Great content - thanks! Don’t call yourself a rookie; this content is very helpful and I’ve looked at lots of videos from ‘pros’. It pulls together Fuji HVLP and 3M PPS in one very helpful video.

Very helpful! Can't wait to see how the kitchen turned out!!!

Really excellent review of your systems, it's details, and some explanation of why you chose what you did. Thanks for helping me on my HVLP journey 🙂

This is fantastic content -- incredibly helpful. Thanks for doing what you do!

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Enjoyed the educational video! Learned much more than I anticipated.

Just upgraded from an earlex 5500 to this mini mite 5. So glad I watched this. Love the 3M cup and I’m definitely going to order a remote start! Great idea!

Thanks for the heads up on the PPS system from 3M... great idea!

@turninground3511

3 жыл бұрын

Well I'm glad you are open to suggestions. Just use it like you were applying it to your body. Create a film over the surface of the gun and handle. Do the cap and nozzle. Don't block the air holes. Cleanup will be easier. I clean with a double sided kitchen sponge. You still need your gun brushes for the cap, tip and fluid delivery parts. But the rest just became much easier.

GREAT video! SOOOOO helpful. Thank you.

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

At first, I was searching for that FUJI systainer then learned that you actually made it yourself. It looks AWESOME. I use systainers for everything. This is a great solution!

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Yup, can't help myself I am a sucker for nice tool storage :) I used a TANOS navy blue systainer and a white FUJI (bicycle) decal. Thanks!

@davidguth5260

2 жыл бұрын

@@postbeam8200 Do you know which size? M337, M437?

3:10 😂 I know that phrase brother! You aren’t alone!

I've been shooting HVLP for twenty plus years now. I have a competitors gun but have been interested in the Fuji system for a nephew. I have a time saving tip I learned from a pro many years ago. You will laugh but you will reap the reward if you just give it a try. One of the very finest lubricants on the market that water will not bother is ........wait for it Chap stick. So you have complained that cleaning the outside of your gun is a pain right. And as a presenter having a paint soaked gun distracted me from taking you seriously at first. So if you use a bit of chap stick on the body of your gun the paint will not adhere to it. It will wipe right off and make cleaning a breeze. Also if you use it on the needle barrel you will prolong it's life at the contact area before the trigger. Applying it on your cap will keep it clean and make shooting easier. My gun still looks new after twenty years of use. And wait for it. It smells pretty good too. I swear to all of you this is serious. It's a great lubricant and it's not water soluable. Give it a try.

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

That is a great idea, I will give the chapstick idea a try. When I first got the gun I cleaned the outside religiously but after spending 30 min each time I just gave up and cleaned the inside only. I will clean the outside one more time and give the chapstick idea a shot. Thanks!

Great info. Thanks!

Quality content. Fuji can produce a great finish. And the PPS 2.0 is a godsend. Fuji whip hose is a POS. I didn't even get through my first set of cabinets before mine broke.

I am a newbie to the Fuji system and painting cabinets. I used SW Extreme for a primer and their Emerald Urethane Hybrid for the topcoat. First mistake is using the 1.3 tip that came with the gun. He's right to use the 1.5. I had to get this job done with the 1.3, however. From my spraying experience with standard air compressor guns I knew how to gloss out paint onto the surface to compensate somewhat for orange peel. But as he said, it was difficult not to get runs, especially with the Emerald. However, I will say that the Extreme primer dries very hard but is easy to sand. It withstands aggressive sanding with 220 paper without burning through the edges. This makes it great when you need a thicker coat for some reason, because you know that it will sand out beautifully. The Emerald is a learning curve, and with a 1.3 tip it seems very difficult to get that fine spray without thinning the paint down too much. I'm certain the 1.5 tip will take care of that problem. But it levels so well that runs I touched up with a brush that left brush marks were barely distinguishable from the sprayed finish. At least least well enough to pass for the people who owned the house that were flipping it so resell. It really save my rear. One thing that I found very difficult was to position light where I could see my spray pattern to put on a wet coat that was not going to run. I was shooting blind a lot that did not help. I had to go more on feel. Anyway, that's my two cents worth.

