Sounds logical if all the frets and the slots are exact then why wouldn't it be level it's like laying tile u don't sand down tile after u install it u install it flat to begin with

@deans.4705

4 жыл бұрын

The guitar wood expands and contracts with its surroundings and the frets never stay completely level over time. It is just wood. There are a myriad of changes that can happen. What if when you adjust the truss rod, it doesn't bend exactly straight. For players that use extremely low action, it's quite easy to see where the issues occur. You can get a perfect fret level job done and years later the frets may not be perfectly level without even playing it. Add into the fact that when playing, fret wire is being worn away by the strings all of the time. In extreme cases you will see the dents on the wire but even then when doing bends you are wearing them away slowly over time. Going back to your tiling analogy, think of a new tile job in a brand new house, when the house settles over the next few years, is the tile job going to remain exact on a wood subfloor that has shifted?

@iridios6127

3 жыл бұрын

+ - @@deans.4705 To get rid of BS with the surroundings, laquer for guitar, neck and fretboard were invented. Stainless steel frets were invented for resistance of wearing.

@deans.4705

3 жыл бұрын

@@iridios6127 For some that live in a stable climate you may not notice. I live in Toronto where the summers are 85-95F and humid and the winters are 20-40F and dry. Lacquers won't help you. I can have a fret level done, not play it and 6 months later I can use a fret rocker and there will be frets misaligned. I keep the house between 40 and 50 percent humidity to combat this and it still happens. I keep them in cases when not played as well. Stainless steel frets will help with wear portion.

@gw2031

3 жыл бұрын

Even with CNC and plec machines there are very minute differences,,,to most of us,the cost of the machinery prohibits the luxury of not having to level frets,,for me ? My realistic target is having a 1 to 1,5mm flat spot so re crowning isn't a big deal.

@crashdummy40

3 жыл бұрын

Tile doesn't produce dead strings or fret buzz.....

Chris… I’m a guitar builder. Your videos are like the morning news to me. I replay them over and over just to focus myself. Really appreciate the time you put into making them. You’re hella cool brother. 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻

Interesting stuff but description should read "when building the guitar". I'd imagine that for most of us who came here we simply saw it and thought we could avoid fret-levelling on all our old guitars. Thanks for listening.

@NACHOXVALLE

4 жыл бұрын

Specially in those cases you've mentioned.. If you realize the way for a perfect fretboard leveling (after quit the old frets set) then you'll get the chance of a charmly refret. Very important to get the perfect & exact radius in those frets before install them just in the same exact radius of your fixed fretboard. That's why 2 PERFECT jigs are needed (i've made almost all of my tools); one for for get the wood radius & the adjustable bender for the radius frets. Going a little far away right now i'm doing individual fret shapers of brass to get perfect fret radius in each fret of a compound radius. A press for frets is needed, two pieces of brass (concave & convex) with the exact radius of each fret, the whole fret set entirely bended in a little exceeded radius, then cuted, & a little bit of heat from a heat gun or solder station. Tryin' to modify the radius of an already cuted fret is not easy even with a press & the brass shapers, but the hot air do the trick, taking in count the necessary temperature for each possible fret alloy, avoiding deform the crown & tang of them.

when i see your videos i can see all the passion you put in making this instruments. The way you talk about all the little details on making a perfect build on the first try is just amazing and inspiring to me. For me you're a true genius that loves making guitars and translates all his knowledge to a high quality craft. You're inspiring.

I cant count the # of times I have tried to tell people this good to finally hear someone with the same ideas . if you start with a perfectly level fretboard and press the frets in properly you should have almost no fret work to do

@ssabp8313

4 жыл бұрын

@ john Mcdonnell : I have never tried to build a guitar and I thought about it I've also thought about having to we fret a guitar not that bringing a to a guy Would be a bad idea. They deserve the business and what they get paid. But this idea about banging in frets I just couldn't understand that it And I've never touched a single raw fret. Fretboard ever. Why not press them in .

FINALLY someone who takes the time and care to install frets as they should be installed. Well done Sir 👍

I am at the start of my guitar building career(5 guitars in) and this video answered/confirmed a lot of things I have noticed. On the most recent build I have used stainless frets with an arbor press and I have had the stellar results you talk about. I did do some beam leveling, but like you said, it was probably not necessary as I only noted 4 high spots across the entire board.

