I love my hand tapping machine, it's the same one you have. I've had problems with the little ball falling out. Since I tap mostly small holes I made a much shorter crank with only one handle.

For aluminum and other soft metals or plastic, I quit using straight flute taps a long time ago. The straight flute doesn't let the stringy chips leave, so they bunch up, jam the tap, and well, you're going to break something. I strongly suggest spiral flute taps, where the spiral flute guides the intact chip out of the hole, which prevents jamming/breaking of the tap. I just start the tap and go all the way in; no going back and forth. Once you try these, you will never, ever go back.

All industrial has these right now for a great price with free shipping!!!

I also have one of these (from Grizzly) and agree that it is a great way to tap straight holes quickly and easily. The biggest drawback is the lack of metric adapters for using metric taps.

Very cool. I have the same hand tapper. Just need to assemble it. Was wondering how well it worked. I got some threading to be done on solid steel round jackshafts. Have to get out my V-Block and see if I can mount it to hand tapper base. Thanks for video, very helpful.

@jryer1 - I've found the stock clamp works surprisingly well for holding things such as v-blocks. The "looseness" generally helps to let the tool self-align.

@WhidbeyOne011 - I agree about the metric adapter problem. They are on my list to manufacture once my business gets up and running.

i am looking for a similar device to modify to simply hold a small albrect type chuck--there is zero reason to be using the collets. Whats the vice thing going on with trying to line things up--simply hold the part with your hand and float all the holes in at top speed. The huge handle is to big and could be replaced and shortened. I may get one and strip it apart and redo it from the ground up including paint.

I find it hard to believe that little machine shop would have anything half the price of anybody else! They’re usually so much more expensive than everybody else is for the same stuff!

Judging by the way you had to turn the tap in and then out the tap used here was either dull, the hole was too small, and lubricant would help. Lubricant helps more on aluminum than steel due to the softness. With a good sharp tap. the right sized hole, and lube you can turn the tap all the way through the hole virtually as easy and fast as if you were turning a screw into a well tapped hole, with almost no resistance at all. There is a difference in the quality of taps, good production type taps are well worth it.

@LemonySnicket-EUC

4 жыл бұрын

And they will all last longer with this technique.

@greg9403

3 жыл бұрын

@@LemonySnicket-EUC I bet he drill over size holes and never snapped a tap.

I bought the same one for $150 at MSC, however I just opened the box and no manual! Is the assembly self explanatory or should I ask for a manual?

The workpiece seems to be moving around as the spindle is turned. Does that mean there is significant runout between spindle axis and tap axis?

@jfbrink

3 жыл бұрын

At the start, there is movement from the tap self-centering in the work piece. The subsequent movement is from the fact that the piece is only loosely held so that self-centering can take place. So, even though the issue is not run out, you still cannot expect the threads to be precisely concentric with the original hole. That said, for most applications, it's plenty accurate.

I recommend the appropriate tapping fluid for the appropriate metal. Tapping fluid vastly extends the life of expensive taps and improves the quality of the threads being tapped. Aluminum specific tapping fluid makes a huge difference in aluminum, as does stainless steel specific fluid in stainless steel. I keep three different types of tapping fluid in the shop at all times, SS, aluminum and steel specific. Never tap blind holes without fluid. Snapping off a tap in a value added part is a real costly heartbreak. Don't buy cheap taps. Look for the best. It is worth it. Special coatings are worth it. For ropy metals, helical tap designs are worthy of consideration, despite the added cost. If a specific tap is key to your production, have a backup tap on hand at all times. Taps will always break at the most crucial moment in a production schedule, for example, on a Friday afternoon on the eve of a three day holiday with all suppliers closed and your promised deadline is next Tuesday and your first born has been sworn into risk. The moment you go for your backup tap, take a moment to order its replacement. Do not delay or defer. The same goes for crucial drill and router bits. There are US made tappers, such as those made by Blake Tools of NJ that are of much superior quality and adaptability. I own a Blake Tool tapper and also a device just like the one in this video. The tapper shown here is an inelegant tool that usually sits in the corner. The only thing it has going for it is it's exceptional depth of throat and capacity for some larger pipe taps I use on occasion. The collets are crude at best, as is the detente system that holds them on the tapper shaft. Replace all the brittle, slotted, collet set screws with some quality steel alloy, Allen cup, set screws. My 4.5" swing, Blake Tool tapper is adapted to use a cordless Milwaukee 2 speed screw driver motor to increase the speed of tapping. I can also chuck up a 3/8" or 1/2" cordless drill drive motor for larger taps. I can precisely tap a dozen 4-40, 6-32, 8-32 or 10-32 holes/minute in 1/4" thickness, R-59, plastic parts. No tapping fluid is required for plastics. I have another screw drive motor on hand with a 1/4 drill chuck adapter holding a HSS six flute deburring cutter to debur holes on both side as I go. I generally apply tapping fluid to taps with a small solderer's brush trimmed very short. I trim the brush short to save on expensive tapping fluid and reduce drips and splatter in my nice clean shop. I store my tapping fluids in spill proof cups designed specifically for the purpose of dispensing tapping fluid, best thing ever. A couple of massive tapping fluid spills was inspirational in this regard. I usually apply the fluid to a tap every second or third hole, depending on the performance of the tap. On tougher metals, I just hold the fluid brush to the tap and leave it there. There is a lot of "feel" involved in manual tapping, especially with #1, #2 and #4 taps. The awkward handle on the tapper in this video is better suited to taps 5/16" and larger. When that handle is spinning and you are going fast, it will remove skin and flesh from your fingers at an alarming rate due to the poor degree of finish on the horizontal rectangular portion of the crank. Never figured out what that clamp thingy is for. I use a plain jawed Palmgren 2.5" precision machine vise to hold small parts. The vise lives right on top of the Blake Tool tapper bed, dedicated and ready to go. I have a second 2.5" Palmgren with a V-groove jaw for end tapping small rounds. For really large objects and large taps, I can always disconnect the 24" drill press arbor return spring and turn the 3/4" drill chuck by hand letting gravity and the tap's self feeding provide the down force. The 4.5" Blake Tool tapper can be placed directly on large objects that have holes too far into the center to reach in a conventional setup. The tapping head rotates away from the tapper bed 180 degrees which makes its capacity to tap holes in larger objects somewhat unlimited. Good luck to all you tappers out there.

@LemonySnicket-EUC

4 жыл бұрын

You should make a video and share it.

No oil????

Now it's $129 plus $37 shipping to my door from your vendor.

Going rate now days has doubled since 2011.

@trialnterror

10 ай бұрын

It’s on sale at all industrial for 97.99 free shipping sept 2023 great deal of you’ve been wanting one!