Thanks for the excellent video mate. You are an excellent teacher. As for the final point where you show how to reset the flashing dpf light (which serves as a service reminder light); there's a further tip. I tried this more than once but the light wouldn't reset. I found tips elsewhere which said to press accelerator 10 times & others that said you may have to repeat the process a few times. In the end I found advice stating that the doors must all be closed. I tried this and it worked. Thanks again.

Love this video. Very informative and thorough. Can't wait for the next service

Excellent a very complete and detailed video, everything covered which is quite rare on here which alleviates any hedge scratching.

great video, very clear and steady guide. thank you for showing us this home service will save me £300+ on a dealers priced service.

Thank you so much for this perfect video and its thorough illustration. This is exactly what I needed.

Thank you very much. Most comprehencive servicing video.

Thanks this video saved me loads of grief, made fuel filter job easy.

You are star....thanks a lot mate,last service cost me without fuel filter around £200

Excellent video very easy to follow

Excellent info very well presented thank you

Thanks for the advise. A local garage tried to charge me for the rocker gasket. Once I got the car back I checked to see if the gasket was changed , it wasn’t therefore I rang them back asked lady are you telling me the gasket was definitely changed she said she’ll put me through to the mechanic. He told me it didn’t need changed. They boiled it down to a misunderstanding between the lady and mechanic. I got the money back. Thanks again.

thank you for replay , great video I hope that you still show us something that means repair with mazda thx

Really appreciated the video. Would value any further vids detailing further maintenance to this car such as brakes pads/discs etc.

@darshandhonsi9840

7 жыл бұрын

At the moment there is not much work to do on my mazda 6. However I have a mazda 3 and I will be replacing the brake disc and pads. The process is very similar to the mazda 6 so keep an eye out for that. I should have it uploaded within the next week or so.

@msoutlookenator

7 жыл бұрын

Darshan Dhonsi Thanks. I have subscribed to the channel.

Great Video, thank you very much for that :)

Thank you!

Hi great video, can you tell me if changing the gearbox oil resolved the crunching sound going into 1st and 2nd gear? Its just mine is doing the same. Thank you

cheers dude could you do a vid on changing cam shafts and cambelt please

Hi, great video. Would you mind telling me is it a difficult job to replace the intercooler?

The sealant you're using loses it's strength dramatically at high temperature and in contact with oil. Loctite 510 is a better option as its suitable for gasketing at high temp. Great video though. Helped me a lot with my 2012 mazda 6.

@alfaboy1554

6 жыл бұрын

Ok, I wrote to loctite about this and this is their reply. The answer depends on the design, if it is a machined cast sump you could use a product such as Loctite 510, I would actually use Loctite 5188 or 518 as they are more flexible, If it is a pressed sump you will need to use a product such as SI5660 due tot the gap fill and flexibility requirements. In general most automotive manufactures use silicones similar to SI 5660 (actually Loctite 5970 or 5900) to sump sealing, only industrial engines such as tractors would use anaerobic materials such as 510,518 etc. Hope this helps

Great video.Where can i conect the tubes for a dizel purge?

Mind blowing, that filter is never coming off lmao 🤣 you only need to snug it down and then a further 1/4 turn

tnx !!!!

How hard would it be to replace the flywheel on this?

Dexelia is recomended for mazda 6 2.2 diesel

How about valve clearance adjustment?

Hi although this video is almost 2 years old i just saw it and thanks for trying hard and uploading it, i was wondering if I disconnect the battery will I need a radio code after reconnecting as there isn't a radio code in the folder came with the mazda 6 2010 I bought recently?

@darshandhonsi9840

6 жыл бұрын

Hi. I have disconnected my battery many times, and never had to input a radio code. I don't have one, and never asked for one. I guess if you put in a new radio head unit that is from another Mazda, then it might ask you for one. I have also removed the entire unit and put it back in gain, and it works fine. However, Mazda may have changed things on the 2010 version, so if you do have to put in a code then you can pop down to the mazda dealership with your details, and they should give the code to you. Just phone and ask them before you start work.

