WARNING! There are 3 clips in this system. Only two need to be pulled and they are both clips that you have to widen to remove. The third one, seen at 9:25 in the clip, is tiny, requires that you close it to remove, and is EXTREMELY dangerous. Do not remove this tiny, inner pin as doing so will release all of the refrigerant and begin the internal destruction of the compressor. A small sleeve will also go shooting across the room which could cause grave injury. Watch very carefully which clips are removed. Otherwise, this video is spot on. I had a lot of problems getting the wires disconnected and it took me over a half hour. The connector even "came apart" at one point, but it's a standard spade connector and all you have to do is push in back in and give it an extra push with a very tiny screwdriver until it doesn't come apart under slight tugging. When I put the belt on, it wasn't completely in the groove. I used the rubber part of a screwdriver handle to push on the belt just before it goes on the pulley. Then I kept turning the crankshaft. Oh - the crankshaft uses a 21mm socket, not a 22mm socket. Or at least it was on my vehicle. Man do I love breaker bars. Made this job a work smarter not harder endeavor. I didn't have a torque setting for the 5mm screw. 10lbs felt about the same place it was when I pulled it out.

@PIFDIY

8 жыл бұрын

Good information here, thanks for the reply. I've added a warning to the video and referenced your comment.

@aam3188

7 жыл бұрын

Q...It is necessary to keep the old/existing sensor or I can use the one that came with the coil if where to installed this new sensor

@michaelbuchanan2662

4 жыл бұрын

That is it it doesn’t go nowhere just tuck it in

Good solder job. So many folks don't get the "heat the wire, not the solder" concept. That electrical tape will unwrap (the adhesive on electrical tape isn't meant to withstand engine temps) and the solder joint will short to ground and blow the fuse. Get a piece of shrink tubing that will fit over the connector (doesn't have to be small)--about 3 inches long. Uncouple the connector, slide it on the wire and over the solder joint. You don't even have to heat/shrink it if you don't want to. It will outlast the car.

Thank you, this is possibly one of the best mechanic videos on KZread.

Very articulate video. Thank you for taking the time to explain and show this repair in great detail with various camera angle set ups and tip. One of the best teachable repairs on youtube bar none. It would have taken considerable time, I am sure. Appreciate you doing it.

Thank you brother! Replaced the coil in my daughter's 2008 last weekend, actually replace the entire clutch because that's what came from Amazon! Saved me hundreds and saved my poor, entitled daughter from a couple of months of sweating behind the wheel... Kids these days.

This video helped a lot. I had exactly the same problem with my 2007 Mazda3 S and was able to fix my AC by following these steps. Thank you so much for such a detailed presentation.

Thank you so much for this video. Spot on perfection, I was able to fix my sons AC on his 2006 Mazda3 for $120. The mechanic wanted $1700. 😂😂😂

@PIFDIY

2 күн бұрын

Awesome, good job!

Thanks for this video! Just did this work last weekend and it fixed my problem. I have a few comments: I used a kit that you can buy from Amazon (RYC-Remanufactured-Compressor-Clutch-EG463-CL, $105) or from RYC directly which is what I did. It was $20 cheaper than Amazon and RYC ships free via Fed-X 2nd day. While I only needed the coil, I used all the parts and the fit was perfect on my 2008 3s. The OEM pully looked OK, but had a bit of drag on the bearing. The other manufacturer on Amazon (ECCPP) had a ton of bad company reviews, so I decided it was just going to be a poor quality item. Get a good quality snap ring pliers for this. I tried a Harbor Freight cheapie ($4) first and it worked to get the pulley snap ring off, but it's not long enough to reach the coil snap ring without risking gouging of the pulley bearing surface. Channel Lock has a $30 tool (P/N 927) that's good quality and comes with a variety of tips. It made getting the stiffer coil snap-ring on and off very easy. The kit comes with new snap rings. Make sure to get the coil snap ring installed correctly. The coil should be securely locked in place when the snap ring is properly installed. The idea about dropping the compressor to get at the temperature switch is a good one, but I did not do this. The RYC coil did not come with the switch and, in my experience, those type of bi-metal switches rarely fail. I left the main serpentine belt loose while I stretched the AC belt on. This way, the zip tie doesn't get caught up in the main belt making it easier to remove. Consider adding a bit of threadlocker to the 5mm bolt. I used Loctite Blue (medium strength). Reasonably strong and you can get it apart again if you have to.

