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Replacing the Failing Radiator Fan and Motor on my Cheap W220 S-Class

The radiator fan on my $2000 S-Class was making a ton of noise when I turned the AC on, so today we're replacing the fan shroud assembly!
While we're in there, we're also replacing the serpentine belt.
Shortcuts:
0:00 - Intro
1:03 - Fan shroud prep
3:07 - Draining the cooling system
6:39 - Fan shroud removal
7:01 - Replacement candidates
9:19 - Serpentine belt replacement
12:12 - Fan shroud install
14:32 - Fan shroud connector and bolts
16:03 - Coolant refill
20:32 - Outro

Пікірлер: 19

  • 3 ай бұрын

    Once again my favorite KZread mechanical genius has done it again..... with cool calm demeanor, simple clear instructions, he goes thru the process with humility and self confidence...... A+ for the work.....I enjoy watching and listening to his videos immensely....Thank you, my friend....

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    3 ай бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @rjkulman8990
    @rjkulman89903 ай бұрын

    changing coolant is an important maintenance thats needed at least every 2 yrs its never a bad thing to do, better than a $500 rad/fan.

  • @gloriadejuana5131
    @gloriadejuana51313 ай бұрын

    Thanks for yet another great video!

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    3 ай бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @Robtheautoguy
    @Robtheautoguy3 ай бұрын

    A metal fan shroud with a motor the size of a small starter?! Talk about overbuilt.

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    3 ай бұрын

    Yeah! I'm a little surprised Mercedes only sells it as a whole assembly, I feel like the set up is perfect for having both the fan and motor serviceable.

  • @rjkulman8990
    @rjkulman89903 ай бұрын

    have a benz ( 2000 C280/w202) I see you have an E-11 tensioner ( mine is E10) how would you release tension IF the tip broke off. That is my current situation. The 2nd bolt holding the tensioner is behind it. Would like to know if you have any suggestions, tks. Am enjoying / learning your various fixes.

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    3 ай бұрын

    I'm not sure exactly, but I think you have two options. You could cut the belt then replace the tensioner and belt, or you could undo the nut that holds the pulley on the tensioner and try to slide the pulley off along with the belt, then replace the tensioner. I think cutting the belt is probably the safer option, but be careful either way.

  • @rjkulman8990

    @rjkulman8990

    3 ай бұрын

    @@frenchineer been thinking along those lines as well... but can remove the top pulley, which I recently replaced, its just a T50 screw. that will allow tension to be reduced, and I can move the belts. I have a new belt and tensioner, will also try and remove bolt of broken tensioner and slide the plastic pulley forward, hopefully I will be able to access the "hidden" screw. dont wanna cut the belt, as that will leave me with only an option to have the car towed to my indy. It would be my last option. THANKS for your insight/suggestion ( good luck with your "S" class projects. would love to have a junkyard to go to, as a plan B. There arent any large junk yards in Brooklyn NY ( anymore)

  • @rjkulman8990

    @rjkulman8990

    3 ай бұрын

    @@frenchineer well good news, after about 2 hrs and a few bruised knuckles, its installed. I took your 2nd suggestion and removed the 15mm bolt holding the tensioner and pulley. I first removed the top pulley, that gave me lesser tension of the belt. This experience has given me a new insight into the fact that not all tools are the same, some better than others. I also realized the external e-torx are flimsy. I was somewhat paranoid about breaking another one in the process. After 20 years these e-torx are difficult to remove, even when lubricated. Thanks for your suggestion, I felt a lot more confident as a result of it. I was overly careful and deliberate

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    3 ай бұрын

    That's great to hear! I think the E-Torx as a tensioner release point wasn't a great idea being that small, but my experience with them in normal bolt applications has been pretty good luckily. Did you get a new tensioner with the updated tension release point? I'm not really familiar with northern NJ/NYC area junkyards, but if you're able to venture out further, Harry's U-Pull it in Allentown could be an option for you. They list their vehicle inventory online which is nice!

  • @robertehlers4330
    @robertehlers433010 күн бұрын

    Frien replaced now he smoking the 60amp fuse he asked me to take a look what am I getting into?

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    10 күн бұрын

    Assuming it's a pre-facelift like this one, it could be the motor or the fan bearing. Depending on the radiator hose, removing the fan assembly requires draining the cooling system like in the video, but in some cases the hose doesn't have the same hard plastic section and you can remove it without draining anything.

  • @robertehlers4330

    @robertehlers4330

    10 күн бұрын

    @@frenchineer motor changed when I discovered battery and reconnect it only runs high. Maybe control module or plug or wire poppin70amp og he replaced hole Sam he melted it

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    10 күн бұрын

    It could be the control module then, which is not on the fan shroud assembly. It should be near the airmatic pump.

  • @squarrl
    @squarrl3 ай бұрын

    who keeps putting green coolant in German cars? I don't know of a car made in the last 15 years that uses green coolant

  • @frenchineer

    @frenchineer

    3 ай бұрын

    I think in this case it was whoever did the water pump. I’d guess they didn’t carry the Mercedes fluid so they flushed the system and put in the green stuff. It also happened on the Range Rover sport before I got it.

  • @CL500MBZ

    @CL500MBZ

    3 ай бұрын

    ​@@frenchineer why didn't you flush the system and put in the correct fluid. At the same time you can also change the thermostat and the coolant temp sensor. Regardless it's a great video

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