Need some help/advice, I've got a 2009 Mazda 6 2.2D almost identical to this one which yesterday started ticking very loudly (ticking matches revs). Unfortunately I ended up driving about a mile before being able to stop. The car does not appear to be down on power and still starts (indeed the first time I started it the noise took a few minutes to come back). Checked oil which is full over the max and smells strongly of diesel. Planning to change oil + filter and check/clean the sump filter (service history is independent garages who may have missed this) as a first attempt at fixing the engine although concerned permanent damage may already have been done.

@seriously-learntodrive

4 жыл бұрын

Based on the clues that you have given: 1- dip stick shows liquid level over the max level. 2. Strong smell of diesel from engine oil. My guess would be your car's dpf is trying to regenerate but can't. Maybe because of too much driving at low speeds e.g. around town. As a result of unsuccesful regenerating, diesel goes into the engine oil causing oil level to increase. Diesel is not a good lubricant and therefore could be causing the noise as valves are not lubricated. Solution would be to change engine oil and you might as well do a service. Then take car on long drive on motorway. This needs to be done regulaly. To find out why diesel goes into engine oil when dpf regeneration failed, search on web as it would be easier to read then me typing it here.

Hi great video... Very helpful... Incredibly clear and concise However you have suggested 25-30nm for the sump pan.. Is that not high? I would have thought around 10nm into an aluminium alloy thread.

@4Kristupas

2 жыл бұрын

Definitely 25Nm is too high. I broke one of the bolts today with the torque wrench...

Great video. Do you have (and use) service manual for this diese 2.2 engine repairs? Thank you for the reply...

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

I have used the service manual for the 1st gen. Mazda 6. I have not got hold of 2nd gen Mazda 6 service/workshop manual.

Hi great video. I have a 2014 2.2 Mazda 6 skyactive. I have all the parts new gauge and new superseded injector washes. I heard that these washers need replaced every 30000-40000 miles. I’m unsure if the rocker cover needs removed so I can get at the injectors so I can change the washers. Could you give me any advice on this. Thanks Graeme.

@seriously-learntodrive

4 жыл бұрын

Hi. The injectors are located outside of the engine block. Therefore you don't need to remove the valve cover.

Genius tightening oil filter🤣

Are there any o-rings to replace when changing the transmission oil please?

@darshandhonsi9840

7 жыл бұрын

When replacing the bolts after you have changed the gear (transmission oil) you may need to change the steel washers. I didn't do this as I just normally heat them up using a blow torch and dipping them in cold water. But the washers on the bolts are only things that need replacing.

Thanks for the video. Is it possible to remove the oil strainer so I can clean it away from the underneath the car?

@seriously-learntodrive

4 жыл бұрын

Yes it is. You need a flat wude screw driver and they plenty of time to open. I think there are slots for the screw driver to go into. You can use petrol to clean the filter.

@alanroberts6312

4 жыл бұрын

I completely removed the strainer, that is the cause of many destroyed 2.2 mazda engines.

have the same one - did similar service myself but never took oil sump off , do you know how to prevent oil contamination issues ? is it injectors sealings?

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

There are 4 types of oil contamination that I know of: 1) Coolant in the engine oil which is due to a leak. 2) Fuel dilution which can happen due to leakage or forced DPF regeneration. 3) Soot - can be due to injector sealing 4) Water - condensation. Preventing leaks is difficult but to some extent this is minimised by maintaining your car. For number 2 and 3. a common problem if you search on the internet is fuel dilution, because the car is not being driven long enough above 40mph for regeneration to happen. If this does not happen because you’re traveling around town a lot, the car tries to force regenerate. You can google this to find out why this causes fuel to end up in the engine oil as I would be writing a lot here. The other common problem is a sealing injector problem. Gas bypassing the injectors and therefore you get exhaust fumes in the engine bay. There is not much you can do to prevent leaks. But you can check the oil sump to see if there is soot in the oil sump filter. Or if the injector is leaking enough then you will be able to smell exhaust fumes in the engine bay and sometimes inside the car. Hope this of some help.

