An actual expert giving advice and dialog in his field. Refreshing, and very well done to boot. Contrast to so many instant Google experts pretending to know something, KZread is full of these unfortunately. Thumbs up.

I have been riding road tubeless for quite a few years now having invested in some Wheelworks built Panceti 23mm tubeless rims early on. In all that time I had one puncture that wouldn't seal (cut sidewall from a rock) that I still fixed with a spare tube, and one slow leak (from the valve) unfortunately on a race stage. Before going tubeless flats were just a regular part of riding your road bike. Now I just need to remind myself to top up the sealant once a year. So overall I'm a complete convert. My current 28mm tyres have survived a couple of Gravel & Tar events and feel great cruising the Taranaki chunky chip backroads at 60PSI. And my poor rims may just about be done as the sidewalls are looking a little thin on the brake tracks, but the wheels are still as true as the day I first got them, so full respect to Wheelworks.

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Kyle, that's great to hear you are a road tubeless convert. Having been in team cars at gravel and tar punctures seem like a right of passage... and you've done a couple events on them how awesome is that! Cheers for the support - Boston

I have ridden on tubeless road for 4 years using Stans Sealant in Schwalbe pro one. I ride in a very flinty area so in the winter I get a few punctures with embedded flints. For the holes that the sealant cannot fix I have used Stans Dart plugs. These can only be used on the bigger holes as they will tear themselves to bits if you try to push them through a small hole. In 30,000km I have not needed an inner tube to get home but still carry one. Enjoy the ride.

This is the best video about road tubeless that I've come across. I've run gravel tubeless before and this video is super honest about the pros and cons and how the road scenarios might change those compared to more off-road setups.

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the support!

I took Tristan's advise 18 months ago and went to tubeless (LBS at the time was recommending against them). Coming towards the end of life on my second set of 28mm GP5000s TL on Maker SLDs - lots of central-city / waterfront riding in Auckland (= glass and construction). I've only ever had one puncture that I knew about (nail in tyre) and that sealed itself fully after about 30s. Love the ride.

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome Geraint! I'm glad to hear it's working well for you! I won't go back now -Tristan

I was a GP5000 TLR (not TL) and Stans normal sealant user. To me the regular stans was just not up to the pressures, Stans race wont go through the valve. Muc off was my replacement and I've been a happy camper ever since. I had massive issued fitting the GP 5000, and it left me nervous that if I ever did get a puncture that wouldn't seal I'd never get an inner in. Eventually I swapped them out for Pirelli P Zero TLRs and I can get them on with my hands, it still isn't fun, but it is repeatable. The other tool I find essential is a dynaplug race. Now if I get a puncture I can plug it, if I lost too much pressure top it up with CO2 (Muc off is CO2 tolerant... sort of) and keep riding. This gives me the confidence to maintain the tubeless system myself without being reliant on the LBS for every puncture. I do expect you are right that GP 5000 + Stans Race is better for those with the skills to maintain them, but P Zeros + Muc off + Dynaplugs are the one stop shop for those that don't change tires every day and have given up on tubeless due to the difficult of home maintenance. Took me some trial and error, but definitely found what works for me.

Thanks Tristan ... fantastic summary and just what I needed to make the leap!

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

3 жыл бұрын

So cool to hear!

All well and good, BUT, in the event of a big slice theres no way one’s gonna get a tubeless tyre off and a tube in, remounted, on the side of the road. Cold hands, wet, tired.... hmm. They’re hard enough to get on without a tube - let alone with one! Thats why I’m sticking to standard clinchers.

