Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a Carbide burrs: amzn.to/33PL5jK Porting rolls: amzn.to/2JKwxee Hold it like a pen: amzn.to/2VImJ7b Hold it like a man: amzn.to/36OWPVy

A rotary tool with a flexible shaft extension is really useful for doing this! The much smaller and lighter head allows you to hold it in one hand like a pencil whilst using your other hand as a rest/brace for your wrist.

@d4a

3 жыл бұрын

True! Definitely a good tip

Back in the day I did this to a Datsun 120Y head. It made the engine rev up significantly better. It brought me about 8 mph extra topspeed.

@spiderdanielcoetser9148

3 жыл бұрын

Im busy with my nissan L28 portinG .. And adding a Little turbo on to

@ThunderBassistJay

3 жыл бұрын

@@spiderdanielcoetser9148 Porting my GT86's boxer engine isn't that easy. The engine even has to be lifted to change spark plugs. 😬 On the other hand, I love the car as it is.

@spiderdanielcoetser9148

3 жыл бұрын

@@ThunderBassistJay Toyota pretty good pistons to head is vital

@spiderdanielcoetser9148

3 жыл бұрын

Nice car a 86

@spiderdanielcoetser9148

3 жыл бұрын

In my prof foto is myne car .. Its been sprayed bLaCk by me now

Don't push too hard on the carbide and it will never skip, that's also how you break teeth on it. Always let the rotation of the tool do the work - you will get the most life out of your carbide that way as well. There are also certain angles you should be using based on the type of carbide shape. Even as it dulls, you can lessen your pressure on it(which will lessen it's effectiveness) but allow you to keep using it. Most people just toss it for a new one, but when you are buying your own carbides, you will appreciate making as much use of each one as possible. I haven't taken my heads off yet, but I will definitely try this should I ever have to do a headgasket or something!

That's something I could sit n do for HOURS. Satisfying to clean up metal. Similar to cleaning up welds.

@ToxicMrSmith

3 жыл бұрын

Then go be a fettler in a Foundry. I lasted half a day before walking out of that job.

@SirCavemaninthewest

3 жыл бұрын

@@ToxicMrSmith That sounds tiring... what was the foundry specialized in? I worked for Twin city fan in, IA.

@mikerieck306

3 жыл бұрын

​@@ToxicMrSmith Yeah....the novelty wears off very quickly.

@ToxicMrSmith

3 жыл бұрын

@@mikerieck306 couldn't do it , got handed a die grinder and went though maybe 7 - 800 parts and gave that shit up real quick.

@ToxicMrSmith

3 жыл бұрын

@@SirCavemaninthewest Cast iron. Sorry for the late reply, had notifs turned off

After hearing your title explanation, then I guess the car once is finished it will be fast as F, right?. oh no, even faster!

@joshuachauke1652

3 жыл бұрын

Good

Those sanding strips are lifesavers for a clean short turn

Put painters tape on the valve seats. you can hit them accidently without doing damage.

@clearclearerjesus4717

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah i did the same. Just put some tape over the valve seat to protect it.

@rafaeldiegonavarro

3 жыл бұрын

or use a mill .

@CP110

3 жыл бұрын

@@rafaeldiegonavarro no, regular mill will not be able to the bowls. You would need a 5 axis cnc machine. And at a price tag of 184,000 usd. Some tape, steady hands and some carbide burs is way more practical.

@rafaeldiegonavarro

3 жыл бұрын

@@CP110 ahhh gotcha . makes sense now

@dennisludwig6780

2 жыл бұрын

You will loose a lot of Power!!

That was awesome to watch, I'm disappointed it was so short, please sir can I have some more?

@TomSlickery

3 жыл бұрын

That's what she said.

@esnevip

3 жыл бұрын

Check out jafromobile he has a great long series on the subject, and many other aspects of engine building.