@PIFDIY

Жыл бұрын

All good stuff! Thanks!

I wanted to say thanks! I was able to do this fix on my 2005 mazda3 2.3L and my AC finally works again. It died out of nowhere, still pushing cold air until that last time. I knew it couldn't be an issue with freon since the air was not gradually getting warmer, the AC just stopped working. I found your video and for my car the compressor connects to a cable that is shared by another that goes towards the top. If you're looking at all three cable it looks like a 'Y'. The compressor cable is wrapped around the compressor, and is clipped onto the engine block on the side and then disappears towards the driver side, maybe 6 inches long altogether. Another cable it shares a connection with goes towards the top of the engine, which you don't have to do anything with. Pulling off the clutch plate was exactly as you described in the video and it pulled off without a problem. Removing the pulley needed some soft taps with a hammer from behind. When I got the pulley off I knew for sure that the coil was bad. The inside ring of the coil was no longer a solid black ring, it was yellow and deformed. Putting everything back together was the same, except I forgot a snap ring and had to take everything apart again lol. My advice to everyone is to go slow and take your time, because removing the clutch plate was pretty much impossible after everything was reinstalled already. Im guessing the new coil was the cause for the difficulty in removal. This is definitely doable for any DIY mechanic however, and 50.00 dollars is a lot cheaper than a new compressor. Good luck! Tools used: car jack, tire wrench, Internal snap ring pliers, socket wrench, 12mm socket, 21mm socket, 14mm socket, 5mm allen tool/socket, heat shrink to water proof wiring, zip ties (installing new ac belt), thread lock for the 5mm bolt.

@PIFDIY

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comments and the tool tips!

Thank you for taking the time to make this video and your clear and concise walkthrough.

Thanks for posting this...I was actually just replacing the bearing in my '98 Protege but watching some videos of other Mazda A/C repairs for a bit of overview. Being older, my pulley/bearing was pretty cheezed on, and the body of the car interfered with any hope of using a puller. But a soak with PB and some tapping on one side while pulling on the other, like a stuck brake drum, and it worked its way off. If anyone does this be sure you only tap the outer edge, don't hit the friction face or your belt grooves.

Brilliant. This guy is a genius. Haven't torn into this project yet, but I'm sure that when I do it will go well. Many thanks to the poster for doing such a FANTASTIC job and taking the time to make this video..

Thanks for the video. It was very informative and easy to follow. I will be replacing the ac clutch including the pulley my 2006 Mazda3 later this week.

Glad you were able to diagnose the problem and made the simple fix! My 2005 Toyota Corolla did the exact same thing. I was driving it and all of a sudden, the A/C wasn't blowing cold. Got home and realized the clutch on my compressor wasn't engaging. I knew my freon was ok so checked the voltage to the compressor, that was ok. Checked for continuity on the coil and it was open. A few days later and 20 bucks from E-bay and my problem was solved and no expensive A/C repairs. I just bought the coil like you did and that was about 4 years ago and I use my A/C all the time and luckily it was a open A/C clutch coil. It's a good feeling when you find out it was just a simple and inexpensive fix. Great job in your diagnosing your A/C problem, just like a Pro...Aloha

@PIFDIY

11 ай бұрын

Hey thanks @donspirz4199! I agree, it's a great feeling when you avoid a big repair bill and do the fix yourself. Good job!

Very well done, better than other clutch-coil replacement videos because, 1) you did it in place, instead of removing the compressor and then doing it in a vise, and 2) you didn't walk us through the steps AFTER you had already completed the repair. Old vid, i know, but the internet is "forever," so THANK YOU! 👍👍

Great Video. My 16 YO daughter was able to do about 50% of the work. For those about to do this I offer tje following small changes. 1) the coil from Amazon doesn't have to be cut. Four bolts hold on the compressor and the AC lines are flexible. Lower the compressor down and to the side about 6 inches and there is a Philips screw holding on the little button. I just replaced it all. 2) I left the shield in place so I could shove a screw driver in the small hole for leverage to hold the clutch in place. 3) I put the belt on the same way, bit went clockwise.

@Macky1101

2 жыл бұрын

I thought he cut it because the connector wasn't compatible with the existing connector on the compressor? No? So what did you with the old heat sensor that was sitting inside a hole in the back of the compressor?

