Hey folks. I've finished my full restore of my 75 Honda CB 360t and everything but the paint is Common Motors Collective. Great quality parts. Also, Brandon has been a huge help to me. Without his vids I'd still be working on it. His help with timing is crucial. Also want to mention my upgrade to the shockwave, replacing the points. GREAT!! That's all. I just haven't found a place to thank him properly so that's why I posted this

Thanks for the video. Very informative and no obnoxious music.

This is a good video on ignition points adjustment. Static timing will get you into the ball park, but dynamic timing with a strobe light allows you to test the timing at idle and full advance. Full advance is more critical as the engine operates above 2500 rpm most of the time. If the full advance is between the lines on both points you are golden. If not, adjust the timing as needed. The point plate may not fit in the crankcase tightly, This will cause a variation in point gap and dwell as you rotate the plate. You can easily see this with a dwell meter attached. The solution is to center punch the case just outside the point plate to tighten up the fit. I always liked to set the points at the middle of the range 0.014". Ignition points will wear into each other over time. One of the contacts is smaller in diameter then the other and will wear the center of the larger point. If you run an emery board across well used points you may see a shiny ring around the outside edge of one point. A very small amount of high temp grease on the points cam will reduce point rubbing blocks wear and changing the timing. If you have installed a new set of points, be sure to thoroughly clean the point surfaces with a piece of card stock dipped in contact cleaner and then pulled through the points. New points have preservative on them which must be cleaned off for the best service life.

@aluminumshapingobsession2814

Жыл бұрын

That's the way I learned in Honda school too (Midwest Training Center under BOB Hanson)...Don't know if all that grease was necessary. It gets flung off and causes a real mess! A slight spritz of WD in the advance unit also keeps it proper and keeps rust away. Also a tiny spritz on the spring pegs...

This instructional video came at a perfect time-ING : ) I did mine statically and the bike runs fine, but I think I want to get a timing light to be perfect. Really great video, Thank You!

These videos are awesome - thanks Common-Motor 👍

Thanks for the great video. it was informative and straight to the points. also i have the same bike. thanks for showing the static and dynamic process. im glad there wasn't any irrelevant info in the video like explaining how a spark gap works, or the proper way to peel potatoes. the last video i watched the guy talked for 10 minutes about everything other than how to set the timing while stumbling with words. it was the worst. i just kept shouting at the screen "that's not what i came here for get on with it" thankfully you dont waste time.

as always, your videos are excellent

Doing this tomorrow on my 400f...thank you for the great video and information.

@aman2742

3 жыл бұрын

Thumbs up just because you have a 400f!🤙

Thanks man this is really great help me a lot I built a cb400f I couldn't get timing right!!

So I'm having some troubles with a newly acquired 1973 Honda 350 Four, and while learning some things about it, I found your video! Your instructions are easy to follow, and I'm glad I've found your video! I will be subscribing as soon as I get done with this question. I'm not getting spark to the plugs, so I figured I'd need new coil packs... after seeing this video, I figured I'd look at my timing while I have the bike up on the stand and was surprised to find that I have no power to test the timing! I'm not very experienced with this bike, I just got it in my garage a week or 2 ago, and I don't know where that power comes from. I've double-checked my ignition switch. It was on, and of course, the key was on, but I couldn't get my test light to come on from the 1 4 or the 2 3 contact points as seen in this video. It's hard to trace the wires with how compact this 350 frame is, so I figured I'd ask, where does the power for the contact for the timing come from? Thanks in advance for any help!

The video is great,thank you for sharing!I also sent LIKE👍

Amazing video congrats!

You have the very best guide for timing the old CBs and i am extremely appreciative. I have an issue with getting power to the actual points. Something likely easy to resolve but not sure of a resolution.

Thank you for this video. First time doing timing and found the plate was way off! Bike is starting to run better and now on to the valve clearance!

Excellent video

Thank you so much, i found out my bike was about 20⁰ retaarded in timing, now it loves to dance in higher rpm

extremely informative.

Complimenti, molto chiaro e di grande aiuto

Great video thanks. May be angle of the camera but I did notice the timing marks didn't look to line up accurately.

actually there is a third additional test to test the functionality of the ignition advancer - rev up to 2500rpm - 3000rpm with the gas screw and check the allignment ith the two advance marks ahead of the F Mark. if the mark on ignition plate lines up between the two marks - the advancer is fine. sometimes the advancer is sticky or the springs are to loose. I think this is im portant because most of the time driving this bike we are way beyond 2500 rpm...

@cb400fhonda6

3 жыл бұрын

That was a very important point you made Only pros are familiar.

