Your conclusion is right, results do vary. I use the cheap daiso ink in all my staedtler technical pens, including the finer 0.2mm nibs, and let me tell you, it was the smoothest technical pens I have ever used. And so I cast aside the Staedtler drawing ink (costs same as rotring ink), and said "Never again will I put you in a technical pen". ; )

This was a real ink rollercoaster of emotions! Just as I felt the answer was close, the carpet was whipped out from under me!

I actually put any ink in my tech pens. I'm just avoiding any experiments with my 0.1s and 0.2s, since even the official rotring ink can clog those nibs pretty desperately if left dormant for too long. I even tried to put watercolors + water inside my rotrings and they work. If you own a ultrasound cleaner, anything reasonably liquid will be fine for those penz.

@Cortesevasive

11 ай бұрын

watercolours are water soluble inks. They are not dangerous*

Nope you are not the only one 😃 I love my Rotring Rapidograph and my Staedtler Mars matic pens. The Ink is highly specialized for that kind of pens. However it's expensive and testing for other and cheaper inks is a good idea. I'm currently testing colour ink in fountainpens at the moment and it's good fun/info in doing so. Thx for your ink test on technical pens 😊

Thank you for the experimentation! Much appreciated :)

Thank for the insight as 😅am about to get my own set. This is very helpful🤙

I've been using Zig Sumi Ink 60 (the one with the white label) on a 0.2-0.7 Faber-Castell TG1 tech pens since I got it. The ink flow is closer to a ball-point pen and maintenance is easier since it's not completely waterproof.

Sumi is the Japanese pronunciation for the character (墨 on the bottle) for Chinese caligraphy and painting with brushes. It would be interesting to see you explore the way they are made for , and maybe incorporate some styles, techniques or ideas into your art!

Thanks for this video! I found some Koh-I-Noor Rapidiograph pens in a box, who knows how old, restored some of them, and, well, that's some expensive ink. I'll have to give the Sumi ink a go!

Thank you very much, I have 3 TP, 0.18 , 0.2, and a 0.3 and I was wondering if I should experiment with color ink and after I saw this, well, Im just putting Staedler ink on my smaller guys, 0.3 and up will experiment. Video was very helpful-

I like carbon black never thought of the price though

Have you tried using Speedball Superblack? I've used it a couple of times on a Koh-I-Noor Rapidograph but I haven't tested how long it takes for it to start drying.

@Ashsibe

Жыл бұрын

Interesting. Looks like a good quality India ink

@daikaiser9394

Жыл бұрын

So I got a new set of Isographs (was looking to replace a .30 that bent) so ended up with a second .20, I tried the Speedball Superblack on it and its been working fine, after leaving it uncapped for around 9 hrs a couple of shakes where enough to make it write again, it's been 3 days and the ink hasn't dried up. UPDATE: After seven days of having filled it, the ink hasn't dried up yet.

IDK how Amazon's service is in Aus but look up Liquidraw, they're basically a rOtring knockoff company who make similar products but more cheaply. I bought one of their .45 technical pens that's basically an isograph and their ink is pretty good all things considered and, at least for me in Scotland, literally 1/3rd or less the cost of rOtring brand ink.

Pelikan india ink 17 will work ok, also bourgeois black india ink. There is also a fountain pen that can be used with india ink, the indigraph

Pigment ink for printers, that I tried to use, flowing to much with the technical pen or the fountain pen. But I think I can add some kind of thickener. But what? Gum-arabic doesn't work. Maybe glycerin?

how about that chromacryl drawing ink. it claims it can go in technical pens. comes in 500ml bottles for around 30 aud.

I'm afraid to try that in my tech pen but I try Sumi ink in my 2$ fountain pen they work ok at fist but it 3-5 days they skip already.

You can't use noodler's black fountain pen ink in it? Cool video.

@shawnart101

Ай бұрын

No it's too thin and dries too quickly making a buildup an clog on the tip

I need this pen

I use Rotring black drawing ink in EVERYTHING! my Rotring technical pens, fountain pens, gold nib flex pens, brush pens, fountain brush pens, and even Airbrush. It's extremely dark black, permanent, Archival, lightfast and the most important thing... its 100% waterproof, copic proof, and bleach proof. As a full time professional artist, I need all of the above.... and Rotring ink gives it all. It also flows like no other pigmented black ink I've ever used. I have over 500 bottles of ink,... and many are " waterproof ", yet, after a couple years... they aren't so waterproof anymore. Rotring ink can also be thinned with water, and remain completely waterproof. Sumi ink is great for sketchbook work, and I solely use the sumi ink. It isn't waterproof, not lightfast, not Archival, not copic proof... and I can't even use other inks with it, because it bleeds into everything. I buy the Rotring black drawing ink in the 250ml big bottles on Amazon for 25$. I don't care how much it would cost... I would still buy Rotring, because my art depends on its durability, Lightfastness, 100% waterproof and being Archival and permanent. Iam not knocking you for using sumi ink, but for myself... I swear by Rotring ink for everything I do. Thanks for the vid mate, cheers

@Ashsibe

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for this detailed comment. Many good points. If Rotring ink was cheaper I wouldn't even consider putting Sumi ink in my technical pens. But where I live it is really expensive, the cost that I mention in the video is the cheapest 23ml bottle I could find. Often it is more like $20 for the 23ml one...Wow I just found $80 for the 250ml one, cheap around here... So I don't want to waste it if I'm just practicing drawing or something (Maybe I should have made that more clear in the video). I'm impressed that you've managed to make it work in fountain pens. Last time I tried that it was a horrible feeling experience even when it was working well. Maybe I'm overly fussy. One day I'll test how lightfast Sumi ink is. Under the Australian sun. When the weather warms up. Because I thought the lightfastness would be really good as it is full of carbon soot?

