I wish people like you would 1 day make a complete rebuild of everything (from pistons,rings, valve up), with all specs and measuring and explaining like you do

@ray5961

2 ай бұрын

Thank you for the suggestion... perhaps when I build up my 3RZ motor I will do a video like that for the channel

My grandpa passed down his1993 Toyo PU to be and am SUPER GRATEFUL to have you share your time and knowledge to rookies like me! Sure. I can do maintenance items on newer cars but getting to details like this is what the whole car experience my 43 y.o. ass never got from my lame father...thx again...DAD! 😂

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

That's cool man. The 1993 should be a solid little truck. My friend out here just got a 1994 pickup that was on its way to the wrecking yard; it's pretty close to mine that you see here in all the videos (mine is a 1990). His '94 has a couple slight changes, but nothing major that I can see. Speaking of Dads and car work.. my Dad used to drag me out of my nice warm bed when I was 12 or 13 years old and he'd made me sit on a stool out in the freezing cold driveway and help him do the brakes on our 1966 Ford Mustang.. so be careful what you wish for haha :-) I'd be freezing and he'd be saying, "you need to learn to maintain your own vehicles; you can't trust these mechanics to do the work right". Back then I just wanted to go back to sleep and enjoy my summer vacation, but now I'm glad he got me into working on motors and stuff. Anyway, glad the videos are helping out :)

@pcngo1

Жыл бұрын

@@ray5961 yeah, they definitely are helping out! Thanks again for your hard work and look forward to seeing more!! =]

@tedbastwock3810

10 ай бұрын

@@ray5961Good story, Ray, thanks for sharing. And I should thank your Dad, too, bc without him it seems I wouldn't be getting your great content! ETERNALY GREATFUL!!! 🙏

this is the most thorough and descriptive video ive ever seen .it make learning about this motor enjoyable instead of frustrating. thanks ray, it was very enlightening , i wish you had a video explaining the 20r and all its smog and vacumm and cooling and heating lines for my 1979 20r motor that is carburated (with the choke that have coolant lines , not electronic). it was all in pieces when i got it and im having a hard time finding diagrams and info on it. a video like this on my 20r, made by you would be a dream come true, thanks for this one, i learned alot. even about the 20r from this one,

Great content Ray. You have help me so much on my restoration. She ran pretty bad when I got it. But with your help she is smooth and preforms great. Got the catch can up and running also. Thanks for hardware links. Hope ya don't stop making Toyota content. Thank you again.

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

That's great Mike. Yeah, once you properly adjust the TPS and ensure the AFM is working smoothly - then start checking some of the other areas, the 22RE can run pretty smooth for sure :) What sort of oil levels are you seeing in your catch can when running the stock PCV system?

@mikeregan4505

Жыл бұрын

@@ray5961 Checked the dip stick after 50 miles. nothing yet. It is working as the stick has oil residue on it but no measurable amount on the dipstick. I put the steel filter media in the internal chamber that unscrews. No instructions but I see people just put it in the bottom of the can. Seems to me you could suck stray pieces into the plenum. As gasses water and oil go directly into the filter chamber that you unscrew internally then it will grab and let the drippings down the holes into the can. ?? We will see what happens. I've seen alot of these catch cans are made by the same company. They are identical. the only difference is the hardware and hose material.

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

@@mikeregan4505 Yeah, they all seem to be made very similar and just have different names and configurations. Be careful relying on the dipstick by the way.. it can sort of paint a false picture sometimes; it doesn't reach the exact bottom of the can, so sometimes it will show nothing, but actually there is maybe 10 to 20 ml in there. Also, you have to be careful with that little O-ring. Once I was driving on the highway and the truck wasn't running correctly... I had to stop on the side of the highway to figure out what was off track. It turned out to be that little O-ring wasn't making a good seal and it was acting as a fairly large vacuum leak. After that, I removed the dipstick and sealed that hole with an M6 bolt and some red loctite. Also, you might want to take a knife edge and scrap away the black coating from the dipstick (if you do intend to use it).. having a strip without black on it helps you see the oil a bit easier. On mine, I use just 3M green paint stripper inside the little chamber w/ all the holes; that seems to work great. Myself, I recommend actually opening the entire thing up to check it, so you can see exactly what you are dealing with. The dipstick has thrown me a few times - it looked like there wasn't too much oil, but actually the can was over half full. Having a clear glass can would actually be really handy haha :)