I have a Mazda 6 2011 Sport 2.2 that I only bought 6 weeks ago. It seemed well looked after with full Mazda service history. During this week my oil light flickers a few times even though I wasn't low on oil. I brought it to my mechanic who discovered the oil strainer was covered in junk. He cleaned it and changed the oil. He told me the oil strainer needs to be cleaned every 3th or 4th service. He also told me that I would need to change the injector's sometime but this is a difficult job. I am guessing I would need these injector's changed asap though and this will stop the strainer been clogged up ? I have read so many stories online about this Mazda's 2.2 engines failing. It's a nice car but I am starting to regret buying and have lost trust in it. Maybe a safer bet would be to change it for a car that has a more trustworthy reliable engine ? I use to own an old Toyota Avensis which looked a basic car compared to the Mazda but it was bullet proof and never had a problem in 5 year's.

@darshandhonsi9840

5 жыл бұрын

Hi. Even if the car has a full service history. It does not necessarily mean that every thing will be hunky dory. The issue you have with a blocked strainer may be because the washers that provide a seal between the injectors and the metal block that it sits, leaks and this means you get gas blowing by, causing carbon formation on the oil strainer. You may not need the injectors if your mechanic is able to remove them, because sometimes the carbon build up may sometimes make it difficult to get out. You just need to install new washers which are fairly cheap, therefore buying some good washers. The injectors is where is expense is £200+ each , and therefore if these can be saved then you can reuse them.

@markcorcoran9866

5 жыл бұрын

@@darshandhonsi9840 So I just need to replace the injector seals, and not the injector's ? I was thinking that myself. I must tell this to my mechanic because I'm not replacing injector's especially at that cost.

Hi i have a question..how can i release tensioner pulley,as i have some allen or star key there and really no access from side.

@Glenn7719

7 жыл бұрын

17mm Spanner on the side and pull it forward and you slot and Allen key or something similar in the hole on top to lock it in place when its loose.

I have one question. I bought the same oil like yours and it's 2.84L total. I double checked the user manual, what is showing 2.5L oil need for gearbox. So which one is the correct quantity?

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

Go with the user manual. I had my car on a ramp meaning the front end of the car is elevated resulting in slightly more oil going in. As the capacity is 2.5l you will have to buy 3 litres therefore you will have a bit left over.Hi

hi great video I have a mazda 6 two ltr diesel 08,is the filters an set up the same as the 2.2 ltr

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

Changing the oil and air filter is similar, but the locations may differ slighty. You can get the parts from eurocar parts, halfords etc.

@michaelryan6044

7 жыл бұрын

Seriously - Learn to drive sound thanks a lot

@piobreo4061

6 жыл бұрын

Never tighten the filter so tight Hand tightening only

Hi mate, You said that you were changing the transmission oil because the 1st gear to 2nd gear was stiff...the oil seemed clear when you drained so did replacing it do anything? Eurocarparts charging a small fortune for the redline and don't want to waste £80 on oil if doesnt make a difference. If not what did you do next? Cheers Matt

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

Hi, after changing the gear oil it did not make any difference. I have come to the conclusion as the problem has surfaced that the 2nd gear synchro. is wearing down. I have changed the gear oil from 75w90 to 75w80 made by Miller oil. This has made a big difference as you only here any grinding if you change gears really quickly. Eventually I will have to get someone to refurbish the gear box as this is a job the is to big for me to do. Red line is good and is likely to iron out any issues that you may have, but if your synchro. mesh is going then the only thing to do is repair the gearbox. If eurocarparts are expensive try opieoil.com but do take into account the cost of delivery.

@MLeofriC

7 жыл бұрын

Seriously - Learn to drive thanks very much top man for getting back to me!

@rogercollingwood8234

7 жыл бұрын

Try lubricating the external gear change mechanism. Particularly the parts that are accessed by removing the battery and the battery tray. This made a big difference for me on my car which is identical to yours.

Hi do all Mazda 2.2 diesel engines have a DPF filter?

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

Hi. On the 2009 uk model Mazda replaced the cambelt with a chain. Therefore there is a lot more work to do. At the moment it does mot need changing. As for the camshaft this is something that I have not done, but maybe someone else has so I can't help you there.