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for that! Yeah I only use the 1.5 it sprays very evenly and fast enough to keep the surface wet. I will do a video on my "paint booth" in the basement when I get started again. I use a bank of 4 florescent lights an 2 more LED lights because as you did lighting is critical to see flaws and flow. Also I always try an spray flat on a homemade turn table made out of a lazy-suzan onto of some saw horses. Spraying flat is always easier and you can get the top coat wetter with less runs and better flow. Honestly the Benjamin Moore Advance is AMAZING! It will flow and fix many of my mistakes from not getting on a smooth finish. And after a few years it has held up perfectly, easy to wipe and keep clean. Great tools (Fuji, Styx and B-M Advance) make the job way easier and the results much better. Happy Spraying!

Thanks for the note.

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

You bet!

Thanks. I purchased the same sprayer to paint the kitchen cabinets I'm making for my son and his wife. (also shaker style) A bit nerve racking while going through the learning process. At first i was afraid to thin down BM Advance to the guns specs but when I did I had virtually zero orange peel. Even when I sprayed it thicker, it still seemed to settle and lay down flat. I have a long way to go, but so far, so good. Nice to hear someone is going through the same process.

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Glad to help! Painting isn't really as hard as people think, it's just that last finish coat that is kinda stressful. Its not so much that if you mess it up the final coat your finished... its more the opposite that if you mess up the final coat now you have to sand it and do the final coat again... I am almost at the point of doing a BUNCH of painting and I will post a few more videos showing the process I use, but I am not a professional painter either, but I figure I can help others a little. Good luck!

Omg we were so close. I have been on the struggle with BM Advance. I first tried to brush/roll it on, that was a fail so I sanded down my two 7' doors and moved onto spraying. I have a Fuji MM 3, so one stage less than yours. I have a few questions you were very close to answering. 1) What viscosity did you thin the advance down to? How many seconds in the Ford cup? 2) Gun setup, did you start from wide open and bring the paint flow down to get a good fan or start at zero and work up? 3) What tip/aircap size? 4) What size systainer is that? My problem is I have a slight orange peel thing going on. I thinned to about 55 seconds in #4 Ford cup, which was way more than 10% water. I had no Floetrol so it was all water, it sprayed okay with a 1.8mm tip but Im afraid that the added water evaporated too fast so the paint didn't level enough and/or not enough solids were deposited so it peeled a bit. Hoping you can remember what you did, I have been searching everywhere for specific info on Fuji + Advance spray settings. Either way, great video 👍

Great video. Thank you for the in depth breakdown and explanation of everything. Quick question, the gun you purchased. Is it the gravity fed gun and you just replace the gravity feed cup with the PPS system from 3M? Thanks again. Look forward to your videos of painting with this sprayer

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Good question. This gun came with my Fuji Mini-Mite 4 system. I had two options, I could buy: A top feed "gravity" type gun or a bottom feed "pressure" type gun. I chose the top feed because it is simpler and I knew I was going to add on the 3M PPS system from day 1. While the original gun will not paint upside-down and relays on gravity for the most part this type of Fuji gun does incorporate a bleed air tube that connects to the top of the original hopper to pressurize it and help push the paint down and into the fluid passage. The real reason I prefer the top feed "gravity" style gun is because it keeps the pressure cup (paint reservoir) out if the way and at a slight backward angle while spraying, with the bottom feed system it is hanging straight down below the gun and always seems to bump into stuff as I spray, at least from my experience. Hope that helps.

@ILruffian

Жыл бұрын

Spot on. I have the Fuji Q5 and I own both gravity and bottom feed guns. The ergos on gravity are much better. As you note, the reservoir is less likely to hit the work surface. Just be sure to store the gravity feed in a proper rack every time you put it down. I didn't at first. I think that contributed to the failure of my whip hose.

i would like to invest in the Q5 fuji sprayer

Nice video I just bought the mini mite 3 I want to keep it save so which systainer did you buy what size ?

Have you posted other videos of your technique? How do you avoid painting the edges where the panel and rails/stiles meet? Really enjoyed this first video

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

Hi.... So I ment to paint the cabinets over the summer but life got in the way, but my wife informed me that I WILL be painting them over the winter so look for another video in the next couple months.

btw Hu probably want the pink and black cartridges The yellow is for heavy chemicals like chlorine and sulfur black is for organic vapors like paint

Hey!! Thanks for the video, so helpful! Quick question: where did you buy this nice blue FUJI case?

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

I made it :) its a Tanos Systainer 5 case with a FUJI mountain bike decal I got on eBay stuck on top,

Hi! Really interested to learn the Mini Mite will fit in a generic systainer. What size systainer did you get? I've already got Festool and Makita, so adding systainers makes good sense.

