Rappel Knots
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Climbing magazine answers the age-old question of which knot is best used for joining two ropes in a double-rope rappel by showing how to tie the flat overhand, the knot recommended by the AMGA. We also show the triple barrel knot, which can be tied in the end of both ropes to keep you from rappelling off the rope.
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I like all the lessons that you have submitted tanks so much
Just remember to untie the knots in the ends of the rope BEFORE you try to pull the rope down. Nothing worse than having to re-climb to get your rope back. and if you only have one rope, finding someone near by to let you use their rope to re-climb. :)
@ethanbanich103
4 жыл бұрын
and if rappelling into an overhang via a swing, do not simply let the rope ends of of your hands when you reach the next anchor. The ends may fall out of reach, and you will be stranded on the wall. Even if you let ONE strand swing, if it has a stopper knot you will not be able to retrieve your rope during the pull.
It's always good to tie knots in the end of a rope to prevent rappelling off the end. In caving we generally use a bowline because it also provides a loop to put your foot into. In caving we single rope technique.
@Mrtaylorrulien
8 жыл бұрын
+Stan Tew I disagree. I always use a backup friction knot on my rappel so I can keep an eye on where the rope ends. The knots at the end of the rope have a tendency to get stuck when you toss each end. Just be careful and keep an eye on where the ends are when rappelling
@2caver
8 жыл бұрын
+Taylor Rulien Wow, a reply! I posted that a while go so I am surprised to see a reply. You are correct in that being careful and keeping an eye on the ends may be sufficient. I do most of my rope work in caves where the ends my be out of sight. Things are different outside in the daylight. Thanks for the reply, it shows me that someone actually red it and thought about it.
@antjedevries9598
5 жыл бұрын
Stan Tew
@sifatk6212
5 жыл бұрын
@@2caver still here reading and thinking of your replies!!!!
I always thought the EDK was given it's name because Toni Kurz used it to join two ropes in a last bid to save himself after cutting Angerer loose below him. He got stuck on this knot only meters away from his rescuers on the Eiger in 1936.
All good except "coiling to toss it". Very likely coils will catch each other during the rope's fall and end up a bit of a mess. You'll even notice they cut right at 3:06. Best practice is to "back stack" the rope from the anchor all the way to the ends, then gather about 5-6 coils off the top of the stack (both ropes) and toss. Should feed off the pile like well organized spaghetti ;)
@crossbowsniper
5 жыл бұрын
That's the exact method we used for military operations, and the exact same method we used as S&R when someone got stuck or fell, and we had to go get them. the "well organized spaghetti" is the best description i've heard of for how it fed....of course now we use a "drop leg" rig that the rope is very carefully stacked into, and feeds out of as we descend to our victim we're there to help. But you do have to give them credit for at least doing a very clear job of showing the two most common knots for people who are wanting to learn, bad coil toss or not. Was showing my step-sons this video before taking them to the indoor rock wall to start training them.
감사합니다 잘보았어요 즐거운 나날이 되세요
If anyone gets the bright idea that a 'flat figure eight' should be even better, THAT has been shown to migrate easily under body weight, so it is a death knot. I've never been shown how the flat overhand actually rides over grooves, cracks, etc. any better than a backed up double sheet bend, so excuse me for not jumping on the quick and easy bandwagon. I'm still alive 48 years after my first rappel, so have no reason to mess with success.
I have a few questions. Why not use the 8 knot to connect the two ropes together? Why not tie the lower ends of the ropes together so the rope forms a loop? If one end of the rope snags you rill meet the knot on the end of the rope when rapelling and you will have to go back up. If you connect them you can keep on rapelling below the knot. I also gave you a video commet to make life easier but I don't know if it worked.
nice
it's a good video but the camera angle when tying the knots should be filming the hands and rope so you can see what she's talking about. this video is mostly a shot of the climber describing the knots, like a horror film we need more close ups and gory details!
Would it be safe to join two fairly different diameter ropes such as a 9mm and a 10.2mm with this technique?
@davariyaamitkumar1003
6 жыл бұрын
Very Useful Rappelling KNOT for SOLO CLIMBER kzread.info/dash/bejne/hmpnmNysqty9ktI.html
@crossbowsniper
5 жыл бұрын
ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! YES in a pinch you CAN join to radically different rope diameters, HOWEVER if you are still alive at this point, I will say to you that it is NOT recommended and there is not a climbing/rappelling instructor worth their salt who would recommend such actions (joining radically different rope diameters).
