you're my hero! THIS is a great video!!!!!

Speed buggy. You gotta love them model As.

Great video thanks for posting

Great video, I hope that head got a good valve job before going back on.

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

Guides were loose, which is why I pulled the head in the first place. New guides, new valves, and one new seat (which may be visible from the punches around it).

I prefer the gray silicone as it is thicker and definitely better where there is oil present. Caterpillar and IH also use the gray silicone

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

What brand is that? Permatex Right Stuff?

possible better stud idea ; loctite smelly PTFE pipe/hydraulic sealant . sets similar to silicone and any leftover dirt , rust , etc doesnt seem to matter

@alexiskai

Жыл бұрын

There are probably a lot of sealants that would work for this application. RTV silicone is what everyone will have on hand and works well enough in unpressurized systems.

At 10:30 you're showing a special wrench to go around the distributor which is fine, but really not necessary. A crows foot wrench turned 90 degrees from the wrench handle gives virtually the same torque. I was skeptical about it but I tested the method against one of those electronic torque adapters and the difference was immeasurably small. I put my last Norton Commando engine together this way.

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

I've found the obstruction wrench to be more convenient because it gets the torque wrench up above the head, so you can rotate through a larger arc. But a crowfoot adapter works equally well from a mechanical standpoint, and it's definitely cheaper.

@allenhanford

2 жыл бұрын

@@alexiskai don't think for a second that I'm trying to talk you out of having more tools, LOL!

Great video, I really like those cloth spark plug wires! Do you mind sharing where you sourced the materials to make them from. Thanks

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

Those are authentic Model T spark plug wires and terminals from Snyder's. 3 feet of wire and a 10-pack of terminals will give you some leeway if you mess up. www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductDetail/8MM www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductDetail/T-5026-T-Q10

I recommend Ultra Copper near anything on a Engine the copper keeps the silicone from moving.... I installed a built custom Header's on Motor home's and many Round Track and drag race cars for over 20 years never no issue as well as building many Engine foreign and domestic farm and commerical...

@alexiskai

Жыл бұрын

Ultra Copper is great for headers and exhaust. I’ve used it to seal the tailpipe to the exhaust manifold once or twice.

good night , i have a ford , year 29 i live in Campinas SP Brazil i have a problem , water passed into the engine through the inlet valve of the fourth cylinder , the gasket is not burnt , i can not know how this water passed i have already removed the valve and i didn't see any cracks, can you give me any tips

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

Often those cracks aren't visible. The gold standard way to diagnose a crack in the coolant chamber is with a block pressure testing kit. If you're pretty sure you have a crack, you should consider treating the engine with a ceramic engine block sealer. These can seal small cracks permanently as long as the crack isn't growing. Give it a try and see if it fixes the issue. www.snydersantiqueauto.com/ProductDetail/A-6006_BLOCK-TESTING-KIT

@ricardopathe3925

2 жыл бұрын

@@alexiskai ok thank you very much for the tip

What's your thoughts on Evans Waterless Coolant? Saw it on Jay Leno' Garage. NEVER has to be replaced. As a novice on Model A's this seems like a better choice. Very informative and educational. What about synthetic oil? I've used Royal Purple for years and I believe it's a superior product.

@alexiskai

3 жыл бұрын

That's two questions so I'll use two comments. #1, the Evans coolant. Have not used it myself but I've talked to those who have. Works fine on A's, does what it says. Two caveats: it's much more expensive than antifreeze, so don't make the switch until you're satisfied that you won't need to do many drain/refill jobs in the near future. Second, it expands and contracts more than water, so it's recommended to convert your overflow tube to a bottle system that can draw the overflowed coolant back into the tank when it cools down.

@alexiskai

3 жыл бұрын

#2, synthetic oil (specifically RP). First question, are you using an oil filter?

@elosogonzalez8739

3 жыл бұрын

@@alexiskai Don't have an "A" yet. Just askin'..I've always thought running an oil filter regardless of what oil you use is a good idea. Just extra insurance. I really like the RP, it's good stuff. Thanks!