For months I thought I had a bad compressor. Stumbled upon this video and it ended up being a corroded wire from the clutch coil the whole time. I forgot to check the easiest solutions first. Lesson learned!

I ordered the same replacement kit, but I didn't cut/soder the wire. If you carefully remove the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor, you can wiggle it around to have access to one Phillips head screw that holds the wire harness to the compressor. I flat head screw driver will help remove the safety sensor. But honestly, if you follow this video step by step, it is very clear and well made.

I had the same issue! Meaning on my mazda 3 bk 2.0 s-vt petrol engine 150 hp, when turning on AC nothing happened just warm air in stead of cool air. Checked visually: engine on, AC on and the 3 big bolts from the AC pulley were not spinning. Followed instructions in this video and checked the 12w plug and there was signal given and on the coil end infinite ohms. Removed coil, not available for purchasing in Romania, I had my father-in-law remake the coil wiring (he is a specialist in this field) mounted back and before having the belt on tested if the clutch is working: it is working. Belt on AC on cold air in the vent!!! Prior checked the gas inside the system there was 350grams?! Added 150 more as the sistem showed it should have. By trying this I saved around 500 EUR. It coated me around 50 in total (belt and usual price for coil remake) Thank you for this video! Try before buying a new AC as all services would suggest.

very nice. Videos like these really help people like me who like to do small jobs like this by themselves. It saves a lot of money, i am sure a mechanic would have charged a lot of money for this.

Ur video inspired me to troubleshoot my ac problem and was exact same issue ..that said i followed what was done here and i hv beautiful cold air in my car ...kudos man

Thanks so much for posting this. I have the exact same car ( even the color!) and am having the same issues.

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this. My 2010 Mazda 5 AC now works great. We had the same problem.

@karinaoyervidez1413

5 жыл бұрын

Did the ac stop working or was it blowing hot air?

@davemack2706

5 жыл бұрын

Angela Gyo blowing hot air.

Thanks so much. Was exactly my problem. I didn't know you could replace the clutch w/o removing compressor

Great video, opened the wheel well up yesterday to change out the coil and was able to complete it in ~3 hours (this is after having to go buy a 2nd belt which I'll comment on). But great detail, and luckily when I got the belt on, the clutch engaged and the click was a huge relief - knowing I could avoid replacing the whole compressor. A few comments and background on my installation ('07 Mazda 3 2.0 130k miles) - I was hoping to test the coil before taking it out but was unable to. It may be possible but I wasn't sure I was able to get the ground properly without taking it out completely. I used the standard car jack and put the car on a jackstand once I got it up. I took the wheel and plastic wheel well liner off which was definitely necessary to have access. I used pb blaster to loosen the allen bolt and was able to get it out with just a standard wrench. NOTE - Mine would not fit a 5.5mm wrench like the video said. Could have been corrosion but even 5 was too big and 4 was too small. I luckily had an SAE wrench that would be somewhere btwn 4-5 mm in metric (I forget what size) that fit snuggly and I was able to get it off with that. I'd recommend having a few sizes available From there everything went as pictured in the video for the most part, I did not require a pulley puller and just tapped it lightly with the hammer to loosen the grip and pulled it off. Tested the new coil once I took it off and it was in fact shot. When I looked at it, it looked pretty beat up, rusted, fried etc. So I assumed it was. Put the new coil on no problem and got everything back on. The area I had an issue was putting the belt back on however. At first I did not have the ziptie hole at the same place that it was in the video. I didn't realize until after, but this is what caused my problem. Line up the zip tie with where the author has it in the video. You need to make sure to only tie the new belt on and not also tie the other belt that is on there that leads higher. You can see at 20:08 in the video the right place for the zip to be. You can also see the 2nd belt you want to avoid leading away below the zip. It's tough to see but points at an ~45 degree angle to the right. If you do tie both belts on (which I did) it will eventually snap when you get to a certain point turning it. For me this caused the belt to not get all the way on and instead the belt threading began to strip as I turned it and the new belt became useless. I had to go to autozone and get a new belt at this point which was very frustrating. Luckily when I got back I realized what I had done and was more careful. I was able to get the belt on with a few turns, start it up and heard the click. Very relieving. And a huge success. Thank you again for uploading this video it was very helpful, and I urge anyone to check it out before replacing the entire compressor. My AC was working fine and then all of a sudden would no longer engage and turn on. Everyone told me it had to be the refrigerant but I didn't buy it after a few tests. Glad I went ahead with changing out the coil

@PIFDIY

8 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Thanks for leaving comments and adding more information to help others with the replacement.