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

@@mikeregan4505 That's pretty cool. I'll have to swing by Yoda 1 sometime myself and check out their shop maybe. Email for sending pics, etc. is listed on the About page for my channel, thanks!

Thanks man. You've really helped a lot of people with this I'm sure.

😂 I watched this video like a movie 😂 great storyline and time spent explaining it. Love the pop up memes

You are doing God's work. Thank you sir. 👍

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

haha thanks :)

You know more about the 22re than the mechanic that did an overhaul on mine. It's an 1988 22re. I have been doing my own work on it now. Thanks to you, I use your videos to do the fixing. Thank you!

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! :-)

I have a 1986 4runner with a 22re. It's a factory turbo model with digital dash and it did come with an automatic transmission and a 22ret. The privious owner restored it and did an engine/transmission swap. Oil pump went out drove it for 5-7 minutes and it's been parked for 3 years. I'm almost ready to get it going again. Have the parts. Oil pump, headers, cam with a lift the computer still recognizes. And seals gaskets etc. I can relate to what you said in the beginning. I took auto shop for two years in high school and have only paid a mechanic two or three times. I've gained enough knowledge and have moved up to german engineering. I came accross a 1owner always garaged 2000 bmw 323i for$2500 i simply could not pass up. Needed the typical oil leak problems. Anyhoo. Videos like yours have helped keep all my cars going. Thanks for posting.

Best video yet!! Got my white 92 with a high top Leer camper shell for 500bucks years ago with 120k odo. Bought it from a nice lady and was the easiest buying experience ive ever had. Fast forward to ladt year I had 426k on the odometer and blew the head gasket for the 3rd time. 2nd time on the 22re performance head. Also the truck took on water in the intake from a flood i was in 2019 but was able to get the water out in time and drive it another 150k. Great reliable trucks!! I put an ATK crate motor in at the beginning of this year and at the same time added the LC engineering street header. I had issues fitting the air injection tube. I had to slot the holes in the tube to get it to align with the header. I talked to LCE and they told me they have never had an issue... Also It is very loud and not in a good way. I'm not sure if there is something loose in the motor. Adjusting valves a little tight does nothing, that usually quiets them up on anything I've had. it's getting louder at 25k currently, It's like a clacking noise. Luckily there's a 3 year no mile limit 1 time no fault warranty so il be calling at the 2.5 year mark if it lasts that long. Thanks for the videos!!👋

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

The LCE head is generally a pretty good fit. I think I did have to run a round bastard file down a couple of the mounting holes to give me a little wiggle room when I installed mine. It's definitely a very, very snug fit during installation. The AS tube makes it even more tricky. "Bolt on" is always really "fabricate on" when it comes to aftermarket parts haha... and yeah, with the header it's going to be much louder; the stock cast iron manifold quiets down a lot of the exhaust noise. Most all 22RE's have a valve train tick to them - even when in perfect adjustment. 4 cylinder motors have inherent imbalances in them also; nothing you do will really ever resolve it. If you want a smooth running, quiet motor, the 4 cylinder is not a good place to begin haha :)

One of my all time favorite Toyota engines! Thanks for the video

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! Yeah, the 22RE will get you where you are going come hell or high water :-)

@BabakPA

Жыл бұрын

@@ray5961 😀👊🏼

Great video.

Great video. Subscribed

Very educative, I learned so much watching this video, thank you

@ray5961

2 ай бұрын

Thanks!

