Awesome!!!! Couple of helpful hints. Use/Buy a proper T10 screwdriver Use/Buy an exacto knife Yes, there is a step missing in this video, once you pop off the plastic tab/bezel, you need to remove the two screws at the top and the two screws at the bottom. Gently pull off the cover, keeping the rubber ring that fits into the edge intact. Now!!!! - undo the other end of the battery in exactly the same manner - pop off the tab/bezel, remove screws. Because if you do this and push the battery out of the metal casing a bit, toward the end with the fuse, it is sooooo much easier. On both ends there is black silicon caulking on both sides between the edge of the battery and the edge of the metal battery casing. Take your exacto knife along the very edge of the metal battery casing, careful not to get near the blue battery wrapping. Cut a couple of times to break the seal of the caulking. Do this on both ends. Push the battery so that it comes out as far as it can on the end with the fuse. The fuse will be on the top left side of the battery if you are facing the meter. You should be able to make out the outline of the fuse thru the blue wrap. Cut a U shape in the blue wrap along the back edge and sides of the fuse with the exacto knife - leaving a bit of space to work with your fingers. Peel back the blue wrap, remove and replace the fuse. Before you close anything up, check the battery - remember to plug into the battery end first. If both lights are red, you are good to go. Before I closed everything up, I cut a thin bit of cork and wedged it in between the battery and the metal casing where I cut the silicone caulking - for extra security.

@gargoyle790

3 ай бұрын

Thank you, great advice! Although I was wary to slice through the sealant, so I tried not removing the back cover first, and after some struggle, was able to extract the fuse with just the right sized needloe nose. So while it may be easier to remove the backside and push the battery through the casing, it is not necessary.

I bought my bike 2 weeks ago and then this happened to me. I called Rad power bikes and they told me to replace the battery since this was not under warranty but thanks you to I fixed it myself. I hate to say that putting the charging port right next to the key hole is a really bad design by Rad Power Bikes. Seems like many people are making this mistake and short-circuiting their battery.

@carbonunit

Жыл бұрын

I had my bike for only 2 weeks and I was inserting the key into the key hole not the power port and a spark occurred and now the battery won't charge. Rad is going to have me wait 2 weeks for their decision on the replacement. My battery serial number ends with H so it looks like the fuse is glued to the board.

@csick11

Жыл бұрын

@@carbonunit was your battery resolve

@carbonunit

Жыл бұрын

@@csick11 Yes, they sent me a replacement and I managed to change out the fuse on the one that shorted.

@csick11

Жыл бұрын

@@carbonunit I can properly fix it for u next time. The correct way

@carbonunit

Жыл бұрын

@@csick11 Thanks, it was extremely easy,. I couldn't put the battery in the mail. It's a $50,000 fine to put a e bike battery in the mail.

Just followed & completed the steps in your video. And, SUCCESS. for less than $1.25, the battery is now fully charged and potentially saved me >$700, which was RAD Customer Service's recommendation & my warranty had run out. Thanks again. GREAT video. Also, my battery was ~ a couple of years old and I had to take additional steps to complete the task! It's probably worth mentioning: I had to push the entire battery pack out for about an inch from the other end to have a good view & access to the fuse. This required removing (cutting around) the factory installed caulking/sealant around the pack on both ends to free up the battery pack and allow it to move. After I was done & pushed the battery pack back in place, I applied a little high-temperature caulking over the factory caulk to secure the pack back in place. Also the fuse is the mini-fuse (0.64x0.43x0.15inch/16.3x10.9x3.8mm) that you can order in bulk online for few cents each. Or, buy just a small pack from any hardware or auto-part store for ~$6.

My wife stuck her key in the charging hole by accident trying to remove the battery. Blew the battery. Wouldn’t charge. Found your video and you saved me a bunch of money. Thank you!

@TreyCamp

4 ай бұрын

I did the same mistake yesterday!

@anachronisticon

24 күн бұрын

Yes, my wife just told me the same thing happened to her, after a week of not knowing why the battery wouldn't charge. 🤣

thanks for the video. My battery died and I went to the RAD store in Imperial Beach and they gave me a new one. I called ahead and they even charged it for me. Awesome customer service.

**THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!!!!** - Cancelled my "back ordered" battery and saved $475!! Here's my 2 cents on how I went about getting it done (FYI, I have a RADCITY 5+ with Battery Serial # starting with BDL): - Agree with others, pay the $5 for a #10 TORX tool, as you need to have a thin neck to get to the screws. 1- Follow the videos suggestion with using a 5 in 1 tool or similar to pop off the U bracket. 2- Remove all 4 screws 3 - Separate plate from tube "carefully" as there is only about 3" of slack on the cables attached to the actual battery. Make sure to keep the weather proofing rubber mold in tact that separates the face plate to the tube for when you reattach. 4 - In order for you to be able to slide the battery within the tube you need to first cut/separate the (2) black rubber silicone strips that is holding the battery in place to the metal housing. Use an X-Acto knife or razor blade to cut the silicone. The silicone does not go that far into the battery (maybe a 1/2" at most). Try to cut up against the metal housing side and not the battery as much as possible so as to avoid cutting into the blue battery protective wrap. 5 - REPEAT STEPS #1-4 6 - Once you have both ends removed and silicone cut, you should be able to "push" the battery through the tube enough to expose almost 2" of Blue battery out the other end, thus helping you locate the "bulge" that is the fuse. 7 - The fuse is exactly where the video shows you. It's elevated enough to where you don't need to cut deep. The fuse cover is plastic so just TAKE YOUR TIME on cutting/exposing the top of it, then follow the two sides and just slightly peel it back like a flap. 8 - Remove the fuse. 9 - Replace the fuse. ***IMPORTANT NOTE*** - THE FUSE IS NOT A STANDARD FUSE BUT RATHER A "MINI" FUSE (Bussman 10amp ATM Mini Fuse). 10 - Use Electrical tape to reseal/cover the flap you cut getting to the fuse. 11 - Slide battery back into the tube evenly and put both face plates back on (making sure the weatherproofing seal is correctly in place). 12 - Insert screws (till they bite, don't torque them in). 13 - Smile and feel a sense of gratitude/accomplishment/reward that you went with your gut and not the simple advice from Rad's website and customer service that told you to just replace your battery. Last note - Not sure how I blew my fuse but the only thing I can think of is that I've been plugging in the battery pack first then plugging in the battery....IDK, I've been doing it that way for the last year.

@Powerstroke98

13 күн бұрын

Exactly...on the correct Torx tool! We had the tool of the correct size, but the neck was too thick and we spent a good hour using a file, to file the tools neck down to where we could get it to fit into the slot, and that was only because we where camping in the middle of nowhere and felt fortunate that I even brought a file with me!

You have helped a lot of people with this video. THANK YOU!! It's shameful that Rad bikes charges SO much for these batteries . . . and that it's so easy to blow the fuse. You made a real difference here.

@gargoyle790

3 ай бұрын

I'm done with Rad, and can no longer wsupport or recommend this company.. This design flaw is so evironementally (not to mention financially) irresponsible.

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You saved me $600++. After this RAD bike is done, never this brand again. I have two and both are nothing but trouble and repairs are a ripoff at their store.

@louisethompson7706

Жыл бұрын

Wish I could thumbs up this comment about 25xs! I spent the 600 plus shipping, got a dead battery, can get no response from Rad after sending them all the required videos and pics to remedy the situation. My brand new (dead) battery should be under fresh warranty! Thank you so much all! Will have to give this a try! (Next time a Wired Freedom!)

@codyryanlifts

4 ай бұрын

Yes I bought it for many good things I'd heard and paid the extra premium. Wish I'd just got a cheap one with the issues I've had

Thanks a whole bunch, pal. I got the tools and the fuse online for about $10 and fixed it per your directions. You just saved me a $700 dollar battery replacement ... because that was my only option with Rad before viewing your video. Hardly can call Rad's e-bike engineering sustainable, not with a throw-away battery design. You're a hero!

@dmelby

6 ай бұрын

Yes, seem pretty stupid to have a fuse that can not be readily serviced.

@gargoyle790

3 ай бұрын

@@dmelby 100% agree. I'm in this boat as well. I called Rad and they said there was no other option than to buy another $600 battery. Seems like a design flaw, as it only had about 20 charges on it

@ec9697

3 ай бұрын

DO NOT DO THIS!!! They changed the battery style!!!! I repeat do not do it!!! Rad rover plus 6 Don’t do it!!!!!!!!!!!!

@dmelby

3 ай бұрын

@@ec9697 I did this on the Rad Rover 6+. Any reasoning why you are so adamant NOT to do it?

@gargoyle790

3 ай бұрын

@@ec9697 From what I understand, this can't be done on the newer batteries. Check the serial # printed on the bottom, and if it begins with BDLGRADE then a series of numbers, you're supposedly good to go with the procedure. I'm currently in the process, and so far, it's going as planned.

Thanks a lot for this video. I struggled to push the inner battery pack out so I had to loosen up the black apoxy with a razor blade on the side walls, and then took the other end off to push it through a bit. Didn't have to cut the ribbon, and replaced the fuse with no issues (even with a cast on lol). Thanks a ton!

Hey, thank you! Replaced the 5A fuse for charging and that was it. Quoted $500 and a 3-6 month wait for the replacement. You are the man!

Thanks you I was so sad that my battery wouldn't charge now I can fix it myself your are a lifesaver

I bought my bike 14 months ago and this happenef to me this week. I was shocked that the battery is not designed to have a way to change the fuses. I followed these steps snd saved my battery.

Went deeper into the battery and found the fuse. Thank you for the information.

Just followed your video step by step and complete a successful fuse swap. My battery was completely covered in silicone in the top left corner so I took my sweet time removing it with needle nose pliers and some surgical scissors. I did not have to take off the other end and was able to use a pair of pliers to pull the fuse. I appreciate your video and the extra precautions on the ribbon wire to the right of the fuse. You are a real MVP.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

I’m glad this was helpful and you kept another battery out of the landfill

Thank you so much for this video. A HEADS UP for everyone trying to do this - be very careful cutting the plastic! I wasn’t and just nicked the cable going to the indicator - now I have no level indication.