@davecc0000

7 жыл бұрын

+Derek Wiatrowski Excellent follow-up Derek. Very detailed and helpful to others. General comments: just because the clutch doesn't engage doesn't automatically mean it's because of a bad coil. It could be that the refrigerant is all gone and the low-pressure switch won't allow the clutch to engage. Only by testing the coil can you know if it is bad. You can easily test the coil by removing only the wheel and inner fender cover. Disconnect the coil connector and using a multimeter in resistance mode put one test probe on the tab inside the plastic connector housing and the other probe on the metal of the compressor (or any metal on the engine--you don't have to touch it to the coil housing). A reading of 6 or less means it's probably OK. If anything else, it's fried.

@zipzit2go

5 жыл бұрын

Way easy to test the coil, thru the socket where the A/C relay goes. Study this diagram closely. ( ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/TR/tracker40/2013-04-21_203928_1.gif ) place volt-ohm meter probe on socket labeled for wire P/Y and measure to ground. Verify voltage = zero, then read ohms. If you aren't sure of your skills, DISCONNECT GROUND CABLE AT BATTERY TERMINAL (-) FIRST.. Safety, safety, safety. Takes 20 seconds to test. The hardest thing is to remove the A/C relay.

@orfeous

Жыл бұрын

@@zipzit2go I tried this but got some strange readings. Might be an issue with wire or connectors

Nice! That really helps a lot, especially with getting the belt back on. I think my compressor is leaking so mounting the belt was confusing, but this helps! Thank you!

I did the same job on my 2007 Mazda 3, 3 years ago. The dealers and garages wanted to replace the whole compressor for about $700-1000 CDN. My son brought me back a clutch Kit (Pulley, Bearing, Coil, Plate) from one of his business trips to the US for a total cost of $69 US or $95 CDN, with the exchange. The rest was just my own labour.

This is a great video. My clutch wasn't engaging and my mechanic quoted me $1200 to replace the whole compressor, recharge the system, etc. Then I saw this video and decided to give it a try. Complete success. A couple of comments though: (1) I ordered the coil from Amazon and the one I received had the same connector as the main connector coming down from the battery so I didn't need to re-solder; (2) I was confused by the use of the zip-tie to keep the belt on the pulley as I couldn't see how that wouldn't get caught up in the serpentine belt as it reached the top. I ended up using the zip-tie until it touched the serpentine belt then cutting it off and using my hands (carefully!) to guide the a/c belt the rest of the way. Hard work but manageable.

@coreyprevost6581

7 жыл бұрын

Hey! My mechanic quoted me today for $1200 also, but when I checked before my clutch was turning like in the video so I would like to give it a try. However, I cannot find the coil on Amazon...Any chance you can send me the link for the one you purchased? This would be really helpful! Thanks

@andrewbarlow148

7 жыл бұрын

Corey Prevost Sure - try this:Mazda 3 AC A/C Compressor Clutch Coil with original harness and thermal sensor www.amazon.com/dp/B01G45W8NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Iva1QUsVEZHik. And best of luck!

You have given me the courage to try this. You are absolutely right that a "master certified mechanic" at Pep Boys wants to replace the entire system at more than $1,000. I'd rather get rid of the car since it has 120k miles, but you have given me hope. I'll definitely do the diagnostic tests before doing anything.

@rankinh71

6 жыл бұрын

zerolagtime what end up happening ?

Thanks for the video, great attention to detail.

Great job! Well explain and very illustrative. Thank you!

Thank you for your video I'm working on a 2006 Mazda 5 same engine same setup. Used my Power Probe to provide 12 volts to my coil and it did not engage. Now I just got to grab a multimeter and test for resistance. Probably going to be doing the exact same repair you did.

good job, my daughter has the same car with an AC problem I'm her dad and gonna soon be trouble shooting it, hopefully it's the same issue. Thank you for the very professional video

You are patient and resourceful and I am not so I’m probably headed to a mechanic. Excellent video.

Nice video! Was very informative! Can't wait to see if this fixes my sons mazda.

Thank you for the video! I did this on my 2009 Mazda 3 yesterday. For anyone wondering, you can avoid the soldering if you purchase the same coil with the heat sensor included. All you need to do is take off the four screws on the bottom of the compressor to lower it down and the sensor slides into a little hole on the top of the compressor in the back. Ours took a little work to get out, but we were able to get it out and put the new sensor in.

@JakesMoparGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Where did you get the coil

@rileyprewett7445

3 жыл бұрын

@@JakesMoparGarage www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-3-04-09-AC-Compressor-Clutch-Kit-Plate-Bearing-Coil-Pulley-BP4S61K00/263118788968?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

@JakesMoparGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@Macky1101

2 жыл бұрын

@@rileyprewett7445 Isn't the reason he cut and soldered is because the connector that is on the new coil isn't compatible with the connector on the existing compressor? So the ebay-link you posted, the connector is compatible with the connector on the compressor? And you took all the bolts holding the compressor off and let the compressor dangle from the AC lines? The AC lines did not break and the connection did not leak? And what did you do with the old heat sensor?

@rileyprewett7445

2 жыл бұрын

@@Macky1101 yeah the link I used worked perfect for replacing the sensor and the coil without soldering. When we took the compressor down, we didn't dangle it by the AC lines because we didn't want to break them, my dad held it up for me until we bolted the compressor back into place. We just threw away the old sensor and coil and I haven't had any issues since.

Great Vid and Charlie thanks for the heads up

Really helpful to diagnose the issue. Much appreciated!

@jadluciano4400

3 жыл бұрын

I guess I am kind of off topic but do anyone know of a good website to stream newly released tv shows online ?

@mariojagger7975

3 жыл бұрын

@Jad Luciano Lately I have been using FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)

@kamryneverett7184

3 жыл бұрын

@Mario Jagger definitely, I have been using Flixzone for since march myself :D

@jadluciano4400

3 жыл бұрын

@Mario Jagger Thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I really appreciate it !

@mariojagger7975

3 жыл бұрын

@Jad Luciano no problem =)

Success! Thanks so much for this video. It took me almost the entire day to do the repair, however. I was going slow as having never attempted this type of repair before. My '04 2.3 was a bit different, but overall the concepts were the same. I ended up splicing the coil to the old connectors. Also, I needed a pulley puller to get the old pulley off. With 193K on the odo my old parts were in bad shape. I replaced everything - coil, pulley, plate and belt. Fingers crossed that it stays working! Thanks again for making this video. I really appreciate it!

@PIFDIY

7 жыл бұрын

Awesome, glad to hear everything went well!

@jason11166

7 жыл бұрын

I just did the whole replacement as well and I probably couldn't have done it with out you! thanks a lot! everything is working on the compressor now but its still not blowing cold air :(. maybe it needs to be recharged ? what are you thoughts? I bought the car second hand so I don't know the history of the car.

@PIFDIY

7 жыл бұрын

Might be a slow leak. Give it a charge and let us know what happens...

@jason11166

7 жыл бұрын

alright, will see what happens! thanks

Not performing this but watched for fun after a few drinkypoo's since there's always something to learn from watching ppl work, never seen the tie wrap trick so that was a cool trick to pick up. Appreciate you taking your time to do this good sir, cheers.

@PIFDIY

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Ed!

Cool, I ordered the parts and should be getting them today or tomorrow. Crossing my fingers.

Excellent video! Thank you. My Mazda3 Sport did not need the coil but your troubleshooting helped me. When I disconnected the connector at the compressor I had correct ohms at the coil but NO POWER at the other end. I put a jumper on the battery and provided 12 volts to the coil and it clicked and engaged. As I traced the power wire there is another connector higher up. As I attempted to disconnect it the wire feel out! This was the problem. A little soldering and heat shrink tubing and she’s running ice cold again. Thanks again!

@PIFDIY

Жыл бұрын

Great troubleshooting! And good job on the repair!

thanks a lot. I was able to do it, video was very helpful

@PIFDIY

8 жыл бұрын

Awesome!

excellent video, and very helpful. I was able to replace the coil of my mazda myself, I followed all the steps exactly (I also soldered the wires) and it was very easy to do all the work with the necessary tools. It worked very well when I started it, the compressor worked, the clutch engaged, no strange noise, but no cold air, so I decided to use a can of ac-pr0, but the pressure was after the green, until the red. so don't fill in anything. The next day when I started it in the afternoon, I wanted to try again and turned on the AC, but I heard a very strange noise, so I opened the hood and discovered that the AC clutch does not spin again, it makes a grinding noise, and a few sparks come out. So I decided to leave it for the moment, I think that at the end of everything I will end up taking it to the mechanic, (that would be my last option), for now I will continue looking for videos of good people as useful as this one and see if I can fix it myself. I hope I can do it, since it is too expensive to take it to the mechanic, so my best option is to try it myself as far as I can. since I have more time than money to fix my car. and more in these difficult days. Thank you very much for such an excellent video.

