Very useful tips! Like the way that you not only show the final result but rather show us how far you went wrong until it success in the end.

Hey just wanted to say thanks for making this, I was about half way through your process when i found this finally lol. You just saved me a lotttttttt of time. Im still testing to see if i finally fixed everything but so far its looking good.

Awesome video dude. I work in web and software development but am just now getting into 3d modeling and photogrammetry as a hobby so vids like this are perfect.

Interesting result. Thanks for doing all the hard work to come up with a good end result!

In Agisoft Photscan you frist make one picture form the turntable without the object. Then you shoot all images from the object. Afterwards you create a mask by using the first image as a background. With almost no effort you can easily mask every single picture to consider only the pixels from the object.

@marcfielding2460

4 жыл бұрын

Thats an interesting point, although this seems long winded obviously the setup is done once, I have this example working with 3 cameras inside a photo tent and given the software is free I'm good with it. I need to produce models of around 18,000 items within an automated pipeline, since you've mentioned that I'm gonna take a look at Agisoft!

@ageorgiev89

10 ай бұрын

@@marcfielding2460 agisoft is not free

It is amazing how the camera customization options can change all the results, I started trying with a smartphone, it was far away of getting a reliable 3d model, that way the best result was a lot of bubbles in the model, then I changed for a homely digital camera with ISO and Focus customization and the result was a very smooth point cloud, I use a manual turn table rotating each 6 degrees and manually takes the shot in 3 different elevations , additionally I use some patterns with scale references to make a real scale model,. Some models works better with mate orange color. Regards.

It would of been great if you had a multi angle version of the 3d model at the end to show what quality is truly possible with this setup. Food for thought.

FWIW, the object should be sitting on a 'peg' (plugged into the platform) that is smaller than the base of the object. This will not only lift it off of the platform (so that the underside can be photographed, but shadows won't be as much of an issue. It is also easier to 'slice' the object free from the peg than from the platform.

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the suggestions. Will have to put some more time into this soon :-D

@KeithOlson

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D, you are most welcome. Another thing that just occurred to me comes from a tip that I came across concerning greenscreens: if an object is too close to the background, then when light reflects off of the background onto the object, it will tint the object with the colour of the background. This will be less of a problem with a white background, obviously, but it will still lighten the edge of the object, altering the texture. Does that make sense?

@ThePrrr

4 жыл бұрын

i want to share a thought with you guys. Maybe a different color for the background would help? maybe the black and white background drives off the software a bit. The first thing that jumped to my mind was in fact to use a greenscreen-ish background to make a very marked contrast between it and the model.

Amazing! Incredible videos! Thank you so much!

Absolutely fantastic video very informative thanks

Super Video. Sehr informativ. Danke 👍

That benchy looked like a perfect shipwreck with possible treasure inside!

Thanks Daniel

amazing. such a good talk through!

I've had similar results. I built a turn-table 3D Scanner with a variable vertical axis (gotta love Thingiverse!). It uses a Raspberry v2.1 camera with an enclosure (using white chloroplast) and OpenScan. I started using a grid background, then checkered. The results were less than good - if usable at all. I then painted the platforms with chalk/matte paint. Still the same bad results. The only decent mesh so far was using duct tape to hold an old tennis ball (and the base white background). It came out great! Even the random puff balls were rendered. Nothing else I've scanned has worked. I'm sure much of it is the PI camera. It's such a learning curve. I'm using 3x vertical axis positions with 60 frames per setting. Thanks for the video, you gave me some information for some new ideas to try. Cheers!

You can use the turntable to your advantage so you don't lose camera positions. There are two ways to think about this...get rid of the background by making it featureless or for difficult to handle objects, add features on the turntable so it helps the reconstruction.

yeah, everyone has the turntable idea when first using photogrammetry. however, when you study how these systems work you find that they require consistent lighting on the object and tend to benefit greatly from mapping the environment. that's why most require you to arc the camera around and not rotate the object.

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

That's exactly the point. And most of us made the mistake to hide the turntable whereas it actually is necessary to have a lot of reference points that move compared to the unicolor Background

Subbed and really enjoying the Anet A8 upgrade series.

Thank you! Awesome tips! I'm going to try green screen on turntable and background then after removing insert flat solid color background and see. If no luck, I will try psychedelic turntable cover like you did. Thanks again, I really appreciate the documentation of this. I've been doing trial and error myself, and it's a lot of work!

I've had really good results with taking video instead of pictures and rendering the video into individual frames. From there you can go through them and delete the ones that are blurry and so with pretty minimal effort you've got yourself a large data sample which meshroom really likes :)

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

Good one to try out! I'm looking into this as well.

