Getting a fair amount of comments regarding concern about the rot "re-spreading" to the new wood. I'd like to address in a pinned comment here: First of all; Mold spreads. Fungus spreads. Dead, dried out rot in the absence of moisture, does not. Yes, I agree that if I took new wood and fastened it against wet, moldy, living rot, then I am going to have a world of issues down the line. That’s not the case here. In my situation, any living mold in the damaged areas was first completely annihilated by spraying a ridiculous amount of bleach onto the joists, sill plate, ledger board and foundation wall. I let it soak in. Then applied more. Let that soak in. Then applied more. This applying, soaking, reapplying process took place over the course of days, not minutes or hours. Nothing could survive inside the core of any remaining wood. Next I started the drying out process. I ran a dehumidifier from down below directly under damaged area. Keep in mind this was during the time that the floor was already completely opened up. This was back in January - February so not only was the dehumidifier sucking moisture from below, but from above everything was drying out with the aid of a heated, climate controlled first floor. (Ever notice how dry the air is indoors in the dead of the winter when you are running your forced air Central HVAC furnace?) After one day, everything was dry to the touch. But I left it open for 2 - 3 weeks! Dehumidifier running 24/7 and first floor thermostat maintaining my typical winter time schedule. The video may only run 15 minutes but the first minute took place about a month before the actual construction work began. There is nothing living (nor wet) left to “spread” as any darkened wood you still see in the video is no longer rot, it's just dried out discolored wood. Not to mention, to this day I still run the dehumidifier on a cycle for general basement moisture control. Even if there was ZERO structural integrity left in the old joists (which is not even close as it was holding up the house for 12 years while the leak slowly did it’s damage - not a typo - 12 YEARS), none of that old wood is required for any structural support anyway. Absolutely none of it. Not the 3 damaged joists, not the old sill plate, not the ledger board. Everything is now supported with new reinforced structure. I actually went way overkill making this stronger than the original. 1. 3/4" ply sandwiched in the Engineered TJI joists to strengthen what was damaged.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

AmazingZed Construction screws. Long enough to go thru one side, into the TJI and then grab the other side. I put a few in from both directions. This way it really pulls them in tight to the existing joist.

@ramaporiver803

4 жыл бұрын

That is the longest reply I've ever seen..........

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

@@ramaporiver803 I am very detail oriented!

@will201084

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing your experience. Best to ignore the people commenting that do not have their own videos/solutions, as those people tend to suck IMO :)

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

@@will201084 Haha! Thanks for that. I totally welcome intelligent suggestions and other ways of doing things. Like the guy who recommended the wood filler pertrifier. That was smart a suggestion and something I will do if I have a similar experience in the future. But then there's the dope that claims the whole job is a fail because I didn't use glue. Idiots like that can suk it. Thanks for the comment!

Oh my. I remember fixing my floor after my water heater went through it. Never thought I’d get it done and that was probably 12 years ago. Listened to your video because I’ve got to now fix the floor under our fridge and replace our bathtub. I truly don’t think I’ve got it in me anymore. Your awesome video made me cry with frustration. It sucks getting old. Sucks more with lupus. But I’ve at least gotten a refresher course on just how difficult it’s going to be for me. So thank you for sharing this.

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with the repair and prayers to your health.🙏

Bro.. I totally feel you. I was not aware that the joists were so rotted out.. what began as a weekend project to move our toilet 6 inches away from the bathtub turned into full replacement of several joists and adding a couple of beam supports. All by myself.. 😂

Those cuts for the joist fills you did were precise as hell - filled the cavity perfectly!

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Table saw to get them exact. Appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching.

Exquisite orchestration. Clearly, you’re the maestro of home remodeling.

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

Probably the single greatest comment I've ever gotten on my channel... THANK YOU!

He is a miracle repairer. I like that Guy. He reminds of the Guy in NYC when he was replacing a old and nasty toilet. He said," You Guys asked why I use gloves(with a sarcastic look) Lol! He is smart!

You know to be honest with you I thought you did a hell of a job with what you had. I was very impressed with your shoring up the rotted areas and I doubt anyone could have done anything better without tearing that whole wall and floor out. You should be proud of the job you did.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thank You very much. Appreciate you watching and commenting.