I'm not particularly skilled at fret leveling but I've used your technique here to refret multiple guitars and they have come out perfect every time. I've learned more from your videos than any other youtube channel.

I never thought id be so fascinated to listen to a guy talking about thickness of his nut. Good stuff, great information.

@ssabp8313

4 жыл бұрын

@ my jizz ureye : I completely agree with you and IC would give me because I'm saying the same thing and I have said this before watching of the videos. It's amazing when you come to think about listening to these guys and the things that you've thought about and wondered if they were correct or if anybody else has thought about them and either it validates what you been thinking or a kind of Downs it either or just a whole idea of thinking about what goes on is it is it really is good for the brain seriously it could also drive you crazy. This little idea that little idea what if this what if that try this try that This worked that didn't work lots of head games Even if you never tried them and never will. It's the sort of stuff taken keep you up at night Or just simply occupy thoughts and energy that you might need for something else or even if you just put it away and don't think about it it always nags you At some point. Mad scientist delirium ha ha ha ....

Great vid, Chris. I combined your approach with Kent Everett's (Fret slots precisely milled to tang width except barbs, then hammer, and wick superglue) on my last build (I'm strictly an amateur) and had no problems with hammering nickel frets - 3 high spots in the whole board. Thanks very much.

This video will save me a ton of work! Doing my first build, making a replica of a fender j-bass and have learned a ton from your recent bass series, as well as from these one-offs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!

@HighlineGuitars

2 жыл бұрын

Glad I could help!

Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. I am in awe of your generosity!

@HighlineGuitars

3 жыл бұрын

You are so welcome!

I will be doing my first custom rebuild of an 80's Fender Strat neck-through I scalloped, and was thinking this very same Concept a few days ago, while preparing to install the frets - Your Awareness confirms my Understanding! Truth in Common Sense! Nice video... 🌎✌🌿🎶

Thank you for sharing. I agree with your method. I have built guitars using similar methods with great success. I have learned that it is important to clean fret slots before installing frets to avoid high spots. Another advantage to your method is that it decreases the chance of accidentally damaging a beautiful guitar with a metal file.

Great video! You are 100% on-the-money here. I use a similar method where I first slot the board, then radius it with a router/jig set up. Next, it's sanded dead flat using a long radius block, then I pre-radius the fret wire using a bender and press them in with a matching caul. The key, in my experience, is to use plenty of double sided tape to secure the board to a very flat surface such as the top of my tablesaw and use a jig or rails to control the sanding block as it must remain perfectly aligned with the fingerboard. If the prep work is done accurately the frets will be so close to level that they only need a bit of polishing. Thanks for the vid!

Love your videos mate always very true and informative, can't wait for next video of the floyd rose build! Have a great day mate

Yes, thank you! I’ve noticed over the years that leveled frets wear much quicker.. many have argued with me but it has to be due to surface hardening from the manufacture proses... The biggest key to me is leveling the fretboard prior to re-fretting... Also I hammer frets with a RUBBER MALLET glueing the ends and clamping ONE AT A TIME... However, this is how I get perfect fret Jobs on my bench on a good day... individual results may vary

I’ve noticed about the radius distortion to the eye also over the years. Nice. Thanks for explaining this.

When doing a refret, anyways oil your fretboard well, and give it time to soak in. This will enable you to pull the old frets out cleaner, without having to repair small chips. The oil also lubricates the fret itself, allowing it to glide out of the slot smoother and evenly.

Great info passed on to others,your experience's over the years can help other like minded folks save a bunch of time.(I,ve got two guitars needing re frets but just don't have the tools so we'll check out a local luthier and save botching a 63 st & 68 twelve fg230 which is almost unplayable) your confidence is inspiring my friend.....👍

I followed your advice and got great (to me) results. I went up and down the fret board with a rocker and tapped down any high frets until I couldn't detect anymore. I also adjusted the truss rod and installed a new bridge saddle. Even though I tapped the frets in with a hard plastic faced hammer the cheap old ($50 used - 20 years ago) Alvarez plays great - as good as a Taylor I recently acquired. Which was the goal. This is the second fret job that I have done on this same guitar - the first time (done pre youtube) I botched it 3 different ways including by grinding the tops all down. Nonetheless, I learned to play on it. You know what they say - try try again...

