After about 15 brews on the system, it is fun to see all the little things you’ll learn to make the brew day easier! Big fan of the foundry

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

I've had two Grainfathers but between the high density burners being easy to scorch even the thinnest wort, which was a nightmare to clean and the software which works great sometimes and then other times it is simply unreliable I was extremely happy to move over to the new Anvil Foundry system. I am doing my 3rd brew today on it and finally at 220 this time around which is extremely nice. I love the low density burners and the ability to switch between 110 and 220. Doing an Apricot Saison today.

Really enjoying the videos!!! Keep it up!!!

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you and I am working to release a bit of variety but I still have lots of home brews in the pipe from flavored brews to big IPAs.

Great video! I just received my Foundry and I am going to make a Pale Ale this weekend. Got some great tips from you on. Cheers!

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

Awesome product, just remove the lid gasket and if anyone is assisting you have them hold the grain basket support ring when moving the grain basket as those are the only two items that drove me nuts on the first few brews. (The support ring is still an issue but it appears Short Circuit Brewing may have come up with a special clamp to fix that.) Good luck and have fun.

@ceedee20

4 жыл бұрын

Bitter Reality Brewing Thank you for the reply. I ended up not having an issue with the silicone lid ring (thankfully). And I was able to open the steel support ring just a bit, so it didn’t move during the brew. I did need a step ladder to stand on to lift the mash tube! Still, a great brew day... thanks again for the videos!