@Pianissimo1970

3 жыл бұрын

@@TomSlickery I was going to write that :-)

Good to see your dad helping you with the grinding. You look just like him minus the caterpillar on his lip. Ha ha

@bagelbandit6076

3 жыл бұрын

@Victor Smit did you seriously wait 6 months so you could comment this on Father’s Day?! Ha ha priceless

You really know engines! Good to see there are others out there still. Most 'Performance' shops don't know how to do this anymore.

My old VX220 had a ported head, I've never seen it done though. Thanks for the video.

Not gonna lie, with homemade methods this is full pro. Amazing video mate!

Very nice video, such a simple and elegant way to explain things! Always remove casting flash even if it doesn't affect performance. Small chunks/chips of weak and long/webby casting flash sometimes breaks off due to changing vibrations. These chips gouge and marr various surfaces on their way through the oil galleries before getting caught by the oil filter. For everyday engines, this happens on a very tiny scale within the run-in period, and the pieces are so small that they don't do significant damage. But when you're driving flat-out for any significant amount of time, this is one step avoids pretty significant costs later on, especially considering how little time it takes. If the engine is open, might as well do it now! Also read up on surface finishing techniques including grinding, burnishing, lapping, honing, scraping & polishing. A carbide burr and sandpaper rolls aren't the only tools in the arsenal. You can use a plethora of cheap and plentiful tools to take your game to the next level. P.S. If anyone wants to validate this "theory" for merit, all you need to do is inspect any internal surface of an engine with a cheap USB microscope. Even at 50x magnification, the tell-tale marks appear gigantic. If your microscope can get to 500x, well, you can see something like the surface of the moon within your engine. 🤣🤣

YESSSSSS! Project underdog is back!!!! I want to port my own cylinder heads maybe, so this will be good to watch. Thanks for all your videos!

@davidparker9676

3 жыл бұрын

I highly recommend that you don't port you own heads. Pay a professional or learn on scrap heads or your good heads will become scrap. It is easy to screw up, and this video is not a good example of what to do.

@GW2_Live

3 жыл бұрын

@@davidparker9676 I'm considering it, not set on it yet, may just get performance heads next year, they are quite expensive as I have a car not many people make parts for

@davidparker9676

3 жыл бұрын

@@GW2_Live If it is a street car, spend your money on the machine work and a good multi-angle valve job. I am a professional porter and I get tired of telling people why their car is slower on the street after they asked for a full race port job. Stock ports will support much more power than most street cars will ever make. Polishing the ports will actually hurt the tumble and swirl effects that keep the fuel atomized. The chambers also have a certain amount of squish that direct the intake mixture toward the plug. The factory has a lot more engineering and development into the stock head than this KZreadr can ever undo in his basement with his die grinder.

@qkurd9141

3 жыл бұрын

@@davidparker9676 my very first port job, was on my cylinder head at I did not screwed it! It was even my first experience with die grinder! Imagine I bought the electrical die grinder with some flexible part for it to do the grinding and I did not know the name of carbides that I needed! It is just fine as long as not using strong carbides, tightening up the cylinder head, have a tight seat, lots of light and hours of time! He just needs to start from inlet side as it is biggest hole in the cylinder head. Of course I started with exhaust side as it was least important place. So don't scare him please

@qkurd9141

3 жыл бұрын

@@davidparker9676 wrong! I am sick of people who believe they don't know shit, and factories know everything! Have you ever heard of production cost? Factory needs a profit margin and making cnc cylinder head for the cars that 99.9% of them will be used by people who have no idea what is the cylinder head is not reasonable! So what car-people can do??? costumize the parts to gain performance! Factories make cars for alllllllllll of different types of users and conditions. But you are one specific person who run his car in a certain condition. So why not costum the car for your specific use? Dyno has proved that port and polish works!

Aluminum dust is not good for health so I would recommend a mask that can filter the that dust. For example it is thought to be linked with Alzheimer’s disease among other health effects. I’m digging your videos thanks you for the effort and time.