MIke: I appreciate this video very much. Most of the youtube stuff is just about replacement. In this you actually fixed something. I've had to do this many times. No instruction manual, just brain. Thanks.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. Appreciate you taking time to watch.

I tried and tried but took me forever. Such hard work and you can't just rig it. My brother, thank goodness, knows everything.

@DieselMike

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching. It's always good to have a capable hand available to help you.

Great job Mike, thanks for filming and explaining the process.

You are a badass. We love how you repaired this. Thank you for putting together these vlogs.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind comment. Appreciate you taking the time to watch. Did you watch the basement build? I'm more proud of that one. Here's the playlist: I have yet to post a final walk through: kzread.info/head/PL6rvPn4fy9Y3SwjSk5Iy7dlN5fC4cpuAZ

Diesel Mike - thanks for taking the time to post this video and show the level of detail. I'm having the same issue in a bedroom - probably less difficult as I have no plumbing to deal with. I especially appreciate the sharing of the ideas and talking through the plumbing and electrical details. Makes a project like this far less intimidating.

Always nice to see a great plan executed when he pulled up that first joist to the exsisting sub floor he left. Good job.

At first it appeared lots lots of work but you made it look so easy...I'll say very good job done here....learned thing or two...thank you for making this video..

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks man. Appreciate it.

This video is PERFECT! I have to make a similar repair and this explains it step by step so I can duplicate. Thank you so much!

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Crystal - Thanks for the comment - Take time to read my pinned comment right below the video. I explain in detail how I went about killing all the mold - Once it's dead it must be DRY, DRY DRY. Also read through the comments by others - I have been highly criticized for not cutting out the old, dead rot on the joists. They are idiots. They don't understand that something dead and dry biologically can not re spread. If I cut out entire sections of joists, I would have highly lost the integrity of the structure of the floor - not improve it! But there is some discussion in the comments where one guy talks about treating the wood with a "petrifier" - I would certainly look into that. I liked his idea as yet another step in this process. Good Luck!

@margaret.alderidge

4 жыл бұрын

@@DieselMike thank you so much. Will do

Awesome job.

Great work!!

Not everyones able to straight up replace this stuff right now. Thanks for shlwing us your process for a rather sturdy repair

Great job you found the right places to cut out the damaged wood sections!

This is gonna help with with a rotten subfloor from a leaking shower. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

Bro, I love your demeanor. I was cracking up along the way watching. I have a similar situation going on in a few rental units in the bathrooms. The old hot/cold shower valves have failed. I had just recently fell into these units out of misfortune which sounds odd but it is what it is. Now, I've gotta make these puppies fly. So I've had a little learning to do in that regard as the water has rolled behind the water backing board and has done some rot there. This gave me a few good ideas for remedy. Thanks.

@DieselMike

11 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching and the kind comment. Good luck with your project.

Great video. Wish I'd watched it before I did my repairs. The sistering of the ply to strengthen the joists was a great idea.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. I got the idea from a career framer.

Great resource - thank you for sharing !!

Good job 👍

I have this problem in bathroom. Toilet is sinking! Waiting on nailer, pancake compressor, etc...ready to tackle it early this coming Saturday! Nice job by the way!

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your project.

Good looking replacement

Great job and explination. You are truly acraftsman and I hope to do as good a job fixing my own similar situation.

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching. Appreciate the comment.

Not a bad job there Mike. I haven't had to work on Floor Joist like that yet, good to know about the 3/4 plywood idea.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Appreciate the comment. They are called TJI Joists. I got the suggestion to strengthen with the 3/4" ply from my framer who originally built my home. As I explain in my pinned comment above, he felt that alone would have been sufficient. (I think he would have changed his mind once everything was opened up). But I decided to go the extra mile by sistering the joists, installing a new sill plate and giving extra support to the who structure by building a partial 2 x 6 support wall in the basement. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.

Great work sir. This is not fun stuff to deal with but you certainly made the best of it.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thank You! Appreciate you taking the time to comment and watch.