Man, what a down pour, but even so, any day when beer is made is a GREAT day. I enjoyed watching the video. According to the brewing instructions and ingredients Pliny the Elder clone is distillers beer. The single temperature infusion method and high modified, malt are used in grain distillation. The liquid is called distillers beer, the slang term is moonshiners beer. To produce ale and lager with the method, malt would need to contain magical properties in order for low temperature activated enzymes to work at a single, high temperature without denaturing, which is impossible. Strike and target temperature are useless for producing ale due to the way that enzymes work. The homebrew method produces chemically imbalance, sugar imbalanced, and unstable, extract. When yeast is added off flavors develop during fermentation and conditioning. Homebrew is artificially carbonated and pounded down when it is still green because shelf life is short. A grain distillers soaks malt at 150F because Alpha releases the highest amount of simple sugar, glucose, from simple starch, amylose, within an hour. The more glucose, the more alcohol. Also, the high temperature denatures Beta. The enzyme isn't needed for making whiskey and it gets in the way. Beta is responsible for conversion. Alpha is responsible for liquefaction, saccharification, dextrinization and gelatinization. This is the way it works during mashing. Alpha activates and liquefies 1-4 links in the amylose starch chain. When the link is liquefied two chains form. The one chain is called the reducing end and the other chain is the nonreducing end. The reducing end contains 1-4 links which Alpha continues to liquefy until all of the links are liquefied, and when that happens, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar remain. The higher the rest temperature, the sweeter the beer and lower in ABV. The nonreducing end is simple sugar, glucose. Glucose is responsible for primary fermentation and ABV. The only purpose of Alpha is to release glucose, one of three building blocks of life, from starch. Our saliva contains amylase and it works quite efficiently at 98.6F. There's a tribe of headhunters that makes homebrew from some type of root that contains starch. The starch doesn't contain Alpha and for liquefaction and saccharification to occur, the lady headhunters spit into the mash. I have an idea. Contact someone in the homebrew empire and tell them that a new style of beer has been invented. If there's someone with a KZread/TV show about homebrewing or that has a website that offers a few thousand recipes for ale and a program that allows homebrewers the opportunity to create their own world class brewing recipes, that's the guy to call. Dream up a few screwy names, and create a few dozen recipes that use 10 or 13 different specialty malts, and a dozen or two bags of different hops in each brew. The amount of spit can be varied in recipes to create subcategories. Spit can be flavored with Big Red or Winter Mint gum to produce holiday style beer. Add in that it only takes a week or two to produce the beer and it doesn't require boiling. It will go good with the other one or two hundred other styles of homebrew. Beta is responsible for conversion at 140F. Beta converts glucose released by Alpha during liquefaction, turning the sugar into complex types of sugar, maltose and maltotriose, which are the types of sugar that produces ale and lager. When conversion occurs, secondary fermentation takes place because yeast works on complex sugar differently than it works on glucose. An enzyme within yeast converts maltose back into glucose during secondary fermentation. When conversion occurs beer doesn't require priming sugar or CO2 to carbonate. Beer naturally carbonates during conditioning due to maltotriose. Natural carbonation is much finer than bubbles made from artificial means. The reason why homebrew dries and thins out has to do with a type of heat resistant, complex starch contained in malt called amylopectin. Amylopectin makes up the tips of starch and it is the richest starch in malt. The starch contains A and B limit dextrin which are tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar responsible for body and mouthfeel in beer. The temperatures used to make homebrew aren't high enough to cause the starch to burst before Alpha denatures and the richest starch in malt is thrown out with the spent mash and that's why homebrew dries and thins out. To take advantage of the starch, mash is boiled as in the decoction method. When Alpha liquefies amylopectin, dextrinization and gelatinization occurs. The only time dextrinization occurs in the homebrew method happens when amylose contains a 1-6 link in the starch chain, which is extremely, rare. The finest beer is produced from dextrinous extract, not from extract containing mainly sweet tasting, nonfermenting sugar, and glucose. When the triple decoction method is used the main mash is step mashed, and many times the decoctions are step mashed, as well. The beer produced doesn't dry and thin out due to dextrinization and gelatinization taking place. A brewer will limit the amount of certain types of sugar to dry out the beer, but it is controlled. Beer brewed with the triple decoction method is chemically balanced, sugar balanced, and stabile. The beer has a much longer shelf life than homebrew. Step mashing and the decoction method works with under modified, low protein, malt. Weyermann floor malt and Gladfield's, American Malt are under modified. Click on Gladfield's website and find American malt, on the page is the spec sheet for the malt, part way down on the sheet is Kolbach. The Kolbach number determines level of modification. Malt with 40 Kolbach and lower is under modified. Under modified, malt is much richer in enzyme content than high modified, malt. The protein content in malt should be less than 10 percent. The less protein, the more sugar in malt. Homebrew malt is 42 to 46 Kolbach and 12 to 16 percent protein. The higher the Kolbach number and protein content, the less suitable the malt is for producing ale and lager. The malt contains mostly Alpha and it's deficient in enzymes that produce ale and lager. That's why it is less expensive than brewers grade malt. A spec sheet comes with each bag of malt and it's used for determining the quality of malt before purchasing it. A recipe that recommends two row American malt is similar to asking a person to purchase a two door, American car without any specs. Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise are high quality, distillers malt. Marris Otter is an odd ball. There's a certain malt house, I can't remember which one, that produces eight percent protein, malt. That would be the best malt to use for making high octane, homebrew. The malt is over modified causing low diastatic power. When adjuncts like corn or rice are used, six row malt has to be added. Skim off hot break as it forms and continue to remove hot break until it drastically reduces before adding hops. Less hops are needed because the extract is cleaner. Skim off second break, as well. Purchase hops that have the percentage of Beta and the percentage of Alpha written on the bag. Without knowing the percentage of Beta the quality of the hop cannot be determined. The Alpha and Beta numbers should be within a decimal point of each other. The closer the numbers, the finer and more balanced the hop. To learn how to make ale and lager start with deClerks books. The best books are Wulf's 1958 and 1959 journals. Abstracts from the IOB are free, online. The IOB made malt, modern, in the 19th century. In the 20th century a bunch of advertisers invented CAMRA and they renamed distillers beer and Prohibition beer, ale, and profits soared.

@BitterRealityBrewing

3 жыл бұрын

Impressed would be an understatement as you just explained why when I use to do step mashing sometimes I would get an off/unwanted after taste that no one seem to be able to tell me why. It would be due to an probably an excessive amounts of Beta over Alpha. Also the spit makes a lot more sense why Chicha beer works a little differently due to them prechewing the corn as they are actually infusing more Amylase. All of that info was like a summary of good read about beer.

The basket ring is meant to stay on all the time. Not sure what the issue was? When you lift the basket out, as you get near the top, you give it a slight twist to clear the ring, then one past, twist it back and set it down.

@BitterRealityBrewing

3 жыл бұрын

Not sure what you are brewing with but GrainFather has a groove which keeps it in place all of the time. I love my Anvil as I left GF to Anvil but the Anvil it simply rests on a lip and if you have used the Anvil you will know the handle sits in the way, so you have to lift it to get it out of the way and if you don't bump it your all good but you really shouldn't have to be that careful. Anvil actually has a fix from what I've seen and heard but haven't seen the little clamps/brackets for sale which would help keep it in place even if you bumped it.

