Use code PERKINS50 to get 50% off your first Factor box at bit.ly/3yx7XU4

@sunbloodtruthseeker3734

10 ай бұрын

The Perkins pressure wipes! Thank me later

@paidinfullmotorsports4681

9 ай бұрын

My son ordered me one for my birthday, it showed backordered for over a month then all of a sudden when checking on the status showed it as delivered weeks prior ( had been checking status twice a week ) don’t know what happened but never received anything either it was never delivered or it was somehow stolen . I’m the end no belt and suspenders and out $300. As much I want one I’m torn because of the bad taste in my mouth from the first one !

@alex-jr9qh

9 ай бұрын

Hurry I need another video from you

@usunited5756

7 ай бұрын

I enjoy watching you guys. It brings back memories. Thanks. We used to call that kind of shovel a sharpshooter.

My 3 year old has got into watching these videos with me, which is a fun way for us to spend time together! I don’t know if you take requests but he wants you guys to build a skyscraper for the next series? 😂

@marcusperry8622

10 ай бұрын

My 1 year old loves watching these with me on the tv too!

@carolscott5903

10 ай бұрын

Bob the builder

@erichaines5518

10 ай бұрын

lol, yes! that's a great idea.

@trentonsaylor3932

10 ай бұрын

Come on Jamie, do it for the 3 year olds watching!!

@patientgrace

9 ай бұрын

​@@trentonsaylor3932and the not-so-3-year-olds. 🤣🤣🤣

Eric makes sure everything goes smoothly and Jamie makes sure everything goes correctly. Perfect combination. And Jason makes sure something gets done.

@johnscott2076

10 ай бұрын

Then Arlo gets it done

@ronankelly4471

2 ай бұрын

And Ray! Quiet, but works away in the background. Don't forget him.

The shovel being used to cut the notches into the sidewalls for the bulkheads is a Drain Spade Shovel, we enjoy your crew as well as the channel.

I just think it's amazing that you go from clearing the ground, foundations and on up to the roof. So many skills involved 😊

@needaman66

10 ай бұрын

Its called building. That's what all builders do

@sdtok527

10 ай бұрын

​​@@needaman66​not necessarily, some people specialize. Just like how the Perkins generally like to outsource the drywall since those guys work so fast.

@needaman66

10 ай бұрын

@@sdtok527 small to medium do. Larger contract 90%. Small do 90%. I've only been in the game 40 years.

Its so great to see Arlo working side by side with the crew.

I never dreamed all those beautiful mountain side homes are difficult and complex from the ground up. It was great to see that Ray has great insurance that pays for the latest in care for diabetics, WAY TOO GO Perkins Brothers taking good care of the guys. Get them, your insurance providers, to sponsor a video so the rest of the small contractors can follow suit.

@markdalton55

8 ай бұрын

That’s a great idea!

i think you should keep a couple of paving stone mini slab forms on hand for the extra concrete, the homeowner or yourselves can use them to make a walkway or to put plants on. you could also make concrete planters i suppose.

Here in Texas we call the long slender shovel a sharpshooter. My family consists of 4 generations of pipeliners and they are used just as much as your standard shovel. Ever since I was a little boy they were called sharpshooters. I love the show

@PolarBear26j

9 ай бұрын

Yep...or used to just call it a shooter. Best shovel imaginable. So many uses.

In Germany code does not allow for rebar to be placed into the ground for exactly the reason you mention. The rebar will rost, water will get into the concrete and there is a danger that during winter the water in the concrete will freeze and thus expand and eventually destroy the concrete. Also here much more rebar is used when building with concrete and the foundation is at least 80cm into the ground.

@LordPubeck

10 ай бұрын

The 'code' in Europe is very different for buildings, but maybe it's different for a wooden frame house?!

@SebastianKlingk

10 ай бұрын

Amerikanischer Häuserbau ist auch mehr ein Gebastel und Gepfusche.

@loumalibu5596

10 ай бұрын

frost line in germany is deeper also, which explains at least the depth of the foundation

@markdoumert

10 ай бұрын

Yes. The grade pin method they use is pretty old school, in my area of the country there are lots of older homes that are built on a slab and have had issues with the rebar blowing out the sides of the slab due to water intrusion. I never let my bar touch dirt for that reason, and i dont use grade pins. A simple solution is to drive nails into the side of the embankment at grade and place up to the nails. Alternately just use a laser and screed it flat off of wet pads that are shot in during placement. Another way is to make a wood template for your j bars, level it at a known elevation above top of footing and measure down

@davidfifth6109

10 ай бұрын

Good or bad, you can drive rebar into the ground here and it's compliant. But the rebar must be held above grade otherwise it's mostly pointless.