I deleted my last comment. Excellent details. I just purchased a TPS and THEN I found your site through this video. My mistake. I will be back to visit 22RE Performance for future parts. I really appreciate your content here. I have been effing with my 4Runner for over a month trying to get it to idle and run. I will check your site and implement some of the suggestions/changes you have made. I am looking forward to getting my runner back on the street.

Ray, I gather from watching lots of your vid that you don't necessarily need it, but, you know, as much as you've learned, and with the following you've created on YT, I bet some of the yota specific companies like 22RE performance and others might find you valuable. Maybe there can be a conversation started between you and some of them in those regards some day. I wish you the best, and want you to know that me and mine appreciate all this knowledge more than you will ever know.

@ray5961

10 ай бұрын

Thanks! Glad the videos are helpful

Amazing video. Love all the Toyota pickup videos. Been wrenching for close to 20yrs..but I’m sort of new the the 22re, and the truck’s format. For example, leaf springs, solid axles, truck stuff haha. Been restoring my dad’s pickup. And your videos are so helpful. Gave thumbs up the stripper analogy hahhaa jk

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man haha!

Very nice!

great vid man

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

thanks!

Best trucks ever!!!

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

They are the best!

bro you are fucking hilarious. thanks for taking the time to put this out. It will become an invaluable resource to me soon enough.

@ray5961

6 ай бұрын

haha thanks! :-)

I have a 86 turbo 4 runner, 22re, straight front, 529’s rock crawled out, bought for 6k put over 10k into it so far, most my vaccum lines and electrical are shot, no dead hooker smell but I love it so much! 😅

Fantastic video and story about getting the truck. Love a good stripper stained cabin!

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

haha thanks! :-)

Best video ever! I was wondering if you can suggest an aftermarket cruise control for my 1992 22re , 2wd, dlx extracab. PS: I believe I’ve seen all your videos at least 3 times!!! Just put in a new tps today.

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Thanks very much. Glad you enjoy the videos. I have a good time making them. I don't have any first hand experience with cruise control stuff on the 22RE, so I can't be of much help. My only advice is that Toyota OEM is usually best in situations like this.

Hi Ray. Thanks for this video! I have a 91’ 4WD with 276K on the motor. Head gasket has a small leak (exhaust gasses blowing into coolant) and according to the previous owner, there’s an aftermarket head on the truck. Would you bother installing a new head gasket or just do a long block replacement considering the mileage on the block?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

A lot depends on what cylinder head you have on there when it comes to the previous owner. If he installed a $2000 LC Engineering Pro Street head, that's something to consider. If it's just a non Toyota OEM head from ebay, that might be something else less important. As far as the current state of your short block and whether it's worth using, that's also hard to say. Is your current setup burning oil? Do you happen to know the compression readings across all the cylinders? I guess I'd say the answer depends... if you don't want to spend a ton of money, you might want to just pull the existing head off and inspect things. If you have a bore gauge that is accurate down to .0001, you could measure the cylinder walls (see my video on hand scraping the block for more info). If the walls measure out okay, then you might be okay and can just get away with slapping a new head gasket on. If you do that, I would suggest using the Fel Pro 26185 PT head gasket, which has Teflon and Kevlar in it www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2CA4A/ - you can also find it at places like Napa Auto. That's the gasket I run and so far it's been outstanding. You can also get yourself a surface plate here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JYKIVC/ and use that with a sheet of 1000 grit sandpaper to flatten out the block (pull the dowels as shown in my video below) and cylinder head and then just slap some new head bolts in (chase the holes in the block with a tap). See my video here and it might give you some ideas: kzread.info/dash/bejne/k5Vq2NiwfM_WhKzM.htmlttps://kzread.info/dash/bejne/k5Vq2NiwfM_WhKw.html

Hey Ray wonderful video, so I'm about to bite the bullet and do the lc engineering stage 3 22re rebuild, and this is my first time doing a rebuild. Will it really be as simple as get the "long block", bolt it up to transmission/ensure its on its mounts, rehook up the vacuum lines/wires, put in all new fluids, and then turn the key? Or like do I need to do all the balances to the AFM and the throttle position sensor? What I'm really asking I guess...is a turnkey engine REALLY a turnkey engine?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

