolt heads in the colder months (rot concern).

i got a crush on you after seconds. precis, to the point, easy, structured and handsome =) thank you!!!

Love your thought process, excellent delivery, consideration for building sci. You're doing such a great job. Couple of quick thoughts: Plywood orientation on floor: I thought plywood puts each lamination perpendicular to the next, making it so the way you lay it doesn't matter unless you care to see the grain aesthetically. PT floor plates: I hate PT and I have seen people just spray the lumber first with boracare (diluted 1:4 w/ water). I think the same concept of creating a capillary break between wood and concrete may apply here. Perhaps consider using 'sill seal' to break it from the trailer. Width of trailer: I'm wondering if a 96" would be good followed by more 'perfect wall' concepts like you did on your roof. Exterior insulation with good drying potential like 1.5" of Rockwool comfortboard 80, wood fiber, or EPS, followed or preceded by a best in class WRB like Intello Mento or SIGA Majvest and a rainscreen. And I love the window frame detail (5 degrees). Just a question, you must have to increase the vert dimension of the rough opening a bit right? Maybe an extra 1/8" - 1/4" measured from the front? The Marvin Integrity windows are nice but I think double-hungs, just by design, leak a lot. I regret them in my larger house. There's manufacturers that sell swing/tilt windows that look like double-hungs. But I suppose being a tiny house, it's not so critical. Heating much less space so a little loss isn't the end of the world. Anyone living in one of these is drastically reducing their carbon footprint. I admire everything you're doing. Such good work and thanks for sharing. Good stuff!

@actuallytiny2537

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks, agreed on the PT, wouldn't do it again. I generally feel pretty safe squeezing the vertical RO on a window, but definitely not horizontal. Interestingly I did all casement windows on my last house, and went back to double hung on purpose. 96 makes a lot of things easier, but man that extra 4 inches is nice. Going wide and low makes the house feel a lot bigger than it actually is, unlike most tiny houses that feel like narrow hallways. A lot of our dimensions were dictated by the space we need to get this thing in and out of the driveway and the space it needs to sit. Exterior rockwool is too heavy, and besides, it's not the insulation that's killing your efficiency in a tiny house it's the AIRFLOW. The ventilation rate needed to keep a tiny house with 2 people below 1000ppm CO2 just murders efficiency and unfortunately nobody makes a small HRV that doesn't suck!

@owenstrawn

3 жыл бұрын

So you recommend rock wool for the floor and ceiling but not walls?

@actuallytiny2537

3 жыл бұрын

oh I misunderstood, I was thinking that you were talking about a rockwool wrap like you see people doing sometimes these days where it goes on the outside of the sheathing behind the siding. That would add too much weight to a tiny house but for the interior of the sidewalls I definitely use Rockwool

@owenstrawn

3 жыл бұрын

Not sure what the OP was talking about but you've answered my question. Thanks!

@MrBrianDuga

3 жыл бұрын

@@actuallytiny2537 Yes I was talking about continuous insulation but your point about the weight is something I didn't think of. I personally have no issue with EPS foam. It's cheap, doesn't outgas CFC's slowly over 100 years, sometimes it can be obtained used, and it's vapor open. Have you tried Lunos for an HRV alternative? Curious how well it works.

I would suggest notching the post to receive the beam and THEN bracketing them together. It would be a catastrophic failure if the trim 2x4 were removed by someone who was not aware of its structural purpose in the future. Additionally, those bracket screws create a line for splitting out that post when subjected to the bouncing going down the road. If the 2x4 trim is not exactly the same expansion/contraction/length required to mirror that of the post, I would be concerned fatigue over time would be a problem. Your design considered vertical loading but perhaps not the horizontal and twisting when the trailer is unevenly supported due to pot holes or other road debris which will apply torsional loading which could very well split that post. If however you had notched and glued the beam into the post with lag screws from the outside to pull and hold the beam into the post in addition to the bracket and the final 2x4 support, I think it would be a much stronger structure overall because it would eliminate the hinge effect which you currently have at that joint. Consider Japanese joinery wherein multi -story buildings have survived earthquakes and hurricanes for centuries without a single bracket or metal fastener.

Is there an advantage to using metal stud framing? They are lighter weight, but less insulating.....