Here is a comment to feed the algorithm. Nice work!

thank you

Where are you getting the parts and manual?

On 28:37 before you installed the cylinder head, is that where the pistons position has to be when you install the head and set the timing?

Great video! Thank You. One question would be how you got the timing chain installed? It didn’t appear to be on the crankshaft when You put the cases together. I am going to replace my timing chain and would prefer to not split the case.

@h2omechanic

2 жыл бұрын

That is a good question. You may have to grind a link & redo the chain. There's a Manual online, must guys in forums have it available. I'd read the manual and see what it says. But yes, my chain was on in the Vid, it was just hanging inside on the guide.

@dennis1562

2 жыл бұрын

Ahh I see. The manual says the case needs split to replace the timing chain. Thanks again for the video and showing how to do it correctly

I got a question for you. I have a Ryker with the Rotax 900ACE motor. It’s rated for 82hp. There is a comparable snowmobile with the same motor. It’s rated at 95hp. As far as I can tell, all things are equal. Same compression ratio, same throttle body etc. can I swap a snowmobile ecu onto my Ryker to get that 12hp bump? What would be the risks of trying? What should I considered before experimenting with that? Even further, I’m tempted to purchase a used sled turbo set up from eBay and adapt it to my bike since their practice the same motor as far as I can tell. Curious what your thoughts are.

@h2omechanic

Жыл бұрын

I would assume it would work. But a jetski runs wide open most of it life. A snow ski can handle more/higher ignition timing bc its not ran like a jetski. They also don't have such a direct heavy load. My opinion on the ace 900, it's a cheap engine that has cheap internals, it's not manufactured to withstand crazy HP mods. I sold the ski bc from a mechanical standpoint it's not built to a high quality standard.

What is my best bet to getting a new crankshaft that won’t have the same issue again. Sending it to someone to have them send a modified one back? or should I just get a 2018 Oem crankshaft?

@h2omechanic

11 ай бұрын

I have a video on the jetski Playlist covering the crankshaft. You send him your crankshaft and he cuts threads & sends you your back. Not a fast process, but its far cheaper than buying a 2018 crank. If you want a 5 day turnaround, buy a 2018 crankshaft, if your cool with a 6 week start to finish project for around $200, you can contact him via txt. He's very busy, so keep it short & to the point. His # will be in the comments section somewhere in the crankshaft repair Vid.

Great video! How did you set the timing?

@h2omechanic

Жыл бұрын

I just lined up the marks on the cams. Once it's tight, it all lines up. Everything is in the manual. That's a must have!

Are you still selling those head bolts? How much you want for them?

@h2omechanic

10 ай бұрын

They are gone

@Dmaxtyler

10 ай бұрын

@@h2omechanic no worries I just emailed ARP bolts specs, I’m sure they already manufacture head studs for, I don’t intend on rebuilding this again but if I do it will pay itself off lol

So, you took the time to plastigauge the bearings but didnt lap obviously rusted valves? You stated rust was what the valves had on them, the whole head should have been disassembled and the valves lapped. How does 90 degrees and 45 degrees equal 120 degrees? The initial flex of the tool and fastener doesn't count toward the final torque angle so thats likely to be somewhat confusing to a novice and its not good arithmetic. Based on the condition of the bores, that engine looks like it saw water and even if not, the oil pumps should both have been opened and checked. Its also clear that there are rust patches that possibly were attempted to be honed out unsuccessfully. The cylinders should have been bored and precision honed as it appears, pock patches will create blowby and premature ring wear. It is absolutely NEVER required to grind or modify the timing chain, it travels over 700 linear inches per second at 7kRPM, its not a dirtbike chain, it can not be shortened and should never need to be. Attempting to do so will virtually guarantee a whip failure. I didnt see a crank locking tool or a cam shaft alignment tool anywhere, they take the guess work out of timing and should be considered as required items for the assembly process. The sprag clutch should have been removed and inspected then oiled prior to assembly along with all 4 idler gears center hubs. Kudos for doing your own work, but honestly there's alot more that should have been done and you should NEVER use SBT stuff in any engine you want to survive. I can tell you with absolute certainty their water pump oring will leak, you'd have been better served to reuse the factory green one, they last forever by comparison. ShitBoxTechnologies isn't thick enough and the water pump is probably going to leak. Seen lots of them do so. Besides, why buy OEM hard parts then cheap out on the gasket kit? I applaud the time and effort on display here, but imo the build had several glaring shortcoming that may very well prove to be an Acheilles heel in the long run. If you are watching this video to learn how to build your ACE 900, be aware there may be steps it would behoove you to add to what this video shows.