Learn more about the different Explorer II bezels in this episode of Inside Watches. Shop certified pre-owned Rolex Explorer II watches here: www.bobswatches.com/rolex-exp...
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00:00 INTRO
00:45 Rolex Explorer II
01:16 Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655
01:46 Ref. 1655 vs. 16550
02:22 Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550
03:17 Ref. 16550 vs. 16570
03:38 Rolex Explorer II ref. 216570 & 226570
04:18 Outro
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In today’s installment of Inside Watches, we’re taking a closer look at the different Explorer II bezels.
But, first, what is the Rolex Explorer II?
Every model in the Rolex sports watch category caters to a different profession or niche market. The Submariner was developed for diving, the GMT Master II was made for pilots, and the Milgauss is the company’s signature anti-magnetic watch for scientists, powerplant workers, and the like.
The Explorer, which pre-dates the Explorer II by two decades, was inspired by the first successful ascent of Mount Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary.
In 1971, the Explorer II came to market with the same zest for adventure, but this time aimed at cave explorers and other dark environment adventurers.
Initially, the watch was outfitted with a fixed 24-hour bezel and an arrow hand that helped the wearer track AM and PM hours, a handy feature when spending days in the arctic or winding cave systems where it can be easy to lose track of time.
Of course, the Explorer II is also outfitted with Rolex’s iconic waterproof Oyster case and Perpetual movement with self-winding.
REFERENCE 1655
Turning our attention back to the bezels. Inaugural ref. 1655 has, perhaps, one of the most distinctive bezels in the entire Explorer II lineup.
Instead of the more common inverted triangles, we are used to seeing in the modern lineup, the bezel features hash marks for the odd numerals.
It mirrors the retro aesthetic of the dial topped with large, almost chunky baton hour markers.
It’s also important to note that the arrow hand on ref. 1655 does not operate independently of the other hands, which means that the bezel serves only as an AM and PM Indicator.
The example we have here in this video is particularly intriguing because it also features what is commonly referred to as an "Albino" dial. The bright orange arrow hand has since faded to white to match the hour markers.
Laying the Albino Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 next to its successor ref. 16550, you’ll see the difference between the bezels immediately.
The hash marks indicating the odd numerals are replaced with inverted triangles, and the font is larger and chunkier.
Rolex continued to produce ref. 1655 until the mid-1980s. During its production, ref. 1655 received several bezel upgrades, including four production bezels and one service bezel categorized into marks one, two, three, and four.
Each Bezel Mark is distinguished by either thin or fat font. Additionally, the 24-hour scale circling the bezel either sits close to the edge of the bezel or is positioned more towards its center.
REFERENCE 16550
Rolex introduced the ref. 16550 next, which is considered a transitional model because it introduced the Explorer II to several upgrades, including a larger 40mm case, caliber 3085 Perpetual movement, and an independent arrow hand.
Because the arrow hand can be adjusted separately from the other hands, the bezel also acts as a dual-time indicator, not just an AM/PM feature.
The dial also received an upgrade with the iconic Mercedes hands and dot, rectangle, and triangle hour marker configuration.
Ref. 16550 was only produced for a few years before it was discontinued and replaced with ref. 16570 in the late 1980s.
It does feature several bezel variations, but they aren’t as clearly defined as ref. 1655.
Ref. 16570 and ref. 16550 are nearly identical, with the biggest difference between the two watches being the movement hard at work within the case.
During its production run, ref. 16570 used two different movements, caliber 3185 and 3186.
Two more Explorer II references have come to market since then, references 216570 and 226570.
They are both outfitted with the collection’s signature fixed 24-hour bezel with inverted triangles and feature a bright orange arrow hand on the dial as a tribute to the first ref. 1655.
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