@SteveBenson

3 жыл бұрын

@@BitterRealityBrewing Weird. I have the Anvil and don't have this issue.

@BitterRealityBrewing

3 жыл бұрын

@@SteveBenson I wish I didn't but in my newer videos (this one was my first brew on the Anvil Foundry) I do a much better job at not knocking it. I am a bit accident prone plus my hands shaking from time to time don't help matters. (I was born with electrical issues with my heart which might be tied to the hand shaking issues but I figure we all have our issues.) :-)

Have a question: I live way down in South Florida... how do you deal with the heat and the fermentation? Did you purchase a freezer to keep your fermenter inside? Thanks

@BitterRealityBrewing

2 жыл бұрын

Perfect timing on the question as I just had to repair my fermenter and even upgrade it a bit this week. So I have two fermentor systems at the moment, one is my main Ale Fermentor I built about 3 or 4 years ago which is all plywood with 2x4 and an inkbird ITC-1000F (would use an Inkbird ITC-308 nowadays (amzn.to/3uitWfG) as it would have been easier. The entire fermentor is lined completely with 2" inch rigid foam insulation and used to have 1 dorm fridge keeping the temps at 58 F or higher. (at 55F - the dorm fridge would overheat). Sadly me dorm fridge was struggling recently to get down to 68F so I replaced it with two dorm fridges this week (I bought them a few weeks ago when they were on sale for $118 each - www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Chef-2-6-cu-ft-Mini-Fridge-in-Black-ENERGY-STAR-HMBR265BE1/203532988 ). As for my other fermentor it is actually a new kegerator I got during Father's day that I haven't even mentioned on my channel or produced a video for yet - www.morebeer.com/products/komos-doublewide-kegerator-nukatap-stainless-flow-control-faucets.html#a_aid=BittterRealityBrewing If money were no object, I'd buy 2 of these just as fermentors as they can control the temperature within 1 degree and do an amazing job!!! I'm looking to brew my first lagers this weekend just because this thing can easily do lagers without an issue! If you are only doing 1 batch every once in a while and never had 2 Ales or Lagers fermenting at the same time, my personal recommendation would be to buy a deep, small chest freezer and add a collar to it if you need to. You can pick those up on major sales for about $100 or off Craig's list for close to the same. Saisons and Kveik yeast brews can handle the warmer temps. Kveik yeast will do a great clean psudo lager at room temp and major fruity IPAs at temps up to 100F without an issue.

How would you describe the boil activity on 110V? I have a Robobrew and it’s a simmer for 5 gal batches.

@BitterRealityBrewing

2 жыл бұрын

It is a nice boil using 110v in Florida which is sea level but not an aggressive boil like 240v. Overall I love the low density burners and the ability to flip to a different voltage based on availability.

Love your videos and your humble disposition. Riddle me this, have you still never had a real Pliny? If not I want to solve this problem.

@BitterRealityBrewing

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for the kind words. I'm am very passionate about great beer, learning, and helping others although I work hard at trying to be an extrovert I'm more of an introvert in nature so it feels very weird to me when I draw attention to myself which is kind of what KZread is all about and I'm not sure if I'll ever get use to that part. At the end of the day if I do a good job, help someone, or even simply entertain someone to brighten their day that makes me happy and doing it while revolving around great quality beer then that is a bonus. I do appreciate the offer but I will eventually get up to PA or hopefully a state that has it. I go to Ashville, NC usually once or twice a year but sadly not last year do to the virus. I'm not sure if Pliny is still seasonal but if it is I may just have to see if they distribute to NC or any state south of that as I've been known to drive to GA to snag some great beers and could easily do the same to NC. I've been known to have GA bottle shops order Allagash Black and then go buy out the few 4 packs they get.

@andrewbruch3993

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the thoughtful reply. You have been both, educational and entertaining and I thank you for that. Pliny the Elder is year round, its TIPA counterpart Pliny the Younger is seasonal and is sold out for the year. I will gladly send you a bottle any time, just let me know.

@coryhyatt2035

2 жыл бұрын

@@andrewbruch3993 your able to send beer? I would love to try Pliny.