I just read online that this applies to integrated batteries whose serial number starts with "BDLGRADE". Rad has another version of this same battery that the fuse is much smaller and soldered onto the board. Before opening it, check your serial number. My 6 week old Rad Rover 6+ has the "BDLGRADE...." Serial Number so thanks for these instructions in case I run into a problem. So far at 200ish miles, mine has been great.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

Yes the cap serial numbers use a different fuse that is not replaceable

@failednone6070

Жыл бұрын

Why will them fuc%*# at radbike set up a battery fuse none replaceable ?

@Chris-is5nu

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Scott for the info. My original battery is fine and is a BDLGRAD. I ordered a second as a spare. It was D.O.A. and was a CAP (no wonder I couldn't find a 10A fuse as in this video.) Finally got a replacement and it is fine - luckily it is a BDLGRAD.

@dorothy135

Жыл бұрын

Too bad, my son's batteries are CAP vs BDLGRADE. So there is no easy 10A fuse anymore. The first one is stuck half way, the replacement failed to even light up to show ship mode or anything. Just dead. They are sending another. My concern is they said this to me: Unfortunately we have noticed a higher failure rate in new batteries recently so it is most likely a better issue still.. We had the newest battery processed your way yesterday go through a double check and make sure it should solve your problem. Right now it is under warranty - I dread the year being up. We have had brake issues and now battery issues. 2000.00 - I had hoped for a more robust product.

@GermanShepherd1983

5 ай бұрын

@@dorothy135The fuse is still there, but it's soldered in. Still supposedly replaceable but much harder.

Thank you for this video. I swapped the 10 amp fuse ,sealed it up and I have a second battery 👍👌.

I got enough power get to work. The tools and my co worker has a fuse. Imma do this tomo. Thank u so much saved me from a ton of hassle man. Rads also sending me a new battery too under warranty. Double win 🏆

Checking in for 2024 - friend put the key in the charge port and pop. Found this video. Absolutely had to slide the battery forward to get to the fuse. Thanks to all for the details.

Very interesting. The same thing happened with my wife’s red city5 Plus. There were multiple other problems with that bike and rad power bikes actually replaced it. The videos are up on the channel about some of the issues with it. Very well put together video that is much appreciated. Take a look at ours if you get the chance.

this video worked for me. thanks!!! fuse was deeper in than the one in video, but we managed to get it replaced without popping of other end of housing. used a tweezers to get the new fuse lined up and get some electrical tape into the tube to seal up the hole in blue sheathing. is a shame rad company didn’t make replaceable fuse. i mean, really, my $10 christmas lights have that!

You're my hero today. I just got the fuse replaced with just a tiny slot in the end cap cover and it's now charging. I.e. The red light is on. When it's charged, I'll tape the slit with electrical tape and move on with my ebike life. Thanks again for the tremendously helpful video and responses to my inquiries.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

I’m glad to help. This is simple fix and you can be back riding your ebike

@micheldesy8336

Жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox👍 fully charged now and back on the road. Yea

Thanks for the video! This worked for my RadCity 5 Plus. They have added a lot more silicone - difficult to cut it free of the case. Thankfully I was able to get in and out of there without pushing it out from the housing.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for sharing, you can cut the silicone and slide it out to access the fuse more easily.

Thanks, accidentally hit the charge port with my key this morning. Can not believe Rad did such a crappy design - key too close to charge port, and said charge port has a worthless door flap that does not close. To top it all off they did away with a replaceable fuse - you must spend $700 for a new battery that will take a month to arrive. I used your video to replace my fuse now all is well. Thanks for sharing your fix. I did it without moving the battery as I had no luck cutting thru all that sealant. I found a 1/4 " chisel twisted in the slot around end of top caps took them off with little effort.

Thanks for the video and all the comments. A little challenging to get battery to slide out enough to get at fuse but got it done!

Thank you for this my battery port was short circuited and blew that fuse, I watched this vid and fixed it! Great Success!

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, I’m curious how did your battery port short?

@Itsyoungstunna1

2 жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox So right under the charge port is the key port to turn and take out the battery and the key touched that charge port and arc blowing the fuse in that battery.

Thanks for the info. Your video gave me the confidence to repair my battery. It’s a terrible design to bury the fuse like that. Rad said they’d send me a new battery more than three months ago still no joy.

@castroeye2173

2 жыл бұрын

no joy - meaning you've never received your battery?

great video - thanks for posting. I had an issue with mine shorting out after accidentally putting the key into the charging port on the first use and was told due to user error it wasn't covered in the warranty so had to spend another $600 to replace it. Really poor service in my opinion when the fix is pretty simple actually even though inconvenient. They even say you can't change the fuse and it's designed such that it's very rare it would ever blow ...but seems to be a quite common occurrence. That all being said, with your help and others I was able to take apart the battery, replace the $1 fuse and now it's back to charging successfully...and I know very little about these things...so it's a huge win. Really sad that Rad won't offer to repair batteries that have this issue when it's so simple and the only answer is to spend another $600. I can now do it in about 10 mins if I have to do it again. Mine is a little more complicated as the fuse is mounted on the top of the circuit board so I had to open both ends and slide the battery casing out and cut more area to find it...but still pretty simple. Thanks again.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

I’m glad you were able to find this helpful. Yes by cutting the sealant on the side and pushing the batter out about an inch will make the replacement easier. I hope to help save more batteries and keep rad bikes on the road.

