NIAS: TALKING ON THE WAVE OF MY LIFE (ALMOST!)

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Excerpt from my film OVER THE EDGE: speaking on one of my best moments in surfing, during the biggest swell to ever hit Nias, Indonesia. If I made it, I think this would have been the ride of my life...
Edit: Andrew Kaineder
geni.us/OverTheEdge

Пікірлер: 65

  • @toomuchfandango
    @toomuchfandango Жыл бұрын

    amazing takeoff and commitment! that last lip looked like a near shutdown anyway.

  • @reddiver7293
    @reddiver7293 Жыл бұрын

    Respect for paddling into that beast. And sorry about that weird little section that broke in front of you. Awesome ride, mate.

  • @xyzct
    @xyzct Жыл бұрын

    _Waves I Didn't Make_ Finally, a series I can contribute to.

  • @UMEK12
    @UMEK12 Жыл бұрын

    Stand out performance on that swell. Big respect

  • @MattBromleySurf

    @MattBromleySurf

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks man. One of the best days of my life

  • @tomotto3208

    @tomotto3208

    Жыл бұрын

    @@MattBromleySurf Nathan Florence said that you were the only one pushing the boundaries that day 🤙🤙🤙

  • @Inzyman100
    @Inzyman100 Жыл бұрын

    Impressed!!

  • @Redbug72
    @Redbug72 Жыл бұрын

    🌊Big Wave King🌊

  • @protectourfreedom8221
    @protectourfreedom8221 Жыл бұрын

    OMG full commitment and elephant balls

  • @MattBromleySurf

    @MattBromleySurf

    Жыл бұрын

    Hahaha !

  • @leighgilmour1702
    @leighgilmour1702 Жыл бұрын

    Whoop whoop 🙌🏼 🎉

  • @Rogue_wave
    @Rogue_wave Жыл бұрын

    Wow. Absolutely mental one. That take off was so gnarly!

  • @moscaman559
    @moscaman559 Жыл бұрын

    HEAVY 💪🏼💪🏼

  • @branlee7373
    @branlee7373 Жыл бұрын

    Fantastic footage, and nicely done!

  • @SurfRawFiles
    @SurfRawFiles Жыл бұрын

    Epic,cant wait for this season!

  • @tnkmch
    @tnkmch4 ай бұрын

    Dude you made that drop!!!! The tube pinching, that's on the wave.

  • @marksheehan8026
    @marksheehan8026 Жыл бұрын

    Crazy looking at the first aerial view of the point . Only palm trees when l was there , every morning to myself , midday with 2 others , Back then it was the only low tide surfable break l knew of in the islands . But they were not beasts like this . Great commitment to the drop mate .

  • @MrIsomer

    @MrIsomer

    Жыл бұрын

    Yes, only palm trees and Dougga Warren getting pitted out there with me as well when I first surfed the place!

  • @marksheehan8026

    @marksheehan8026

    Жыл бұрын

    @@MrIsomer awesome what year an month we're you there, june or july 77 for me .

  • @MrIsomer

    @MrIsomer

    Жыл бұрын

    @@marksheehan8026 I was busy dipping my toes into G-Land June '77. Then I saw Eric Aeder's cover shot of Nias a few years later, and ventured to Lagundri I think Aug. of 1980 and shot some footage of Dougga there for my first movie Bali High.

  • @MrIsomer

    @MrIsomer

    Жыл бұрын

    @@marksheehan8026 1977 - Wow. Good for you! Almost back in the Peter Troy days!

  • @marksheehan8026

    @marksheehan8026

    Жыл бұрын

    @@MrIsomer myself and 3 others early June 77 had an indo boat organized to go to Glands but the Harbour master wouldn't let us leave port in Bali unless a Yank named Bouyon gave permission his response was 100US $each per day to him or no go , we found out later the indo officials were all tangled up together , he eventually had to flee indo when a few drug deals went bad with officials , lam still a little guttered we were so close in going . There's a doco called sea of darkness about that Era n him . Good for you making there wouldn't have been a soul about for you .

  • @joemeeker5211
    @joemeeker5211 Жыл бұрын

    Very heavy!!