You'll only need to adjust the throttle position sensor if you remove that and replace it, but yes that needs to be in perfect adjustment. Double check with LCE, but I don't believe level 3 will work with the stock ECU. This means you will have to run some other engine management system. No matter what, you'll need to adjust the air/fuel ration (stock ECU or not). To do this, I highly recommend installing some sort of wide band O2 sensor, which will give you real time A/F ratios (or lambda data). I use the AEM gauge here and it's been tremendously helpful for tuning. Also, if you have never brought a motor up from scratch, make sure you break it in with something like Lucas Break in oil, not synthetic oil. You also need to properly break in the cam lobes, which is a job all in itself. Additionally, you need to pay special attention to purging the air correctly from the cooling system (using one of those funnel deals from amazon). Let me know if you have any other questions! :)

This was an incredible presentation. I have a question. I have a 22re with 159k miles. I have small cracks on those tiny hoses on top of the throttle body. Where can I get replacements?

@ray5961

7 ай бұрын

Thanks! Here's the hose I used to run all new vacuum lines on my truck www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KNVPE

I have a rear main seal leak I think. How long can it go unrepaired?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Usually pretty long, as long as it's not gushing out oil and as long as the oil isn't getting up onto the clutch disc (assuming it's manual). If it's just dripping on the driveway, you can usually deal with that for a long time as long as you keep the levels in the motor up. What generally goes wrong is the seal has a spring which applies pressure to the rubber where it touches the crankshaft. That pressure wears a little groove into the crank after many thousands of miles. That undermines the perfect seal of the crank seal - however, once that happens, the wear tends to halt. Once the groove is worn, it tends to not continue to get bad as quickly, because the spring can only apply so much pressure into that small area; so the groove will sort of exist, but slow down as far as how much it wears (if that makes sense). So as long as you don't see oil gushing out and/or the size of the drip (the rate of it) doesn't seem to be rapidly increasing, you can probably just continue to drive for a long time and/or until you get around to replacing the seal. I wouldn't use any of those leak stop products, however. Those work by expanding the rubber and usually that's only a short term solution. Hope that helps; let me know if you have any questions on anything I've said here.

Great channel. I just subscribed. You should have more subscribers based on the technical competency of this channel. I'm looking at buying a 1993 22RE that has been sitting for 9-years. Do you think I need to rebuild the motor or can it be resurrected with some basic maintenance actions?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Thanks man! On the 1993 22RE, if it's been sitting for 9 years, I would initially start by pulling the spar plugs out before starting, just on the off chance maybe the head gasket had blown and water leaked into the cylinders, etc. Get a bore scope camera (the DS520 from Depstech is what I use here) and then rotate the pistons down and inspect the cylinder walls. At long as there is not too much rust in side and/or the rings haven't rusted to the cylinder walls and scored things, then you should probably be fine. Sitting shouldn't really cause any major harm as long as the rubber hasn't decayed too far or anything. Has it been sitting outside or inside? How many miles on the motor?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

@@airitwide Sounds like a project for sure. Make sure the motor rotates freely with the plugs removed using a 19mm socket and ratchet. 192K miles isn't major, but you'll most likely be looking at replacing the timing chain and guides at least. Let me know if you have any other questions!

Hi Ray. What an extensive piece on vacuum lines. Holy cow! Anyway, hope you can help. The two vacuum lines coming off TB and Plenum to PS valve to up the idle. Do you know size of these two. They are about 18" long. I need to replace them as one just cracked a piece off when I was doing valve adjustment and moving it. Thks..jc

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

I just removed those last month on my friend's truck... but I believe we threw them into the trash. But if you swing by Napa or some place like AuzoZone, you can probably track down the hose.. they usually sell a nice collection of gates hoses and most places will let you venture into the back to compare sizes (that's what I do).

