I've enjoyed your instructional videos for years. When you have a new video out I always prefer to watch it over regular television programming. I bought your book a few years ago. I keep reviewing it. One of these days I'm going to build a beautiful wood composite kayak. Thank you for producing these videos Mr. Schade.

It's a complex build, so all the details help to lock it in. Thank you.

These are terrific!!! Very nice work. You’re getting really good at the video format too. Can’t wait to see more as always.

Excellent, these details will save me tons of work when I make my kayak. Keep it up.

So logical, simple and systematic. I really enjoy to follow your progressing work from video to video. I'm not up to build a new kayak myself, not right away nevertheless, but great craftsmanship and beautiful boats? This is a great cocktail!

That is one great method of construction.You have done a great job of design to accommodate the building base. I am impressed with the system.

Best video so far, lots of info and very well explained.

Wow. Excellent video. Just as interesting as building the boat to me. Great system.

Nick, I like how you explain setting up the strong back + forms, also lining up the whole thing. I've watched your series and now I know how It's done. You are an outstanding teacher. BLUE DAVE. P.S. I went out and bought a table saw.😜

Excellent video Nick. Keep them coming.

excellent as usual. Never build or been in one but love the videos.

I'm at this stage in my project at home right now. I started by lining up the forms from both ends, but they were too far out of alignment. Then I lined up one side and put the reference sticks on the first few forms of the other side and it was much easier to line up. Nick's aluminum strongback and CNC routed forms are a bit intimidating. I'm using a homemade box beam strongback and paper forms on MDF cut out with a jigsaw and hand drill and it is working well so far.

Whoa, excellent music there Nick. Gotta say that before I even watch the rest.

Nick, while watching you set up the forms with precision, I remembered seeing plans for the gondolas in Venice. They purposely make one side of the boat 6 inches longer than the other side in order to make it easier for the guy paddling on the one side -- steering by making circles or curves in the water. The boats are highly polished and interior is beautiful high quality upholstery. Ironic as the water ways have sewage to float them in. A strange crooked boat. BLUE DAVE

Great content! I hope you are liking the Vlog format, because I'm loving it! I've watched nearly every video you've made, and they're getting even better. Cheers.

@NickSchade

6 жыл бұрын

I enjoy doing them and individually they are less work than my previous efforts with the Petrel Play build. But, we'll see how I hold out on this daily schedule.

Nick, awesome chanel!!! I just discovered it last night and cannot stop watching! You are truly an amazing craftsman and watching you work is very inspiring!!! I really liked how you have everythig thought out and super organized. when you started talking about the strong back support and how you measure your distances, some thoughts creeped up in my mind and i thought I'd share them with you, perhaps my two cents can help you streamline even further. Instead of measuring from the bow of the boat, why don't you set up your measuring from the middle of the beam. install a metalic adhesive tape measure strip that is most commonly used for miter or table saw sleds, one going towards the front, and the other going towards the back, stern is it? then when installing the middle support boards you can just run them like a normal sled to the point on the tape measure you have. Number the boards in sequence somethimg like 1-b30, the 1stands for the first board from the bow, and a fool proof B for bow and 30 for the ammount of inches from your center starting point. That way you just slide the boards in order and space them without having to fiddle with tape measures. I have never built a boat and I'm not sure if there aren't other details I would have obviously not thought of and this would not work, but that's what I'd do if i had to build one. Please think about this and let me know if it makes sense to you and if not, then why not! Your channel makes me wanna build a boat now!!! Perhaps I can come join on your building courses .... Happy paddling

That is so fast . And it’s all locked in place !!

I have been Watching your videos for a while now and really like your content and teaching style. I am not going to build a Kayak at all but I am one day going to build a foiling Sailboat similar to the Hobbie Trifoiler and your lessons will help me in doing so. I appreaciate what you are doing here and wish I could support you monitarily but life won't let me right now. When I do get to the point where I can build my boat I will remember you and contribute then if you are still around as I hope you will still be. Thank You.

@NickSchade

6 жыл бұрын

A foiling sailboat sounds like a blast. Don't wait to long, the sooner you start, the sooner you get to use it.

Hi Nick, Awesome,beautiful work. A laser level would make quick work of lining up your forms. Maybe a pencil mark on the outside edge would help, but not necessary. Your strongback would have to be level first. Cheers

@NickSchade

4 жыл бұрын

I've used a laser level. The time saved in setting up the forms is lost in setting up the level.

Good video

Hi, Nick! Great video. I love all your content. I have a question with regards to the form spacers. I have an aluminum strongback now, and I just completed making my own spacers to go in between the forms for the Greenland Night Heron I am building. Do you have more details anywhere online on how you cut that middle spacer to use with the wedges?

