12:20 The red color of trans fluid is just a dye so you know what kind of fluid it is - the red dye color varies based on type of fluid (compare ATF+4 to Valvoline ATF to Ford Mercon LV for example - three different shades of red or cherry). CVT fluid is often green, but sometimes amber. ATF 134 FE is blue. All of those fluids are excellent detergents, but are all different colors. The dye is not the detergent. Otherwise, excellent video and definitely the most thorough, comprehensive, and correct one on the topic on KZread. These are exactly my troubleshooting steps as well - oil (no, low, wrong, bad, dirty), electrical issues, replace screens & clean spool assembly, then replace assembly as last resort with OE parts. Nearly always you can fix these problems with no actual parts, though, which makes customers very happy (especially when another shop gave up!). Great hints on re-directing water flow and sealing the electrical connectors, however. I'll keep those in the tool bag now. I've got all my K24 customers on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-20 and they're all running great. I use Wix filters though, lol. You are correct that Honda OE provides the right oil flow but I've never had a issue with Wix or even Supertech - just not the extended interval filters from any brand.

Dude you are a flipping genius. This is the best, most comprehensive P2646 explanation/fix I have ever seen, and I've seen a LOT. I'm in the process of trying to fix this code again, beating myself up, going through every line in the manual, thinking it's all my fault...although thanks to your video I found out some things I could improve on, now I know I'm not crazy. I got Dorman parts and non-Honda filters. And I'm gonna try the oil fix you specified. Gonna have to get a Honda VTEC solenoid, but no problem, money well spent if it fixes the issue. Just like you said, the Dorman doesn't work, my gasket is cracked. Gonna change everything the right way this time. I can thank you enough, my '06 E is my third child, we've been through so much together. I hate to see it suffer needlessly, is the most reliable, loyal car I've ever had. Thanks again, man

@classicautomotivenc

Ай бұрын

Thanks for the kind words. You also need one of our water shields for the full preventative fix. Check us out at Classicautomotivenc on Facebook or Instagram. We have the shields available there. It is Element specific and Element themed. Hoping you get p2646/2647 out of your life for good.

WOW no kidding i thought i was seeing things i took the solinoid apart and found a water bed on top i took it all apart brake cleane it but it must have damaged the solinoide its self .. thank you so much,

Great video

I’ve done all three and still had the limp mode until I bypassed the oil pressure switch on the Vtech solenoid assembly.

I agree with you about Dorman products. Some of them are really good but if you want a reliable complicated part for Honda or any other brands, stick with OEM. I've had experience with these on my Honda and Ford cars and SUV's.

I run 10-30 on my element for no reason and it runs just fine

@classicautomotivenc

Ай бұрын

Well you could supplement a half quart of ATF3 in there if it was dark or gummed up in the valve cover but I’d bet it’s honey gold…….

Sounds very preventative. Nice

@bdmenne

2 ай бұрын

And THIS is why only change my own oil, along with doing my own basic to medium mechanical work.

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

Then you will likely like this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/h6ONrNZ7nbqeYMY.htmlsi=W1jOUl9tSKFJG0vW

Thanks for the video. Interesting about 0-20. A lot of dealers use 0-20 full synthetic on oil changes not 5-20

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

They do, and it is a big no no for the Element K24 engine. Some will say otherwise, but I do this all day everyday, and have been for nearly 25 years. My experience tells me that certain engine groups do not fair well with certain types of oil.

@kriskafowlski4463

2 ай бұрын

@@classicautomotivenc Great thanks. Appreciate your Video. My Mom and my Grandson have Elements that I work on

@kriskafowlski4463

2 ай бұрын

Meant to ask also. What about for the 1.7 and 1.8 Honda engines in the Civic’s? Should I run 5-30 instead of 5-20 also? Thanks

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

@@kriskafowlski4463 The D17 and R18 engines are fine on 5w20, but they can also run 5w30. One of the main reasons that the Element is different than its other K24 brethren is that it generally operates at a higher RPM than say the Accord or CRV because our transmissions have lower gearing for pulling. Thus, the oil gets a bit warmer and can cause gunk to build up if the oil isn't changed as frequently as it should be.

@kriskafowlski4463

2 ай бұрын

@@classicautomotivenc ok great. Thanks. Appreciate it

I had this code on an accord once, and it was caused by a leaking power steering hose dripping over the oil pressure switch. I believe the fix was a combination of replacing the switch and cleaning up the connector real good. And of course replacing the leaking hose first 😉. Who makes your element headlights? They look good.

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

These headlights are from Amerilite.

@jeffwest5551

2 ай бұрын

Ok thanks

Newer iterations of the K24, like my 2011 CR-V call for 0W-20. Also, I usually go Honda original parts, but when it comes to oil filters, Wix filters (especially XP) are not “Fake”, and usually outperform OE filters from Honda, Toyota, Subaru.

@classicautomotivenc

Ай бұрын

@@carnold.knowledge that’s great, I was referencing the 03-11 versions and specifically Elements. They are different because of transmission gearing. At 80 mph my 5 speed manual Element is near 4,000 rpms, whereas a CRV would be well below 3,000 rpms, probably closer to 2,000. Heat build up in the oil then becomes a concern.

@carnold.knowledge

Ай бұрын

@@classicautomotivencI hear ya brother. I have a rare issue with my K24: it actually “makes oil”! I replaced all injectors and switched to Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20, and my Fuel/Oil dilution numbers have gone down to a safe(er) range. But I’m also thinking I might be able to go with higher viscosity oil, in the event the wiper rings don’t get fixed with the new oil. Do you have any recommendations on weight, and have you heard of tried Valvoline Restore & Protect? I feel like it is a gentler version of adding ATF.