Great information and thinking outside the box, will be trying this out. Thank you!

Great video. You touch on a good point. What qualifies as workmanship/craftsmanship versus just rework ( one of the biggest forms of waste).

I'm not sure I'm sold on stainless steel frets yet, but I like the way you present your ideas and information. Nice video!

@Dreamdancer11

6 жыл бұрын

I have refretted all of my guitars myself with jumbo and super jumbo SS fretwire(jescar, preradiused to my boards).....apart from the fact that they are super slick, vibrato and bending wise, and ll most likely never need a fretjob at least in your lifetime,there is simply no difference in sound.......so basically its all pros no cons.

Thank you for this video! Very insightful! You are an inspiration!I learn a lot with your videos!

Re-watching this video, it still makes sense. I always felt like we should focus a lot more energy into making the fretboard as perfect as possible before installing frets. When I first learned, it felt more like « well, we’ll level the frets anyway… ». So amen to a good fretboard prep, stainless steel and fretting press! Your explanation of the apparent fretboard thickness makes sense, and that’s not easy to explain without any visual cues. I have always been seduced by compound radiuses, but with stainless steel fretwire, I wonder how to radius it perfectly in an efficient manner for each fret. That must be quite headache to solve… Maybe in case you make quite a lot of instrument you can make batches of fretwire of each fret position.

Fascinating insights. Thank you for sharing.

Thats how I levelled the frets on my first build , I didnt know about levelling in those days . It worked well also because the tension of the strings adds to the result . Also I found it best to work down the fret board ,ie towards the body from the head

Do you find that once you've brought the strings up to tension, that sometimes you need to tighten the truss rod?

Wish I'd have bought my pre radiused wire in stainless steel.... Would using a fretwire pressing caul with my nickel wire help with reducing dents and therefore minimise the need to do a full levelling?

as always you're full of great tips man

thanks for such a real video on that subject...like to see those fret ends get dealt with.

@ExNotesRec

7 жыл бұрын

yrulooknatme he already has a few older videos on how he does the ball end fret

@yrulooknatme

7 жыл бұрын

is that the best way to finish stainless fret ends? ty i'll checkemout

As the neck is wider at the base than at the end, the frets at the base are longer. Given that the frets have a constant radius, but at the base are longer, this results in those fretends having more total bend. As such the fretboardedge at the base has to be thinner than the fretboard edge at the end.

I have a question: Wen u ur adjusting nut n saddle for string height does the fretboard radius matter. U need more room for low e string than u do for high e because low e vibrates more. I think? N its just bigger than the high e. So now there r two measurements to consider. Three different heights for the high n low e the radius n the string height. Unless the bottom of the strings all follow the radius n that makes the low e higher just by virtue of its size. N y on some of my guitars i always know where the strings r in my picking hand n other guitars like the one im working on now, im constantly having to find the string or miss the string im trying to hit. It has to be string spacing at the saddle or the radius of the strings off the saddle doesnt match the radius of the fretboard. I have a mitchell that i never have any problem picking the right string everytime like it plays itself type of thing. If u can shed some light o this problem or direct me to a video that explains this problem id appreciate it. Ty.

Parker guitars are made this way but at higher level, they had graphite fretboard, perfectly leveled with perfect consistency, and then glued stainless steel frets :)

I understand exactly what your saying, the better I got at refretting the less leveling I did, you have to have a very level or radius fretboard and the frets have to be pressed in hammering has too much recoil, also getting the frets ends to seat is crucial.

I've learned that if I were to have to replace the frets, I would use fretwire size 6105 regardless if I had to do a fret leveling. But, I'm just now learning about all of this. Baby steps.

You could bind the fretboard to cover up the thickness discrepancy end to end and it looks good ? Thanks for the videos.

Great tips. It all comes down to how well you build the guitar in first place doesn't it? The better the prep, the less work to get everything right. Best money I ever spent was on a Stewmac fret press jig, makes fretting and refretting so much quicker and more consistent instead of hammering away.