Could you place a 'stopper knot' or 'fisherman's knot' as a back up knot behind the 'overhand knot'? Or would this be overkill or absolutely useless??
@kennywills8797
Жыл бұрын
When she mentioned 'death knot' due to slipping I thought the same thing. WTH there is 10 inches for it.
I don't know about you but if I'm joining two ropes I'm doing a Flemish Bend with overhand safetys on each side...
Hey is it ok to put the knot in between the two bolt hangers or is that dangerous?? For some reason the OCD side of me is bothered by it on one side or the other but if that is the rule I will do that.
@mehlingmi1
10 жыл бұрын
if you put it between the bolt hangers the knot will be stuck between the anchors and you wont be able to retrieve the rope once you are at the bottom
@connorbyram3649
8 жыл бұрын
+vampov You wouldn't be able to pull the rope down if you put the knot between the hangers
Can you use a figure 8 knot for the first one
@marcoantoniocoutinho
4 жыл бұрын
No. Figure 8 untied easily when used to connect two ropes. To same diameter you can use the "death knot" as demonstrated and for different diameters double Fisherman's knot is more indicated.
Look, when rock climbing the only knot you need to know is the Jack Ketch.
Please, what rope is it? Maker and type? Thank you very much
@joestevenson5568
4 жыл бұрын
That green rope looks an awful lot like a mammut one I own.
Would a double fishermans be sufficient for attaching two ropes for rappel?
@delayedinsanity
5 жыл бұрын
More than sufficient, if you want to spend that much time at the anchors. If you'd rather get on another route, or back to the icy cold beer at your campsite the overhand shown here is bomber.
@icychap
5 жыл бұрын
Double fisherman's is safer and no more likely to snag when pulling. Most accidents happen on descent, usually because people are tired, it's late in the day, weather is coming in, etc., and they're more concerned with expediency than focusing on adequate safety. Don't worry about "icy cold beer at your campsite," and instead focus on getting down in one piece. Take the few extra seconds. Any one of these knots should take less than 60s to tie.
@delayedinsanity
5 жыл бұрын
There is nothing unsafe about an overhand in this scenario. So, back to that icy cold beer!
Safer method is to use double fisherman's knot to join 2 ropes! Easier to untie as well.
@DonPatr0L
2 жыл бұрын
Sarcasm? :) Definitely not easier to untie after load has been applied
Why did he have two ropes in the first place?
@MrNattkreatur
7 жыл бұрын
A normal pitch is about 45-60 meters in length.
@icychap
5 жыл бұрын
Full length rappel.
I didn't know the words "overhand knot" even existed in the climbing community. That girl is super cute though.
That knots are not strong enough. It worse than 8 knot
@mrriotkayak
5 жыл бұрын
Not true!!! The over hand eight is a death knot!! It roles under much lower loads than the over hand.. Tied properly the over hand is a perfectly safe good knot for repelling.. the figure 8 follow through is stronger but easier to get stuck on things when pulling the rope down.. figure 8 follow through and figure 8 over hand are completely different knots the later will kill you!!
The first knot you definately do not need neither name nor instruction for. That knot is the intuitive knot for any five year old without instructions in need for one for that matches the purposes.
Feeding the ropes through your anchor points without a biner or chain wears your rope down really fast. If this is a safe knot you would use it when belaying. Noone does. The overhand weakens the breaking strength of the ropes and is a bitch to get up when it has been loaded. Even the water knot is only done on webbing.
@BAK87
7 жыл бұрын
The overhand knot actually is SAFE and recommended when rappelling off two ropes. You must leave the tails long enough and you're fine. Do some research in the official alpine/climbing instructors community.
No way should you trust the euro death knot. Just use the overhand 8. Also if you do bowline wrong the grim reaper pays a visit.
@ZeroContentSF
9 жыл бұрын
Unless you plan on repelling with 2,000 lbs of gear, the knot won't come undone.
@alextemus
6 жыл бұрын
The figure 8 rolls easier and MUCH faster than the EDK. Euro death knot's ability to roll has NOT been debunked, but just shown to be impossible under the loads you might experience in a rappelling situation (unless your car and your partner's car) is hanging off your rope as well.
@mrriotkayak
5 жыл бұрын
@@alextemus Over hand 8 is a death knot it roles under much lower loads that the over hand knot.. now a figure 8 follow through is I different story very strong knot but more prone to getting stuck when pulling rope down