Yes they’re going to rust sooner than you hope. All you have to do is mark center of wall on your bulkheads, toenail a horizontal 2x to the bulkheads at your mark, and tie wire your J bars to the 2x4. No welding, no spray paint, no sledge hammers, no rusting.

@ryan-ee4fd

10 ай бұрын

It’s called a rebar template and everyone uses them. You just have to get a real roll of tie wire and some real lineman’s pliers and saddle tie the rebar to the board.

In the Seattle area rebar cannot touch earth. I believe you need to keep the steel 3"minimum from earth contact. We get a lot of rain in this area so maybe that's why the code is written that way.

@noway5683

9 ай бұрын

I believe Massachusetts is same way has to be in middle floating like

You are probably correct that it would take 50+ years to rust the bar enough that it will break or be structurally insufficient, but the real problem is that it's against code to have rebar in contact that goes into walls or footings. This would include the L bars and your grade stakes. You would probably be safe using fiberglass rebar and wire tying the Lbars and just using fiberglass bar for grade stakes. The bigger problem than the bar rusting is the rust expands which put pressure on the concrete and cracks it. Cracked concrete is no longer structural.. The main reason concrete fails is this, rusting concrete. Look at say the coliseum in Greece it's still mostly standing after a lot of years. Why? Because it doesn't have rebar in it. They relied on thicker concrete to do the job we can do with thinner concrete and rebar, but the rebar will eventually fail. Solution would be fiberglass or other composite rebar. Good luck on that even if your inspector passes you. I'd never do it. We always tie the L bars to the horizontal bars. You could bend that piece you welded 90 degrees to the other bend so you have a more area to tie to other bars. I believe welding rebar is OK I've seen it done even on commercial jobs. All you are really doing is holding the 2 pieces together till the concrete cures and that is where the strength is.

@sanisidrocr

10 ай бұрын

100% agree.. whats worse is that its such an easy fix that requires little effort. Either make the leveling stakes temporary or use fiberglass stakes . This is a situation where someone is building a house to last 50 years instead of 100+ years and for a foundation that can be reused after a demo is a real shame

we in the Netherlands maintain a minimum of 3.5 cm coverage around the concrete. as soon as your steel starts to rust, you get concrete rot, rust expands, causing your concrete to crack

13:44 - My metric mind is overwhelmed with all the unit conversions :) Love yours videos.

@RandysRides

10 ай бұрын

hahaha !! Yup...metric is so much easier. I've always wondered why the States hasn't gotten on board.

@-_James_-

10 ай бұрын

@@RandysRides Officially the US is a metric country. Everything NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology) does, for example, is done in metric and they produce conversion tables for Americans to use. Quite a lot of things in daily life are measured using metric already, and I guess that's slowly increasing. Give them another 150 years and they'll be fully metric.

I hope you guys make a video where you can talk to each crew member and hear their origin story (how they got started) - Also love seeing Arlo - He reminds me of my uncle who also is a carpenter. Love the channel!!!

The rebar/rust issue isn't related so much to the rebar vanishing as much as it is to when the rebar starts to rust it will pop the concrete. Prob shouldn't put unprotected rebar into soil. Use the green, epoxy-coated.I would guess ansi standards have something to say about it.

@thisisnotmyname91

9 ай бұрын

Epoxy coated rebar is being used less and less due to reliance on the fragile coating for it to be effective.

If you ever get a code violation with the hooks the other way to hang them prior to pour is setting down boards and then nail on 2x4s running down the length of the footing where you want them and tie them on with tie wire. In NV we have to have 3” clearance to earth with our bar and 2” clearance to form work

They used rebar at the dorm i lived at. And after 30 years the rust showed at the footings and it got critical at 40 years, so the concrete peeled off. They had to chip a lot away, remove the rust and put new concrete on.

Here in Texas that trenching shovel is called a "sharp shooter" and used a lot in landscaping for small holes and cleaning up margins to get clean vertical sides.

@hollismorgan1399

10 ай бұрын

That’s what we call them in alabama too. We use them in wastewater industry to help open manholes.

@patrickrussell1888

10 ай бұрын

Just called a spade shovel in the Northwest; most of us landscapers dig holes twice or thrice the diameter of the plant's rootball, though when dealing with compacted or disturbed soils. The site in question is heavy clay/some rock and needs a decent hole for the rootball of any ornamentals or native plants.

Wow that lower block wall is going to be tall... Hopefully there is a plan to utilize that lower space for utility/hvac space! No reason to have hvac on the ground floor with all that space

Dont take this the wrong way but i really like how the entire team is petty..you all can laugh all day while working and getting things done!!