@meTimetraveler

2 жыл бұрын

yeah i kept my 750 on boil all the time.....i street raced anything w/ wheels

Enjoyed the video Here is my take Have you tried a dwell meter and the dynamic timing method The dewell angle method is probably more accurate then feller gauges And at the end verify it with a good quality timing light If you have one that has a adjusting system you could see how far you may have to correct or dead on

Where did you find that static timing light? Thanks for the instructional video, helping a lot.

I didn't see u rev it up to make sure advancer is working.

Thank you, It is very symple. Is better to replace with a electonic one like ELECTRONIC (KOKUSAN)?

What amazes me is the frequency of these "tune ups". For years I've heard Hondas are reliable and need very little maintenance. I have worked on 1 CB750 ( I like to get a bike to work on over the winter) and got the workshop manual along with the bike. My conclusion was, if I wanted to take a cross country ride I'd have to bring half my tool box with me. 1,500 miles and check the points, valves clearances and cam chain tensioner? Now I'm not knocking these bikes they are fun and when they run right very quick. I learn something from every bike I work on and what I've learned from the CB750 four is....don't work on another...LOL Great video, great information....I might change my mind.

@RandomGuyDan

2 жыл бұрын

In 2011 I rode my '77 550K 1300 miles around Lake Michigan. In 2017 I rode my '75 550F 4700 miles to Colorado and back and in 2019 rode my current bike, a '76 750F 1300 miles to SC and back. At no point in any of these rides did I check the timing or points gap. I checked the cam chain regularly, and adjusted the cam chain tension and changed the oil once on the 4700 mile ride. The SOHC4 bikes are very robust and 1500 mile timing checks are not at all necessary.

Un saludo desde Venezuela tengo una honda four cb350 pero perdí el tiempo en los platinos

I wish you could do a video on CB750A HondaMatic tuning. Can’t find anything on KZread.

Thanks for making this video, very well done and very informative. I use the same procedure to time my 1976 Honda CB750 but I don’t do the static timing, I go straight to the dynamic timing with the timing light. One small slip of the tongue. At about 6:41 you say the test light will illuminate when the point makes contact. In fact, the test light comes on when the points open which is when the coil fires the spark plugs. You are connecting the positive clip of the test light on the ground side of the coil and the ground pointer rod of the test light to the bike frame ground which is also connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Note that the positive side of the coil is connected to the battery positive terminal. The points are between the ground side of the coil and the bike frame ground. When the points are open the ground side of the coil also connects to the battery positive terminal through the coil and there is 12 volts across the open points which is why the test light comes on. When the points are close there is zero volts across the points which is why the test light goes off but there is 12 volts across the coil which charges the coil. So when the points open the coil discharges and fires the spark plugs. Hope I did not get too technical.

@bentonneil7416

2 жыл бұрын

I dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I love any assistance you can give me.

@jerryjad9971

2 жыл бұрын

@Benton Neil Instablaster ;)

@bentonneil7416

2 жыл бұрын

@Jerry Jad i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.

@bentonneil7416

2 жыл бұрын

@Jerry Jad It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thank you so much, you really help me out!

@jerryjad9971

2 жыл бұрын

@Benton Neil glad I could help xD

Super!!

Grazie grazie bravo grazie per i sottotitoli in italiano

What should I do I if I can't move the adjustment plate far enough when doing a static set?

Does it matter if my yellow and blue wires are both on the inside of the green wires?

To test static timing are you using a continuity tester?

Hi, my light comes on when the points have no contact. Im kinda confused. Does it matter where the green and yellow cable of the condensers are mounted?

Is someone able to tell me what size the feeler gauge used is in mm please?

Just bought feeler gauges and light from your web store, maybe I’ll put a cushion on the ground under it when I do my timing - not ready for an early funeral

Your second set of points are likely to be dirty or oily and that’s why you are getting a resistive low light indication. File them flat and clean with solvent and you should be golden

My shaft doesnt have contact points, but pickups. Pickup plate are static. If i want to change timing should i adjust cranks/advancers bolt somehow? if so how can i do that if my engine spins.

What is that thing sitting over the advance? I am missing it

I have a '72 Honda 500four. Is it the same process?

I have an 82 CB900f, 1 & 4 cylinders are super rich and 2 & 3 are super lean, any insight to help me out? Also it's very lazy like the timing is not advancing.

dont forget to adjust the cam chain...no...no crescent wrenches they are for plumbing. before you adjust points that have been used..clean the points...they get some arching so they need to be cleaned. the pistons rise and fall in pairs, 2 coils so both spark plugs fire only one piston is on the compression stroke in the pair. if i remember correct a piston fires every 180° . i had a Triumph trident 3 cylinder , each piston fired every 120°

Does this wor for the early 80s model

Great video as always & I’m going to watch it again but PLEASE cut out the tedious, aggravating & completely unnecessary Muzak . Thanks, Chris

l hated doing this and gave up !! l fitted Pirahna electronic ignition to both my Four hundred fours !! Very easy to set up with a strobe light !!

