I'm glad you did this video because my lrp 28 wasn't running right after I took it apart and cleaned it and sure enough the head was not on right, it makes a difference.

You got me looking at my Engines Yea the Dynamite put the writing on the sides of the engine on the .28 Big Red and the .26 but there are cut outs for the mounting bolts on both sides the Dynamite.19 the writing is on the corner great video👍

Nice vid Todd 💯 For sure there are some preferences out there between the manufacture and the end user. Also, if there is an engine “designed” for a specific platform then, they may put the cut outs and/or the logo and writing in a certain way. May all depend on chassis layout At the end of the day, it is a heat exchanger and “shouldn’t matter” in most cases. - There are some heads that are designed to be orientated and the manufacture talks about it in the manual or other literature. An example would be the Toki/HPI 12e/15Fe. The air flow is to be collinear with the air flow. I always try to align my heads with air flow through the head if possible and/or if the head is designed for air flow (air flow through the larger opening to the center of the head if possible) - The engine mount bolt “slots” in the head are nice to keep in their spots but, you can always rotate the head in whatever way you need/prefer. You do t have to keep the bolt slots “in the right place” if you don’t want/need to In my eyes, function always supersedes beauty/looks. So, I don’t care what way the logo/writing is but, if possible, I try to keep it “in line” with the crank too - Similar to the engines that have exhaust and carb cut out on the head, some designs just dont allow you to rotate them. Like I said above, it’s a heat sink and should still be ok anyway you put them but, if you can install them to maximize air flow, then try I suppose For buggies that have their head exposed, it doesn’t really matter what way they are. - For touring cars (especially 1/10) it does matter since the head is normally within the body. Air flow is important. LoL thats enough. Just my thoughts on the matter - Thanks for the fun vid 🩷

Excellent review! Very very informative thank you

Wow very interesting thanks for sharing that information 🤙

Go by the logo and cut outs

I go by the cut outs man

I had one of those .21 XP in my hyper 7 when the XTM .247 that was in it wore out. Its a good lil engine. Lacks a lil bottom end compared to my Alpha and Novarossi but it's a lil screamer. Lasted around 8 gallons.

My Reds engines have the flow path, when the head is oriented in the stock format. My GS Racing engine, it is blocked. But, if I turned it, it would be open, and the top engine screw cutout/relief area would be to the front and back, hmm... I may have it the wrong way. Im gonna check the advertisment. Interesting. (Edit) After looking i have the gs rqcing engine in the wrong position. It should have the writing facing to the side of the engine. Im kinda surprised, and I am going to turn it to sideways now, and the reliefs will be on the side, and the cylinder flow will be front to back. Glad I seen thi video or I would have never looked most likely. Lol. Thanks

It's almost like some of these heads have the head windows casted so that you have a bit of a tuning option -- clock the windows at 12 & 6 o'clock for slightly more cooling w/ air going through the head, or clock them at 3 & 9 o'clock if you're struggling to keep the temps up. Probably a marginal difference but I guess it's quick and easy enough to quickly change to do some before/after temp measurements in the same conditions.

I use the kyosho ke21sp it's been in production for many years their easy to get parts for and can be modified.a lot of the nitro engines made are not in production for a long time and can't buy parts for some of those use once and throw away motors.

I have noticed on my os and reds the under the cooling head there is a dot that lines up with the indicators on the sleeve orientation and also the head button orientation. I always line the cooling head with these in mind

I didn't know glo plug path exsited.

Cut outs are for body's do to heat issues

Center cutouts are not for airflow, they are there to let heat escape from middle of the button which is the closest point to the combustion chamber.....