Thank you mate excellent

fantastic vid mate i have spent all day on mine and it is a huge pain in the arse i was unsure about the metal band i did not want to destroy it but thanks to you i will go ahead and drill it out my left indicator came on and would not switch of everybody was pulling out on me ffs so although it still drives it is to risky when i juggled the wiring clip the indicator went of but only if the wiper was on doing my head in is there somewhere you can send them to get checked cheers

I can’t remember now cos it’s over a year ago, I can’t remember if I tried it. but it definitely would have cos it had compression, it was an issue with no canbus data from the ecu to BCM, turned out to be a blown 40amp strap fuse on the battery, caused by a short in the loom at the gear linkage, very very common after a clutch job, ( which it had had a couple of years previous. The loom not being properly secured.) but that wasn’t found till 6 months later after the fuse started blowing continuously and it correlated with changing gear. Hope that helps.

Super helpful, thanks!

thanx

Hi, Thanks very much for the help, just about to remove mine and had no idea of position, my indicators won't flash and seemingly could be the BCM. Cheers ......Martin

@thpxs0554

11 ай бұрын

In my commentary somewhere I mention the cost of the replacement BCM which had to be coded. It wasn’t cheap and it didn’t fix the issue either .

Merci pour le partage de vôtre video ses Excellent👍 de qelle années et votre vivaro sa vous a coûté combien la reparation

@thpxs0554

6 ай бұрын

Merci pour votre gentil commentaire. J’espere que cela vous a aide

Woukd it fire at all off easy start

Hello, thanks for the video. I have a vivaro 2011 no communication with bcm, ecu is OK and no faults found. The immobiliser light doesn't illuminate at all. So do you think this is a wiring (if so where is most likely) or the bcm faulty itself? Thank you.

@thpxs0554

5 ай бұрын

Hi, it’s much more likely to be a wiring issue unless someone has spilled a can of coke or coffee on to the BCM ( very common). So as a very quick check is the cup holder by the steering wheel wet, did a drink get knocked over even weeks ago. Take absolutely nothing for granted and don’t assume anything unless you’ve checked. Test the fuses on the battery, the strap fuses. Get a 12 volt bulb and holder and connect one side to negative. Then use the other wire to test each side of each fuse. Our local expert said he fixes more faults with a test bulb than any other bit of kit. Once you’ve established they’re all good, have a really good close look at the loom going by the gearbox, they can get worn through especially if it’s had a clutch and the loom got moved about, see if it’s rubbed against the gear linkage, if it’s definitely all good, then go to the fuse box in the engine bay and have a very close look at everything in there, there’s a big blue plug on some of them and they usually get corroded and the wires can rot, they may look ok but when you pull them gently they come away in your fingers. Open the plug and if it’s green and gungy then that’s prime suspect. You may need a small mirror. You’ll need to get underneath anyway to check the loom so you can also check under the fuse box while you’re there, is there any water in the fuse box, any condensation, scuttle drains are a terrible design and can channel water upon to the engine. The comms link from the ECU is a twisted pair of wires, it could be broken one or both legs, or shorted to earth or to battery , or the feed or ground to the BCM could be faulty. If the lights and windows work then the BCM is less likely to be faulty as it’s carrying out its other functions. My bet is corrosion in the fuse box or rubbed loom

@LAW-fv6ys

5 ай бұрын

@@thpxs0554 fantastic reply thank you so much. I've discovered it had a clutch not that long ago. So I will check the wiring loom above the gearbox first. The battery is dead so I've got another one to put on. The central locking works but I haven't checked the windows or indicators yet. I've got a test bulb and will follow your instructions to check fuses etc. Again thank you for your detailed reply and I will update this video comments to ensure it may help others. Top man!

@LAW-fv6ys

5 ай бұрын

Update, battery in and won't start still. All fuses at battery location good. Still immobiliser light doesn't illuminate at all. All bcm functions work, no water at bcm but haven't removed it yet. Scanned ecu and bcm and getting strange codes with my generic scanner, so ordered genuine opcom arriving Tuesday. Tomorrow will be pulling ecu and wiring to check for breaks and corrosion. I think I will find something here. Too many codes to be anything but a wiring issue.........

