Pants Fitting: Using Grainlines to Fine Tune the Fit

Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль

This week on Fit Tip Tuesday, I'm sharing some of the work I'm doing with one of my Pants Fitting Students. If you take the time to draw accurate grainlines on your fit muslin, you can use them to figure out what needs to be adjusted. First we'll check out the vertical grainline on the back leg. In this case, it's too close to the CB seam at the waistline. I'll show you why this can happen and how to fix it. Then we'll turn our attention to the horizontal guidelines. From the side view, you will you use these grainlines to see if the front and back legs are in agreement lengthwise. In this example, there is too much vertical length on the back leg. See how to fix it without affecting the vertical grainline.
00:00 Introduction
00:29 Photo of a vertical grainline that's too close to the CB seam
00:58 Look at the side view to see if your grainline is too close to CB seam
01:40 Fit adjustments that can push the grainline closer to CB seam
05:34 How to shift the top of the vertical grainline away from CB seam
09:06 How the horizontal guidelines can show you the back leg is too long
10:33 How to straighten horizontal guideline across full hip at CB
12:24 How to lower crotch curve without affecting the vertical grainline
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Пікірлер: 51

  • @anna-sq3jw
    @anna-sq3jw11 ай бұрын

    This is amazing! Thank you 👌

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    11 ай бұрын

    So happy this helps you! thank you for fitting along with me

  • @tlbun9865
    @tlbun98652 жыл бұрын

    This is such an amazing and useful video! I won't have to make this particular adjustment but I can see how I can apply it in reverse! Thank you so very much!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much… & thank you for watching!

  • @joannfagen4457
    @joannfagen44572 жыл бұрын

    Excellent and clear explanations.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!

  • @ttheaaliccat
    @ttheaaliccat2 жыл бұрын

    You have a wonderfully calm voice :-) I signed up for your class last year thru Pattern Review, but have been to timid to attempt it. This tutorial has inspired me to sign into your class in the New Year and get to work! Thank you, Alberta

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much! And yay, you can do it!! I’ll be there to help!

  • @paulaperedocordeiro2545
    @paulaperedocordeiro2545 Жыл бұрын

    just great! Thank you very much!!!!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    Glad you liked it!

  • @margemitchell6839
    @margemitchell68392 жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much Jennifer for the help with my pattern! I think I will try to make all the changes (original and now these) we have talked about in paper and then make a new muslin.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    :) Keep me posted! Thank you for letting me share your progress.

  • @jgsawka
    @jgsawka2 жыл бұрын

    This is brilliant! I'm going to give this a try. I've got bagginess under my butt of my muslin. Hope this works!!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much, keep me posted if you have questions!

  • @daraharper2003
    @daraharper20032 жыл бұрын

    Thank you SO much! My figure looks the SAME way in pants. I will watch this again and again to adjust my muslin. Thank you again!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Glad it was helpful! Keep me posted if you have more questions...Thanks for watching!

  • @heatherspeedy1325
    @heatherspeedy13252 жыл бұрын

    I’m now super lost! So many adjustments. I like to Upcycle ♻️ old 👖 to new ones. I’ve been honing in on my skills and watching your videos trying to make the perfect fitting jeans.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Fitting jeans is hard! The best advice I can give you is to take it step by step. Drawing accurate grainlines will help you see where you need to add or remove fabric. Keep in mind that every adjustment you make affects other parts of the muslin. Keep me posted if you have specific questions! Thanks for fitting along with me

  • @1wholovestrees
    @1wholovestrees Жыл бұрын

    This is timely as just last week I had this very problem. I’m anxious to see how it turns out now.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    Happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me

  • @elisabettacamiciottoli6228
    @elisabettacamiciottoli62282 жыл бұрын

    GREAT idea the one of using grainline and Balance line to fit pants! Your knowledge is so helpful for me, Jane. In Italy I find no one who is able to teach about fitting, did you know?

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much!! It tickles my heart to know that someone in Italy is watching my video tutorials! I’m I’m so happy you found me… please keep me posted if you have specific fitting questions… I’ll help you from here in Connecticut, USA

  • @sofialaurinen7598
    @sofialaurinen75982 жыл бұрын

    Thanks. Great!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    You're welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me!