I have a mazda 6 2008... 2.0dies3l if I disconnect the battery to replace the fuel filter will my radio need a code I've checked all the manuals and can't find a code please help thanks

@seriously-learntodrive

4 жыл бұрын

Hi. My car is 2009 and does not need a code and also it is manufacturer fitted. I'm assuming your radio it is manufacturer fitted as well, and will not need a code. In the past when I had cars that needed the radio code and I did not have it, I could go to the dealer with my v05 document and the car, and they would provide me with the code. Because they are fitted they can only fit in a few types of Mazdas.

There is a standard type of oil filter or I can use some other brands? Like Bosh or KN

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

Hi. You can use the oem or you could use a good aftermarket type, as many manufacturers use them and have them rebranded. I use Mann but Bosh would also be suitable.

@noctuidae10

5 жыл бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive Thank you !

I poured 5w30 addinol, Tell me please pour the original Mazda oil or something else? Mazda 6 gh 2010- 95kw, mileage 250000

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

Any 5W 30 that meets the low sulfated ash spec. C1 will do. Engine oils that contain higher amounts sulfated ash will make your DPF regenerate more often, as they blocked due to the higher ash content.

@paulanderson79

5 жыл бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive - Unlike soot, ash accumulated in a DPF cannot be burnt off. ACEA C1 or JASO DL-1 is critical for these engines. Latterly Mazda has relaxed the spec and now claims that ACEA C3 may be used, which is in line with the requirements of the SkyActiv D engines. Personally I think this is more of a convenience measure for franchised Mazda dealers who now only need to stock one type of oil. Mazda is acutely aware that all the series 2 GH cars and their MZR-CD are well outside of warranty and thus it's no loss to Mazda when DPFs start to fail due to accumulated ash. Some people have expressed concerns about ACEA C1 being less protective than ACEA C3 on account of it's lower additive levels. This I consider to be a false concern. ACEA C1 oils will use more robust base stocks that ACEA C3 in order to compensate for the lower SAPS levels. This is why ACEA C1 is more expensive than ACEA C3 when comparing oils from the same manufacturer.

did you change the sump filter after all? Thx for video

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

No i din't change the sump filter. I justed wanted to make sure that it was not blokced. This would also be an indication the the injector sealing would be leaking. To change out the sump filter is hard work on this model, as it is mechanically pressed in. Therefore would you would have replace more than just the sump filter.

@Glenn7719

7 жыл бұрын

I cut that metal cover off with a dremel to allow easier access to the gauze, (its a friends car and he said do it) :D got in there with a tooth brush and loads of brake cleaner in there to clean all the carbonized crap blocking it up. New injector seals, job done. Recommended to replace them every 30000 miles and its an easier enough job to do so part of a service.

@eddgreen9376

7 жыл бұрын

bob hope , would you say the injector seals are a diy job as I would like to do mine?

@Glenn7719

7 жыл бұрын

Its a simple enough job, the only problem as what we had they can be stuck in there and you might have issues removing them. DO NOT take the tops of the injectors off as it messes up the calibration as we found out, car would start afterwards, had to get them re-calibrated. Also make sure the injector seats are all clean before you install new washers.

your video is too helpful, but can you please try to help me again? my car have got a problem on VSS,but i don,t know where vehicles speed sensor is located

@seriously-learntodrive

Жыл бұрын

Hi, haven't had a problem with vss. I guessing it will be located on the wheel hub somewhere. Here is a link that might help you: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oaGll9yCZbLflMY.html

Section 4-2 of the owners handbook states that you should never add fuel system additives as they may damage the system. I have some diesel injector cleaner sitting on the shelf in the garage and wondered what your view was please?

@seriously-learntodrive

6 жыл бұрын

I think that while some additives do help in certain situations, such as stopping the diesel fuel in your tank from congealing in very cold climates, the additives you should steer clear of are those that claim to improve fuel economy. The reality is that any savings you make in economy will be more than cancelled out by the price of the fuel additive in the first place. The reality is that if you own a car that's less than 10 years old and it has been well maintained, there really isn't any need to use any of these kind of additives, as the car's electronics and fuel system will be optimised to deliver the best mix of performance and efficiency in the first place. With regards to the fuel injectors, major brands such as Shell have additives in them already to combat deposit buildup.

@paulanderson79

6 жыл бұрын

The best thing to do is use top tier diesel. BP Ultimate is very good stuff. I use it exclusively.