@LAW-fv6ys

5 ай бұрын

@@thpxs0554 another update. I've pulled out ecu and fuse box wiring, all looks very good to be fair, no signed of damage or green gunk anywhere I'm so surprised how clean and tidy it is. No signs of water damage. I've tested the can network from the ecu plug with ecu disconnected and got 120ohms as expected. The ecu can pins have 120 across the as well, so plugged back together will be 60 ohms as can is 2x120 resistance in parallel =60ohm. All fuses and relays are good. Tested nearly every component wiring from plug to ecu end plug all good except the turbo pressure solenoid pin 2 beige to ecu terminal C pin G1 was 84 ohms. But this won't stop it starting (may have boost control codes if driven under load etc). So moving forward the bcm isn't wet and all the control work as normal. The only thing still bugging me is I haven't seen the immobiliser led light on dash ever come on!!?? So has it had a immobiliser delete? Idk. But when I scanned the module with my generic scanner it said, engine immobiliser active =no. Immobiliser light extinguished =yes. So I take it that means the engine is ready to start? Gearbox wiring loom looks good and tracing the cables it's mainly the powers from the battery fuses etc and if they rub through the fuses blow, so I don't believe my issue is there. Today I'm putting it back together and sticking back on the large OEM battery fully charged. Before I was using a spare smaller battery and cranking speed was only 125rpm. What is the minimum crank rpm to inject fuel on these? VW Audi is around 225-250rpm. Ive got an idea the previous owner ran out of fuel, cranked until battery was crap and then call rac and they tried also and towed it away. She put fuel in but cranked and no start and sold it. Never had a strong battery and fuel since to start. Even the fuel gauge doesn't read a bar yet, however the priming build is hard and I have fuel and fuel pressure on live data. Any answers to the questions above would be great mate pls.

@LAW-fv6ys

4 ай бұрын

@@thpxs0554 OK so I've reassembled all wiring and found no faults. Have go opcom now and scanned ecu, camshaft signal missing, now have confirmed the camshaft isn't turning. So I've got a big problem. Chain snapped or sprocket sheared. Probably engine is toast. Will be striping it out beginning of April when I get my workshop unit and have the lift installed. Will likely opt for a reconditioned engine....... The immobiliser light led still doesn't work but the bcm was happy and the ecu had immobiliser signal ="okay". So I think it's got a bypass already.

hola y gracia por el video, tengo una nissan primastar parecida a la renault trafic año 2006 alguna vez al meter la calle y darle al segundo contacto me sale la lauz de imobilizador parpadeando o en alguna ocasion le llegado a ver fija pero normal mente parpadeando he intento dale y sale hasta que deja de salir y se quita y a rraca bien , tambien una cosa curiosa que tengo es que ahora si quito la llave el elevaluna electrico sube y baja la ventanilla y el reloj que tiene integrado y la radio se queda prendida al quitar la llave cosa que no es a si, tengo que quitar el fusible donde esta situado en la uerta izquerda del copiloto en concreto el de la bateria continua y se apaga la radio y los elevaluna electrico y el reloj , ahroa si conecto el fusible si funciona pero claro se quedaria encedido esta tres cosa y con lo consiguente se me quedaria sin bateria ,entonce tengo que quitarlo , cosa mas rara , me puede ayudar, gracias

@thpxs0554

7 ай бұрын

Compruebe cuidadosamente los cables junto al varillaje del engranaje, ya que a menudo rozan el varillaje y el fusible falla. 40 amperios en la batería

@thpxs0554

7 ай бұрын

Es un problema muy frecuente. Fue la causa original de mi problema. El fusible siguió fallando intermitentemente hasta que descubrimos el cable dañado. Tuvimos que tener una nueva ECU porque la empresa de pruebas dijo que estaba dañada por la sobrecarga del fusible. Pero no estoy tan seguro de que fueran correctos, la mayoría de los problemas son fallas en la alimentación de voltaje y fallas en la conexión a tierra de la batería.