Well i am back and it worked it's fully charged Big Thanks to you sir you saved me a small fortune ....

Thanks a ton for this video, works like a charm. As others have noted, helps to remove both ends and slide the battery out for better access to the fuse.

This just saved me 500$ for a replacement thank you for posting 💪

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Thanks and feel free to share this video with any of your friends

The best video on KZread!! Thank you!

thanks for the video. Saved me a huge headache

You just saved me from spending around $550. Thanks for sharing.

Followed exactly as this video showed and it worked perfectly! Thank you!!

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

I'm glad this helped!

@csick11

Жыл бұрын

You void your warranty by doing this. Battery wire exposed can cause shortage from water damage.

Hi everyone. I had a situation where my battery wouldn’t charge after just one full charge and a few uses of the bike. After jumping through some hoops with Rad, they replaced my battery which I really appreciated. After watching this video (thank you soooo much!) I decided to investigate my battery to see if I could fix it and I did find a blown fuse inside. I assume it was a faulty fuse from the factory. Like a few others, I had some challenges and here are my thoughts…The fuse is very high up and very difficult to extract when just opening the one end. After cutting through the blue membrane and then the black membrane, I needed a very small and fine pair of needle nose pliers or wouldn’t have been able to get the fuse out. However, I did get it out after using a small flat head screw driver to push the fuse over just a little bit so I could get a grip on both sides of it with the needle nose. If I was doing it again, I would take both ends of battery off and slide the entire battery casing (full length) out of the housing. I ended up seeing another video where a guy did just that and then the fuse is very easy to access). Given how easy it is for these fuses to blow, I think the fuse should be easily accessible to be replaced as needed. Thanks again everyone for your help in aiding me to be able to make this repair! Now I have a spare battery.

@Chungustav

Жыл бұрын

Also for anyone else I recommend using an electric screwdriver with a 3/32 hex bit. Go slow at first to make sure yiur don't stripnit and it will save you time since these aren't short screws and have lock tite

Great video, saved a battery! Thanks so much!

Thanks buddy,... GREAT Video. I'm having the same symptom on my RAD City 5+. I'm going to try & follow up on your suggestion later today and come back to report on the result.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Let me know how it goes. If the charger is blinking red then it means low voltage and you can use a 36V to trickle charge it up and then swap to the 48V rad charger. If it’s just not charging then follow this video

Awesome and very explanative. Saved me $500. Thanks

I left the battery on all days from 8am and was gonna leave 24hours n see. But 10hours in the charger stopped flashing Red and went solid. Left it overnight and woke up to it green. So it's charged now but WOW...Learning curve. Thanks for replying

Great help, worked just fine for me. Thanks

Argh! I wish I saw this, before we paid $700 for a new battery... I'm going to try this tomorrow. If it works, I guess we will have 2 batteries... Thanks for posting this!

Thank you for the video. I just did a repair and I can say that the video over simplies the removal of the fuse. It's just not that easy to simply remove the fuse with a needle nose whilst being concerned with shorting something. I took the advice here and removed the other end cap, cut the silicone holding it in, then pushing the battery out about an inch so I could better get at the fuse. Even then it was stubborn. Note that I did manage to kill the led battery indicators in the process and my guess is that I damaged the ribbon cable. No real harm and my customer saved 400.00 on a replacement.

@bobdawnhackney7807

Жыл бұрын

I think I did the same thing. will it show the battery if I put it on the bike?

@VictorYepello

Жыл бұрын

@@bobdawnhackney7807 yes it will

@dannyxia8833

Жыл бұрын

I also somehow killed the indicators. Is there a fix?

@VictorYepello

Жыл бұрын

@@dannyxia8833 I'm afraid not. They are somewhat superfluous anyway.

Awesome -- worked for me, took a little time since the fuse wasn't as accesible as showin in the video. But better than getting a new battery.....

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

You can use needle nose pliers to pul the fuse and install the new one without pushing the battery out

Fantastic, I was being stupid and accidentally put my key in the charge slot and blew my fuse. Easy fix.

This worked out great thank you so much. Rad didn't respond within 7 days.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

I'm glad you were able to repair it!

Thanks so much! KZread University to the rescue! I echo the suggestions from the commentor who clarified that a # 10 TORX is needed to remove the screws. Also - it’s much easier to remove the opposite end as well so that one can push the battery out 2+ inches and have access to the fuse. My battery started with the letters BDLGRADH… And then some numerals. Apparently this fix does not work on all RAD 5+ batteries.