  • @davehasenford3985
    @davehasenford3985 Жыл бұрын

    good stuff

  • @hman7236
    @hman7236 Жыл бұрын

    This is one of the craziest rides I've seen....so nice 👍

  • @ryancornett7916
    @ryancornett7916 Жыл бұрын

    Insane drop but that wave closed, you weren’t even close 😂

  • @joemeeker5211
    @joemeeker5211Ай бұрын

    More please!

  • @paivamarcelo
    @paivamarcelo Жыл бұрын

    pretty sick take off, man ....woww Insane moment

  • @JiuJitsuMasterCaique
    @JiuJitsuMasterCaique5 ай бұрын

    Your drop was so radical it was worth a lot man 👍👊💪🙏

  • @crayk7598
    @crayk7598 Жыл бұрын

    That waves was on Nias yesterday? :O

  • @sumatran
    @sumatran Жыл бұрын

    Holy hell that was heavy...

  • @mrg.8754
    @mrg.8754 Жыл бұрын

    Big ballz and dizzy balance...Dat' was nuts !!!

  • @tyronelol
    @tyronelol Жыл бұрын

    All good you rode it perfect it pinched.

  • @iankyoko
    @iankyoko Жыл бұрын

    Still special

  • @BigDaddy-hn7oh
    @BigDaddy-hn7oh Жыл бұрын

    Hey brother that was one heavy take off

  • @impactexperts8200
    @impactexperts8200 Жыл бұрын

    🔥🔥🔥 Sitting deep in the pack.

  • @jaydickey1049
    @jaydickey1049 Жыл бұрын

    Were you talking to yourself or the fish?

  • @guyralls9314

    @guyralls9314

    Жыл бұрын

    Lo when typos kinda make sense

  • @killbill5486
    @killbill5486 Жыл бұрын

    That drop omg.

  • @hounddog7256
    @hounddog7256 Жыл бұрын

    the only Nias wave that didn't allow any exit...

  • @nickr2425
    @nickr2425 Жыл бұрын

    So heavy!!!!

  • @richardrich8010
    @richardrich8010 Жыл бұрын

    That’s awesome I probably would have died😁

  • @twmpuketa
    @twmpuketa Жыл бұрын

    You did everything right. The wave had other plans

  • @billfletcher5495
    @billfletcher5495 Жыл бұрын

    Respect

  • @sandroribeiro2979
    @sandroribeiro2979 Жыл бұрын

    Superman

  • @romcallis
    @romcallis Жыл бұрын

    Is this from that swell in 2018?

  • @kg-4062
    @kg-4062 Жыл бұрын

    Fuck it I'd call that a make ! You got to get near full marks just for the drop . Ballsy.

  • @michaelscurr9046
    @michaelscurr9046 Жыл бұрын

    Nice late drop I think it helped him get a little deeper

  • @cnfabo
    @cnfabo Жыл бұрын

    How U stuck that takeoff brother, 🙏🙏.. incredible

  • @MattBromleySurf

    @MattBromleySurf

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you! One of the best moments of my life

  • @damianbeattie91
    @damianbeattie91 Жыл бұрын

    talking or taking?

  • @patricknolan1096
    @patricknolan109626 күн бұрын

    Blew it goofy

  • @CJ_102
    @CJ_102 Жыл бұрын

    Ricky would have made it lol

  • @Jasman-me3cg
    @Jasman-me3cgАй бұрын

    Hallo

  • @mrmr314
    @mrmr314 Жыл бұрын

    Yeah cos you sat low when Nias requires you to sit high or mid-way up the face. But nice charging that drop. Rare for Nias to close-out like that. Well done. (Of course charging reefs in the tropics always carries more medical dangers than are reasonable).

  • @Rogue_wave

    @Rogue_wave

    Жыл бұрын

    Lol if he highlined that he would’ve been upside amigo

  • @fritzmuller8246
    @fritzmuller8246 Жыл бұрын

    Mind and body bending

  • @byronbaybarrels
    @byronbaybarrels Жыл бұрын

    gotta hate when ya feet go out of position from a mental drop like that, then you gotta learn how to ride that board with your feet where they are instantly, in a hectic position. composure kept. kudos

  • @justtowatch111
    @justtowatch111 Жыл бұрын

    Awesome takeoff but I have to say that there is no way that was going to be the wave of your life. It could have been the closeout drilling of your life though.

  • @djizzah
    @djizzah Жыл бұрын

    pity it sectioned, not much you could do

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