I like you, keep it simple and informative. Greetings from Norway Koos

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. That's my goal. Provide a bit of info in a condensed video. Appreciate it.

Great job!.., well explained in full details.

@DieselMike

9 ай бұрын

Appreciate the kind comment. Thank You!

Great video my man

man knows what he's doing 😁 thank you !

Thank you for your information.

Wow, incredible skill here and you really know what you're doing....videos like this are great because they show that even when the problem looks hopeless it can be redone with someone who has the knowledge, skill and experience...Thank you for showing how...Awesome job!

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Appreciate the comment and you taking the time to watch.

some solid work sistering those joists!

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Appreciate the compliment.

Gave me good insight. Thanks!

ah man I'm doing this now, and ugh, I don't know what I'm doing though. Nice video to help out!

well done you did a fine job

Good work sir!

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for the comment!

Quality work.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks. Appreciate it.

This is the route I was thinking of going. Sister in joists given they are same size as exsisting and smash in a 2x4.

Outstanding

Excellent. I've had similar situation. People leave plumbing leaking away for years. Scary!!! I cut out rotted timber and then treated the junction with good wood with a hardener which was surprisingly good

@thenman23

3 жыл бұрын

yes my mom did this, I live with just her for most my life and it's time for me to man up and replace these things and improve everything. including quality of life.

Nice fix.

Thank you for your video at 57 I brought my first home it was a rental the owner lived in Florida and he owns 17 house's here (Illinois) he was spent no money on them I had the house inspection by a rookie he did not earn his money .just wanted to thank you for showing me that's its not All bad things can be resurrected.and you kept your cool through the whole process even through a lot of work videoing running for me materials camera angles just to share thank you for blessing me .I needed that after being up since 2:30 a: m wondering how could a owner sell something like my house without conscience.thank you.

Great video

wow, nice fix

@DieselMike

5 жыл бұрын

Thank You! Appreciate you watching.

Did it work? Yes! Was it ideal? No. Will it last a long time? Probably so. Good Job.

Thanks good job!

This video is strangely very satisfying to watch... ASMR at its best

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Haha. Not exactly what I was going for. But I'll take it! Thanks for the comment and taking the time to watch.

Mike, we all do things differently. I think this fix could take a direct hit and survive. Get that nasty plywood out and it will be fine. You done good.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah. I think I went a little overkill. But I wanted to to it once and do it right. Thanks for taking time to comment.

Big job for a single man!

Good video I will soon be getting to do that at my house.

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Sorry took so long to reply. Hope it worked out for you.

Technic and finished work looks very good. I was concerned about the damaged/rotted wood as well. But Im not educated enough to comment on that. Nice job, bro...

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and commenting. 3 years counting and holding up as good as new. No more moisture. No more rot.

@steviedickson4736

Жыл бұрын

@@DieselMike Beautiful!!

I am always amazed seeing the electric installations , don't understand so close to the water lines

In that drain pipe T connector is used and i think (i might be wrong) it is not up to the code because T forms a sharp 90 degree which is prone to clogging . What you need there is Y connector (or what ever it is called) so 90 degree turn will not be that sharp.

Well Done

It would have been a good idea to allow all of that area to dry out, then apply KIJZ a shelak based sealer to contain the mold and remove all of the rotted wood and rebuild the I joists then add the reinforcing to the I joists, sill plate, and rotted wall studs. Then the exterior sheathing.

@eligebrown8998

3 жыл бұрын

Read his post at the top of comments. He killed the mold with bleach over a few days.

Madd skills!

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

Appreciate it. Thanks for watching.

Thanks man

I'm in the process of repairing a similar rot problem in my outside deck where pressure-treated joists have begun to rot. Some of them are just impossible to remove as numerous joists are coupled to them. I've dug out much of the old rot and coated the remainder with creosote before and after reinforcing with new wood and replacing decking. But now, that's Florida which is often another word for mildew........................

In order for you to properly reinforce and sister an existing support or wood member all damage (including rot) needs to be removed entirely. Attaching more wood to existing rot damage is never a good idea because fungus decay will begin to rot the adjacent wood members. As soon as a moisture source feeds the fungus again, air ventilation problem, plumbing leak, siding leak or etc etc....that rot WILL come back with a vengeance. Glad its your home your working on.