I just saw this post and that's great information. While it's still under warranty if something happens I'll have them take care of it, but after the warranty now I know where to look for myself. I have other Rads with the older battery and I've had issues a couple times that turned out to be a blown fuse and they were easy to check first because they were easily accessible. Any short at that charge port is going to blow that fuse. Doesn't make much sense why they wouldn't give/make easy access to the fuses on the newer style battery. Unless maybe they want to sell me another $500 battery after the warranty has expired

@castroeye2173

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you got covered warranty, Rad has since changed it policy. We just called Rad and they told us the warranty is void because the order we plugged in the battery; since we merely plugged the battery into the charger that was already plugged into the wall - extremely unfriendly and unrealistic expectation for a mass consumer product - never had this issue on ANY Rad bike before. They've made a huge engineering mistake imho. No where in the docs is there a big red warning - just normal fine print so read the fine print or it will cost you $599 + TAX + SHIPPING. BS FORMERLY RAD

@WildBillRidesAgain

2 жыл бұрын

@@castroeye2173 Well that is F'ed up. So it says something about that in small print somewhere? I guess sometimes honesty is not the best policy. LOL Thing about batteries is they got to pay almost full price for them compared to say the rest of the bike that they make all their profit off. I won't buy another bike from them either because with their new Motors and new controllers you can't even modify once the warranties up and they are gutless wonders for any kind of speed compared to some other brands. I had bought the 6 Plus step-thru because it's getting a little hard for me to swing my leg over my older Rad Rover with anything on the back rack and the step-thru can get a lot of wobble on the front end at a certain low speed, on mine anyway. You can always replace the the fuse if you feel like opening up the front of the battery case if you're comfortable doing that. For $500 I would feel comfortable. LOL. No idea why they would put the fuses inside the case. Good luck with whichever way you decide to go.

Thank you for this video. I just fixed it, thx again!!!

We did the key thing this weekend. At first the video looks like you can get to the fuse by opening one end. Fuse is on top and you have to open the other side, cut the silicone on both side and push the battery out to get to the fuse. I also used a rubber mallet to softly tap the paint scraper to get it started, then twisted, made it easy to get the caps off. Now I am waiting for the silicone to dry in order to put it back together and test it.

Thanks for the helpful video. Very much appreciated 🙏

Did the same thing others did - key in the charging port when not paying attention. 2022 rad 5+. Definitely have to push the battery out a couple inches and close look at your video appears you did as well. 20 min repair after i bought a long, skinny T10 torque driver

Worked. My fuse busted 2 months out of warranty but this fix took 20 minutes

So helpful, thank you!

Thanks for advice,I’ve changed my fuse it’s working now,

SCORE ! :o) So I suceeded and I'm happy. My experince was this: The fuse was actually down about 1/2 inch from the top. Your picture was staged and shows it right on the top. When I cut the membrane the fuse was not self-evident so I started cutting/exploring around the perimeter more. When I did not find it, I cut a little more where you showed and looked deeper, and there is was. My needle nose worked great and I even had the extra 10 amp fuse in the car. So my tape-up job is a bit more extensive, but there is plenty of room under cover so we're good to go! Thanks a lot! The question of the day is now.....Do I cancel the $707 battery I ordered last night or let it ride and have a extra?

@callmebigpapa

Жыл бұрын

I hope you canceled it......lots of diy battery options out there also.

Thanks for your video, really helped. Like some other commenters mentioned I also had to remove the other side to push the battery out (around 1 inch) to be able to access the fuse at the top. Made a small slit and pulled the fuse out with nose pliers like mentioned. Managed to not damage anything and be done within an hour

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

I’m glad you found this helpful

10/10 i lightly touched the key to my inlet to charge and it blew the duze fixed in a half hour and saved 500$!

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Im glad this could help you!

Thanks for posting this, I found it difficult to get at the fuse but was successful in the end. Like several others posting here I have cut the ribbon cable and hence no more power indication. Does anyone know if this can be repaired. Thanks !!!

Merci beaucoup !!! C'est super !!!

Thank you!

Had 1 where I charged it wrong and blew the fuse, so fixed using your method major thanks. But on my Wife's bike, We fully charged the battery correctly, went out 2 different times, came back with half a battery, took the batterys out and keep them in the house for 2 months. Put then all back in the bike's 2 were fine, the 3rd showed no action on the bike or the battery screen. So tried charging and got flashing red led constant, tried another charger and same. The other batterys charged fine. Contacted the place I bought the bike, they said I had went over 3 months warranty on the batterys, so put me to the manufacturer and they basically said I'm outta warranty 4 months I'm at now. They advise try the fuse so I did again on thus one and nothing. So no support from Moose and left 4 months down the line with a worthless bike😊

@2feetNOsox

3 ай бұрын

A flashing light means the battery voltage is too low from sitting too long

@TheMcstoter

3 ай бұрын

Thanks for the reply....anyway of fixing it?

@2feetNOsox

3 ай бұрын

@@TheMcstoter you can use a 36v charger to try and trickle charge it back up and swap over to the 48v rad charger

Thanks so much - I thought I would have to buy a new battery at $800

Hey just curious should I always plug my battery in first before plugging into the wall on any battery? I have the old rad battery and have been doing the exact opposite plugging it into the wall and than the battery am I messing something up? I haven't had a single issue but I definitely don't want too!

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

You should always plug into the battery first, then plug the charger into the wall

@WildBillRidesAgain

2 жыл бұрын

Yep, battery then wall. I blew the fuse on my older rad battery twice because I wasn't paying attention and had the charger already plugged into the wall and I went to stick the charger plug into the charging port and I inadvertently tried to stick it into the side where the key slot was and that short blew the fuse. If it wasn't plugged in that oops wouldn't have happened. I'm a little more careful now. LOL

Thanks for the video... I was trying to open the charging port flap with a screwdriver and contacted the metal... My ebike is less than a month old and I contacted Radrover customer service to see what they would do for me... She basicly told me, the battery warranty was no long good and I was on my own... BEWARE OF BUYING A RADROVER... I watched your video and fixed it myself...