So I have an 82 CB750 and it looks like my advancer is on the left side, by the starter clutch. Or is this something completely different? I pulled it off to rebuild the starter clutch but didn't pay attention to the orientation of the advancer, and when I put it back together I think the timing is off. Should I follow this to reset timing? Or is that something completely different?

I'm sorry I'm a total beginner noob at this stuff what is that big nut in the middle that you are turning?

two different versions of where index mark is, when u adjusted it yr arrow was pointing to a different place

Hi, please help me 🙏 what the hell is going on with my biks ignition,that after ~30 miles it goes out. I adjust it again and ignition seems perfect, fire on R/L on time, but the story repeats itself over and over again after riding. Now i am constantly riding with tools bag and a light tester so I can come home if necessary

Im planning to get a CB750A are the ignition system similar to the manual?

@gypsysteelworks5858

3 жыл бұрын

It's not the trans type that you should be looking at it's the year of the motorcycle. Honda started switching to cdi ignition around 1978 or 79 so check the year of the bike and look up the specs on google. Hope this helps

I have a CB500k0 (an Australian model from 1970 that may not have been imported into the USA). It's a long term project where I have been collecting bits for several decades. I have an electronic ignition system for it, butnwhere do you get your points from as I got the EIS because I couldn't get new ones any more?

@Danny_6Handford

3 жыл бұрын

I live in Canada near London Ontario and buy all my parts for my 1976 Honda CB750 in the Netherlands hear www.cmsnl.com/ . You can get points, capacitors and everything you need. Everything is priced in EUROs so you have to do the conversion to your local currency. The shipping is fast and I never had any problems. You can also call them but be aware of the time zones,

When using the timing light to adjust the points my light is on constantly but gets brighter at a certain point in the rotation. Is this just a characteristic of the light im using? Should inconsider the brightening of the light the "turning on" of the light?

@Common-motor

2 жыл бұрын

That's really strange, the timing light should definitely be off so I would check to see what's completing the circuit when it's not supposed to be.

What happens when the adjustments I need to make are outside of the range of adjustment? I can get close with the static timing, but I can't get close with the 2nd part.

@Common-motor

3 жыл бұрын

Hey rob, sign up for one of our tech calls on the website or message our support for a little bit more detailed help.

@robdc4829

3 жыл бұрын

@@Common-motor Thanks! Good quality videos and parts too! It looks like I need to submit an order number to ask the question though.

no fix for the CB 650 with electronic ignition.

Is this the same for the CM series? I have a CM400T that likely needs this.

@jlacc1

3 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately the CM400T is running on a CDI MODULE made by Hitachi TIAO1-20.

@Bogdanko93

3 жыл бұрын

@@jlacc1 why do you think this is unfortunately?

@jlacc1

3 жыл бұрын

@@Bogdanko93 The CDI Module of this type are no longer manufactured and second hand sold online are hit or miss which can be costly. I only know 2 companies who have remanufactured such modules. 1 in England the 2nd in Ukrain and i have read good things about it but still it is not of original equiptment.

@Bogdanko93

3 жыл бұрын

@@jlacc1 do you have a link to Ukrainian guy? It so happened to be that I am looking for this particular CDI unit

@Bogdanko93

3 жыл бұрын

@@jlacc1 You seem like a guy who know this stuff well. Do you know by any chance what one can do with malfunctioning stator? Is it possible to find a replacement for it? Does anyone manufacture them?

Good info. But there's some "dwell overlap" issues here. Testing should be done to determine when the light goes "out" as the crankshaft is rotated past the trigger point. This should occur well before the "F" mark on the other set of points. Otherwise, both coils will be energised at the same time ...reducing coil saturation. This phenomenon significantly reduces ignition performance with this hardware setup.

@DrewBloo

2 жыл бұрын

Interesting. What adjustment do you make if the light doesn’t go out?

My light doesn’t go on at all

What am I missing here…I set my points gap, put the test light exactly where it is supposed to be, and the light stays lit the entire time, I spin the motor and it never goes out…it’s the same way when I check 2/3. What am I messing up?

@willhernandez6309

Жыл бұрын

Did you every figure this out btw?

@geisend

Жыл бұрын

@@willhernandez6309 I did not..

@BlueRaven02

Жыл бұрын

David, I figured it out. Set the points on the other tang. Notice the points stay closed the whole time in the video? If you set points the other way the gap never closes, therefore your light stays on all the time.

Chinese points have driven me insane all it takes is a 3thou. Difference in the shoe part of the point and walah 🤬

🤣 RIP test light!

You neglected the A's even though I am sure they are the same