Been following your vids. I appreciate the engineering mind you put to your designs(exceptional far sighted). Click on my green icon then expand to "videos" to see the ultimate totally adjustable strong back(can uee it over & over). What i have going is definitely in only pro's set-ups, which you might apprieciate. Working with Balsa lineally application ++ lineal tight seemed veneer each side(inside& outside). I do like the idea of a SolidWorks design, but probably like you mine is full scale hands&knees marine architecture.

You must have had that aluminium section a long time Nick. Where did you get it from and how many kayaks have you made on it? Great set up by the way. Liked it the first time I saw it, some years ago now, and never get bored of seeing it. Thanks nick.

Hi Nick, I want to mimic your strong back's. What are the dimensions of and the material used on the external strong back? I take it that the external can be used on any length boat you make. I have made it through the first round of the microbootlegger series. On my second round now. I got into the class so I hope to see you in June. Your attention to detail is just what the doctor ordered. Thanks. George

Hi Nick: When you "added" extra forms for the 10" spacing, could you pls tell me which form #s? With regard to forms bevels; in acquiring the angles, and after alignment on the horizontal alignment ref marks, would a string line placed [bow to stern] on the H align marks "tell" which forms to bevel and how much [and subsequent movement of say, an inch or two "away" from the H align marks into vertical most position of the form, be okay, or? Thanks, Randy

That is an elaborate set up ! A lot of great planning and execution ! Do you expect when the forms are removed from the hull, will the hot melt glue destroy the edge of the form ? Another Great video !

@NickSchade

6 жыл бұрын

It is quite possible the forms will be mangled by the removable process. Particularly since I cut the lightening holes, which weakens the forms substantially.

@jimdodd3462

6 жыл бұрын

I'm guessing the MDF to be more fragile than plywood. Better to lose a form, than to destroy a strip. I like the 10" spacing, a benefit of computer design fairing ! Lovin this series ! Thanks !

I know you probably feel like you're over emphasizing this subject, but when you think of the volumes on the topic of lofting, your explanation is easy to digest ... thanks.

@johnd5805

6 жыл бұрын

Yes excellent point. Great Video.

As I watched you line up the forms, I had an Idea. If you get a laser light, it will make lining it up with precision. The red laser can reach 20 miles. The green one can reach 30 miles. I figure a leveled table can be used to slide laser to view the forms lined strait. Or use a tripod. I haven't thought it through. BLUE DAVE.

@NickSchade

4 жыл бұрын

I have used a laser in the past. It does a nice job of projecting a straight line. However, it does not line up the forms for you, you still need set up the laser in the right place and hold it securely, then also secure the strongback so it does not twitch relative to the laser. Once it is setup, the line projected is easy to see and you can make your adjustments in one plane (horizontal or vertical). Then you need to set up the laser in the other plane (vertical or horizontal) to see if everything is good there and make adjustments as needed. You then should double check the first plane to make sure it hasn't moved due to your recent adjustment. Then if any new adjustments were needed you should go back and check the other plane again. This cycle could go on awhile as you dial everything in. Obviously two laser would speed up the process. Alternately, you can use your eyes to sight down the forms and the reference lines to see if everything looks good. This can be done quickly with no other setup beyond assembling the forms on the strongback. You are doing the same thing you would be doing if you had set up a laser, without the bother of actually setting up the laser.

So, if I do 10" spacing between forms, which 2 form "positions" would I duplicate ???

Hi Nick I'm fascinated with the content and explanations that you have posted in the videos. In the case of this video at 10:23 when you mention about the alignment of the water line of the shapes I ask you? . Would the level that builders use to lift walls help you to align the height of all molds? .Idea of horizontal alignment in molds by molds. Hug .

@NickSchade

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, a laser level or something similar can certainly be used. Some people may find it helpful. Note that you would have to spend a fair of time getting the system setup exactly where you want it. Of course, in the end it will be your eyes seeing if the alignment looks right to you, the laser just gives you another way of referencing.

@rafaelamericoguerreiro683

4 жыл бұрын

@@NickSchade Thanks Nick

would a laser line sight help with this? eyeballing it might not be 100%?

@NickSchade

6 жыл бұрын

A laser could help in some situations, but it would be more complicated. You would need to get the laser in exactly the right place, pointing in exactly the right way. You might have to shim the strongback to get everything perfectly level. And as Jimmy Diresta says "If it Looks Straight, It is Straight".

Would it be possible to use the CNC router to make holes in the froms at exactly the same spot which you can use as sights to line up the forms on the strongback?

@NickSchade

4 жыл бұрын

There are enough references to get the forms well aligned, but a hole like you suggest can help. I have done it in the past and decided it doesn't make that big a difference.

Experience talking!