@janmaker227

Жыл бұрын

Really depends on your camera. Photos will allways be of a lot better quality BUT if you camera has a very good video function it might be a an alternative way. My canon 6D mk2 video function is a joke compared to the photo quality.

Many thanks for sharing - great video!

Very helpful video, thank you! I want to try this with my high aperture macro lens to digitize tiny objects so the info is appreciated

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

DId you get some good results yet? I am eager to try out some other programs soon to see the differences in results.

@make.anything

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D I haven't yet, I got a bit discouraged seeing people have done it with microscopes and focus stacking which will be hard to beat. I do still want to try when I find the time!

@StevenSSmith

4 жыл бұрын

How small you talking? 20mm, or 2mm and smaller like an ant? I would like to help

@StevenSSmith

4 жыл бұрын

Both of y'all are welcome to take the info from my latest video on my channel and polish up the info contained in it. I made it in a hurry, so the production quality is some what low. I'll link it in a separate comment in case it gets caught in the KZread spam filter. this work flow works for meshroom too its just slower is why i didn't demonstrate it here.

@StevenSSmith

4 жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/lpausZqKn9fWYJs.html

Thank you very much. This is immensely helpful, as I think I am going crazy about trying to make the scanning background invisible. I will try a similar pattern.

Very cool topic 💝

Thank you, good video

Great job

Thank you so much. Random pattern design is brilliant!

@Crosslink3D

3 ай бұрын

You are so welcome!

Very nice work, that clarify so much for us!

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.

@lmoraisvieira

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D I am trying to make 3D faces with photogrammetry but when people send me the pictures, the programs that I use: Meshroom, Regard3D and Zephyr, can not make the 3d picture, appears a lot of errors. I´ve asked to take a 360º pictures with a good ilumination but I doesn´t work anyway. Do you have any idea? Thank you! Luis

Can you send a link the the patterned base 👍

Awesome. I can now take a scan of my benchy and 3d print it.

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

😂 That's actually the best use case I can imagine, hahaha

This is a genius idea

Thank you very much

thanks for your workflow - am trying for the first time. I'm just gonna print a black and white page with each letter of the alphabet in big font for the turntable thanks!

You are amazing！ very helpful video !! Thank you

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

You are welcome!

Awesome Work Sir 💪👌

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.

2:23 I had the same problem and I cropped the background. works fine!

Awesome video. I can't tell you how many times I tried messing with settings to figure this out. Then when googling the problem only finding abstract coding solutions and editing camera sensor data files, etc. Such a waste of time. The camera just needs to fix it's location with a turntable the results are great! Thank you so much :)

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

Great to hear!

Coming late to the party, but I've had some success with CCTags. They're a type of tracking marker that Meshroom supports. They're rotationally invariant and work well at oblique angles. I have four markers printed on regular printer paper at known positions. Then in Meshroom you just tell it the positions of the markers and it does a better job at position estimation, as well as providing orientation and scale information.

@Crosslink3D

9 ай бұрын

Great insights! I’ll give it a try!

Very interesting

Excellent! thank you very much.

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.

if you add a light, like a LED chain, on the table, that will just gets scanned as well, and you can remove that, in editing software later - - with correct shadows, every detail should be correct, or so - -

Appreciate your work Daniel. That reminds me of my beginnings in photogrammetry back then in 2013. I've been struggling a lot untill finally figured out how to do it properly. Unortunatelly there is a lot of misleading information in your video. If you want to make a video update on this feel free to contact me. I would be happy to help you. So you can spread the knowledge.

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Sounds like a great idea. Let's talk about some of your ideas. Can you contact me directly via eMail? daniel@crosslink.io.

The other problem you will have here is shadows. The model needs to be lit evenly on all sides because the shadow changes as the model moves around. This confuses the software. So put it in a nice lightbox that lights the model from all sides and gets rid of the shadows.

Have you tried a multi colored grid with basically four distinct sections? Or you could go even further and make a what amounts to a compass with cardinal points all varying in color. The point being you can align you object up perfectly and also have a perfect grid that maybe the software will be able to use better.

You so should turn the scans into an STL and print it again, and then rescan that and see how many times until it is no longer recognisable as a Benchy.

@secret-name

3 жыл бұрын

Like when you photocopy a photocopy. Dude the handouts they used to give us in school were really bad because they would never copy from the source material.

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome idea!

The scanned Benchy is perfect for Halloween.

Thank you so much for this. I just ordered a light box and I have a turntable that is for a spice rack and it has a raised grid pattern. I'm going to use your method and put some design on the turntable. I didn't realize anything under 300 pictures is a low data set. That's a lot.

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

You are so welcome!

Awesome 👍 thanks!