Two questions, what model gun do you have and where did you buy the remote on/off device?

Great video. I have the same system. You mentioned the liner part number is 16325. Can you share what is the part number for compressor cup/top filter cap and adopter required for the spray gun. Thank you!

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Sure and Thanks! - 3M PPS (Original Series) 16003 PPS Adapter 2 - 3M PPS (Original Series) 16124 PPS H/O Pressure Cup with Air Hose, Large, 28 oz, 1 Pack Got mine at Amazon and here are the links but I have no financial connection with them so get it wherever you want: smile.amazon.com/dp/B000N9RWTK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_02PWG7KMCKF4C4AH97J4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RI0GIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Good Luck! And as Bob Ross would say "Happy Painting!"

Does this system produce a lot of overspray? Compared to a wagner or homeright sprayer

Did you lose interest and not make more parts to this series? Was looking forward to seeing more content!

thanks for the information. What size is your systainer and did you do coats of BM Advance did you put on. I know its a significant wait time between coats.

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

Hi! It is a Tanos Systainer 5 - systainer T-LOC V, Sapphire Blue (Item 157947SB Model 80100030) As far as drying between coats I usually wait 24 hrs on the BM Advance. For the Styx you can paint your next coat a few hours later. Good Luck!

Need an adapter? I have the M model gun. What adapter? Thanks.

Sounds like I’m listening to Ed Helms

PPS = Paint Presentation System

Would you recommend this machine for a beginner? I saw the fuji semi pro that goes for half the price. But I know eventually I will want to purchase an upgrade to the semi pro. What's your advice?

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Paulo! I am a beginner or at least a rookie painter so yes I do recommend a HVLP system like the Fuji. I have never used the 2-stage semi-pro so I am not sure how it compares but I honestly think the paint, the Painter (you), and the 3M PPS system make just as big difference in the result. Like all painting surface preparation is the key. And anyone can put in the time to get a good result. Often I have to repeat coats and sand imperfections to get the quality of finish I want so 'craftsmanship' and care can overcome the output of your equipment except perhaps in the final coat which needs to be smooth. I went with the minimite4 because it was as much as I could afford and I don't regret it. Good Luck!

@ILruffian

Жыл бұрын

If you are new to this, the more stages the better. My Fuji Q5 platinum struggles with unthinned waterborne coatings.

hi does all fuji machines come with box?

where did you buy such a systemer?

Which size systainer are you using to store everything?

I know a guy who uses this daily to resurface tubs and countertops and he just cleans the tips and nozzles, then soaks the end of it in acetone. So that's one way. :)😏

Do you have the link of the pps adapter?

Have you ever tried spraying cabinets with lacquer? Thats all I use....I never use paint on anything that is constantly touched...or subject to wear and tear.... Lacquer provides a much harder durable and smoother finish..... It truly looks like it was applied at the factory, it levels out far more better than paint

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

I am sure lacquer looks amazing I only worry about spraying a solvent based paint. The benjamin moore advance paint is a waterborne paint that eliminates a lot of the solvent risks. The paint I use has many of the benefits of oil based paints like Lacquer in that waterborne alkyds flow well and cure to a very hard surface but because they are resin based and waterborne they are easy to clean and safe to spray without the risk of explosion or high toxicity of vaporized solvents.

@ILruffian

Жыл бұрын

@@postbeam8200 Two words: Target Coatings . Their waterborne (read: no solvent) lacquer sprays fantastic out of Fuji. And with the topcoat and crosslinker, it's chemical resistant.

Hello. Can you tell me how much you are thinning the BM advance? The spec sheet says 4% but I am reading more like 10-15%. Also what tip are you using? 1.8 or 1.5? Just picked up the same sprayer and doing some cabinets. Thanks

@postbeam8200

2 жыл бұрын

I always use the 1.5 tip and I thin it out probably 10-15% but I base it on the viscosity using the included fuji spray viscosity cup rather that volume (but honestly I would always use weight not volume in thinning) The key is the paint HAS to have the correct viscosity or it won't atomize correctly. I have never had an issue with the B-M Advance getting to thin and impacting the way the paint sets. Just use the viscosity cup and thin to the recommended time based on the Fuji user guide and you'll be fine. Good luck and happy painting.

