The best content and knowledge for suspension design. Get the book. You'll never regret it and learn a ton from it. I did!

Love the simplicity of your videos, there just isn't enough of them👍

Great video, I'm designing a 4link rear system for my truck and this is good knowledge!!!

Sick dudes! Cant wait to get my book

I learnt something new watching that video. Cheers😊

Thanks for all of it. I hated geometry while in the school and today I use it the most

Sir please make more videos on suspensions . Your teaching way is way simple which helps us to understand .☺️☺️☺️

Nice dude. I like the illustration.

Im glad I purchased this book

great explanation! Great Video!

Very informative Thank You

Great video please keep them coming

I like mine to run square especially since I do mostly lifted trucks

Great Video!!!!! Tks

Ive built a couple 4 links. I usaly mount the bottom links right next to the top links and max out the suspension with the pinion angle 😆

Beautiful illustration. I have questions lol. I’m restoring a 1967 camaro drag car from the 80s. It’s already tubbed with a custom frame with ladder bars. I’m going tonneau running 29x15 street radials so there’s not a whole bunch of room but there’s enough i believe. However, the rear end is on sliders with leaf springs that prevents binding. What I want to do is modify what I have by using the current leaf spring frame pocket as my lower bar locator and use the custom frame with new braces up high for the top bar. Would there be any problems with mounting the lower bar closer to the tires using the leaf spring pocket and the upper bar closer to the pumpkin mounted to the custom frame...with the shock mounted in between but behind the axle? From the side it would look like this illustration but from behind the bars would be staggered with the shock sort of in the center. I was then going to run a panhard bar for lateral location of the axle. I do not want ladder bars and a track bar for the street. I’m getting rdy to drop about $600 on Viking coil overs so i want this to be safe and ride nice. On top of that, what type and size of rod ends would you recommend for a performance street car and what type and size and id/od bar would you run? I’ve seen many different styles of rod ends but not really interested in heim joints or full Johnny joints as I fell they would be too noisy for the amount of true amount of travel a street suspension will see. I kind of like the urethane bushing one’s but I don’t know if they will be too rigid and fail.

If rotation causes vibrations why not just make those two bars parallel? That would eliminate vibrations, right?

If you want drive, lower bar 20% up top 75 or 80 up... if the rear is floated pinion angle doesn't cange.

Easy top link, two easy fixes, put floating bird cages and control pinion angle with 5th arm... 2ndly shorten top link or move it down on chassis

Wouldn't ONLY parallel bars make the pumpkin not change angle? That would make a parallelogram where the edges or bars would always be parallel. Pumpkin angle would stay they same but there would no instant center because the lines never intersect. So with a 4-link there will always be pumpkin rotation because of how the instant center is created by the intersecting lines. Right?

@pedanticpublishing8881

6 жыл бұрын

Yes, exactly! A parallel link design (as viewed from the side) has no benefits to performance. And while the argument is often made that we aren't driving racecars every day, nobody will argue with the fact that free performance is always good. Also, with a properly designed system, using our instant center concept, the rotation of the pinion should be minimal enough to not cause any driveline vibrations.

Nice video. All this effort on pinion angle and yet so often (note I'm generalising) American cars are designed, or modified, to use a 4 link rear with the top arms angled inwards to also perform the sideways axle location. While this might work for straight line stuff, from a cornering point of view it is a very poor design, resulting in a very high roll centre. Straight trailing arms and a Watts or Panhard link for sideways axle location is the way to go, unless all you want to do is burnouts ... yawn. After reading more comments, I realise we are discussing long suspension travel used for vehicles like offroad trucks. In this case their CoG is so high and their cornering potential so low that the higher than optimum roll centre is not a concern. For anything at most road car high, trailing arms that are straight and additional sideways location is preferrable

Can you discussion the trohpy truck suspension Front & Raer ? Why they use 4 -link suspension type ? not Watt-link ?

@pedanticpublishing8881

6 жыл бұрын

I have lots of subjects I'd like to cover in the future, but I can answer this question pretty quickly right here. The simplicity of a triangulated 4-link is only a part of the driving factor as to why TrophyTrucks use them more often than other designs. Their ability to get huge amounts of travel is the other reason. A watts-link is an unnecessarily complicated design for something that needs to be as reliable as possible. And a triangulated 4-link, when propely designed, does a brilliant job of limiting laterall axle movement.

Use a shorter rod on top is 10l

What animation software do you use?

@pedanticpublishing8881

6 жыл бұрын

I use Adobe After Effects

Anti squat?

In order to keep the pinion angle constant, the links MUST be PARALLEL.

@ShawnKitchen

3 жыл бұрын

To my thinking, you wouldn't want a constant pinion angle. You'd want your IC somewhere near the transmission's output shaft, to keep the pinion in line with the drive shaft throughout the whole range of suspension travel. That's just my linear, unexperienced thinking. I freely admit that I'm no suspension designer.

@timhofstetter5654

3 жыл бұрын

@@ShawnKitchen I've walked all the way through all the geometry, and if the pinion angle doesn't remain constant, with the input and output shafts exactly parallel with each other, the resulting acceleration / deceleration of the joints and the drive shaft beats things up like crazy. There must always be pairs of U-joints that are in angular agreement with each other to minimize that thrashing.

@jakefriesenjake

10 ай бұрын

​@@timhofstetter5654exactly. U-joints must always have some angle to them so they don't wear out quick. I think the proper range is 1 to 3 degrees. If the transmission to driveshaft u-joint angle is let's say 2 degree pointed up (tranny pointed down and driveshaft pointed up), then you also want 2 degrees for the u-joint between the driveshaft and rear end pinion (forms a loose "Z" pattern if you look at it from the side).

this is totally wrong go do your home work

@TheRitchieLeeShow

4 жыл бұрын

White fox 🦊 can you explain?

@psk5746

4 жыл бұрын

Usually the arms are parallel or angle towards each other. The original schematic has them like nobody would install a 4 link ... ... but that is the purpose of this video, I guess