Thanks Ron for your info. When I removed my LB cable actuated valve I learned a few more things which I'd like to share. The entire plastic cable actuator housing can be removed from the gate valve by first removing the screw that holds the plastic block near the cable end and then spreading the two flat plastic "fingers" that slip over the body of the gate valve. Removing the screw allows the cable block to slip down inside the plastic actuator housing and the housing to come out over the cable ... which exposes the aluminum cylinder which screws onto the stem of the gate valve. Once you've unscrewed the aluminum cylinder from the stem (mine was 5 turns) you can remove the cable with plastic block & aluminum cylinder from the plastic "fingers" piece. And if you want to disassemble the cable assembly you can then remove the set screw from the aluminum cylinder and slide the cylinder off. Note however that the stiff inner wire will have a kink in it from the set screw, which you may have to straighten out before pulling the inner cable from the outer housing ... should you wish to do so. On my valves there was a 1/4" hex head sheetmetal screw going into the plastic block axially from the inside of the block to hold the outer cable housing into the block. If you remove this screw you can then pull the outer housing from the plastic cable block. When replacing the cable, BE SURE to have the SAME AMOUNT of inner cable protruding from the outer cable housing before you assemble everything. Once I learned the above, I was able to lubricate the actuator cable and then replace just the basic gate valve with a LB 39240 unit at much less cost than a complete cable valve assembly.

Thanks Ron.. This was the 2nd video I found for the Bristol valves and yours offered a lot more useful information.. Our Imagine 2250RK has been giving me fits with the Galley Grey tank valve. I finally peeled back the belly cover yesterday, and have ordered the new valve. I kept bending the pull-rod and have been having trouble with this valve off and on for over a year.. as it turns out, In our case, that little block that determines how far the valve opens and closes was broken into two pieces and was pushed down inside the housing. I was successful in getting the valve open to drain the tank, and it wasn't easy but I did find a 1 1/2 inch valve with a 36 inch cable.. SO Now I wait for the part to arrive. Thanks again for the great video. And we shall see you at National in August (Section C)

@ronaldwickery681

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad to help you spend your money! 😉 See ya soon

If it has not been confirmed yet, I can at this point, that I purchased a Valterra cable to replace my Bristol cable and it fit perfectly. So Yes, you can just replace the cable on a Bristol but use a Valterra cable which is much cheaper of a replacement than the whole valve. Just be creative with how you disassemble the old, and how the new goes in. I seriously saved 50% (actually a bit more) than the alternative. All done without removing the old vavle, challenging but doable.

Another cause of leaks is the seals. You can replace them with LaSalle Bristol 39227 Seal Kit for about $14.

After removing the four bolts you mentioned “separate” to get the valve out. Please specify in more detail what is done and how to put the valve back in easily before tightening the four bolts.

@ronaldwickery681

Жыл бұрын

I used plumbers grease as a way to keep the seal from moving around but the seal staying in place is a struggle. You'll have to play with it and get to understand how it works. If you get it right out won't leak. If it leaks, you pinched the seal. Don't over tighten the nuts. Just snug them down. Over tightened will cause crushing & lead to more problems.

“Spread it” was the term used. What is used to spread it? And what do you spread and how do you get the valve back between the pipes you “spread”?

@ronaldwickery681

Жыл бұрын

Spread it, (I think) is referring to separating the tank from the outer pipe. Once the 4 bolts are removed you should be able to pry the tank side from the outer pipe side by pushing against the tank. Using a wooden handle of a hammer works. (Stay away from using sharp objects) You don't need to move more than ½ inch or so to be able to wiggle the valve out. It's nuanced because every rig is different in setup and space. Bottom line you have to create just a small space to get the valve out. Most grey & black tanks sit on a framed bracket and are not secured down so they will move a little. You can use a wooden stick to apply leverage, either by twisting it or pushing on strategic locations.

Just had my LB valve off and the set screw that's inside the cable stop holds the cable in place. It does nothing more than that.

no leaks, but valve (cable ?) has increased to not being able to push in or pull out without using great force! help?

@ronaldwickery681

2 жыл бұрын

One of 3 things may have occurred or are occurring IMO. 1, the handle area has bent ever so sightly. It doesn't take much of a bend to corrupt the motion of in and out. Dry lube spray will maybe help too. Not WD 40 or anything oil based. That collects dirt and dust. 2, your cable is getting bound up. If you can't fling your handle around like a propeller, your handle is to tight. It needs to be able to rotate. 3, your valve seal isn't being opened and closed enough, which doesn't show the seal to stay lubed & worked enough to allow easy movement. Other than open and closing it more often, the only other option is to open it up, replace seals and add plumbers silicone grease, but that's a last resort!

How did you get the cable plastic cover set screw to begin tightening? You skipped that part.

@ronaldwickery681

3 жыл бұрын

There's 2 holes side by side. One larger, for the cable, and one smaller for the set screw. The set screw threads actually catch and screw into the cable housing which is how it sets the limit housing. It kind of pinches it in. Once you take the Phillips screw off the top of the cable limit housing and pull it out, you can see the the set screw. It's about ½ in long and just screws out. I wish I'd put more on about that, but you should see what I'm talking about once you get the cable out.

@GT-vb8js

3 жыл бұрын

@@ronaldwickery681 Thank you

Where can I get "just the cable"? Do you have a part number? Thanks

@ronaldwickery681

Жыл бұрын

Easiest place is to go to Amazon. Length is your question. The cable is easy to cut to your needed length. It's a solid wire wrapped in a rubber sheath. This is what I got. 84 inches was plenty for me. Valterra TC84 Flexible Cable Replacement for Waste Valve Kits - 84 Inch, 7 Feet a.co/d/db5NgeI

How is the gate attached to the metal piece where you insert the cable and tighten the set screw? Is that a piece of wire too? I can move the cable in/out and see that metal piece move in/out but I can't tell if the gate is actually opening and closing.

@ronaldwickery681

Жыл бұрын

The cable slides into a small box, then a small set screw stress into the box along the edge of the cable and the threads screw into the cable & box keeping the cable set. The cable end itself screws into a hole and another set screw secured the cable to the valve gate plunger. The little box acts as an anchor. How you can tell if the valve is opening is the valve gate rod will extend outward towards the top half of the valve.

@robh063

Жыл бұрын

@@ronaldwickery681 Thanks for the information!

@weshuether203

7 күн бұрын

All of your info is great, but cable repair or improvement attempts are a waste of time and last for maybe a season At best depending on how much you use it. The most effective and long term fix is to to trash can the cables and install electric valve actuators. I used the Barker valve actuators and the problems are just a bad memory for me. Cost me about 400 dollars and there is no more fighting with the stupid cables.