@rasra9957

4 жыл бұрын

What about removing dry rot and sister it with pressure treated wood. Or painted wood.

@Flielow

4 жыл бұрын

@@rasra9957 That is the preferred repair method. Cut out the damage install new like wood or PT wood then sister and re support.

@drbendaroo9610

4 жыл бұрын

@@Flielow I'm not in the construction business and immediately thought all of the rot should be removed. Its a little concerning that the rot hasn't been removed. Troubles a brewin'.

@stifflers69mom1

4 жыл бұрын

Rich Bove he did use PT wood by the time is a problem...it will be someone else’s problem

@mikebottorff593

Жыл бұрын

Where im from we would say (butcher) 😂

Doing the same thing right now to my cabin. Plus leveling the whole floor across the back half , by myself which is ok but slower.

I heard you perfect thank you 👏👏👌

3:17 when the guy living under your house comes out and sees how you fixed the subfloor

wow more damage than i originally thought it would be based on your last video

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

No doubt. It surprised me as well. Water leaks are certainly the silent killer.

I can see how you’ve gone about it, but I might have done it a bit differently. I would have made the ply reinforcement at least as long as the timber you used to sister them with. I also would have glued and screwed them, the strength of the connection is multiple times as secure. Otherwise, a job well done. A hell of a lot of damage to find though. I’ve had a similar experience recently.

My sink area exactly.

Thanks so much ! This looks almost exactly like my issue. Except my house has no slab and the water damage extends an additional 4 ft to the right where the washing machine drain pipe is.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Good Luck. Hope this helped.

I have a trailer with a bend in the floor , 79 trailer trying level it just put in the subfloor but didn't tie down the uneven side

He should of i immediately treated the floor joist plywood in any wood that he didn't remove that had mold damage. It very important to treat for mold damage. Other than that he did do a pretty good job.

@richochett404

4 жыл бұрын

he said in the comments that he treated the wood over several days then dried it out and ran a dehumidifier but didnt include that in the video.

I dont understand why everyone goes nuts on videos like these raising the floors and none of them are retrofittting them. This seems like the way to go.

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Yup. I think it stronger than the original at this point. Thanks for watching.

Hey Diesel Mike. Nice work, but I'm concerned about code and environmental issues here in Canada. I'm pretty sure Pressure Treated wood isn't allowed for interior framing as well as if plywood sistering of the the TJI would satisfy the inspector. Appreciate the Vid, effort and commitment to quality work. Love from Kingston, Ontario

I have a subfloor in what looks like oak or pine, it's hard stuff but looks like oak in color. Should I rip that off and lay the 3/4 floor panels or, add it to it. I've already ripped off three layers above this.

Great job I have to do work in attic Thanks

Did they put like fir strips on top of the beams back in the old days? Ive seen that a lot before on

Question i have the same issue in my house, being that this is a load bearing wall would i have to not only support the joists but also the roof with an additional wall built on the subfloor? I see you got away with not supporting the roof(as far as i can see) would you say i could get away with that too as long as it’s a small section like yours?

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

In my case the roof (second floor for my situation) was never unsupported. Notice the damaged area I replaced was under a window. The jack and king stud on each side of the window was never touched. With any window (or door for that matter) there will be a header over the window supported by the jack and king. That is what supports the entire second floor (or roof). Now the studs I pulled out below the window I would describe as "supplemental load bearing". What I mean by this is: go to 6:35 in the video where I pull out the last of the studs. Notice each edge of the window is still supported on each end by a stud (which is securely sitting on solid, undamaged flooring). I was confident that this would be enough to "hold up" the window until I re built a wall under the window. I mean think about how much is holding the window in place as it is: It's nailed into the header above, as well as the studs on the sides. For the 45 minutes the window was partially supported ended up not being an issue. My questions for you would be: Are you working under a window like I am here? How many "true" load bearing studs do you need to replace? And how damaged is the sub floor below each stud? Every situation is different. But you absolutely need to support the floor above you when pulling out damaged studs. If you need to replace a decent size section of the sub floor and load bearing studs, you are going to have to build a temporary wall far enough away from the existing wall that would sit on "good, solid, undamaged flooring while you tear apart and re build the damaged wall. Once complete, you would disassemble your temporary wall. Hope that helps.