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

I’m glad you found this helpful. Also be careful to never use a metal object to open the cover as it can short out the battery

@louisethompson7706

Жыл бұрын

Favorite bike to ride, but not service!

I hear the newer Rad batteries have the fuse soldered in. How do those get replaced?

My battery appears fully charged both in terms of the green light on the charger and the full bars from the indicator on the battery (when I push the button) BUT when I click it back onto the bike, it only shows one blinking bar and the speedometer is blinking at 30 km. Do you think this is the same problem that you address in this video or something else? THANKS so much!

Seriously, the companies that do that should get a shit ton of penalties for that kind of shitty design to make sure you buy MORE BATTERIES. MORE WASTE ON THIS PLANET YESSSSS!! THANKS RAD.

Thanks! I'm usually not very patient with these kinds of things so I thought for sure I would do some damage, but just finished the replacement and the battery appears to be charging! As others have said, my fuse was a ways back (I did a little more cutting of the blue stuff then I probably should.) but eventually found it and a few attempts with the needle nose pliers and it came out and the new one went right in. Is the blue plastic just for water proofing? I'm not sure I did a very good job on taping/fixing that. I might have to go back in and do a better job.

@2feetNOsox

6 ай бұрын

Correct, blue plastic is for waterproofing. You can also cover it in silicone and let it dry instead of using tape.

Thank you very, very much. Mine was a little bit weird and fuse was on top so i had to open other side, push battery out over one inch out and was able to see mini fuse which was not visible when i cut open left top corner. :-( I'm charging now but it jump one bar up after some 20-30 minutes so everything looks ok.

I am about to do this right now i have had the bike for just over a year $499 plus shipping for new one of course the company said we can't fix it i told my wife everything can be fixed and here we go if this works you are my best friend right now i will report back....

Followed the steps in your video but unfortunately while cutting the plastic sheathing I sliced the ribbon cable that goes to the battery readout dispon the battery. But if a bummer, I can no longer see the charge level on the battery display. If you're trying this for yourself make sure you don't cut too far to the right away from the left edge or you might nick the cable like I did. Wish I had known that delicate cable was just under the plastic...

Great video. My battery s/n starts with BDLGRDH. Do you know if it still applies? Thanks

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Yes this video will work for you

Hi All, I'm glad you are finding this helpful. You can replace the 10 amp mini fuse with the same fuse or a resetting fuse. I've linked both into the description for where to buy on amazon

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

10 amp ATM fuse - www.amazon.com/Bussmann-Division-BP-ATM-10-RP-Atm-10/dp/B000IYBJV2/ref=asc_df_B000IYBJV2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242124331408&hvpos&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6561437584514731425&hvpone&hvptwo&hvqmt&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl&hvlocint&hvlocphy=9029376&hvtargid=pla-570396596365&psc=1

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

Resetting fuse- www.amazon.com/dp/B009WQPBYS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

@theworkofhassansaid

2 жыл бұрын

Quick question - how do you know which one to get and replace - the 10am or resetting fuse? Or do i need both? Just want to make sure which to select as I am no expert

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

@@theworkofhassansaid either fuse will work

They made it harder than the previous model battery, but still not too bad. Is there a second fuse for the output circuit? It was 40 amp fuse on the older batteries.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, the 40amp output fuse is on the opposite end of the battery in the same location. This rarely blows.

Anyone have any advice for removing the fasteners holding the end cap on? 2feetNOsox doesn't show that in the video, and the fasteners don't seem to be of a type that I have tools for. I tried several sizes of screwdrivers and allen wrenches.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

The screws are T10 Torx screws heads. You will need to buy the special T10 Torx screwdriver.

@matthewreeves1445

2 жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox Thank you! Haven't worked with those before, but I'll be making a quick run to the hardware store.

@matthewreeves1445

2 жыл бұрын

For anyone else that finds this comment, be aware that the recessed opening for the upper torx screws is very narrow. I wasn't able to access them with the first set of torx drivers I bought.

Thanks so much got it fixed!!! But the hardest part we can't get the end caps back on??!!!??!! We have used a rubber Mallet and cannot get back on???

@2feetNOsox

10 ай бұрын

Did you take off both top and bottom end caps? They are slightly different and one will go on both ends but the other will only go on the top. Chances are you swapped them. Also it’s not needed to use the battery

Is that red mini 10amp fuse rated for 48volts? Does it matter in this application? All I see online are 32v mini 10amp fuses and when I search for 48v I get stuff that's not relevant.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

This is the same stock oem fuse of what rad put in the battery. Yes it’s tested and the charger voltage is not a problem since it only charges at 2 amps per hour. The discharge is what you’re confusing this for.

I opened my city 5 plus battery, cut the blue plastic and there was no 10 amp fuse in that location. your thoughts?

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

There are two versions of this fuse location and yours is deeper in. What does your serial start with? BDLG or CAP?

