Thanks for sharing! I loved the horsetails 👍 Shame about that lift, maybe the grain size was larger than usual?

@TarheelPyroChannel

10 ай бұрын

I think we determined that the lift powder had gotten some moisture in it.

Great job, it's awesome that you show us your wins and fails. This is tge best way for all of us to help improve this artwork.

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

I can wholeheartedly recommend using reusable silica gel desiccant of the orange kind. Starts out orange and as it absorbs moisture it starts to turn a dark color, once saturated you can pop them in the microwave, oven or place out in the sun on a hot sunny day to dry the gel out again. You could place a mesh bag of the stuff in the box together with the shells when taking out to the field. Or make pouches out of coffee filters to fill with silica gel so you can place the pouches together with the chemicals inside their storage containers. Helps to keep everything bone dry.

Great job keep up the good work🔥😎

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Sir plz can you tell me the moving linke bees star formula

what are you using for lift comp.???

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

2FA BP

@oldmanpatriot1490

Жыл бұрын

@@TarheelPyroChannel hot?

can you make a video how to do this shell sir

Do you need any kind of license to compete?

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Only to buy certain items in constructing them and transporting if you don’t build on-site. You can request to use the PGI license for transporting. Of course you need to be a member of the PGI and pay to get into the conference.

Their always next year 👏🏻 great job all around tho👍🏻

Great job, the effects were beautiful

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

The birds and bees shell at 12:20 was beautiful

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!

6oz. for a 6" and .5oz. for each inch after that. Did you plastic bag the lift? 18

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, I’ll see how that works against the weights. I did not bag the lift on the shells. I really think the powder was already compromised though. I’ll probably bag it on future ones.

@3ccdmike

Жыл бұрын

@@TarheelPyroChannel If I remember it is rule of thumb for China shells. I only made one 6" ball and it worked well. After that I made Italians.

Win, lose or draw, It's all fun and I'm sure the PGI experience is worth it!

👍

That is a cool hobby

try using sgrs as the binder instead of dextrin, use the same %. It does not get soft or crumble from high humidity. Your bp granule mesh size should match your shell, one size does not fit all. Before you put lift on shells or comets take a big scoop of your bp and stick it in a gallon ziplock bag, seal it then set it in full sun for 20 minutes, if it has moisture it will condensate on the inside of bag. If you need better quality charcoal I offer it to fellow pyro's by the pound on a couple forums, I can tell you where to contact me outside of youtube if you think its part of your problem.

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, I appreciate it. I was using commercial BP. I was able to get a deal on a bunch of GOEX a few years ago. I will test some of it in a baggy. Tell me more about shell size vs granule size.

@jasoncook5307

Жыл бұрын

@@TarheelPyroChannel ​ @Tarheel Pyro "roughly" 3" and under -6+10 mesh, sub 2" and comets -10+14 or even finer, 4" and larger -4+6 or coated rice hulls. commercial bp is slower/weaker than home made riced or corned bp using the proper species of wood /charcoal that the 10% figure applies to. If using commercial its a higher percent, can't remember exactly but you should be inert shell testing your lift for flight times to verify lift height vs lift used. Horsetails (yours broke perfectly, thats hard to get right) are supposed to be lifted higher than a regular shell, so are longer burning mixes that are fuel heavy or contain metal particles too large to be considered as fuel in the comp(roughly anything larger than 150 mesh). examples include most glitters, tiger tail, willow, metal containing willows white/gold, nishiki kamuro etc so the remaining sparkles or stars burn out 80+ feet above the audience. There are two opinions on rising tails, opinion 1 it burns out right at apogee leaving the sky dark for the shell, typically its if the tail is different from the shell, opinion 2 is let it burn to the point of the shell break, but your time fuse timing better be spot on or this will expose your time fuse flaws. A single shot comet should expire at the point of apogee or directly after. That being said your stars and comets all looked really nice, the ones that fully lifted seemed to all extinguish at the same time, good vivid colors and good ignition. Your horsetails and metal fueled willows all looked beautiful. The only change I would suggest is to not use the coarser metals in your rising tails so your not left with floating debris after the shell, It takes away from the display your trying to make stick in the audiences mind. Charcoal based rising tails like c6 or c8 or even willow when the shell breaks it blends into the burst so it disappears into it perfectly or a color from the same color series as used in the shell thats the same brightness, bushy metal streamers but if bright they should extinguish well before the shell opens so the eye can adjust(you did that well).I would suggest to make your own bp, get 15-20+lbs of the correct charcoal so your bp is very consistent to your testing long term, you make the sizes of grains and sort it for use across multiple sizes of shells and comets in your burst and lift. Use the commercial bp as lift and burst in the larger shells 6"+ that need a slower bp. Hope this helps

@jasoncook5307

Жыл бұрын

@@TarheelPyroChannel After bag testing bp for moisture, after weighing your lift try it in a plastic baggie sealing it using plastic tape around the leader pipett so its sealed, waxed lift cups double taped with 1/2 overlap also act as a moisture barrier. I have read many many complaints of wet guns at events after they have been fired from a few times due to the bp lift burning. Also if it has rained and the guns are buried water can creep into them from the ground. Some have resorted to plastic bagging the whole shell at these events, bringing their own guns or inspecting the ones they plan to use.

@Tarheel_Pyro

Жыл бұрын

@@jasoncook5307 thanks for taking the time to reply to this. I started out making my own BP but couldn’t get enough lift. Turns out I didn’t use air float charcoal! Took me a while to figure that one out. I have a friend that makes his own charcoal so I’ll get with him when I decide to get back into that. I been concentrating on my stars and effects. I was really pleased with my horsetails. The shell had plain rice hulls in one complete half, and I only had four wraps of tape on it so as not to break hard. Also put less wraps on my willows to keep the stars from going out as far.

@jasoncook5307

Жыл бұрын

@@Tarheel_Pyro You need to invest $$ in a real ball mill with lead media, the charcoal used is made from a specific species of tree, usually whats found in your area if your making it. You can't just use any old wood or commercial charcoal to make fast bp. In the us it is typically black willow, red alder, or eastern red cedar and sometimes paulownia tho that is what the japanese use . I have a ebay listing but I offer eastern red cedar charcoal I harvest and cook myself in bulk to the community on a certain forum so folks can spend more time building instead of cooking charcoal :) Your serpents shell needed a different wrap pattern to spread them uniformly, I think your second willow shell deformed during the launch. If you want a weaker break but a stronger shell with more layers try coating rice hulls with bp, using larger granules or mixing in polverone for your burst. Bp is the heart of everything from lift to burst to even the prime.

Well done

@TarheelPyroChannel

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!