Can you help me by any chance? I want to remove the lacquer finish from a neck a bought because it’s an awful plasticy looking finish and it’s too pale looking so I’m wanting to stain it and refinish it with a matte finish rather than super gloss..ANYWAY how can I remove the lacquer? I really don’t want to have to take the frets off and i would prefer not spend hours with a razor blade. Paint stripper maybe?

how about a completely flat fretboard like a classical guitar? do they make those on electric guitars? i would like to try one to see how it feels.

You rock! Thank you for all your videos.

What Stew Mac tool ate your thumb?

Cool! Thanks! Everything made perfect sense!

All my new guitars have stainless frets with semi-hemispherical ends. I've gone so far as to sell all my old guitars or have them changed to stainless frets. I recently had my brand new Epiphone Firebird frets redone this way and it now feels better than my old Gibson Firebird. I will probably sell it now.

Another reason for the edges of a fretboard to be thinner at the heel end (on a "store bought" neck at least) can be because the neck has a compound radius and due to lack of quality control when sanding the board, the builder fails to change the sanding block to a larger radius as he/she works his way down the neck. Sanding the heel end, which would have a larger radius, with the same block that was used in the middle or at the nut end where the radius is tighter, will remove considerably more material on the edges before it ever touches the center of the fretboard at the heel. However, I do completely agree with you that if frets are installed correctly in the beginning, very little and even zero leveling is entirely possible.

I was fretting with stainless steel fret wire in the 2000 already and I was the only one in Australia I think...no fret level needed with my fretting jobs..those were amazing frets..less buzzing and less strings wearing ,opposite of what one would think.

@mikeymike4g63

5 жыл бұрын

Could you elaborate on how it doesn't cause string wear? This is interesting, I've heard the opposite, that they accelerate string death

Thanks with all that guru tech I can now be on my way to becoming a rock star

It would be nice not to have to level. The evidence on how well the neck was made and frets pressed in is how much off the top that is actually removed. How do you polish your frets - what grit sandpapers and product or method for putting the final polish? Thanks! Glen

I radius my fretboards very carefully (router jig followed by Stew Mac aluminum leveling beam), then use an arbor press with Stew Mac cauls to press in Stainless fretwire like you, but I when I lay a straightedge over the tops of the frets, I always have one or two lower frets. Unfortunately because they are too low instead of too high, I need to do a whole fret level. Maybe I'm just pressing too hard??

I did a refret that was near perfect, then when the neck was under string tension and countering truss rod tension, the neck had that typical strat bump at the 15th, 16th, 17th frets so I had to do a slight fret level...pmo. I was learning though on a cheap neck. I leveled and radiused the fretboard, and checked the frets as I pressed them, if a fret was not perfectly level then I put more muscle into the drill press.

Great video! Very informative and accurate!

thank you for the video! very insightful.

Yeah it's a great workaround, for SS, because filing all the frets will take about 1 file as well. And you need expensive files, so. I'd have stainless steel fretwork done by a pro. I did my first fret leveling today. Worked out nice. Started on a cheap neck.

Exactly! I always said the same thing... Aren't you destroying your frets when sanding them? I also always thought that all guitar frets came level from the factory...NOT! Thank you for posting this.

I am certainly no luthier, although I have levelled my frets with somewhat decent results, but I agree it's a pain in the neck, especially the recrowning and polishing. I'd certainly avoid it all if possible. Another point in favour of your argument, is if one likes tall frets. I do. I don't want the frets to get lower.

Nicely put

Great explanation! Thank you!

Of course if you jazz it up (the fretboard)with 12 layers of binding, ala the Hofner guitars of the 50's, (yes, 12) then it ain't no thing. I'm wondering how to measure my frets to determine if I need a medium or a large fret crowner, if I go the diamond crowner route. Especially since the diamond crowner will probably last me years.

It was hard though, frets were already pretty low on this one. I did skim the wood a few times. At least they're level. And I polished and oiled the fingerboard after, so I don't think it will be a biggie

If you look at the heel of the neck from the "guitar" side and you look at the fretboard, just imagine cutting some material left and right to make it the same width as the nut. At those places where it's "nut wide", the fretboard is thick than at the edges of the heel. That's that thickness Chris is talking about.