@Samson-EC

Жыл бұрын

@ray5961 Thanks again Ray..Appreciate it..jc

Hi Ray. With all these vacuum lines which one is the one to connect vavuum guage to? And what would be acceptable psi on it. I have 22re 4wd sr5 efi with 228k mi. Thks for the input as always..jim

@ray5961

11 ай бұрын

You can attach a vacuum line to any port that is on the upper intake Plenum or you can tee into any line coming off the Plenum already, but you cannot connect the vacuum gauge to any of those hoses up at the front of the throttlebody, it has to be off the Plenum. As far as at idle around 900 RPM you should be seeing about 18 in/Hg on the gauge once the motor is warmed up generally speaking

@Samson-EC

11 ай бұрын

@ray5961 OK, great info. So I have two ps vacuum lines running off the plenum to a valve of some sort for ps. Would one of those work then. And as followup. What if vacuum shows below 18? Thks very much..jim

@ray5961

11 ай бұрын

@@Samson-EC As long as the T is near the plenum, that should work yeah. Google something like "how to use a vacuum gauge" and there is some good info out there on line; that's how I learned to use one. Here's a typical page: www.onallcylinders.com/2015/05/08/quick-tech-how-to-read-a-vacuum-gauge-to-pinpoint-engine-problems/ - also don't forget to adjust for elevations above sea level. Mostly the vacuum levels gives you a picture into the health of the motor, specifically the ring sealing and/or if you have any vacuum leaks lurking around any place on the intake manifold stuff.

@Samson-EC

11 ай бұрын

Ok. Thanks Ray

Funny thing is, I did the same think to the MAF on my 1993 pickup. I thought I could disconnect it and I was being nosey, tinkering.

@ray5961

24 күн бұрын

Yeah, I was shocked when I pulled it out thinking it was some type of MAF sensor only to see the guts rip out in my hands :)

The best 1000 buck I spend 22 years ago. 2wd I used to get 32gpm the 28 with 350000 miles. Lol.

Thanks for the video, was looking at this to better understand vac lines for possible egr delete.. I have a question with a 22re that perhaps you can help me with. I have a 1994 pu 4x4 with 22re.. 175k miles it blew the head but i caught it very quickly and it was ran hot. just did a head gasket replace, resurface head, water pump, oil pump timing kit w gear, chain, tensioner and guides, timing cover, radiator. After the above work i noticed the valves ticking like crazy, either in c3 or4 towards firewall. Before it blew the head gasket the valves only ticked at idle.. at idle all u could hear was slight valve tick, injector tick, and mostly radiator fan.. the engine sounded and ran amazing, thats why i chose to do that kinda rebuild. After rebuild noted above it still runs great, but valves are crazy loud. Mechanic said he checked valves and they were mostly in spec at 8 and 12 and barely needed adjustment.. i put 300 miles on engine and it drove me so crazy i thought it might be an exhaust leak, so i got the mechanic the fix the exhaust leak where the manifold bolts to first down?pipe and readjust valves.. no change... it doesnt tick intermittantly like some exhaust leaks do they go queit when warm.. this ticks and has never stopped.. The ticking is def from valves and not timing cover, you can hear it loud at idle and through all band of the rpm in everygear. I know these engines are known to have ticky valves. But what bothers me is it never did it anything like this before the headjob, what explains why it is doing it now. Assuming mechanic did good work, valves are in adjust... [ he put to 7 and 11 the 2nd time].. what explains why it sounds like a completely different truck and ticking like a diesel?? Can you help me work backwards under tgese assumptions then at last resort seem what assumptiobs of likely false.. please help