Hey I just ordered this based on the Homebrew4life review. But your's is a+ thanks for the video. How long did your different stages take to warm up on 110v I will definatly have 220v available (as i already have a 220 induction burner) Just wondering if I can cut down on a 4.5 hr brewday. Thanks again

@BitterRealityBrewing

3 жыл бұрын

I actually did a test heating up from water temp about 77F to 212F but can't seem to find the actual times (Maybe I should do a video as this is a common question?) but what I can tell you is that it literally cut the times in half. According to Anvil they state it takes about a full hour at 110 to heat up 7 gallons to "Dough in temps" around 150F and about 36 minutes using 220v. I'm also guessing their water is probably colder as I'm in Florida and 77F is cold for our tap as it is Summer and mine is sitting at about 86F currently. I really do think I should do a video on times for heating so that info is out there in recorded.

I am curious what profiles you used in beersmith. I found the Anvil Foundry equipment profile but no mash profile. Is the equipment profile add on accurate, did you have to make any changes to the profile? What mash profile do you use that works for the system. I just purchased one and waiting on delivery so I want my first brew day to go as smooth as possible.

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

Beer Smith has an add-on for both size Anvil Foundry 10.5 - 110v and 220v plus one for the 6.5 version but I don't see a power choice on that one. It is funny you are asking about the mash profile as I've been playing with two mainly, the BIAB and the Temperature Mash, 1 Step. I know a lot of people including the instructions from Anvil keep telling everyone to mash in at 3 F to even 5 F degrees higher than where you are looking to end up and then you can adjust it down if needed. I disagree with this especially at 220v as the temps seem to fluctuate upwards so when i set mine for 148 F my actual temps show as high as 151 F while I am mashing in. Keep in mind I start slow but even with 16 lbs of grains it only takes me about 1.5 to 2 minutes to fully mash in and my temps never go below where I set it during the mash in. If you go higher you could miss out on the enzymes you need to help with fermentation. Also I've had good BH efficiencies in the very low 70's even with Pliny which was a big grain bill but I just did a Flydog clone that I hit 59% ...my worst ever with any brew system but I was playing around with a few variables that could have all impacted the brew. Also on the sparge water consider holding back 1.25 gallons from the total water needed for your batch. I've played around with the recommend 1 gallon and doing 1.5 gallons but my next batch will be at 1.25 for sparge. I left Grainfather for my Anvil Foundry and love its reliability. Enjoy and I would recommend for your first brew trying to keep your grainbill under the 14 lb mark to help with efficiencies.

@kcweazle

4 жыл бұрын

Bitter Reality Brewing Thank you for the detailed and fast reply. I ordered the 10.5 version. I noticed on the equipment profile by default there was no entry for “Recoverable Mash Deadspace”. I would assume that there is space under the grain insert of water that never touches the grain. Also no entry for “Mash Deadspace Loss” unless when draining to the fermenter it gets every last drop but from what I hear at least a quart is left behind after transfer. I wonder if mashing and using it like my 10 gallon cooler mashtun and sparging with the amount of water (usually 3 gallons plus) would get me the same efficiency that I am use to getting or if just holding back just over a gallon like you said would get me the same results.

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

There is more than 1 gallon under the grain basket and there is technically additional dead space per say around the outside of the grain basket. This is why with the re-circulation pump has such a major impact on the efficiencies which are a bit lower compared to my old Grainfather. The Anvil usually is in the low 70's for BH efficiencies while my Grainfather was usually in the mid to high 70's but I had so many reliability issues with the Grainfather I was happy to some efficiency for reliability.

Great video! Hey, I just received my Anvil Foundry 6.5 and want to brew this on a 3 gallon scale. Has anybody done this or can offer advice on scaling this down accurately? Thanks, Rob Waddell Virginia Beach

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

Easiest way is with BeerSmith (I personally have used to years now) and BrewFather which is gaining popularity which I also subscribe too but haven't spent much time learning. If you have a current recipe and need help scalling it I can input it in my BeerSmith and scale it down for you. Both of the apps I mentioned are cheap and extremely useful. Enjoy your new Anvil Foundry and keep in mind the Anvil seems to run a little hot be a few degrees during the mash if at 100% which someone recently recommended I should try dropping it to 85% to keep the temps in line a bit better.

@vabchml1605

4 жыл бұрын

@@BitterRealityBrewing Thanks for the tips. I'll take a look at the apps. Rob

you forgot to put your top thing on to make the water spray

@BitterRealityBrewing

4 жыл бұрын

Impressed, you are the first out of over 900 people who've seen this video to catch that. It was my first brew on the system but I did put the disc in about 2 minutes later off camera as I stopped the camera turned around and saw the metal disc and was like o'crap and quickly put it in place. If you go to 10:38 you notice it was there when I started taking things back apart to begin draining the malts. Good Catch.