+Highline Guitars Do you radius to an exact 12" radius or do you radius with the crown height added to get a 12" radius when you press them in? Cause neck radius + crown height is the final radius you're playing on. (Chip Todd pointed it out)

@onpsxmember

6 жыл бұрын

How dumb am I? Totally wrong context. No matter what you radius the fretwire, the additional height of the fret is the full radius. What I wanted to ask is if you bend all the SS fretwire to the exact radius of the fretboard or slightly overbend it?

Great video and a new subscriber. Reading the comments, I have to say that what you're talking about is a new build. Vintage stuff is another beast to tame. As for those looking to go on the cheap, go to guitar world. Serious players are willing to PAY!

Hallelujah brother. Finally a machinist approach. No more hammers please folks.

I only have one question. When you are doing precision work on a fret board do you make allowances for the thickness of the bandage on the thumb of your left hand? I would like to try doing what you do but I need some OCD. Do you have any left that you could sell me? A 5 gallon pail full should be enough to get me started. LOL

@seancurran6727

4 жыл бұрын

You need at least a gallon to mess with frets any which way.

Hi. I have a question. Recently i just removed a nickel silver frets out of my guitar. The frets were actually still very good, but after 4 years it produces sitar-like notes so i know that the frets are not level anymore. So i want to change to stainless steel. But i noticed that if i put like maximum force on the fret caul, some frets are lower than others, making fret filing inevitable. Do you put the frets with full force as well? Or do you put "different-but-enough" force for each one? Do you check the frets heights with a rocker everytime after you fret each slot? Im in need of people to show me the way.

@HighlineGuitars

3 жыл бұрын

The force is the same for every fret. The reason you have some frets lower is not because of using maximum force, it's because you have a fretboard with high and low spots. Level the board with a radius sanding block before you press the frets in.

I had a 1993 US standard Fender Blackie strat that was ruined because the shop owner recommended a fret level which was unnecessary since all it needed was simple set up, so he had some guy completely level the frets to half the height it originally came with, so really it felt very uncomfortable and worn out feel to the neck and I barely had it for a year till this day I still regretted to give permission for them to do that my first real good quality guitar

@fakiirification

6 жыл бұрын

If they took half the fret height down, they either let an absolute newb do the job with way too much force on the beam. Or the frets were way out of level and it did need a level. Though i do hear you about aggressive sales pitches in shops pushing products you don't need that end up doing more harm than good.

Now I'm using my Cnc Machine which I paid a nice buck for. In the past of course I did this by hand Which took incredible focus attention ( agsin another story to go wow about )

I favor one piece Fender maple necks over RW. The 88 MIJ Strat I have around my neck has never given me problems and the frets are still beautiful. The luthier who refretted my 1957 P bass knows what he is doing and didn't level them.

Thank you for this video!

I have a new CNC machine and would like to do fretboards on it. I have not found tooling for the fret slots. Would you please offer a source?

@ccustoms5733

6 жыл бұрын

nl.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-5pcs-0-6mm-Micro-Grain-Tungsten-Carbide-End-Mill-2-flutes-HRC55-CNC-Milling/2037305989.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.BsJ4ZN I use these mills. The 0.5mm version to make 0.55mm wide slots. Be careful with your speeds. I use them at max RPM (24000 in my case) and about 500mm/min feed. I wouldn't recommend doing more than 1mm depth per pass. Got a video on facebook. Turn down your volume before you open it. I didn't take the time yet to figure out how to edit my video's. Too busy learning how to build guitars. facebook.com/CSharpCustoms/videos/425628767838967/ Give me a like on facebook if you find my info useful ;-) Best regards from the Netherlands

I installed some EVO frets in between nickel silver and stainless on a vintage japanese guitar. I bought a drill press and the radius caul to push pre radiused wire into the slota, and like you said, it came out very level. Maybe it was beginners luck, but I decided to leave it since I didn't have a crowing file or beam yet. It actually plays better than my other two guitars. The only thing wrong with it was someone had added shims at the front and back of the neck pocket as well as using electrical tape folded. I experimented some more to get a good back angle and made my own shim out of a moth repelling cedar block. That guitar is now my favorite and easiest to play. So I can definitely vouch for what you say. My guitar isn't perfect, but came out better than my other three guitars that I do need slight tweaks here and there. I have a crowning file and will be getting a beam next month. Will be interesting to see how true to level the guitar really is. I'm sure it's not perfect, but it does allow a lower action than is actually comfortable without buz or dead spots.