@psiturbo

Жыл бұрын

Besides having a mask... Spray wd-40 to lube down the dust, and have a vacuum running pointed to the cylinder head to pick up any air particles. I go as far as spray some oil to the table and have a wetted paper towel on it under the CH.

@cimfur

Жыл бұрын

@@psiturbo right on good idea

@themotobarn702

Жыл бұрын

Great point! Also, please, PLEASE wear safety goggles!!! I just learned that lesson after getting very fine cast iron dust in my eyes from porting my turbo exhaust manifold, and I was wearing glasses! Felt pain in my eyes hours later when I went to bed. Not fun! Flushing them out like crazy and seeing an optometrist today just to be sure. In the end, wear proper PPE!!!

@firstNamelastName-ho6lv

5 ай бұрын

Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzheimer's. Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzheimer's. Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzheimer's. Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzh.... Didn't I say that already?

So glad I discovered your channel! Your knowledge and sense of what gear heads want from a video is just stellar 👍

Again you have so much detail of the airflow. How it moves and what to do to help it. I love engines and that is what you know a lot about! Thank you for helping me learn too!

Thanks again for another session of performance boot camp.your knowledge and skill examples are very much appreciated. Keep informing the people...

I well remember meticulously working on cast iron heads many years ago, correcting the shortcomings of mass production and whatever else was in play. Back then, there was no practical way of tuning a modified engine, the normal practice being to engage the services of someone "experienced" to drive the car and change the fuel metering needles in the SU carburetors until performance felt right. This procedure had been researched and found to wildly inadequate according to articles in serious journals but as twenty year olds, we did our best on meager budgets. My car felt very fast to me. but since the starting point was an engine that barely ran, it was not a meaningful comparison. It was only upon driving an unmodified car in reasonable condition that I recognized my error. My improvements had succeeded in throwing the mixture ratio and ignition timing out the window and trial and error was not a path to getting anywhere near adequate results. I had cut the power down by at least fifty percent while doubling fuel consumption. Lesson learned. (For the record, I'm sure you were not going to make the same mistake.)

Great job, taking advantage of a better port geometry of F head is a great idea, thank You for Your videos and knowledge

I love watching your videos...they're so therapeutic! Gosh I remember when I ported my 2ZZ head little over 10 years ago....I spent 18 hours doing it over a long sunny weekend here in London.

awesome video as always, D4A! You do such a good job of explaining these technical topics.

Killing the moustache game

Nice video, some really good tips. For future reference though, please please please wear safety glasses when you do this! A carbide burr spinning at a couple thousand RPMs can easily send a piece of metal straight into your eye. Potentially losing part of your vision for few extra horses really isn't worth it. Work smart, work safe.

@jockellis

2 жыл бұрын

A magnet like eye doctors use to get steel out of your eye doesn’t work on aluminum.

Everything you do should add a few horsepower. From the crank to the induction it all adds up to good power gains! Love your videos

Best, most informative porting video on KZread. You know your stuff Amico.

I have pulled metal out of my eye ball twice, the last time an eye doctor had a miniature Dremel getting the metal out. I also wore safety eye glasses last time around but it was summer time and right after I finished using a die grinder cleaning my weld tacks, I turned on the fan and it pushed all the metal passed my glasses. When you do this type of work, I highly recommend a face shield. This is the type of work why they invented a face shield to begin with. I am not trying to sound like a concerned Karen but you have to think about the Noobs taking lessons of what you are teaching. They will learn the good and the bad.

Honestly wasn't expecting that good of a job!

Digging the stash, bro! It's good to see some new episodes up

I have always been drawn to porting & polishing and would have love to get into it. Time constraints were always an issue when I had the opportunities. Thanks for these vids!

What i love about what your saying is that you know exactly what you want good work bro

I would imagine smoothing sharp edges must have some impact on how smoothly the combustion mixture flows away from squish areas and how it swirls. Likely reducing sudden heat risers and I would think improving the overall burn. Given you're going forced induction, I'm guessing most of your gains here will be from the exhaust work, which looks very nice. Pure speculation on my part though. Great work as always.

