I don't use a brake for hunting or competition. I only use one at the range on my 300 win mag to see how much noise I can make when shooting under the metal roof 😂

1) The momentum of the gas is much less than the momentum of the bullet. A muzzle brake cannot reduce recoil more than about 30%. The the real problem is this: it redirects the muzzle blast back at you and other shooters, that's a real steep price to pay. I fired a .223 with a brake (Ruger, a 223 doesn't need a brake) )the other day and forgot to put my muffs on. I experienced sharp physical pain and the retort was worse that firing a 308 or other cartridge without a brake. Plus a brake can negatively effect the bullet on barrel exit.

The last few rifles I've bought were heavy barrel, "predator" versions of fairly cheap guns, with cheap plastic/ polymer? /hollow stocks. I've been pulling off the butt stocks and adding a pound or so of weight inside them (BB's etc) really seems to help with the balance and recoil, for under $1

My largest problem with specific muzzle brakes, i.e. witt machine, top ports that aren't adjustable. I have a clamp on brake on a 06 that was kicking like a mule, put the brake on and can shot the rifle all day long no problems, so witt machine done a great job, the part that isn't so great is the only brake offered for the 30 cal clamp on from them came with top ports, if the ports could be closed or adjusted to a minimal amount of muzzle flip assist it would be top notch, but the ports are just open so when shotting off bi pods at targets, the rifle gets shived down and bounces off the bi pod, and in the flimsy stock that the rifle is in at the moment is a bad day for accuracy at distance. Lite shorter barrel, can almost bet it is pushing the barrel down to the stick. Fixing the stick issue tomorrow with a new more rigid stock, figuring out how to close or block off the ports in a fashion that will allow adjustability.

I have a tmb I shot 500 rounds in 6.5 Creedmoor then I removed it and cleaned it then put it back on to the same settings and I never lost zero

Are you an aerospace engineer? I feel like I just got taken back to school. Much PTSD was dredged up.

Wish you would explain “flat baffle” in more detail.

I noticed the movement of POI with a flash hider. They get a lot of carbon in them and on the crown of the barrel. I was removing it to clean. When replacing, I noticed POI changes. I finally realized that the crush washer was thicker on one side then the other (about 0.002”). The orientation of the washer was different each time I installed the flash hider since I was not making any attempt to clock it in the same spot. I lathe turned the washer and the problem went away. I was surprised at how much the slight difference in gasses escaping on be side vs the other could deflect the bullet.

Great! Giving me one more item to get OCD about. That said glad all the brakes I bought are Precision Armament and flat baffle design. What luck.

What could be used to clean a muzzle break? I've heard all kinds of things.

1:54

In our shop we use Harrell's and we bore the I.D. after solid installation. Thanks.

I like and enjoy the way you operate. I follow every video you put out. For a 70 yr old and a specialized army veteran that should say alot to you. You are good. 👍👍👍. Happy holiday to you and your family young man

Great info. for thought/consideration - Thanks fer sharing !!

Your spot on with the vertical dispersion issue that I see as well as upsizing the caliber which would help it seems with the supersonic projectile passing through and exiting the barrel. I experience the dispersion through the scope and we will see how my next break functions now that I saw this. Very well explained and thank you!

Thank you for the targets👍

This is a very well-made video! The physicist in me really enjoyed it. I've got brakes on several of my more "thumpy" rifles, including Precision Armament M4-72 and Hypertap, Ultradyne Apollo Max and Ultradyne Pulse, and a Venom Defense (now a defunct business), plus a few from other brands that I can't recall at the moment. It's quite true, like you said, that some just work better than others regarding precision. I have a couple that, although they do reduce the felt recoil, they tend to open up the group size... so they go on my "screwing around guns" as opposed to my tack drivers.

You’re absolutely correct on the topic about self timing breaks. They have caused me nothing but problems. I never thought of lock tighting it but I buy the simple screw one and file down the mating surface until it’s clocked right. Takes some practice with a hand file but it looks good. Thanks for the video man.

Number one thing with precision brakes is don't take them off. Number two is symmetry. The asymmetry from vertical ports creates barrel whip and, while you can tune it out, it changes barrel dynamics.

I glued my self timing break properly today. What a fantastic tip 😂