@thromboid

6 жыл бұрын

Nice work! I'll be trying the press technique too now. I've always wondered about the use of neck shims (at least front-back tilt ones) - how is the adjustment different from changing the string height at the bridge?

@instrumentalist28

6 жыл бұрын

if u can get low action without buzz or dead notes, it seems perfect to me

Hi, you said hammering nickel silver frets puts dents in them and then jumped to SS frets and an arbor press. What about using the arbor press to seat nickel silver frets?

@floydsmoot9387

Жыл бұрын

… to avoid dents

@HighlineGuitars

Жыл бұрын

Goes without saying.

Excellent advice, thanks

great advice Chris

This is awesome and informative :).. Subbed.

thanks for a great video........where did you learn how to program your cnc machine. thats a mystery where i live

@timdodd160

6 жыл бұрын

Learning to use a CNC machine is quite a challenge. As a retired engineer with advanced software skills, it has taken me about a year to be productive with the machine. I use Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM as well as writing G code manually. Once you are proficient on the CNC, it doesn’t seem to save any time over hand methods, but it does allow making more complex and precise objects. Peghead inlay is probably the best example, I have neither the skills or inclination to do complex inlay work, the CNC makes quick work of it after a large investment learning software and operating the machine.

If you could monitor the pressure you're applying when you're inserting the fret wire into the fretboard you can pretty much as you say get the frets perfectly level. As long as the fretboard is level.

@joesharpe7685

2 жыл бұрын

If we're speaking in terms of ultimate precision, surely the difference in grain of the fingerboard could mean some frets require more/less pressure for an equal seating however, ultimately with wood there's only so far you can mechanise and objectively measure it.

I have a specific question: So I've done only a few refrets in my life (7-8) - both on my own and on my friends' guitars. On one occasion I was refretting a very dense and hard maple neck. I should probably have widened the fret slots eversoslightly, but I thought removing rests of glue, sawdust/debris would be enough. What happened was that the new frets were perhaps sligly thicker at the "stem" and forced the neck into a slight backbow. Now I was lucky.. stringing her up with .10s countered this and I got a pretty astoundingly straight neck (with everso slightly let-off), because relaxing the trussrod had pretty much no effect from the set-off, as this neck was already pretty straight. I have a similar neck on a tele that is also naturally dead straight - even 35 years of string pull has not pulled the neck into much of a relief, which means I have no tension on the truss rod at all. It is now in need of new frets and I am afraid the same situation will occur but that this time I will end up with a backbow with no way of loosening the truss to acquire relief, and that 'natural' string pull wont be enough.. My question is: Is there a way to add relief to a neck that is already straight (with a loose trussrod)? How do I go about this? Any tricks? I am afraid to force the neck into relief and not sure how to do it? Are there special tools?

@HighlineGuitars

Жыл бұрын

No.

Would you sell me one of your long radius blocks for fret leveling?

When I was first dealing with the Gentleman who started Musikraft about 25 yeas ago (when you could call and actually talk to the owner) he guaranteed me that his necks would be perfect with no need to do a fret leveling

Back in the old days when I was building a couple of 100 guitars ( not 10 , 20 , 30 a couple of hundred , when i was a human guitsr factory lol . I love hearing Some these guitar builders , luthiers And the things that they do and the things they have done . If its not the arsenal of tools , cutom tweaked or straight out bought its the skill and the ease ehich they do things it is a huge accomplishment . The years of knowledge and diddling with this that the other different woods glues paints Additives metals measurements overall ideas ).

Do you think this technique can be extended to a multi scale instrument?

@HighlineGuitars

3 жыл бұрын

No. You would need a separate fret press insert for each fret. You’ll have to pound the frets in and if you’re good at it, you may get lucky. But don’t count on it.

My router radius jig already does this, the heel end is slightly higher

What your trying to say at about 10:10 (re thickness of the fretboard after radiusing) is that the arc of the radius subtended by the edges of the fret board (before radiusing) is longer near that bridge than at the nut because of the difference in width, therefore the angle at which the radius intersects the edge of the fretboard (before radiusing is more acute. I think. That's clear right?

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

Bingo!