In my youth, we referred to those "sharpshooter" spades as tile spades. I believe the name is related to the width/diameter of tiles that were used in wastewater drains back in the day. dw

I got a lump in my throat watching this video. Let me try to explain why it was so meaningful to me. For 40 years my wife and I built new and rehabed existing properties. (23 total) And I always enjoyed the four thought and the planning that you described so well the last 2 videos. Even though it gave me many sleepless nights. It just meant a real lot to me to hear someone put it into words and see them draw it out on cardboard also.😂Thank you

Hi guys, love the content. In regards to the rebar welding and rusting; The problem isn't the rust damaging the rebar. The problem is the rust damaging the concrete, creating cracks and allowing water into it, creating even more damage, which weakens the concrete. In regards to welding rebars. The reason for not welding your rebars, is that it doesn't allow the rebar to "move" freely. Just like wood, concrete and steel expand and shrink, at different rates. Over time the tie down on the rebars break and allows the rebars to "move". When you weld the rebars together and that welding doesn't break, it creates pressure that will crack the concrete.

@alkemaatje

9 ай бұрын

Won’t the grade pegs rust and damage the concrete too?

@hiiamhi.23

9 ай бұрын

@@alkemaatje Yeah, rebar should never be sticking out the concrete. In Australia for example, rebar must not be less than 50mm covered in concrete and if you are close to the sea, it must be 70mm into the concrete (because of the salt in the water, which helps rust things faster)

@alkemaatje

9 ай бұрын

@@hiiamhi.23 So, replacing the rebar grade pega with wooden sticks for the hight would fix that? Just relating to my own project, sorry :)

@hiiamhi.23

9 ай бұрын

@@alkemaatje All good. Wood wouldn't work either, since wood will eventually rot, leaving a hole for moisture to get in (wood would also have moisture in it). From the top of my head, maybe you could use some thick plastic rods if they are available. Plastic takes hundreds (thousands?) of years to decompose. The works I have done here are usually with formwork (timber around the foundation) that we level, and then we follow that formwork/timber when we pour the concrete, which then gets removed after a few days.

Hey guys, we used to have forms for pier blocks ready for any extra concrete so it didn’t go to waist.

@Ugly_German_Truths

10 ай бұрын

At other builds they did that too, they might not do anything that needs such a pier here?

@patrickrussell1888

10 ай бұрын

Any decking on the exterior of the structure?

Soggy Mountain Breakdown?Good to see Ray taking care of his health.

I wonder if you could fly the drone and take a picture from above and then measure the diagonals on the picture?

I'd always overshoot concrete and just dig a few 16" cube molds in the ground. Worst case, you've got some weights to hold down sheet goods until you eventually use them as fill or stair footings for a future deck project.

About the tool belt - I’m happy to hear the straps have been upgraded. I’ll be replacing the shoulder part as soon as that’s available. I have to say getting rid of the metal tool hooks may not be a great idea. I use them constantly for impact drivers, drills, drywall zip tool etc.

We always have 2-inch wood screwed together in 12x16 and other sizes of pavers and use all the extra concrete, if any. Everybody needs pavers and we often make an AC pad form. Sometimes there is very little left over, but sometimes there is some so be ready for the extra.

Watching you guys is so entertaining, I never understand why the tv shows with builders/construction have to have so much stupid drama. I’d rather watch a show with good times like these, day in and day out. Keep up the great work

The rebar all needs to be connected and you need to leave a bonding connection for electrical. It's been in the electrical code for like 20 years.

I have heard that shovel called a tile spade because of the rounded shape so the tile would stay centered and inline. Love the videos thank you from Colorado for now

@baldy4997

10 ай бұрын

I have a shovel almost like it (same size, same handle, sharp to cut roots, but square corners instead of rounded) that I believe is called a transplanting shovel.

Hey guys, nice video - as always! Regarding the reinforcement, it isn't allowed to have any reinforcement or steel whatsoever in the cover (usually about 30mm/1"1/4" for residential construction). This is due to the fact - as you mentioned - the steel will rust and deteriorate the concrete around it and will cause it to spall. In this case though, the steel is protruding through the cover as it is not a bar parallel to the surface of the cover. Therefore the problem will be a lot less, only the concrete around the stake will be affected but the effects will be limited. Your other question was related to the welding to (structural) reinforcement. Usually this isn't allowed, however it can only affect the structural integrity if the loads on the structure are dynamic (repetitive). In this case your main load case is a soil load which is not repetitive (I hope it's not). Thanks for the effort put in the videos and keep up the good work!