Hi, Great video thanks. i have just bought one of these cars a 2011 2.2 sport and have researched all this with the gauze and engine failure. Mine has 82k miles on it so mainly motorways so regens should have been pretty good. Mine is doing one every 250 mls approx. On cold mornings mine sounds quite rattly over 1500rpm but sounds lovely when warm. May I ask does yours do similar? If not I may have an injector problem. I will also be doing exactly what you have done. I have just had the dreaded timing chain done also, Well the garage did I bought it from.

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

Hi, mine has done about 120,000 miles. When engine is cold and is idling the engine sounds like a diesel, but when you start driving is goes quiet and stays quite, doesn't sound like a diesel when you accelerate. It's good you got the timing chain done from the garage, as i have done timing belts in the past which take time because of the small clearances.

@flibbertigibbet6200

7 жыл бұрын

mmmm thanks for the reply. mine seems room be the opposite! sounds fine when cold at idle but when under load sounds very diesel knocky... but only when below 10 degrees really. must have inj3ctor issues :-(

@kevinkevin4370

4 жыл бұрын

Hi! Can you tell the MPH you get?

Hi my Mazda is smoking when idol eg traffic lights etc is it the glow plugs

@ceirwan

5 жыл бұрын

No.

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

Usually, glow plugs don't cause your engine to smoke. If you have problems with your plugs the will make it difficult to start your engine in the mornings. The question is what colour is your smoke?

I poured 2.400 liters of oil into the gearbox, and the book says 2.850 why?

@paulanderson79

4 жыл бұрын

Probably because it's practically impossible to remove all of the old oil.

How many liters of oil to the engine

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

it is about 4.5 litres. and C1 spec. as it has a DPF. C1 mean that is has a low in Sulphated Ash. It is a by-product of combustion that can cause the ‘mesh’ structure in a DPF to become irreversibly blocked.

Hello, recently i bought mazda 6 gh 2.0 diesel, when i switch to 6 gear and accelerate there are vibrations appear even at 2000 rpm, other gears works fine. Do i need to change the oil in gearbox?

@seriously-learntodrive

8 ай бұрын

As your in 6th gear, that says your on the motorway. I'm guessing as you build up speed the vibrations start. If you are feeling the vibration through your seat, it could be your rear wheels need balancing. If through the steering wheel then it would be the front wheels.

@xtremeboy94

8 ай бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive It's not wheels balance i recently changed tyres and balanced in workshop. Driving 100-120 km/h on 5th gear is ok, On 6th gear at the same speed vibrations through seat and steer, goes from somewhere In front.I wonder to know maybe its 6 gear demaged or drive shaft problem?

On what level should oil be poured into the motor F or X?

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

Hi. I normally fill it to the F level. If the oil level reaches the x mark, that means there is an issue with your regeneration of the dpf. If you drive around town a lot and the car tries regenerating the dpf but fails due to stopping and starting. Diesel can enter the oil sump as it injects diesel to increase the exhaust temperature to do the regen. Therefore your oil level will increase to the x level. This is an indication that your oil is diluted with diesel and your engine components will not be properly lubricanted.

@Samerhold

5 жыл бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive Thank you for answering, this is my first car, and I have poured oil up to the mark x and drove already 4000km, there will be after that a problem with the engine?

@seriously-learntodrive

5 жыл бұрын

If you do a lot of stop start driving, and very little motorway driving then potentially yes. The easiest way to remove the oil is using the dip stick tube. buy a pump and a tube that will suck the oil and these kits are available. If you find that they are too expensive then you can buy a hand pump and a tube. Hope this helps.

@Samerhold

5 жыл бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive ok thanks

@Samerhold

5 жыл бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive I do not have a battery pack for a fuel filter, where can it be fuel filter ? (mazda 6 gh 2.2 diesel 95kw)

What ramps do you use?

@seriously-learntodrive

Жыл бұрын

I use these types: www.machinemart.co.uk/p/car-ramps-cr2/. Although I bought them from halfords many years ago. Also I have to use the extension that are sold separately as the front end is low. However, I use a scaffolding plank cut down to size, it does the job.

got a 59 plate 2.2d SL currently at 143k miles, still no cam chain change. if anyone needs any info, or just to share stories about these cars, feel free to reply. It's been one of the best cars i've owned so far...