@tristanthomas9293

3 жыл бұрын

The ease of install has improved a lot over the past few years with high quality tyre makers and companies who put some thought into how their rims are designed. I can install a pair of GP5000 TL tyres onto our AR and SL wheels without any tyre levers. I need a tyre lever to remove the tyre. Doing this on the side of the road is certainly way messier than a regular clincher because of the sealant but no more difficult. The tradeoff with (good) road tubeless is: Far, far fewer flat tyres in exchange for more PITA if/when you do get one. Personally I'm sold on tubeless now. I got my first non-sealable road tubeless flat tyre last week - a builders nail went into my 32mm Continental GP5000 TL and the sealant couldn't cope. Other than a bit of Stan's mess the whole thing wasn't any harder than a regular clincher and I was back on the road quickly. Personally I'll take that tradeoff over the frequent glass punctures that I normally get riding around the city here. -Tristan

@peterbee8892

3 жыл бұрын

My stans rims and schwalbe tyres can be fitted with a single tyre lever and could be inflated with a good pump. Getting a reliable tyre, rim comination that works is key so I stick to what works. Re large slash on sidewall these can be fixed with upto two stans darts to fill the gap.

Great video! interesting and good production

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you! Cheers!

I've been running MTB and gravel tubeless for years with virtually no problems. Don't think I've ever had to put a tube in on a ride for a puncture that wouldn't seal. Eventually went to road tubeless a couple of years ago and that's when all my troubles started. Long story short went back to tubes getting fed up pissing about with all that goo by the roadside. I come to the conclusion that tubeless only makes sense if you have less than 50 psi in your tyres. Any more than that and you are just asking for trouble at some stage. Might be fine for you guys getting Continental GP5000TL and Stans Race at cost but for ordinary mortals it is ridiculously expensive as well.

Great video, alot of useful info. What do you think about Vittoria Airliners with road tubeless? TIA.

I tried tubeless road for 12 months (Schwalbe One). Twice I got a cut in the sidewall which didn't seal and left me stranded. The sealant is mainly present in the tread of the tyre, and it just doesn't seem to cover the sidewall cuts. I'm back on clinchers as the taxi rides were expensive.

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

Жыл бұрын

Give the Continental GP5000 STR tyres and Stan's RACE (not the regular) sealant a go. Winning combo! -Tristan

Have you tried Silca tire sealant? Good stuff. Bob's your uncle.

Thx for this video. No flats with the GP 5000 TL until „worn down to the canvas“ - how many km/miles did you make with a pair?

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

2 жыл бұрын

I seem to be getting about 3000km on my 28mm tyres at 75psi front / 80psi rear. on an SL wheelset with a 22mm internal hooked bead on my Cannondale SuperSix Evo road bike, and weirdly I seem to be getting longer life on the 32mm tyres at 60psi on 27mm internal OG gravel wheels on my Creo commuter (cyclingtips.com/2020/06/bikes-of-the-bunch-specialized-creo-superpunteur/) . How many kms before you were seeing canvas? -Tristan

@adamcharles9090

Жыл бұрын

@@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels Interesting, I got almost 10000 on a front (didn't rotate, too hard!), the finish was horrible (cracked and nasty) the side walls were peeling off, but actually the wear indicator was still visible. I ended up changing wheels, so my GP 5000 is still alive as a "spare". The back wheel got a puncture that nothing would seal, plugs, internal patches, different sealants, wasn't that big, and was right in the middle, just must have been an odd shape. That said, despite my comment above, do think I got my money's worth!

Hints on removing dried sealant from your frame?

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

2 жыл бұрын

Get it wet and it should wipe off :-) -Tristan

Great summary. Two other points worth a mention: 1. Latex tubes with clinchers provide most of the gains with none of the hassles. They are more efficient, faster and comfortable than standard butyl tubes. 2. Tubeless requires periodic replacement of the fluid. Stan's recommends replacing the race fluid every few weeks, standard fluid every few months.

@WheelworksHandcraftedWheels

Жыл бұрын

Hi Michael. Latex tubes will not provide the puncture-resistance of a tubeless setup although do give a smooth ride. Please note that most carbon rim-brake manufacturers (us included) suggest you do NOT use latex tubes on a rim-brake wheel as they cannot manage the brake heat buildup as well as butyl. Our experience with the Race sealant in road and CX wheels is that it lasts a long, long time and maintains it's puncture sealing abilities. It seems to evaporate out of the mtb tyres reasonably quickly though. -Tristan

Agree about hookless... I mean why is this even a thing? What problem did this solve? It solved nothing, but worse, it created new problems.