@donclark2724

2 жыл бұрын

I'm breaking in my fuji 3 and using bm advance. First try I over thinned. Trying to get it right frustrating. I'm using Benjamin Moore thinner. (Their best recommned for spraying, dont recall name as its currently on job site where im repainting kitchen cabinet boxes. What do you use to thin ? Some say water ok.

How long did you wait between coats of the advance? I know they recommend 16 hours between coats seems like a pain to wait that long.

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Thats a good question. For the STIX primer I was often putting down a coat in the morning then going back after lunch and then after dinner in the evening, sanding smooth between each coat (4-6 hrs between coats). For the STIX primer I did a LOT of coats (10+) but it drys super fast. For the ADVANCE I would just do just 1 coat a day then leave it to cure overnight (basically 16-24 hrs). I was also putting down a heavy "wet" coat to let it flow properly and even out which is not necessary with the primer since the sanding evens it out. I typically did 2 or 3 coats of the ADVANCE. If I got a really nice smooth finish after coat #2 I would quit while I was ahead. But if it didn't look right or I was painting a high wear item (for example the silverware drawer) I would go on an do a third coat. I am planning on doing a video showing the painting in the not too distant future. Good luck!

@daleon96

2 жыл бұрын

You should be spraying cabinets with lacquer, dry time in between codes is about 15 minutes

@igorkashin9865

2 жыл бұрын

@@daleon96 what kind of lacquer do you recommend for Fuji?

@jerrysaylor4394

Жыл бұрын

@@igorkashin9865 Sherwin Williams High Build

Good stuff, pains me to see how you haven't cleaned the gun, the cup and hoses though.

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah I had high hopes of keeping everything clean in the beginning but it's just about impossible. The hose, gun and cup are kinda messy on the outside. But what is important is cleaning the working parts of the gun after every use. So I put my efforts into keeping it functionally clean if not aesthetically clean.

@wayneJohnsPhotographer

2 жыл бұрын

Made me flinch too…..my gun on the outside is as clean as it is on the inside. Cleaned thoroughly after every use, do that and your gun stays clean for years…lol

Where di you get the case?

Anyone know how the STIX/Advance two product method compares to just using INSL-X Cabinet Coat?

@ILruffian

Жыл бұрын

Advance will yellow over time. That's why I switched to cabinet coat.

@TheItalianDNA

Жыл бұрын

@@ILruffian Thanks for the info. Do you top coat with a shellac or lacquer to give a harder finish? My Main concern is chipping on edges.

@ILruffian

Жыл бұрын

@@TheItalianDNA I went from Advance ->CC->Target Coatings waterborne lacquers. If you add the crosslinker, the clear topcoat is even chemical resistant. Great company to deal with as well. And just FYI, the yellowing w/ Advance is real. BM rep will admit it.

Can pick up a cheap-ish ultrasonic cleaner on Amazon and keep it clean inside and out :)

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

I haven't tried ultrasonic. Keeping the inside clean is easy and critical to proper function. I use Fuji's spray gun cleaning kit #3100 that I got free with a mail in request when I got the gun. Keeping the outside clean is nearly impossible, because when you're spraying the excess paint that gets on the outside of the gun dries relatively quickly. By the time you're done and dismantling the gun to clean it out the paint on the outside is dry and requires a scouring pad to get it off. I haven't tried other methods, maybe ultrasonic is the magic cure :) .... but paint on the outside of the gun doesn't have any effect on the quality of the paining.

@LamentationStudio

3 жыл бұрын

@@postbeam8200 you're right, but its feels nice to pick up a tool that functions like new and looks as good as new also :)

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

@@LamentationStudio Agreed :)

how loud is the mite 4?

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

It’s like a loud vacuum cleaner. I’m going to make some videos when I start painting the cabinets and I will try and get some audio of the noise level.

Where did you purchase the blue storage container?

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

I bought mine at Woodcraft online store it was called Tanos T-Lock in sapphire blue it was the largest one measuring 16.5 inches tall. It looks like they now sell a generation 3 version. It is now called Tanos Systainer 3 M437 Item 173581SB model number 83000276. It looks like it would fit in that box. Hope that helps!

Not big on cleaning I see!

Clean your gun, !

Do not listen to this man he cannot keep his equipment clean look at that gun his tools that gun is filthy I have no respect for anyone who does not clean his tools

Boy you don’t believe in cleaning the gun obviously.

@postbeam8200

3 жыл бұрын

It's clean on the inside :) and that's where it counts.