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

It's hard to diagnose motors over the internet, but a few things come to mind. First off, I'd run the valves at .008 and .012, not .007 and .011. The main reason being what's known as "seat time". If you run the valves too tight, you reduce the time the valve remains in contact with its seat and this can work to reduce heat transfer between the valves and the seats, which is the main way they transfer heat away from themselves. Also, how much did you remove from the cylinder head? When you surface the head and/or block, you lower the height of the camshaft center line and thus the timing sprocket. This introduces slack into the timing chain. It can also throw off the camshaft timing. Keep in mind that 1 degree error in the camshaft equals 2 full degrees error in the crankshaft. This might not explain the noisy valve train, but it's something to be aware of. Also, when you did the top end, did you happen to check to see if the timing chain guides on either side had fractured? That's very common with the single row chains and the plastic guides. This combined with a bit more slack in the chain can result in a lot of noise. I'd find out how much was removed from the cylinder head and also remove the valve cover and inspect the timing chain guides. Keep in mind also, if the timing chain is slack, there is a defect in the 22RE whereby the timing chain (when loose) can wear a hole through the cover near the water pump area - this can eventually result in water being introduced into the oil. There is a mention of it on the Wiki page for the Toyota 22RE motor if you want to find out more. Another thing to keep in mind is the relationship between the camshaft lobes and their respective rocker arms (specifically the pads). Usually it's best to keep those matched, since they tend to burnish into each other. If you have removed the rocker arms and switched them around at any point, that could possibly (although it's low risk) cause issues. My guess is the noise is stemming from the chain and echoing around a bit. Also, what weight oil are you running and are you running an oil with ZDDP in it? These motors are using flat-tappet cams, which do not like modern synthetic oils and/or oil which do not contain stuff like zinc and moly. So that's something to consider as well. Let me know if you have any other questions on anything. Also, it's possible some of the noise could be stemming from the lower end.. such as piston rings, etc. Have you run a compression check and/or leak down test? In some cases, when a motor over heats, you can butt the piston rings and break them. When that happens, it can cause the pistons to rock a bit more than usual and this additional piston slap can make noise also.

@shamos999

Жыл бұрын

@@ray5961 I am not sure how much came off the deck when it was resurfaced.. This was outsourced by the mechanic to a trusted machibe shop, no further details there. The guides were broken, and the waterjacket work into by the chain, I believe i caught it the first day it penetrated the waterjacket for the following 2 reasons, 1) that morning on the way to work i noticed higher than normal oil pressure, and 2)it started overheating after work that same day bc i caught it idling lower than usual and almost stalled coming out of gas station and noticed it was 65% on temp guage.. usually runs 48%.. pulled out let it cool checked radiator bone dry and pulled dipstick was slightly milked and got it towed to shop from there. The guides, tensioner, timing chain , gear and timing cover were all replaced... I bought a mechanics stethoscope and the noise is mot coming from timing cover, its under valve cover near cylinder 3 or 4 more towards firewall..It never ticked like this before. Im currently running 10-30 valvoline syntheic blend...

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

@@shamos999 I'd find out how much was taken off the head. Trust no mechanic. Did you upgrade to the dual row timing chain or just go with the single row again? Also, were Toyota factory parts used for this job or after market stuff? As far as the ticketing, it's hard to say. Could be the guides weren't done correctly or it could be there is an issue with a piston wrist pin or something. It's just really hard to say for sure without knowing everything which was done. I think if it were me, my next step would be to do a compression test and a leak down test on each of the cylinders to make sure everything is sealing up okay and the compression figures are in line. If the oil was milky, it could have damaged the cam lobes or pads. You could have also scuffed up the cylinder walls and now the piston skirts are making noise. If you are running full synthetic oil you really should add some Lucas ZDDP to the mix. Something with both ZDDP and Moly could help quite things down. Maybe try some Driven Racing oil HR2 10W-30 for a bit and see if that helps. You could also have some guides sticking and causing the valves not to come back up correctly and/or some issue with the valve springs or something. It's just really hard to say without inspecting things or knowing what was done. Engine building correctly requires a lot of attention to detail. If you get one thing off, it can raise hell. And yeah, the "Toyota Ticking" is generally only heard at idle. Once you are going down the road, you shouldn't really be hearing that. If you are hearing something as you drive, that sounds like something is off. Who did the engine assembly and was break-in oil used as well as engine assembly lube/grease? If the valve guides were done, did they replace the rocker arms and/or cam or anything?