I might be wrong but after I rough fitted all of that I would have lifted it up and crop dusted that area with boric acid. Looks like a little water damage left behind.

@DieselMike

Жыл бұрын

Everything got a healthy dosing of bleach. Any living mold was nuked and no new water has been introduced to revive it. As far as the rotted wall. That was replaced from the outside shortly after the video.

So how do you connect the plywood to the new studs without removing the siding

I wish Mike would come to my house and do mine. This has happened to the kitchen.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Thank You for the kind words. Appreciate you taking the time to comment and watch. Good luck with your kitchen. Hope this gives you some tips.

I’m curious about the wall you built underneath. Is your crawlspace floor level with a dirt floor? Thanks for video

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

No - It is all sub grade like the rest of the basement. One side has driveway opposite the foundation, another has the garage, another has the rest of the basement, and the fourth foundation wall (the one directly under my kitchen window where I built the support 2 x 6 wall) has a sloping paver patio outside.

What size plywood you use to sister in the new joists?

Good stuff. (what the hell did we do before the oscillating Saw) your comment about rot not spreading in dry wood. true, but with the caveat that the wood does not have to be wet to have rot spread slowly. I generally spray this stuff down with a borate type wood treatment. It does not take a lot of time and does not cost a lot. I would be concerned about the engineered joists. A few of them the top cord was completely gone, and there is only a couple 3 feet of new stuff on it. This is a high stress part of the joist. I would have thought about putting in 8' 2x10's down below.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

You make a good point about the tops of some of those engineered joists. Which is why I went so overkill with all the reinforcements. With the way I chose to do this, I realized that the top of those old joists are doing very little in terms of structure. That was the purpose of the sistered joists. Even though they are only about 3.5 - 4 feet long, one end sits atop a new sill plate on the foundation wall. And the other end is supported by my new 2 x 6 support wall in the basement (which also grabs plenty of the undamaged engineered joists). I don't think the length of the joists are as important as the wall that supports them underneath (as shown at 1:40). Thanks for the excellent comment. Appreciate taking the time to watch.

Im remodeling my kitchen. So far I have my subfloor and cement board laid. As I walk over some areas sink is that normal ? Or will the cement layer thinking and stiff the floor for when I lay tile ?

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

No, it's not normal. If there is movement in the subfloor, something is not right. I would not lay tile over a subfloor that bends and sinks in some areas. Recipe for cracked tiles.

I've done carpenter work for years and I've never seen that like that.

Not bad but I would have replaced those rotten joists. I would glued and screwed everything including the pressure treated supports you hammered in. You have to be very careful about breathing in all that mold and copious amounts of purple PVC glue you applied. Best to wear a ventillator, eye protection, etc. I would have replaced those copper pipes while I was in there as well. When gluing the PVC, mark the pipe so you know when it is fully seated and evenly seated. Also, drains need to be gently sloped ~1.5% or a little over 1/8" drop per foot. No more- no less. The idea is to have the water swirl upon exiting the pipe which cleans it better. If it is too steep it only runs our the center of the pipe, leaving the sides unlcean. They have tools you can use to precisely measure the drop.

PA glue and epoxy paint. I don't do wet stuff without epoxy paint anymore.

classic, punching the drywall out lol

My 8 x 8 sills are rotted like that on a 1880 built house balloon construction. I was devastated when I saw it.

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

8 x 8 !! Good Lord - 140 years old. I'd say that thickness has help up over the ages. Good luck with repair.

Should have wire brushed all the rot out use some wood petrifier and fill it in with PC woody. Leavint that rot in there and it will just spread.

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

Hey. Thanks for the comment. The wood petrifier is a great idea. In my case I'm quite confident there is no chance of any bad stuff spreading. After I opened the floor I killed it with a ridiculous amount of bleach, which I let soak deep into the wood. Then for weeks I allowed the dry out process to occur by running a dehumidifier below as well as the opening to be exposed to a climate controlled living area above. There's certainly no living mold left to spread.