  • @marneyb2256
    @marneyb22562 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for this. It is the first very clear explanation of fixing this problem. I may be one of those who may need the angle to be close to the centre back. but I keep thinking that a 35 inch waist and a 45 inch hip cannot be that unusual. Pants that I have made this way have looked good (although I also have to make a large thigh or knockkneed adjustment to make the legs hang properly). I keep thinking there must be a way to straighten the grainline and perhaps not need the number of adjustments to the back and legs of pants that I have to do. I am going to try your suggestions on my next muslin and see what results. Thanks!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    If the vertical grainline is close to your CB seam and they are hanging properly, you may be right… & you don’t need to fix it!

  • @janerusch6273
    @janerusch6273 Жыл бұрын

    Hi Fantastic video. Thank you so much. I think (hope) it might be the answer to my pants fitting woes. I've already made a flat butt adjustment (Anne Rowley's adjustment). to the pattern I'd like to improve, which helped. However, would it be better to start again from scratch - without the fba - and use your ideas first? Hope I've explained this clearly enough!!

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you :) I'm not familiar with Anne's flat butt adjustment ...I'm guessing if you need a flat butt adjustment you don't need an fba (Full Butt Adjustment)?? Is that what you're asking?

  • @canansaritas
    @canansaritas2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the clear explanations and solutions. It is very helpful to understand why a fitting issue occurs. I'm sewing a winter coat and just came across a problem with the sleeves. They turn inwards and create a gaping in the upper front arm area. This is a one piece sleeve pattern and I've paid attention to straight grain line. Could you please advise what else would cause this problem?

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Can you email me pics of how your sleeve looks so I can see what’s going on? (Jsterndesigns37@gmail.com )

  • @canansaritas

    @canansaritas

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@JSternDesigns Thank you 🙏

  • @user-kc3su6lh3u

    @user-kc3su6lh3u

    11 ай бұрын

    Добрый день! Очень интересно👍. Но ! Очень жаль, нет русского языка 😏

  • @GyvMeBody
    @GyvMeBody Жыл бұрын

    This was very helpful. I'm having a similar issue. I'd love to pick your brain. I have photos. Please let me know how to send them to you.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    :) Thanks! You can send me photos to jsterndesigns37@gmail.com... and I'll take a look! :)

  • @bethover4hu544
    @bethover4hu5442 жыл бұрын

    Where should the grainline be on the pattern piece? On the back pattern piece, does the grainline divide the hem in half?

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes, establish your grainline from the center of the hem... then go straight up from there!

  • @bethover4hu544
    @bethover4hu5442 жыл бұрын

    How do I determine the slope of the straight part of the back curve that best fits my shape?

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    I think the best way to figure that out is to see if your pant muslin is sliding down when you sit... If it is, you need more curved part, if it doesn't & the rise is not correct, lengthen or shorten the top of the straight part at the waistline. You can also add more to the crotch wedges if you need more room for your inner thigh (which will contribute more to the curved parts)

  • @bethover4hu544

    @bethover4hu544

    10 ай бұрын

    What body shape works best in pants where the straight part of the back crotch curve is more slanted, say 30-45 degrees?

  • @user-ge9zo3gq6y
    @user-ge9zo3gq6y Жыл бұрын

    У вас так интересно. Жалко что нет перевода.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    Я так сожалею об этом... Я единственная женская группа, и у меня есть это в моем списке, чтобы разобраться! спасибо за просмотр моего видео

  • @janerusch6273
    @janerusch6273 Жыл бұрын

    Hi Re my message below. The FBA was made as the pants collapse under my butt. The issue now is diagonal dragline sfrom knee to hip.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    Have you seen my new series of videos that outline the Top Down Center Out Pants Fitting Method? You may be able to fit your pants easier working with a stable non-stretch waistband that's separate from a one leg muslin. I'm having really good results with it! Here's a link to the playlist kzread.info/head/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK

  • @mariontilton8494
    @mariontilton84942 жыл бұрын

    Are your classes online and if so how do I join?

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    If you check the links below the comments, you’ll find my classes on Patternreview.com & my private zoom fitting classes. I will also be updating my teaching schedule starting in January:)

  • @kayphuff
    @kayphuff2 жыл бұрын

    I do believe she has a forward tilting pelvis.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    2 жыл бұрын

    :) Yes she does!

  • @roxannlegg750
    @roxannlegg750 Жыл бұрын

    OMG woman...where have you been all my life. Can I marry you??? Oh course my brain is now going - "well DUH!!" with my own pants problems. KMN.

  • @JSternDesigns

    @JSternDesigns

    Жыл бұрын

    :) So happy you found my channel!! Welcome & Thanks for fitting along with me

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