So good and informational for a beginner like me.

I'm a complete beginner but even I winced at that finger in the gate. Certainly don't try that with gloves on. Also on the second biner the rope is passing over the gate - not recommended - turn the biner around. Do check out the video by Richard Lowenstrom in the comments here for the correct way to clip and unclip.

@neensbean

6 ай бұрын

I did too (the finger in the gate). lol. it was also multiple times...

Thanks for the video 🧡

Nice video.

Sticking finger into carabiner does not look like a good practice to me (i.e. you can easily injure you finger if you fall)

As everyone already commented, your fingers shouldn't pass through the gate (at least it shouldn't be recommended). Couldn't find any good videos for clipping techniques so I made this /watch?v=sxTigpe8hsQ Maybe it will help someone

Have never heard that happen, the method is perfectly safe

Great video! I'll be taking a lead climbing class soon and your videos are helpful! Where is this route you're climbing?

The pinch method described is potentially dangerous, as it forces you to pass your fingers through the gate as you clip. An accidental fall or slip while your fingers are passing through the gate could lead to a cut or broken finger. There are several safer ways to clip.

@ilgnir

7 жыл бұрын

Cody Hanson Exactly my concern with this video.

They may be safer ways to clip, but I find it far fetch to read people saying it will almost rip the whole arm if you do so. She's using 'wire gates', unlikely to rip a finger. I hope that people who said it was super dangerous do never put or lock their finger into a crack or a sharp ledge when their climb, because THAT would be even more dangerous ;) But yeah, I agree there'is better ways .... I'm just not so black and white about everything !

@hecatommyriagon655

4 жыл бұрын

It will deglove your finger, don't be stupid like her.

Wait so you don’t use them to garrote people?

"Notice how the rope is running over my pointer finger, so that when I fall at the moment I´m clipping, my finger will get caught between the biner and the rope. This ensures that I will climb like Tommy Caldwell after only a few months of recovery from the amputation."

@arson51

8 жыл бұрын

+Klaus Schmidt He lost his finger tip to a saw amputation. It was reattached than he had it removed again. Don't be dense.

@klausschmidt6089

8 жыл бұрын

+arson51 I don´t think you got the point of my comment, but hey, just go throwing around insults on the internet. Thing is, this clipping method is absolutely unsafe and should in no way be in a instructional video. People can get hurt badly with this! Completely irresponsable, and even with all the negative attention this video has gotten, it´s still up. Bad move, climbing magazine, bad move!

@eashby22

Жыл бұрын

​@@klausschmidt6089 getting your finger trapped under the rope during a fall would be physically impossible. The rope wouldn't be under any tension running through the carabiner until you were about four to five feet under. In other words your arm would have to be something like 6 ft long for that to happen. I have used and taught that clipping method for over 10 years. I happen to be a rock climbing instructor.

But I agree, the example is probably not the one.

ouch, this must be dangerous. Pls post a proper video with no risk to fingers

"this climb heads up generally left, so I wanna face my gate away from that, facing right" 3:40 climbing "left", proceeds to face the gate LEFT. Explain me.

@carefulcarrot

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, gate should face away. But she wanted to show how you’d clip it using the other method. Based on your confusion, she should have kept it pointing right and used the left hand instead. There’s def other videos with similar methods.

I stopped at the first "clip" in this video. When she makes the rookie mistake of pushing her finger through the gate like that, you know she doesn't know safety. If you fall while clipping like that, you'll deglove your finger. This video should be taken down, to not teach others to make a mistake like that.

@joshrathbun1

2 жыл бұрын

Also look at the very end of the video, at 3:46 you can see the gate is actually facing her and not away.

@abccanada6248

2 жыл бұрын

@@joshrathbun1 ive had alot of guides say that's mostly a myth tho tbf. But she did say not to do it in this video so it's nit great she doesn't follow her own practices. Pushing your finger through a gate can definitely be dangerous

I can't believe Climbing magazine posted this. This could possibly be the worst example of how to clip. Someone is going to end up getting there finger ripped off. also you need to explain why it is safer to have your gates facing the same direction. I disagree with that also.

@darrylcombe2469

6 жыл бұрын

Dave D I'm also trying to find rationale as to why draws must have the gates facing the same way.

@ddrmaier

5 жыл бұрын

@@darrylcombe2469 Because the strongest parts of the carabinas, the backs, are in line with the dogbone, this maximises the strength of the quickdraw in the event of a fall.