Simple and informative video, really awesome video, love it

@honeyglazeham9621

3 жыл бұрын

True quality content, I will pay for this.

by the looks of it you can skim the F out of cylinder head to rise compression ratio for N/A aplication

@thomas316

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah, porting for forced induction engines is really a bit of a waste if time but tidying up the casting is worthwhile.

Nice video! Always enjoy your stuff. Suggestions for you for the next head you port. Use a Dremel with the flex shaft attachment. Much easier to get around those tight corners due to the small handle and light weight. The other one is to use some heavy tape to protect the valve seats. You can even put a washer between layers of tape for added protection. That'll keep them safe no matter how many beers you had before you start porting the head. (Yes, its funny how many things seem like a good idea after a few beers...)

So after doing a ton of discussions with engine guys here in MI, USA I found that you never need to grind larger than 91% of the intake valve opening. Thought your works looks like that or just below. I have saved this to view in porting my own head as "what it should look like" . My application the intake flow can be overcome with boost as my daily driver is a Saab. It does serve to do this work for racing applications but not for everyday driving. Porting the mating surfaces works for that. Also.. I would LOVE you to do a video on P&P of the turbo exhaust housing. Next chance you get....No one does that stuff and pulling a little radius here and there makes them spool soooo much faster. My TD04 needed 150g of metal taken out of the turbine manifold flange. It was silly just a round hole on the turbine housing and the manifold was an open square. Can wait to get it running.

Great job, It looks very professional.

smooth and satisfying!

Very pleased to see doing what I am doing with my old prewar car. Not for much power, more gaining reliability. It was misused in the past, lot damage and have to make own internal parts, like piston, as these are not available. Biggest problem, to find likeminded and knowledge sharing people. Thanks for this upload!!

@thomasevans3097

6 ай бұрын

I’m curious about which pre war car you have..?

Great stuff, and great work - looks good! As a dude whose background is in CNC machining and working with metal stuff: wear eye protection! All it takes is one little speck that happens to be sharp to cut its way into your eyeball, it's not worth it! I had a friend who even had an eyelash get into his eye and pierce its way into his eyeball. If an eyelash can pierce an eyeball little metal chips most certainly can wreck havoc.

Grinding metal without safety glasses... smart, lol...

Her: **What those finger do?** Him: 7:58

@juanpaVlz

3 жыл бұрын

Lol

@elementaljosh

3 жыл бұрын

Them exhaust ports got me actin strange 😳

@hellgateiscloseddontgother8736

3 жыл бұрын

Lol

I went through this on my 22re years ago with similar methods and was happy with the high-rpm results without losing anything down low. I feel gasket/port matching and bowl work were where the most gains were made.

Idk if I'm going to need to Port my d16y8 head much, but this is definitely a good vid for some tips and tricks. I definitely agree with cleaning up flash it just feels better to have a cleaner looking product. I had a job were I worked on Chevy heads so I'm pretty familiar with valve seats and cleaning up the ports and such

Doing this on my 4E-FE head! Thanks for the inspiration. Cheers

PORT MATCH! Not gasket match. Gaskets do not determine how components line up during assembly. I love your sand paper technique. I never thought of that before.

i learn so much from this channel

Good to see your back and that top look so good now . Nice to see how its done. It will be interesting to look what power you get on it this aw11, she will taxing out and fly.

I'd be very interested in seeing the power figures when it's done.

Great stuff man!

Great video. Hit the mark on all aspects of this. Aluminum is a dream to work with. Cast iron takes a bit more effort 😁

Great Video! Thank you for helping explain the trade-off in porting and polishing it's definitely not just removing all that silly metal the factory left😅. We got some tools you might want to check out some day. Could make projects like this much easier and more precise. Actually they could be used on lots of your projects. Thanks for putting great content out.