@shamos999

Жыл бұрын

@@ray5961 I will try to find how much was taken off the head on resurface. I went with the single row chain, and all parts were oem toyota aisin bought from yotashop. I will also see about a compression test, and look at doing an oil change with better oil.. Engine assembly was done by a trusted local mechanic, break in oil was not used, but i believe assembly grease used valve guides, rocker arms, and cam not replaced.... only things replaced were head gasket, various head seals, head bolts, full timing kit, timing cover, water pump, oil pump, thermostat, radiator. I am just really bummed bc it sounded great before it blew the head gasket, only ticking at idle, purred goibg down the road... i rebuilt it bc it purred so well, now i have $3400 in repairs and it sounds like a different truck, ticks as loud as a diesel just a bit faster... other than loud valvetrain it still runs great and very strong but i am very bummed out about the new ticking through the entire rpm band in every gear... sadface

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

@@shamos999 Yeah, that sucks for sure. I've had issues with my truck and people say stuff like "just get rid of that truck, it's costing you too much time". But in the end it will be worth all the headaches. I wish I could help you out a bit more. I don't know what exactly could be causing your issue there. You're sure it's not an exhaust leak maybe in the air suction system or something? Are you running a header or the stock manifold? Another thing is that I've noticed some exhaust manifolds have their bonding rivets in a strange location and interferes with the exhaust mounting flange. I forget which brand it was, but one of the exhaust gaskets I got had the rivets in a slightly different location and it caused the header flange to not sit down properly. I wonder if maybe you might have something going on like that, which is allowing exhaust to get by or something? On the exhaust gasket, you should able to see all 4 rivets where the head shield thing attaches. You might want to confirm all 4 are in the clear and not infringing on the header / manifold flange. Does the ticking noise increase with engine RPM throughout the entire RPM range?

Where did you get your wiring harness?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

I built it. It's the factory harness mostly, but I took it completely apart and then modified connections and installed my own high temp sleeving, etc.

@steveperry5225

Жыл бұрын

Wow! That’s amazing!

Is this a California Model?

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

Not sure. I think I looked it up once and it was originally sold in Texas, but I could be wrong.

Please do 20R engine now.....

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

I don't have any experience with the 18R or 20R motors, so I probably wouldn't be a lot of help there :) Thanks for watching though.

Great video! But you really stress this tachometer... Do you really need one that bad? I've been driving trucks for years without a tachometer, you should be able to feel the engine it's almost second nature. I mean I could see it for a high performance situation but not necessary for a daily driver or a casual driver

@ray5961

Жыл бұрын

They come in handy. Also, my motor / cam is setup for top end power. The difference between winding out the motor to 6000 vs. 6500 on shifts can have significant impact on piston lands, ring flutter, etc. If it were just a daily cruiser then it wouldn't be as important, although I would still want to have a tach. Also, on this particular truck, I'll be replacing the motor soon with a 3RZ turbocharged motor. That spins up to more like 8000 RPM w/ high boost levels, so the tach becomes critical in that situation; I was trying to keep the analog gauges while doing that, although I sure do like those Haltach dashboards :)

Awesome video. So I recently had to do a head gasket on my 91 22-re 4×4 pick-up. I also did the Air injection delete and EGR delete. Truck idles great. But if I manually rev the motor up from the from the throttle body it doesn't idle back down so the way to a idle line it should and when I drive it the is no power it won't even spin the tires in the gravel. It won't even drive up a hill without shifting all the way to first gear sometimes. The truck looks like it has a new TPS on it. I was going to do the oulm test on the TPS today but it's raining really good today it here in Washington. We're would you start with this problem? Any help would be great. I enjoy your videos.

@ray5961

3 ай бұрын

You definitely want to make sure the TPS is perfectly adjusted according to the shop manual. I would also check to see if the door on the AFM is operating correctly and not binding or sticking partially open. Try running a can of Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank also.. that can often help noticeably. Let me know if you have any more questions - gotta be spinning tires in the gravel!!