I would think you could clean up posts with that shovel too. I wish I could remember what my Daddy used to call it. We dug waterline ditches with that too.

Perkins and breakfast, love sunday mornings😂

On my crews we called that shovel a Sharpshooter, the trenching shovel, for us, was about 4" wide with maybe a 30deg kick on it.

Gonna have to watch this again with my 9 year old diabada$s. Love the quick dex highlight. Gotta secure it! I'm surprised it works on his hulky arms. 🎉❤😂

My grandfather always called the long skinny blade shovel a sharpshooter. I think Jaime was right about the trenching moniker, because nobody at Home Depot new what a "sharpshooter" was......

Interesting post, the analogy to locks was very good. I used to live near the Caen Locks in Wiltshire, UK. The stairs consist of 14 locks which if you stand at the bottom of the hill looking up, makes an amazing view of the locks all in line. The calculations for cement and blocks is slightly arbitrary, but your expertise in building homes has the last say. Looking forward to the pour and seeing the house coming to life, a bit like Frankenstein's monster I suppose. Take care and see you soon 🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨

As you like woodpack, Yes i also love shed thanks for your sharing with us

UK viewer here. Love watching you guys. I can see your all like an extended family. Great to see. Like others have said it's nice to see you guys do the whole job together till the end. I've only ever worked for two builders that did the same were others sub out the test of the work. I've also Subscribed to Building Jay’s Way. 🙂Keep the video's coming guys.

build some block molds, put any concrete overage in them and make you some cement blocks that just might come in handy later.....

Just ordered my Perkins Belt. I am concerned that the magnetic bit holder is missing. I have a couple I ordered from Fast Cap, so I will figure out how to attach to the suspenders. You guys are amazing, by the way. I love the different dynamic everyone brings to your team...

@Leonidimus59

10 ай бұрын

I'm disappointed they removed both the magnetic bit holder and the earpro pouch. These 2 features differentiated them from other belt/suspenders systems. I decided not to buy the new belt version because of this

As a structural engineer, to answer your rebar questions: Standard A615 rebar is susceptible to cracking at the welds and is not generally acceptable for welding. A706 grade rebar, however, is acceptable for welded applications. In this shear application, I wouldn't be overly concerned because if it cracks at the weld: you still have 4" of concrete resisting the movement of the pin. However, if I had to stamp the design, I'd probably advise you to either tie the bars together or source the A706 material. As for rebar sticking out of the bottom of your footings, I wouldn't be overly concerned. Rust takes three things: iron, water, and oxygen. There isn't a whole lot of oxygen in the ground so the rusting process is going to take a VERY long time, likely longer than the building's lifespan, so it is probably not going to be an adverse factor in the building's life. Again, my official answer should be to use some kind of composite or plastic chair, but the reality is it is likely overkill.

Those are mild steel bars, not high-tensile steel, and the steel should not be in contact with the soil. The steel rusts much quicker than you think.

Curious if you guys mentioned to the owner or suggested digging out/flattering the ground for a flat pour foundation to give a basement/storage as it's such a tiny footprint house?

@florichi

10 ай бұрын

Plus it couldn't have cost a lot more. In Austria if you have to build on a slope a basement is the norm, because a normal slab is like 40k for 70qm and a basement is 20k more.

If your concerned about rust you could try galvanised steel, and to further proof your steel you could blackjack the steel which is pretty much just bitumen paint

You could use green bar like they use for bridge construction

This will probably be explained in the future, but I wonder why the house was not built on columns? Seems like it would be easier than doing so much block

I love watching you guys. Thanks for making this channel.

A lot of great information.Takes years to get all this expertise.Thank you for sharing.

Representing the trumpet notification! Every one of my coworkers have never heard that notification and are always surprised 😯😯 when they hear it form my phone

Oh , the degree of difficulty in this project is a challenge, I’m loving the different grade levels, and not a single duplex in sight 🍺💥🎉👍

i cant wait to see the block work. this is a cool foundation.

Great business strategy on the belts. Also really glad to see a sloped build like this. If I ever build on my property it's going to be something similar with that foundation.

Oh My Garsh, you guys are so funny, love it.

We weld rebar all the time. We also set our bolts ahead and are inspected before we pour

This is so interesting - love following y’all. Totally amazing see how the process goes

It is amazing watching how y'all work together and in the end an awesome job. Love watching these videos.