I find it funny when people claim Manufactured/Mobile homes are build so badly.... but yet they live in houses with OSB Floor Joist's. I'd never live in one of those garbage sub division homes not trying to sound like an a$$ in anyway it's just these newer houses are built so fast and so cheap not to mention they're 10ft apart and cost a ridiculous amount. I'll take a good built Clayton or a Palm Harbor Double Wide or Triple Wide any day over these "Houses" Easier to work on and better built in my opinion they have real 10x2 Floor Jost's 2x6 Walls, Steel Strapping from the floor frame to the walls and then 2x6 and 2x4 Ceiling joist's which are all tied together with steel strapping you also have a steel frame under neither will never crack etc. 150,000 For that and 50 to 100 Grand for an acre or 2. I'll take that vs a house that will crumble in the first 10 years of it's life on a concrete foundation. Manufactured homes are not like the old fashion "Trailers" like everyone thinks they're actually better then 90% Site built Brick Garbage 70's/80's homes and modern subdivision homes.

Does code allow to drill 1-1/2” holes through a king stud?

@DieselMike

4 жыл бұрын

I believe that's why there was so many extra studs originally under the window. To compensate for the large holes that allows the drain pipe to pass through.

Wow what a mess that was

Mike, you did an awesome job on that rotted studs and joists. That would have saved you couple thousand dollars easily. Q: in my kitchen and adjoining family room, I feel the vibration in the floor when we walk over it. We had structural engineer come over and he said the joists underneath only has one line of cross braces that joins joists. He told me to put another line 2-3 feet’s apart and that will solve the issues. What do you think about it?

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching and commenting. As for your situation, it's tough for me to give an opinion without seeing it. That said, what your S.E. is telling you makes sense. Adding an extra support wall under the floor, perpendicular to your joists would never harm anything. It would only give it more support. I'm not sure what you mean by 2 - 3 feet apart. If you build a support wall, the studs should be 16" on center. Now, the vibration may have nothing to do with the joists being inadequately supported. It may be a faulty subfloor (The 3/4" layer of plywood that sits directly on the joists.) Perhaps it wasn't fastened properly to the joists, or perhaps a lesser quality plywood was used (i.e OSB board, or 1/2" ply, etc). What kind of finished floor is in your kitchen and family room? Tile? Hardwood? Carpet?

@nvshahnik

3 жыл бұрын

@@DieselMike thank you for your quick reply. my kitchen floor has Vinyl. When I remove it ti replace with tile or different material, I can check the base floor and I’m pretty sure it’s loose too. When I said another line of those cross bracing between joists at 2-3 ft apart means, there is only one line of cross braces goes across the room between joists. So there isn’t enough support for rest of the width of the remaining joists. Hence, he asked me to add another line of continuous cross bracing. I can send a picture of what I’m talking about. But not sure how I can do it here.

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

@@nvshahnik Yes. Now I understand. Sure that makes sense and might be worth doing.

That floor joist repair is original but it probably won't pass any real inspection. I have yet to find a good video on how to replace a floor joist in an existing house.

@Loonypapa

Жыл бұрын

Floor joist repairs by their nature are non-prescriptive (not in any code book), so a building inspector isn't going to waste his time laying his eyes on it. Typically they require a local structural engineer to put together a repair plan and sign off on it. That is how building code officials treat non-prescriptive building elements and repairs.

How long are each of the joists that you sistered in? I have the same problem that was "fixed" by the previous owners. How long are they supposed to be? 50% of the length of the regular?

@DieselMike

3 жыл бұрын

There is no formula. It depends how far away from the sill plate that the rot infiltrated the joist. Your newly sistered joist needs to extend beyond the weakened joist enough that it is mating up with a fair amount of undamaged section of the joist. If you were strictly sistering a compromised joist, I would say to overlap beyond the rot at least 18-24". In my case, the newly built support wall is supporting both the "good meat" of the existing joist, as well as the newly sistered joist. So the length is not as important. In other words, my 2x6 wall is doing most of the work.

I need my floor done

Can't find the wall, rim joist, bottom plate repair video.

How much do you charge per hour to do something like that