@TomHolzworth

Жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox CAP - What did you use to cut the glue? What tool(s)?

is it a specific 10amp fuse that you need to buy to replace?

@2feetNOsox

22 күн бұрын

@@CameronSpence-p5j 10amp mini fuse. Just as is shown in the video

I found some 10A, 32C mini fuses at my local automotive store, but it doesn't show as ATM. Will they work as well?

@micheldesy8336

Жыл бұрын

Sorry, It's 32V, not 32C.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Yes this will work

@micheldesy8336

Жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox thanks so much for the quick responses and the help. You're saving people a lot of agravations.

Both fuses were good. When I plug in the charger the green light is steadily on. Any suggestions?

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Then something is wrong with the Bms (batter management system) this rarely happens but it’s not really fixable

I was able to get the fuse out without pushing from the other end. Cut a small slit then expanded it with tweezers and gripped fuse with needle nose pliers

I got the bezel off, with as you say, great difficulty. However, your video specifically mentions "FOUR" screws that must be removed to access the internals. I found ONLY THREE screws, and I am unable to pull out the end piece to access the interior, and the target fuse. Can you please post a picture that explicitly identifies the locations of the FOUR screws. Mike Chapelle

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Hi mike, there are two screws behind the bezel, and two screws below on the bottom corner that are exposed. These are fairly long and need to be fully unscrewed to remove the cap. The cap will just pull off by hand.

insanity how mch harder this "semi intergrated battery" made this

The fuse checks out okay on my battery and the charger seems fine. Do you have any other suggestions?

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

Is it still not charging? What lights are lit up on the charger?

I have a Rad Rover 6 Plus. Battery wouldn't charge or even show a single bar on display and was not in "transport mode". I followed this guide but had to open BOTH sizes to cut the battery adhesive to be able to slide the batter about 1 or 2 inches as the 10 amp fuse was mounted deeper down on the RIGHT side. Note also that I found a 30amp fuse on the other side (opposite the charge port). It was still okay, but the 10amp fuse was toast. I replaced it and the battery is charging just fine!!!! Why don't they make this any easy fuse replacement. These are $600 batteries that shouldn't be replaced simply due to a 10 cent fuse!

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

The 30 amp fuse is the discharge fuse.

I have a blown fuse and have taken off the end cap and cut through the blue covering but no fuse in that location. Any ideas? I two was given a new battery by Rad for my RR6

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

The 10amp charge fuse is going to be in the same spot as in the video. This is the only design of this battery and it has not been moved.

@EkusNet

2 жыл бұрын

It's not obvious from the video but it's on the shorter side (top, not side of the batter) right under the indicator LEDs. I almost cut into the SIDE before realizing this. Also it helps to cut the rubber glue on both ends with a knife and slide out the battery about 1-2 cm to get better access to the fuse.

@matthewreeves1445

2 жыл бұрын

@Dave, did you ever find your fuse? I got my end cap off and am not seeing any sign of a fuse, either. I bought my bike last September.

@matthewreeves1445

2 жыл бұрын

NVM, I found it. My battery has a LOT of the rubbery glue, so it took me a while to free up the battery from the housing, but once I slid the battery forward quite a bit, I found the fuse. 😀

@dmelin

2 жыл бұрын

@@matthewreeves1445 I, too, tried to slide the battery out, but was unable to do so. There's another video online that shows this method. Glad you were able to rescue your battery. I damaged mine in the process so now, it is dead for good I fear. But RAD provided a free replacement, so I'm good.

I might try this on my old battery. I have a radcity 5 plus and my battery has the same issue. Lucky Rad is sending me a new battery though.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

Give it a try and they you will have two batteries

I have a Rad City Step-thru 5 plus. 2022. A short happened and the fuse blew. Rad says it's my fault and wants me to by another battery. I tried just like this video. I searched without seeing the fuse. So I opened wider and it did like someone commented below, I have cut by accident the wire that lets you read how full is the battery. Still it will work but I have to charge it often to be sure. As for my battery, the fuse was at the right location but deeper into the battery than this video shows. So there was no other way for me than to take out the bottom end, cut the glue thats in between the casing and the battery on the bottom and on the top ( quite easy on my battery) and push the battery about 2-3 CM. Cut the blue wrapping just a bit more around the fuse (that was kind of glued there a bit). To put the new fuse was easy though. If I had to do it again, I strongly suggest that if you dont see your fuse like the video, chances are that like my battery, yours will be deeper and do I as did. One thing is for sure, DONT cut farther center than in this video or you will cut the battery charge signal.

@castroeye2173

2 жыл бұрын

I think its HORRIBLE that Rad created a "gotcha" so you are forced to buy a new $600 battery. Its THEIR FAULT for POOR ENGINEERING an inferior consumer good lacking the necessary protections (BMS, accessible fusing, etc.) Never had a problem with RAD Power Bikes before never even paid attention to what order and have used other 48 VOLT chargers.

@TomHolzworth

Жыл бұрын

How did you cut the glue? What tool(s) did you use?

@514martinho

Жыл бұрын

@@TomHolzworth Hello, with a very sharpened cutter.