For the intake I would give it a light sandblasting with low pressure to lightly ruffen the port for air/fuel mixture you want to keep it mixed.. That is a good choice of cleaning up the oil Gally I chamfer the edges as well as clean up the cast marks I do this to all my motors.. My exhaust ports I pollish like a mirror... I don't know what you block looks like but if there are ruff casting burrs I take those down as well it helps in many ways if oils drips down and also strengthens the block I remember seeing a few old V-8's crack almost in half from Tork... I'm glad to hear you say about measuring the combustion chambers to make them equal.... Casting flash please do remove it if it chips off can do lots of damage and strengthens the block from cracking it might seem like it don't matter but it really does... Very good job... But never polish the intake port keep it ruff for air /fuel mixture but combustion chamber and exhaust ports polish like a mirror.. looks like you did a very good job on that one on two of my race motors going all out with a good 100 H.P. gains then my spare milder street heads a good 75 H.P. gains Keep up the good work ... P.S. I don't know if this would apply to you motor or not but on my Oldsmobile's on the big end of the crankshaft I had an oil relief slot ground on the side 1/2" wide by 25Thousands deep I also put oil restriction in my camshaft oil Gally and chamfered my crankshaft oil galleys along with cross drilling them with a bigger oil pan and high volume oil pump with bigger pickup tube..

On modern performance engines some nice tooling is used to replicate the valve seat blending on mass. For example during guide boring on the f type v8, the reaming tool also cuts and blends the seats on the same pass. Clever stuff, but again on really seen on higher performance vehicles

Thank you so much, I wonder if I can make a living doing this for others? This seems like therapy to me.

@d4a

3 жыл бұрын

Lots of people make a living doing this and related work 😊

Welcome back. Hope the family is well.

@d4a

3 жыл бұрын

All good, thank you 😊

Always gets me about people who think they can do professionals jobs giving out advice but then admit they don’t have a clue ha ha cracks me up every time , just like a loose fitting gasket you port Match without no way of installing it back holding the same placement

Awesome job, that head looks really good after that work

Can you please do a n/a 4afe with port and polish and some other tips to get it running strong. I currently have a 4afe producing 90.6kw & 159nm with only exhaust header and a 50mm exhaust back box + induction Would be awesome to see what you do to get some tips bro

I have ported 3 single cylinder twin port bike heads a honda xr600,a KTM 660 and a Rotax 551.A tool shop chain in the UK sells a 3 pack of 30mm diameter X 5mm flap wheel that I use in my Dremel.They are ideal for my porting work and find porting heads quite thereputic.

I ported heads for several engines in my racing days. I used roll pins to locate the intake and a thin aluminium sheet to transfer the openings the intake so the connection was perfect. Then RTV silicone instead of a gasket. The exhaust burned any protruding into the port but the cylinder head temp was not enough to burn the seal. Same with the intake, the fuel won't melt the silicone in the sealed area. I also made the seats at the very edge of the valves so the valve acted like a bigger one, then shaped the port to round into the seat. Better flow measured on a flow bench. Lastly, leave the port a little rough past the injector or the fuel will not evaporate well on a polished surface. Prove that with an air blower on a sheet of glass with fuel on it.

The flat are in combustion chamber is quench pads , used for the placement of the mix with in the cylinder , run the intakes rough say 80 or 60 grit , think of it like a mirror , breath on a mirror and the condensation sticks to the mirror , same with fuel droplets , good work

pretty good explanation, thank you and good luck with your project. I'd like to rebuild my engine and while everything is taken apart... I might also do this.

Casting flash? Sounds like weight reduction material. ;]

well done mate. keep it going

The machinist I see will do custom seats and with initial cuts and throat cuts for me so i can do flashing removal and whatever porting. Then i bring it back and he will finish cut and match valves. Gives a little bit more working room usually inside the bowl and runner and you have a small bit of forgiveness if you bump the seats because it will be cleaned up later. I highly recommend looking around for someone who can do this to. It sounds extensive but it's not uncommon and it really makes your job of porting (even if its mild) so much easier to see and do. Good video all around for the diy and why 👍

Excellent video, I wonder what effects this would have to a turbo diesel?