@alexiskai

3 жыл бұрын

@@elosogonzalez8739 The oil filter is definitely a good accessory. There's not much use of RP or other high-end synthetic oil in the Model A community. These cars just don't get driven enough miles or hard enough to make synthetic yield any better results than conventional.

@elosogonzalez8739

3 жыл бұрын

@@alexiskai As I wrote previous, I don't have an "A" as yet. I live in Arizona where temperatures can reach 120°F+. Though I probably wouldn't drive much in the summer, My wife and I like to drive to Sedona, Flagstaff or the Grand Canyon. Flagstaff is 8,000'. Certainly putting a load on them 40🐎. If I'm going to go through the effort to find and or build the vehicle, I plan on it being a daily driver; At least in the winter months. Right this minute, it's 102°F. It's gonna get ALOT HOTTER🔥!

Hello you are great 👍 Can you tell me your location where you can get me model Ford A car parts

great video, thanks a lot. I have a question may you could help me. I'm from Argentina, and not all replacements are available. I have a new head gasket and it is one side metal and the other graphite. Do you know if the metal side goes to the block or to the head cylinder? Thank you

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

If there are no markings on a gasket (like "top"), the next thing you want to look for is whether one side is smoother than the other. The smooth side should go against the component that is more likely to expand when heated. If you have an aluminum cylinder head, you'd want the smooth side against that. If neither side is smoother and there are no markings, then it doesn't matter which side is up.

Maybe you could answer a question for me please? About TDC. Traditionally, like..for the last 40 years, ive had to rotate the engine with #1 up, AND on compression stroke. So, sometimes depending which valve was about to open, i had to roll it over again to be on the correct stroke. However, since i got the Model A, and the manual, nothing ever says compression stroke. Can you help me understand why this is? Thank yoj

@alexiskai

4 ай бұрын

On later engines, the TDC mark is typically found on the crankshaft pulley. As you know, this pulley makes two revolutions per one four-stroke cycle, so it will be in the same position on the compression and exhaust strokes. That means you always need a second step to determine which stroke you're on. On the Model A, the TDC mark (actually a divot into which a pin drops) is on the camshaft gear, which only makes one revolution per four-stroke cycle. This allowed Ford to place the mark only at compression TDC, simplifying the task of timing the engine. Make sense?

@allhartfidelity

4 ай бұрын

@alexiskai that's fantastic thank you. Makes perfect sense, not sure why i diddnt recognize it. Thank you so much! I googled it and came up empty, and just kept going over it in my mind and got nowhere. Thank you for the videos as well, very helpful. Also going to do king pins on my 1930 so that should be interesting.

@alexiskai

4 ай бұрын

@@allhartfidelity Sounds good, make sure you review Tom Endy's advice on the subject. www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/King-Pin-Geometry.pdf

Is this man colorblind ?

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

It's an aftermarket high-compression head, not the stock head. The Winfield company traditionally painted their 7:1 heads red, so this replica Winfield has been painted to match.

Never use the gasket furnished for the coolant outlet neck, just make sure both surfaces are glean, apply silicone gasket maker, put it on and torque with the rest of 'em. Thousands of these cast necks have been broken by the best of us, toss that un-needed gasket..

@alexiskai

2 жыл бұрын

I cover this issue briefly in the previous video in this series (kzread.info/dash/bejne/f6F6paiwh9LPhJs.html). You're confusing the copper gasket shown in the video with the paper gasket that's also sold for this purpose. The paper gaskets are notorious for breaking water outlet ears, the copper gaskets are not. The copper gasket is the original equipment spec for this car - are you saying Ford designed the water outlet so it could only be installed using a chemical that wouldn't be invented until decades later? Use of the RTV gasket is widespread, but has its own issues. Using too much RTV can cause silicone to bulge out into the water jacket, detach, and lodge in the radiator. When you eventually need to remove the outlet, an RTV gasket will be harder to clean up than the gasket sealant I use in this video. I have no problems with folks using RTV instead of copper at the water outlet, but to say one should "never" use a gasket here is simply false. I used one, obviously, and didn't break the outlet. Many engine builders use the copper gaskets without issue. No fine-point restorer could omit it without losing points.

@patrickquirk-qz8ri

Ай бұрын

Used copper head gaskets for yèars . machine the head, never a leak.