Can’t slide it out from the casing. We cut all around the black glue on both ends but it won’t budge. Wish your video included that.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

yes you can slide it out, be careful not to puncture the cells. I didn't do this because it can be tricky and hard to budge. This is why I used this approach.

Thanks for the video. My rad rover 6 plus battery serial number starts with BDLGRADL. Does anyone know if this one has the replaceable fuse?

@2feetNOsox

4 күн бұрын

@@THEKINGSLAPPA yes yours is the same as in the video with the fuse

The battery from my new RadRover 6 Plus doesn’t have a removable fuse like this. It has a 10a surface mounted fuse on one end and a 40a surface mounted fuse on the other end. I did a continuity test on both fuses and I got a tone on both. I didn’t remove the fuse from the board to test. My electronics knowledge is very limited so I’m not sure what else to do.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

You can test the surface mounted fuse with a multi meter to see if the fuse is still good or not.

@kx8z446

2 жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox Yes, as stated, I did a basic test on them and they both show continuity.

@prwlr86

2 жыл бұрын

Can you share a picture or video of the circuit board with surface mount fuse? I have the Rover6 Plus and trying to figure out how to locate and what part to order to replace fuse. Thanks!

@kx8z446

2 жыл бұрын

@@prwlr86 Sorry, I just saw this. Well, I already started removing the individual cells and I’m not sure I saved it. I think I confirmed it wasn’t simply a fuse because they both seemed to work still. One 10A and one 40A. I pretty much destroyed the fuse when trying to remove them. I straight wired the board where the fuses were. It didn’t help. I got frustrated and just started disassembling in hopes of building my own pack with lots of outside help to do so. If I remember correctly it has 52 18650 Panasonic lithium cells. Best of luck!

Any idea how to get a rad 6 battery out of shipping mode when their directions don’t work? They sent me a new battery, but am curious if it can be saved as a spare.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

If this is a cap serial number the issue could be a faulty battery management system or the soldered on charge fuse. I haven’t been able to test any of these.

@sharonbeck2825

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! It is a CAP serial number. If you ever have the chance to test it, I hope you will make a video!

@GF-vs5ez

Жыл бұрын

​ @2feetNOsox I have the same issue - CAP serial, battery arrived with bike, battery DOA, Rad sent a replacement battery, which works fine but now have a paperweight, which would be great to repair. Any thoughts appreciated.

@2feetNOsox

Жыл бұрын

@@GF-vs5ez the cap can have a couple of problems going on. The battery management system can be bad and it’s basically a loss. The cap have a soldered on fuses and sometimes those are the problem. It’s not worth disassembling it. I’d recommend recycling it at your hazmat location

Wow, well I can certainly come up with a few added Upgrades to these batteries to make them safer. That charge port should automatically be protected against any dead short conditions as in an old shorted charge cable or something to that effect. Maybe also add a Resettable fuse system for the battery in case of problems where the owner could just try resetting the device. I also wouldnt mind having a small led temperature indicator added to tell me when not to use the battery at this time …. TOO HOT !

Thanks for the video. My battery model shows BDLGRADH. It blinks red and won't charge. Will doing what you show here solve it? It notice you also mention a 36v charger ? I bought the bike over a year ago now and just haven't had a chance to ride it much. It doesn't even have a 100 miles on it. Super frustrating. Also the battery is completely dead at the moment.

@2feetNOsox

9 ай бұрын

Your battery has low voltage from letting it sit too long. You need to buy a 36v charger and let it charge and then switch it over to your 48v rad charger. The fuse is fine in your battery

@jeremygriffnow4179

9 ай бұрын

Thank you!

@willalarcon1004

4 ай бұрын

@@2feetNOsoxis there a 36V charger you recommend? Have a dead battery with a blinking red light on charger. Thanks in advance!!

@2feetNOsox

4 ай бұрын

@@willalarcon1004 I don’t have a specific one but as long as it has the same charge port then it could work. There is still a chance it won’t based on if the voltage is very low

I have 2 ebikes from another company. Key to unlock battery and port charge battery are on opposite sides of the battery. This is definitely a design problem. i have been charging my battery while still on the ebike. No problem, get the charger and plug it in. With temperatures hitting 80's & 90's I decided to keep all batteries in the house. That's when I became a victim. I also was sad until I found this video. Crazy for a company that seems to be growing would make a design mistake like that, and placing the fuse in that position. norm

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

HI, I'm glad you found this video and it was helpful. Thank!

@normzakrzewski4289

2 жыл бұрын

@@2feetNOsox Changing the fuse was very easy with your video. Ebike still does not work. The BMS in the battery prevents the battery from damaging the rest of the electrical system. Is there a easy fix for resetting the BMS.

@2feetNOsox

2 жыл бұрын

@@normzakrzewski4289 check the opposite end discharge fuse as that could have blown. It’s going to be in a similar spot but in the bottom end. It’s a 40amp mini fuse.

To push the power cell out more easily: cut the black goop with a knife (being carefull not to penetrate the blue film), open the bottom and push the cell.

Hi I have a battery problmem just like this but it's not the same battery as his can someone help thank you

@2feetNOsox

4 ай бұрын

This repair only works for serial numbers that start with bdl and not the cap ones