Yes, definitely need eye protection. Fishing a metal chip or a sandpaper grit out of your eye really sucks, and you’ll only be doing that once before always keeping eye protection at the porting bench...if you’re lucky enough that nothing was damaged in the process. Sanding rolls in the bowls are a bit risky to valve seats (and naked eyes 😉...) due to their tendency to unexpectedly shed pieces, grow flaps, or sometimes outright self destruct. I carefully use a nice rounded profile carbide burr to fix the core shift and casting flash and finish either with a rubber abrasive cartridge or by hand (I prefer hand finishing myself...especially for exhaust ports...it really does finish a lot smoother than any rotary tool, especially if you are going for absolute maximum power potential). Also, there are a lot of benefits to a raw carbide finish in the intake ports. It acts like a wick and helps vaporize fuel on the walls, among a few other things that would turn this comment into an essay (and the added bonus of saving a lot of finishing stages).

Another awesome video

The mismatch on exhaust is probably deliberate as it helps prevent reversion. Generally, leave about 3~5mm 'step' at least half way around port turning it into a 'D' laying on it's 'flat' The main areas of improvement are just below seat on short turn and the 'throat' where port should be 'necked' at a smaller diameter to increase gas speed. To un-shroud valves, I find it's better to do some math and make a 'washer on a stick' to check clearance. I usually use a piece of plastic cutting board (nylon/polyethelene, cheapest you can find) use a hole saw to get 'blank' then put a bolt in it and spin in electric drill. File to about 45 degree angle with whatever the max dia you work out. Cut a smaller one or two to get 'correct' throat diameters (usually 80%~87% of valve diameter, maybe a little more with forced induction. You need about 0.20 of valve diameter at closest point to head at about a quarter of valve diameter lift (ie, 35mm dia valve x 0.25= 8.75mm lift with 7mm clearance,or, a 49mm washer.) It isn't always possible if valves are close to combustion chamber edge but angled valves are usually pretty good for un-shrouding as lift increases. I used to work almost exclusively on motorcycles but have built a couple of quick cars in the past (150mph Opel Manta GTE as daily driver, only did about 25mpg though, wasn't possible for me to drive it 'slow')

Great! Man you are my #1 KZreadr! I do love the way you look into mechanic. We are pretty much identical while talking about cars! Although I love motorbikes as well. Right know I'm working on force inducting a MPI II 3.3, Inlet VVT. I am using the stock internal with below changes: genuine pistons (I have cut the head for 0.09mm to decrease C.Ratia), connecting rods (there are different kinds of C.Rods, mine are great), oil pump (I have lowered cogwheel teeth to speed it up also by tightening the return valve and lowering the inside cogwheels capacity, I have increased the oil pressure as this engine is famous for bearing problems). Cylinder head (prt & plsh+increasing ignition chamber vol.by grinding walls and buttom of the valves) I also have a motorbike (Hyosung GT250R under turbolization🤣 which is my most advance project with ⅔ of the internal replaced with cnc mashined parts. The last project is a Peugeot 405 which does have ECU, complete inj. system, wtr-met inj., turbo, 1.3 supercharger, a costume turbo, intercooler, costume water and oil radiator merged together, but it has no engine yet. I can't decide what to put into her! I just want it to be AWD + 4 inline. Is it fine to ask your advice time to time!? I am United Nations employee, but I have 12 years of tuning experience, although I have only 6 force inducting projects in my resume, which 3 of'em are not finished yet!

@qkurd9141

3 жыл бұрын

Gosh I've wrote an essay!!! Sorry dude...

Nice job man. You should also go for a) "3 angle job" b) cfm for perfect balance and max results

beautiful video

You explain dammn good😁😁

Going to port the heads on my v-12. Even though I've done it before, I still enjoy watching these amazing videos to inspire and motivate me for the task ahead.

@faxxzc

3 жыл бұрын

Jonah Woodside damn are you finished yet? porting 48 ports must take ages

@adrianhoeben5783

3 жыл бұрын

What type of car you gonna be working on, like a Jaguar or Toyota crown.