@Glenn7719

7 жыл бұрын

I got plenty of stories. :D A fella i know a taxi driver has a 2010 model with around 250k miles on it. Ive lost count of the times ive had the oil pump off to clean the gauze because he ignored changing the injector seals every 30k. Just so recently the timing chain snapped and silly me told him to bring it over and i will have a look at it. Few days later it was all done and running again. The damage the chain done was it broke 6 rocker arms in half, i suppose it was better than it bending any valves as i popped all 16 out when i had the head off and they were all good. New valve seals, valves lapped, head back on, new rocker arms, new timing chain kit and all running good, for about 2 weeks and i found myself having to replace the DPF system. That was a couple of months ago and all is fine now, for now anyway until something else goes wrong.

@eugenvrancea

7 жыл бұрын

:) these cars aren't really built for taxiing, they're motorway beasts. i would trade it in for a new model, but they don't do the new 6 with a sunroof for the UK market, that's a deal breaker for me haha...

@Glenn7719

7 жыл бұрын

He only really does London Airport journeys so most of it is motorway miles to Gatwick/Heathrow etc. Its like any car i suppose, you dont maintain it it can bite you, in your wallet. :D this one has cost him a small fortune. Regular injector seal replacement, say every 30k like is recommended, keep on top of things and it should be fine now.

What mileage??

@seriously-learntodrive

6 жыл бұрын

The car has done about 120,000 miles.

lol2, what i remember that air filter is for petrol engine, not for diesel;)

Can you actually take out the filter and clean it? Why didn't you do that?

@seriously-learntodrive

3 жыл бұрын

Which filter are you referring to. Oil filter - No, as it comes as a packaged filter. You will have to cut it open, and there not that expensive. Air filter- you can clean it, but I don't bother as a new one is not that expensive. Fuel filter - similar to oil filter, it comes as a packaged filter.

@stucrossland3719

3 жыл бұрын

@@seriously-learntodrive , kzread.info/dash/bejne/hGd9ytegl9PSk7Q.html

Did you ever record yourself doing the timing chain? Sure Mazda will charge me a bomb to do it

@seriously-learntodrive

7 жыл бұрын

I haven’t thought about doing the timing chain. I have done timing belts before and they take time. I did get Mazda to change the timing chain under warranty as it had stretched and took him about 3 hours. The timing chain is built into the engine as it is lubricated by the engine oil, so you might have to do an oil change as well. You could also try a Mazda independent garage, however I don't have any details for any. If you are interested I could find you a set of instructions? but it might take a few days as i'm busy.

@msoutlookenator

7 жыл бұрын

Seriously - Learn to drive My chain also stretched....just outside of warranty and required changing but thankfully Mazda kindly covered the cost. Must be a common issue? Hopefully the new one is better quality and will last the remaining life of the car (as I'd expect from a timing chain).

@Glenn7719

7 жыл бұрын

They were recalled because of it back around 2011, obviously not all cars made it back, they had an issue of the chain stretching and snapping. Ive just done one last week which had the chain snap. Big job, head off also, didnt damage any valves, broke 6 rockers arms tho, lower mileage head went on, skimmed, valves lapped, new seals etc. If you're just doing the chain? Its not that bad of a job imo, its that side cover, its held on with about 20 bolts, some in awkward places. There is lots of details and instructions at "euroesi.mazda.co.jp" just enter that into google and you will find this motor simple enough.

@aaronlenton3511

6 жыл бұрын

bob hope hi, was this an official recall on all 2.2d's do you know? I have the Mazda 3 2.2, and after all the horror stories with the timing chains on these it would be good to know it's either already been taken care of, or can be taken care of because of the recall, orrr the Mazda 3 2.2's weren't affected, which is unlikely tbh. Thanks in advance

no need to tighten the shit out of the filter

So you pulled the sump off to put it back on again 🤔 pointless.

@seriously-learntodrive

Жыл бұрын

Nope, pulled the sump off to check the stainer was not blocked. Because if that blocks, because an injector had a seal that leaked carbon particles into the sump and blocked it, you kill the engine.