I got a abs light, service light and handbrake light on. But no fault code. But the diagnostic machine is saying no communication with the bcm and cluster.

@thpxs0554

5 ай бұрын

The first thing is go to the battery and check the strap fuses on the battery. I think they’re 40 amp. Use a bulb not a meter, one side to negative the other to each end of the fuses, if it lights one side but not the other then that’s your first fault. Then you need to find why it blew. If they’re all good then the next common issue is the BCM gets wet. From tea and coke etc spilled over from the cup holder. It’s very common. You may be able to get your fingers in between the steering column and the trim and feel if it’s wet in there where the BCM sits. The coms is via a CAN circuit which is a twisted pair from the ecu to the BCM. It’ll probably be shorted to earth or to battery or to its other half or worn through and disconnected but that’s less likely as it would have played up while it was rubbing over the weeks.. so it’ll probably test ok for continuity but may also test shorted to ground or another wire and losing the data signal. The most common place is round the gearbox, by the gear linkage worn through. Then look in the fuse box under the bonnet for corrosion under the fuses and relays. Then get the plugs off the ECU and BCM ( total bastard of a job ) so you can buzz them out end to end once you’ve identified the CAN pair. Lastly suspect the BCM or ECU as faulty. Most faults are feed and ground failures due to corrosion or rubbing. My other video shows the wiring ( for this particular van, maybe not yours) and shows getting the ecu out. But that’s not until you look for the fuses and rubbed wiring and corroded plug in the fuse box. Until you establish the comms link there’s no way to see if there’s another issue. I’d appreciate it if you sort it let me know.

Hi I have the same problem mine won't start but turns over did yours turn over ? Or just stop turning over...cheers

@thpxs0554

Жыл бұрын

Hi, this one was turning over very well, The 1st symptom was it stayed running when the key was removed but the brake pedal pressed. When he took his foot off the pedal it stopped. Then it was fine the rest of the day, then it wouldn’t start next morning, just cranking over. But the immobiliser light was solid, we think the faulty trailer lights may have had something to do with it . The fault was no comms between BSI (BCM). And the main ecu. Which is why I changed the BCM. ( we were on Christmas week and couldn’t get diagnostics, so took a punt on the BCM. The ecu turned out to be faulty and had blown the 40amp fuse on battery, If your immobiliser light flashes rapidly then it’s not seeing the key. Could be key or pick up ring around the ignition, if the immobiliser light is on , not flashing then the ecu is not switching off the immobiliser. I’d check all the fuses with a test light, not just a meter, that’s where we went wrong, the meter said the fuse was ok ( 40amp on battery) but a test lamp showed it couldn’t pass any current, if you have power and grounds then it’s gets trickier. Bare/broken/corroded wires in/under fuse box. Water ( coffee) in the BCM ( common ) wires shorted to ground or to lives, you may end up taking the front off so you can get access and cut the loom open looking for breaks, but you have to check you have breaks by testing end to end first. You’ll need a wiring diagram, If the immobiliser light comes on, then goes out it’s not an immobiliser or BCM comma issue, it’s something else, check the relay for the injectors, you can bypass it with a jumper wire if you know what you’re doing. The immobiliser light is a useful 1st indicator

@darrenseadon8953

10 ай бұрын

Hi. What test lamp did you use? I’ll look into buying one. I currently have a no start fault with mine and the immobiliser light is staying on solid. Also the coil light doesn’t come on and go off as it should. I have checked the fuses on the battery and they seemed to bell fine so I’ll double check them with a test lamp.

@thpxs0554

7 ай бұрын

@@darrenseadon8953 hi, mate, I’m sorry for the late reply, I don’t seem to get any notifications so I expect this is useless now. But just in case, the test lamp is basically a screwdriver type spike with a bulb in the clear handle and a cable with a clip. You’d clip the cable to the negative on the battery then use the sharp tip to probe about looking for power. On this van it eventually became apparent that one of the 40amp strap fuses on the battery had failed. If my mate had used the test lamp on day one he’d have found it. The ultimate issue at the root cause was a wire rubbed through by the gear linkage and intermittently shorted and blew the fuse.