@woodyTM

3 жыл бұрын

@@faxxzc ran out of free time, been too busy with client work to even touch my own projects, hopefully I'll be able to finish up in the next month.

@woodyTM

3 жыл бұрын

@@adrianhoeben5783 A Jaguar 5.3L from an 1989 XJS. Haven't had a whole lot of time to work on it, which is a blessing in disguise because the car is in extremely good condition so I get to really experience it stock which, in turn, would either persuade me to keep it stock if I'm happy with it or dive into a long rabbit hole of significant modifications with very little performance gains. As far as my research takes me, porting these heads hardly make much of a difference, but since I plan on doing just about everything you can do, the dozens of small number gains add up in the very end.

@adrianhoeben5783

3 жыл бұрын

@@woodyTM Oh wow :o I figured it could have been a Jag engine, funnily enough I have an 89 Daimler xj40. Its the slant 6 4L but could imaging a v12 :D , XJS's are a beautiful car.

1 tip i can add is blending the valve seat into the roof of the chamber. It really helps low lift flow. Just imagine the valve ar .100 lift and you have a .05 wall for the air to get around.

LOVE your videos. So informative. I have a 3S-GE I plan to pair with a small supercharger from an SLK and put into a FWD Starlet or light weight Corolla eventually, and your videos are great for learning about what is involved, what to do and what not to do. Keep up the great work, looking forward to learning more. One question: can you do these porting jobs with electric/battery powered tools? I have a small one car garage so don't have a lot of space (or money) for things like a compressor or a set of air tools. I already have a bunch of battery powered tools I would like to reuse as much as possible. Not looking to do a whole lot of material removal, mostly cleaning out the imperfections and perhaps a little bit of flow improvement on the intake ports in the head.

Good video, good information.

A good tip for porting its using ballstones and keep them allways wet with WD40 and low r.p.m. it helps keeping same diameter and very smooth surfaces especially near the bowl .Very nice chanel and nice porting...

Nice job here, good quality finish. Have you thought about making a video about porting, gasket matching, and finishing of the intake side and throttle body of an 4A-FE?

I've done my gl1100 heads... Not for performance but more efficiency. I have also polished them with scotch brite wheels in my dremel. Looking forward to running it.

Very nice work 👍 I have a 7afe 1993 from a dx waggon 27k miles ported intake manifold made a huge difference and upgraded to msd ignition... I did a lot of work on my corolla as my picture shows tops at 160 mph 😁👍

Love your job

You can build a simple flow bench with a shop vac and a vacuum gauge to make sure you're head is flow matched it won't give an indication of power potential though.

Great video...Thank you very much

More videos of project underdog please! Mo’ powah!

I got the most gains out of porting the intake plenum elbow on my V8 it had high sidewall corners that needed removal and dimpling the floor and 90 degrees radius also helped. 17hp and 26tq to the wheels for 4 hours of time and basically zero cost if you have tools was a very hard to beat upgrade without even touching the throttle body at all.

beautiful video.

The video I never knew I needed.

Been doing this for 30 years found out a long time ago taking a SS 1/4 hex bolt 4 in cut off threads and hex head an slot bolt about a 1) inch and put green scotch bright in it and polish final port does a great job

Thanks for the tutorial style video. When it comes to gasket matching intake ports is there any risk of getting into a water channel?

@d4a

3 жыл бұрын

Definitely not

You can get even smoother results and less dust going everywhere by periodically spraying some alcohol on the head. That's essentially what the coolant for machining aluminum is

Good job😉😎

mask it up! don't breathe aluminum dust!! I can certainly appreciate the work going into this though!!

Words of wisdom at the start of this video. Head porting is like a camshaft, too big and it will only work at high rpm. While regular driving suffers from too much porting!

awesome, nice vid

That mustache is fantastic

Well explained

mirror polishing head exhaust ports and intake ports shows some performance improvement mainly in heat efficiency