I like to say that concrete "uses" its cover. When concrete is poured and set it has a high ph(11-13) and a oxide layer around the rebar. As times go by co2 penetrates the concrete, lowering the ph, its called carbonation. The carbonation front has a ph of 9.5, when this reaches the rebar the oxidation film disappears. Making the rebar more susceptible to rusting. This process moves thru the concrete some mm (metric) a decade. So having rebar open to the elements basically means you have lost before you even started..

Talented group of guys. Keep up the great work and videos.

Best building channel out there, looks like another great series.

The “trenching tool” is known as a sharpshooter in my part of the world - Texas.

Happy Sunday y’all❤

Very creative time saving method for for the footing form stepdowns maybe a center stake driven vertically as added security, blowouts are a disaster that the review of any blowout situation always has the word dumb/stupid somewhere in the first sentence. Exposed un-encapsulated rebar rust rate is about 1" per year in normal climate and spalling can move even faster because spalling cracks open ahead of rust which is eight times the volume of unrusted steel. I agree the trenching on uneven ground is quite good for someone who is not a fulltime equipment operator. Ray

The rebar should be fine as long as there is no water incursion into the slab itself.

What great, fun, professional crew.

I have really enjoyed watching all your shows.

In Texas we call that a Spade shovel.

We call those types of shovels,sharp shooters.they are great for chipping clay and cutting roots.

Pretty impressive rebar work y'all. Just don't tell Jason, his head is already big enough.

Good Job guys,

Gotta love Arlo!

When you have leftover concrete, it's nice to pour property corner/boundary markers. There is no reason for them to be formed up, plumbed or level as long as the rebar that extends upward, through them, precisely identifies the legally surveyed corners/boundaries and do not interfere with the construction process. "Rebar exposed in soil will disintegrate at a corrosion rate of 0.1µ per year, it will take 31,750 years to reduce the diameter of a #5 rebar from 5/8 inch to 1/2 inch, and 158,750 years to corrode it down to nothing." 😁

It definitely doesn't take 100 years for rebar to rust, it obviously mainly depends on location, but if you get alot of rain it could be gone in less than 50, and the primary problem of rebar in concrete isn't nessasarily the rusting away but the warping and bloating of the rebar that then begins to crack the concrete and create voids for water to sit in.

Awesome job fellas! 😃👍🏼👊🏼

I call the shovel a tile spade, as in clay tile or sewer tile/pipe

Watching you guys built house from ground up makes me feel like I'm qualified builder!

A Interesting Projekt! Gladden my of the next Videos. How the Building progressive is to see. 😊

Love your content, for some reason your videos haven't been showing up lately so I had to search for you guys. You guys make every job interesting.

Nice Jamie!! Good job with the foundation on this one. In that climate you are right that bar will take hundreds of years.

you have no idea how much i love you guys 🤩🤩

Finally got a belt ordered! 🎉

Jamie I am engineer at a rebar factory and produce many grades and sizes of rebar. True weldable rebar has a W marking versus a S marking(this is what you have). Some producer do use a water quench and welding could weaken the bar, for what you are doing I think it is fine. I am more concerned about corrosion creeping up, you could paint the lower part with epoxy to help with corrosion. If you would like more detail send me a message and I would be happy to talk in detail. Love the video's!

This is so good I even come to watch it twice!!

Quality footing work

Great guys

great video as always, guys. love the explanations on everything. :)

Saw Arlo using a Hart Woody Hammer. I use one of those, now I feel cool.

after what happened the last time Ray jumped off something I'm surprised you were that calm about them on the table.

I like the jump cut from talking about shart-dines to bulkheads; the two go hand in hand.

As for driven/buried rebar, I've always been against it and have been told that it promotes metal deterioration. After looking it up, some circles say it could several hundred years before it will be an issue. However, wire mesh is less than a decade. Me being me, I'd either use a little ZIP Tape or paint on the driven portion. The driving would scrape and expose a little steel, but not near as much. But that's me and I overdo EVERYTHING.

I can’t imagine digging that foundation in, up on the mountain like the one series, can’t remember which build it was!

Would you ever build a house on a section like that using piles instead of digging footings like you have here?

@patrickrussell1888

10 ай бұрын

The hillside must be pretty stable, though there looks to be a lot of clay. Proper drainage is key so as not to allow water to pond uphill.

I’ve always used the claw side of the hammer to cut the sides down on the ditches for the bulkheads. Quick and simple!

I could watch these all day

Make up some square forms for the concrete overage. You can pour out some stepping pads , or AC pads, for homeowner extras to use up the concrete that's paid for.

@w2ttsy670

10 ай бұрын

I was thinking they should trench the inevitable piles for the deck now and if they get filled on this run then they’re done and if not, board them over until they can be filled later.

If the rebar has a “W” on it you can weld it 👌