@artheen4713

6 жыл бұрын

It's also one reason why some people like a compound radius (apart from easier bending / lower action) - the angle at the edge of the fretboard can remain the same, so muscle memory allegedly works better.

@jamesholmberg3158

5 жыл бұрын

Clear as mud!

I believe that a compound radius is the way to go for all necks these days. For me, it just seems more comfortable (my opinion). Going from handmade to CNC isn't easy, but with a little time it can be accomplished. Also, if done right the first time, little adjustments will be needed later.

@onpsxmember

6 жыл бұрын

But you have to bend the fretwire piece by piece when it changes in radius to perfectly fit the neck...at least with stainless steel. That's a lot of extra work and it's much easier to radius a larger piece than the small bits.

Since the radius changes from fret to fret on a compound radius fret board, how would you match this with the fret wire? Would you need to bend each fret individually? Or does the use of SS wire make compound radius fret boards impossible or at least impractical?

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

If you press the frets in with some CA glue, they'll conform to the shape of the fretboard and stay there.

@davidfox363

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

I'm working on making my first guitar and I was wondering why leveling frets on a new guitar was necessary. Are you saying it's because of inconsistencies in the shaping of the fingerboard (and possibly hammering softer frets, like nickel) and if you can get rid of those by using a CNC machine and stainless steel frets with an arbor press that there will be close to no levelling required? This makes sense to me.

@bobbys4327

3 жыл бұрын

Remember wood will move and is not all the same hardness through out the fretboard. A fret can be pressed in more in a soft area than a hard area. But diligence as he has explained will make a difference in your amount of work involved.

I'm with Chris in that I absolutely HATE having to level and crown guitars. I almost always just opt for a complete refret. It's an incredibly valuable skill to have, although I do understand not everyone will be capable of doing it. But the fact of the matter is that if you're building a guitar or installing new frets, there shouldn't be any reason to have to level. The key is preparation, obviously. Ensuring the board is level is really 90% of it. That means having good tools, using proper technique on the fingerboard (sanding a perfect radius), carving a nut according to the fret height (as opposed to the other way around), and never taking a hammer to the frets.

@joesharpe7685

2 жыл бұрын

Fall away is tremendously under appreciated, especially on low radius boards, 9.5/7.25, yes you can get away without levelling (I've done it before to great results) but fallaway cannot be understated and I see no one mentioning it here

@LeviBulger

2 жыл бұрын

@@joesharpe7685 it's much more important on bolt on necks IMO. Most Gibsons and the like tend not to really need it as much. When I refret a Fender, I actually sand down the last few inches of the board a bit lower after leveling everything. It allows me to get away with not having to do fall away on the frets themselves. But if I'm doing a regular leveling and crowning, I almost always do some fall away unless I'm told not to. I know there can be issues with pitch and intonation if not done properly, but I personally think it's a good thing more often than not.

Any issues with back bow after pressing the frets in?? Maybe the slots too tight and after pressing in 20 odd frets, the surface of the fingerboard is bowed up... and the truss rod can't correct, and the string tension probably won't either. What cutter do you use to slot the fingerboard?

@HighlineGuitars

4 жыл бұрын

I cut my slots slightly wide with a .024" 2 flute spiral upcut bit so there is no issue of backbow. The frets are glued in with water-thin CA glue.

@joem6859

4 жыл бұрын

@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the reply... Precision Bits?? What feed rate do you use with that small of a bit? Just curious

@HighlineGuitars

4 жыл бұрын

@@joem6859 20ipm, .01" DOC. www.ebay.com/itm/5-73-0240-2-FLUTE-MICRO-CARBIDE-ENDMILLS-LONG-FLUTE/151008250845?hash=item2328cb0bdd:g:Y-4AAOxy7rdREJQT

@joem6859

4 жыл бұрын

@@HighlineGuitars thank you Chris, very nice of you to share with me

I'm waiting on a custom tele neck I had made. The luthier had problems installing ss frets so I'll be doing it, as well as adding a decal, string tree & nut. Guess I'll be checking radius, slots etc...

@TheAxe4Ever

4 жыл бұрын

It sounds like he just didn’t want to be bothered by taking the little extra time needed to install ss frets. Someone that calls themselves a luthier should have no problem installing ss frets. I am certainly no luthier but I installed a set on my old guitar and it came out great. I just took my time with the job.