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

You bet!

my turntable design has some markers, but nowhere near as many features as yours. excited to see whether this will improve results

I am curious to know if a motorized turntable would be good for a bigger object like that of a G I Joe Skystriker, or a Cobra Rattler.

you need to add the lights to the turn-table, when it moves the shadow isn't fixed - - mount lights on the turn-table and, make the room dark and, if possible, to the colored image, the black and, white pattern and, give it colors, as well and, more precise shapes, like triangles, square, things with sharp edges - -

@BrianScotland

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for sharing

@jonathanberry9502

3 жыл бұрын

Totally correct! The light needs to be stable relative to the object.

@izoyt

3 жыл бұрын

so, if i understood correctly, lights should rotate with objects?

nice video !!! i try to record a video of the part you what to scan and then extract the frames is much more faster and you will get a lot of images to work whit

finally some 1 who wants to do it this way.

Daniel - a very Kool Video chap, very helpful. Where did you get that plate cover from ? Many thanks captain 3D

My experience with Agisoft has shown that all the hassle can be skipped simply by just moving the camera instead. It allows for a higher quality model too.

this is such a better solution that kinect!

Guten tag, great video! Where did you get the random background?

Hello, great video. I wanted to ask you... when you used the table with pattern, is it still a must to have a plain black background? Will software manage it with something in the background? Thanks👍

Meshroom requires movement in the background to work out the telemetry.

My man- You're a geneus

thankyou

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

i thought about putting a camera on a track and having the camera move around a object , but i might try this first now as it seems like this would use up less space

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Great to read you liked it! If you have ideas for other topics I should cover, just ask me to make a video about it.

@Sonnymonster

4 жыл бұрын

best to keep the camera in the same position. this way the lighting stays consistent.

Hi You can try fixing the tripod with camera on the turntable itself then I think there will be no need for black background.

The random background for the turntable was a great idea! I'd always heard that turntables didn't work for photogrammetry, clearly that's incorrect.

@Crosslink3D

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Great job! Where can we find the pattern at 08:00?

What if you used vanta black as background and for the turntable

Hello just subbed. I noticed the images of the model boat are crisp and clear. Is this effect primarily down to the lens? I have purchased a Sigma 105mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro Lens which hasn't as clear images from a turntable. There is detail lost when the object is no longer facing straight parallel to the camera lens any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Could this work for dental impressions to then make grillz on a 3d program or isn’t it precise enough to fit on the teeth afterwards?

I wonder what graph paper on the turntable would do- if it works, you have a built-in size reference. And putting a dowel in the (upside-down) smokestack would get Benchy up high enough for comprehensive photographs, wouldn't it?

@mephistopheles5173

4 жыл бұрын

I use a dowel for holding up certain parts and it works a treat

When you make a 3d model like this does this software make it into an stl or what software do you use to make an stl.

Newbie here. First what a awesome informative video. I have been racking my brain trying to figure out what is wrong with my pictures of a white car body. I tried the turnable method and then I went to outside and walked around with my phone. Been getting nothing to really poor looking meshs. I now have a direction to go. A ? I have. Should I paint the body grey? Since my turntable is manually turned should I be taking more pictures? My last attempt finished with not errors but I got no image in meshroom. Only the camera cloud with gaps like you were getting. Thanks again for the great channel. Had to subscribe and two thumbs up👍👍

I am just beginning to try this technique. I have an old figurine that is somewhat shinny and I need to dull that. My question is: How did you trigger your camera when the turn table was rotating. It looked like the meshroom display had very evenly space trigger points. Did the turn table rotate in a stepped fashion and send a trigger to the camera?

Great video: got a question I have a really cheap turntable. Right now I am experimenting with a plate i made from Lego with features. The turntable is battery powered and I actually try to just shot continuously a whole rotation. I figured that out BUT I am not sure I can get a fast shutter. To my question. Can a lot of low aperture photos offset the short focus area? Any thoughts on it?

I just found this video.. would it help if you put dots onto the turntable for the program to reference from say one every 3cm or so.. in various rows much like you did with the black n white pattern. Also, I think if you raised the item above the platform it would help with getting the bottom of the item better, something like a small dowel with blutack on the top to hold the item and can be used for any item at a later date, which can then be cropped out in the editing process.

Hi question, I tried with a still camera and a turntable I took 75 photos in a higher position and over 75 in a lower position. In meshroom the cameras are fixed and do not rotate around the object. Do I need to change anything in the software? I used ready-made confiuration.

Have you tried this with a DSLR? and if so does it get better results? I would assume so given DSLR's can capture a lot more detail than a phone camera.

What software do you use to control your camera?

waht is the best photogrammetry software. I am not worry about paid software. please tell me.

How did you crop all the images?

That boat looked like a shark on the first try with the pattern

Thanks for the video. Trying it now as we speak. Did you change any settings in Meshroom or leave every setting as default ?