@danieljamesbinderystu2968

Жыл бұрын

@@Ashsibe yeah unfortunately as an artist living in Australia... supplies are triple the price you, unless they are local Australian brands. As for sumi inks in your technical pens... technical pens are extremely resilient, and can handle tons of stuff you put in them! I've have my full set of all the Rotring technical pens, in all their sizes... and I can't kill these pens! Now iam not saying that I don't take care of them, I definitely do. But, as for putting tons of different inks in them, from acrylic inks, dye based inks, pigmented watercolor inks, Dr Ph Martin Bombay India inks, Golden high flow Acrylics... you name it, I've probably used them in my Rotrings lol. Mine are almost a decade old, and still working beautifully. Also, I should have clarified that not ALL sumi inks are created equal, just like any other art supply or inks. The majority of sumi inks aren't lightfast, waterproof, etc etc... they werent made to stand up to the test of time. They were actually made to practice calligraphy on rice papers. They also have Gansai Tambi paints that are made with sumi inks, and they are extremely fugitive. Sumi inks are made of soot, but the majority of them are made from soy soot, which happens to have a weak carbon link, specially when applied in a aqueous solution. Which cause them to be able to break down much farther, from its " pigment form " Now there are Sumi inks that aren't made by traditional standards, and can be lightfast, and some are even waterproof... but they aren't technically sumi inks, and much more india inks, but nonetheless are labeled sumi inks. Like you said, test it out... and see how it goes! That is the smart way to do it, if you are concerned about that artwork created with it. I have gotten into the habit of doing that with ALL of my art supplies that I create finished artwork with, that is to be sold or gifted... because I do one off gallery pieces, that can destroy my reputation if I start having my exspensive artwork coming back to me, all faded and color shifted. I even test things that are " guaranteed to be lighfast ", because I have found discrepancies across all brands and mediums. Is it a huge pain in the a** ?? Absolutely, I literally own a fortune worth of art supplies... but once it all has been tested and cataloged with all the swatches that I do for each supply as well. I keep them all in ring binders that I seperate by medium and then color code them. But yeah, putting sumi ink in technical pens to save money, that's just smart my friend. Specially living in Australia, save your good stuff, for your good stuff lol. But it can also be a curse, because some people will get into a habit with the more exspensive supplies... they get a " precious " labeled applied to them... and then never get used at all. As for the Rotring ink in my fountain pens, ive never had any issues at all... because rotring ink has inpecable flow to it. I bought a hand full of really cheap Chinese knock off fountain pens, soley to test of stuff in them... so i can see how they will interact with what oam putting in them. So if they get messed up, no biggie... i just chuck them into the recycling bin. If you ever have any issues with something like flow, or bad behavior in a pen ( because its probably super hot in Australia) add a tiny bit of oxgall to your inks, it will break the surface tension, and give it excellent flow. You can also add a tiny bit of gum arabic for better adhesion, Glycerin to slow drying time and flow... and ive even added some of my Golden high flow acrylic medium to inks that arent acrylic... which makes them permanent and acrylic, with better flow. Play around with your inks, if you are having issues. Just be aware not to put anything acrylic in fountain pens lol. Most of my fountain pens though, are rather exspensive gold flex nibs, that have custom ebonite feeds and have be modified by a nib meister for extra extra flex. But i have also had zero problems in my noodlers pens, and low priced regular fountain pens. Anyways, I've ranted and geeked out enough on art supplies lol. Have a great one mate

@Ashsibe

Жыл бұрын

@@danieljamesbinderystu2968 Thank you for your long and insightful comment. Gives me lots of 'meat to chew on'.😀

@dramaticona

Жыл бұрын

¿Do you know if the staedtler ink is Copic proof?

@danieljamesbinderystu2968

Жыл бұрын

@@dramaticona hey there... I have always used Rotring Black drawing ink. I know staedtler makes technical pens like Rotring, and their Ink for their Technical pens, they have 2 different types. They have pigmented inks and dye based inks for their technical pens. If you get the staedtler black ink that is pigmented, yes that is copic proof... because that is the exact ink they use in their fineliners as well. Their dye based inks for their technical pens usually come in a bunch of different colors and will say Dye or pigmented on the bottles... they use the pigmented inks in their fineliners that typically are copic proof. But I know they used to have both; dye based ink, and pigmented inks.... just make sure you buy the ones that are pigmented inks, I know for a fact they are copic proof.

Anyone tried using Yasutomo Sumi in a marsomatic?

I'm pretty sure that if the ink your using or any other ink that contains shellac? Well, you can get ready to buy new pens or cry then try cleaning but without any solvent because they could literally melt away. Or, I did this in a parallel universe living in a dream that really was a f**cking nightmare. But hey would appreciate if it is what it is... or no?

Bruh!?! Same Rotring ink here cost 8-9 $ Change your art supply.

I need waterproof as I water color over it

@Ashsibe

Жыл бұрын

Then you need the Rotring ink.

@Fungondickandrew

Жыл бұрын

Try India Ink.

People who use fountain pens: 🗿