Great tips, thank you..

I love your videos. As a machinist I couldn’t figure out why people have to do so much leveling. I just got a feet arbor press. Love it. Thanks!

Have you ever tried taking a piece of narrow brass bar and toffee hammer and hitting a fret at the exact high point on a fret? I have done this lots of times on annoying high spots and it works a treat.

@noseyparker6622

6 жыл бұрын

Anyways.....nice talking to ya.

Hi. To my way of thinking the fbd sides MUST be thicker at the nut end simply because these sides are closer to the middle of the fbd which is always thicker than the sides for any given fret along the fbd. Think about it. And so, if you try to make them equal to the heel thicknesses the fretboard will not be uniform. And that will bring up new problems in setting the action and fret buzzes. I leave room for mistakes in my thinking... but I would be very careful with this.

Can I ask a somewhat-related question? After carving the backshape on the neck, how long do you wait for the wood to stabilize before truing the fretboard and installing the frets?

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

About 4 weeks.

@martymcfly002

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the reply - that's interesting. I've seen a video where John Suhr says the same thing. Some builders though even recommend fretting the neck while the back is still square, so the complete opposite..

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

Think of it this way, if you fret the neck while the back is still square, what happens if you make a mistake shaping the contour or discover a flaw in the wood? You would loose everything. The neck shaft. The truss rod. The fretboard. Any inlay work. Your fret wire. I make the neck and fretboard (sans the fret wire) separately and bring them together with the truss rod when I’m satisfied they are both perfect. That way if there’s an issue, only one part is lost. After joining them together, I’ll do the final sanding, apply whatever finish I want and let it sit a few weeks before installing the frets. Also, when someone tells you a neck should rest to stabilize, ask them how they measure the stability. Hint: they don’t. There is no measurement. It’s just something they made up. LOL.

If the fret wire is consistent and installed evenly then you should have perfectly level frets off the bat. Just got a warmoth neck with stainless steel frets 6100 frets and they’re perfectly level right out of the box.

Love it brother

@HighlineGuitars

2 жыл бұрын

Glad to hear it!

Hi Chris, Would you be so kind to share how you would do a compound radius fretboard? I can CNC the compound radius, but some sanding is always needed. How do you sand it without losing the accuracy of your work? Also, could you tell me what kind of mill you use for milling the fretboard? I assume a large radius mill would be best. Any advice on that?

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

I use a .125" two flute spiral upcut bit to rough cut the radius. Then I follow with a .125" flute spiral downcut bit for the finish cut. The result is so smooth, I can sand with 400 grit and finish with 800 grit. At those grits, you'd really have to try hard to alter the radius.

@ccustoms5733

6 жыл бұрын

Wow, that's not a technique I was familiar with. Using a downcut bit is new to me. Very interesting. So it is just a flat end mill then? Would you share what step over you use for the finishing? And how much roughing clearance is left before you start the finishing operation? Optimizing for a better surface quality could really save me a lot of time, so your expertise can help me a lot. Best regards from the Netherlands!

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

For the rough cut, I leave .015" of stock. The stepover for the finish is .02". In truth, you can use an upcut bit for both passes. I have a downcut, so I use it because it's supposed to leave a cleaner cut on the surface. I've done it both ways and can't say it really matters.

@ccustoms5733

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks a lot. If I can help you with anything, let me know. Maybe you'd like to use an Excel file I've built to automatically create the g-code for cutting of the fret slots (in a 5-segment "radius"). You can enter radius at the nut, and radius at the 12th fret as well as the width at those positions. And a whole bunch of other parameters. It's very useful to me, I can imagine it to be useful to you as well. Send me a message via my website (www.c-sharpcustoms.com) if you'd like to receive it for personal use.

Interesting but what about the backbow that can be generated by the fret tangs pushing the fretboard material inside each slot ? How do take this effect into account ? The parameters I understand being Width of the slot, width of the tangs/barbs, fiberboard material hardness and flexibility.

@HighlineGuitars

6 жыл бұрын

I use high grade quartersawn wood and high-quality wood glue so this effect you speak of is of no consequence.

@bzbcustoms4520

5 жыл бұрын

that happens when your working on older 50 guitars stratocaster and such just make sure u have the same thickness on the tang and your fine