@classicautomotivenc

Ай бұрын

@@carnold.knowledge I have heard of it. I use the half quart of ATF to really clean things when you have an internally dirty engine. Because of the heat/heat soak generated in an Element engine because of the higher RPM’s oil coking is a real issue. In your case, if it was fuel getting into the crank case, I would first check the PCV valve, make sure it’s flowing properly, and then if it came into my shop with those issues, I would do an oil change of T4 Rotella 10w30 to give the rings something to grab. Fuel contamination is a bad thing and can gall the cylinder walls. Gentle is a good way to go about remedying the issue.

There's also a VTC Oil Control Valve in the end of the head. Held in by one bolt, very expensive o-ring if you mangle it and it leaks....but this valve can also can go bad OR the screens that are in it can get clogged with sludgy oil. In my case, I have done the 2 screens you show, plus have cleaned this one a few times. Initially it was very clogged. It is very easy to access

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

Generally speaking, the VTC being clogged, or leaking a lot throws a different code than P2646. It usually throws a P0010 and sometimes a few other codes. While it can contribute to a P2646, it is not usually the cause. But I agree, the screens in it clog and need to be cleaned as well. I’ve found that the ATF added to the oil does a decent job of cleaning these screens out.

@jeffwest5551

2 ай бұрын

​@@classicautomotivenc yes I believe these are two separate systems, is that correct?

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

@@jeffwest5551 Yes and no. Both have functions in the variable valve timing function, but they are separate as they relate to the ECU and where they mount on the engine. .

@jeffwest5551

2 ай бұрын

@@classicautomotivenc Yes. My understanding is that the VTC phases cam timing and Vtec only changes the valve lift at higher rpms, but I don't claim to know much.

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

@@jeffwest5551 yes, VTC in conjunction with the cam gear/cam phaser. And VTEC on these Element K24's isn't quite as aggressive as a K20 or some of the other K24's.

Great videos! Proactively sealing my wiper spray on my ‘08 Element LX and need advice for type of Honda Bond to use. Seeing option of Honda Bond 4 and Honda Bond RT. Your advice? Thanks!

@classicautomotivenc

12 күн бұрын

I use the RT version. Or I also use The Right Stuff black, but it’s overkill for a washer nozzle

@foxbodcom7993

4 күн бұрын

What part of NC are you in?

@classicautomotivenc

Күн бұрын

@@foxbodcom7993near Burlington

@foxbodcom7993

Күн бұрын

@@classicautomotivenc is there a shop number going to Charlotte in October

Would it be okay to use 5w-30 synthetic high mileage for a 04 accord almost reaching 200,000 miles or should I stick to regular synthetic and with the half quart of atf

@classicautomotivenc

23 күн бұрын

@@naturepat7927 I prefer not to mix the atf with synthetic. I would recommend conventional 5w30 with the ATF and then the next oil change switch to 5w30 synthetic high mileage.

Thanks for putting out an informative video. When adding the ATF, do you leave it in for the duration til the next regular oil change, or do you do a shorter increment like 1k miles?

@classicautomotivenc

Ай бұрын

@@hammarashi I keep a good check on the oil. If it gets dark within the first 500-1000 miles, I drain it and do a short change. This has only happened on very internally dirty engines. So yes, if it browns out quickly I change it at around 1,000 and do the treatment again

Excellent video. Extreamly clear and informative. I had this problem before on the original motor of my 03 Element as the bottom end got old and lost oil pressure (300K miles). I did fix it for a while with 5w-30 oil (thicker oil increased pressure). I've since replaced the engine and it ran great for many more thousand miles. But now the 2646 has returned and it cuts out at 3000 RPM. The engine is clean but when I checked my screens I found metal shavings in the spool valve screen. In your opinion do I now have a head issue? Should I not waste time pursuing the 2646 fix but instead replace the head or motor?

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

I do not think you have a head issue unless the camshafts make excessive noise, or you hear bottom end noise. You could pull the valve cover and inspect the camshafts to insure there is no wear there. However, I think you will be fine. Just need to go through the process of changing the oil to 5w30, and then checking the plugs for water intrusion. Seal the washer nozzle to the hood, clean and/or replace the connector to the spool valve, and then get one of the custom covers we will be revealing this week to keep water from getting into the spool valve connectors again. I think you will be fine. Those screens are designed to keep that trash out of the Spool valve. Also, might try a Honda Genuine oil filter if you are not using one.

Great information and video bud. I remember you talked to me all about this at EOTD2024 w/ my daughter recording us. I do use Mobil 1 5W20 Truck/SUV oil and the associated Mobil 1 Filter M-110A oil and now considering to your recommended 10w30 w/ ATF Dexron III. Do you use this year round even in the winter?

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

I would use the Rotella year round and know several Element owners that do. I normally suggest switching to 5w30 first though

Once you get water in there, does the code ever clear up on its own? After the heavy rain yesterday here in florida, this code popped up. I'm wondering if it wiped the spool valve out completely, like you were saying. Howd you dry it with the heat gun? I though the heat from the manifold would dry it up after a day of driving.

@classicautomotivenc

2 ай бұрын

If it's your first time of the code coming on after heavy rains, then you need to go for kind of the first line of defense. Unplug the spool valve electrical connections and blow them out with compressed air, the some contact cleaner, then dielectric grease in the connector itself. A bit of hondabond on the back of the connector where the wires go in. Then you need to seal the passenger washer nozzle with hondabond. Basically sealing it to the hood. The cowl seal may need replacing, but the end all is the new solution that we came up with in another video. The metal water deflection plate. We sell them if you're interested.

@rainbers

20 күн бұрын

@@classicautomotivencI’m interested in the metal deflection plate and a new plug with the rubber boot. How do I go about finding the price?

@classicautomotivenc

20 күн бұрын

@@rainbers message me on Instagram. @classicautomotivenc