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

For those demos, I left everything on default.

A polarizing filter could help on the camera.

2 years late... But try f11 up to f22 when taking images. You will need more light but will remove out of focus areas. If parts are out of focus there are no details for the software to pickup on in those areas

you can use newspaper for table and background

Have you considered a green screen approach to using a turntable? I believe there is free software out there for editing green screen photos.

Wouldn't it be better for the software if the object was stationary and you moved the camera around it in order to prevent lighting on the object from changing?

A9 II at 30 FPS JPG would be the best way to scan fast.

Nice video, but music at the end almost blew my speakers... Would be nice if it wasn't that loud!

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry about that

Try using the turntable to turn the camera around the object instead of moving the object itself. Then instead of wasting detail trying to emulate camera movement, you can instead spend your efforts making the reference background ideal? Just a thought.

The software uses the static background to calculate the locations of the shots. I use a similar non-repeating pattern with four distinct quadrants.. Don't use something like a checkerboard, it creates the same problem. There is a 2-part video here kzread.info/dash/bejne/q5lhpY-If6nZiJs.html that talks about the do and donts of photogrammetry. He discusses the background and lighting issues you had. Cheers.

Where did you get the random pattern?

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

You can create it with any paint software that has some filters: physicscomputingblog.com/tag/random-noise/

@lehnerviktor

3 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D Hello this link is broken, could you please suggest whre can i get a pattern like yours ?

@TheJunglebloke

3 жыл бұрын

@@lehnerviktor I know I'm 8 months late but the broken link above mentioned a program called 'imagej' - I was able to install on my manjaro linux sytem but any arch or debian (maybe Windows also) should have. It had 4 steps - 1. Ctrl-N for new image (should give a black canvas if chosen by default). 2. Add noise using Process->Noise->Add Noise 3. Next Step is to increase size of noise using Process->FFT->Bandpass Filter...I chose down to 100 pixels and up to 30 pixels in the form. 4. To get desired image, use Process->Binary->Make Binary

This is an automated setup and I also used a random turntable www.thingiverse.com/make:643603

Make a donut shaped turn table with the camera on the donut. the subject where the donut hole is on a stand. Just a idea.

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

I think that actually exists on Thingiverse...

@TerryMartinART

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D Seeing your macro scan got me busy, and was able to use my marble turntable I decorate cakes on with a white sheet in the background stretched tight. I had to manually turn the turntable, but keeping all that white in the background it worked perfectly ! no gaps in camera spacing. Thanks for video !

Why not just record it in 4k and somehow export all the frames. Would that work?

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

It depends on aperture, ISO and shutter speed settings how sharp the individual frames would be. Motion blur is also something to consider. You need a high Fstop like 11+ to make the object in focus for all the depth it has. This could lead to very high ISO settings for video shooting. I had to go to 1/5 of a second to keep the ISO and sensor noise low to make these fotos. Filming is usually done at 1/50 of a second. For less motion blur you would need something like 1/100 or 1/200 of a second at much higher ISO then. But I can give it a try...

@theultimateninja

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D I dont have a fancy camera but i do have a gopro. It has a linear mode where it doesn't really have the fish eye view and it can get up to 120fps. I also have a mini turn table thing. It turns pretty slow too.

@jasonhancox1622

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D more light = lower iso

what's the name of that spray?

@Crosslink3D

3 жыл бұрын

Chalk spray. It’s also used to mark the soccer fields

@luisgomez385

3 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D Thank you. I'll look for it and try it out.

I'm moderately experienced with 3d printing, but I'm a total beginner when it comes to 3d scanning. I would think the most accurate 'scanning' method would be a sort of 'removal of volume' that uses lasers to measure the distance to the surface of the object as it rotates and then digitally 'sculpt' a 3d model. I would think this would be far more accurate and reliable than merely stitching together an assumed 3d model based purely on a data set of 2d images. Does anyone know if this method exists and does it produce a superior result?

@martinkotze7258

Жыл бұрын

Sorry I'm late to this conversation, you certainly get 3d scanners like that (I attended a demo at the mine) but they would be very expensive.

@mutantbob

Жыл бұрын

I think that is called Structured Light Scanning.

the problem with this metod is that you can´t take details from below because then you dont have any reference on the surroundings

try Regard3D

problem solved !

Can you please help me my ender 3 is not resuming prints after power loss or if I pause them

@Crosslink3D

4 жыл бұрын

It does not work for me either. That feature is basically a joke. I don't understand how the manufacturer can claim that it will resume prints.

@amritafagna130

4 жыл бұрын

@@Crosslink3D so can I make my ender 3 resumeable by some upgradation can you please explain it's a humble request to you and at last Thank you very much for the reply.