@PIFDIY

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Gabriel. And good luck!

@Macky1101

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds like the compressor itself is seized. So you might need a whole new compressor. Like this guy: kzread.info/dash/bejne/imFl26ZtqrbMfLA.html

@orfeous

Жыл бұрын

Might be your wire repair that shorts to ground

Nice video bro keep up the good work

Great job, thanks!

Wow great job, and you sure made it look easy...

Very good video. It helped me a lot. Thanks

Great video. I will be using this today. Thank you!

Thanks for the video ... My coil was open as well ... I picked up an AC compressor Clutch Kit from Amazon for $42 delivered ... it came with the coil with original harness and thermal sensor and clutch ... the only place locally that had it wanted $38 for just the coil ... I'd reccomend the Kit to anyone replacing the coil ... again thanks !!!

@Hany-wf4uy

5 жыл бұрын

can you provide a link to the kit from amazon?

@johnathondennis5981

2 жыл бұрын

Provide a link to Amazon next time.. This will helps other viewers.. No point in just talking about it….. We need the link 🤦‍♂️

That was fantastic!!! Thanks. I enjoyed watching it.

What a great video, thanks I think I have this same issue and I didn’t want to buy a whole ax compressor because it’s my beater winter car but not having ac to defogg the windows gets annoying sometimes.

Thank you. I didnt do it yet... but this was a great video... you were very detailed

READ THIS. I was having an issue w my AC. It turned off in the middle of a drive and got hot. I looked under, and the clutch wasnt engaging. I used my meter to check for 12V and it was receiving no power. I ran a wire from the battery to the compressor and it engaged, so the coil was good. It ended up being the ac fuse. Not the ac coil relay, but the smaller 10a fuse. Just another solution in case you're having issues.

@khomo1010

4 жыл бұрын

Great Julian. I think that is my problem. Is this solution sustainable though? What type of a wire should I get, and I am connecting if from where on the battery, to where on the compressor?

most educational video I ever seen

Very helpful. Thanks!!!

Wow! Thank you so much! I will try this on my Mazda! It seems to be the same problem! From a Frenchman from Québec!

@PIFDIY

15 күн бұрын

Good luck!

Totally helpful brofesor, 🤘🤘🤘

Great video thankyou, hopefully they stock just coils in Australia 😊

Good job, good datail

Just curious do I have have to cut and solder the older connector or could I just use the new one? Never soldered before and not sure if using the replacement wire/sensor if it would cause issues.

Nice work. Thanks for the vid

Great video with lots of information. My only concern is rotating the crankshaft counter-clockwise. According to the service manual, that could potentially loosen the crackshaft bolt, throw the timing off, and destroy the engine. I don't mean to sound overdramatic, but isn't that a real possibility? What are your thoughts?

Super helpful thank you.

Great video! Please solder wires better though, that connection won’t stand the test of time.. thanks for your time and expertise, making this video sir.

great video thanks

So Update on the Car. I finally got the Pully off but had to buy a $30 CAN Puller to get it off sadly. Now just in the middle of getting the Coil off. Just curious do I have have to cut and solder the older connector or could I just use the new one? Never soldered before and not sure if using the replacement wire/sensor if it would cause issues.

fantastic!

Gracias por tu aporte al conocimiento.

Great, great job!! Thanks so much!

Awesome video! Thumbs way up☝ Thanks for posting! Should save me tons of money.

2007 Mazda 3s 2.3L question. 104k miles. Noisy grinding from compressor that continually got worse over 2 weeks or so until it smoked. After idling for 10 min or so, smoke coming from clutch assembly. Clutch does not engage with AC button on and max AC setting. Engine off, I can turn clutch assembly by hand. Cut the belt, it's OK. No noise or smoke. Can I just replace the clutch without removing entire compressor? I can turn it by hand but it smokes when running for a bit. Is clutch semi-engaged?

Hey, I am hoping you can help me out here. I drive a 2005 Mazda 3 and I have an issue with my AC. I noticed when I turn the AC on in the car all I am getting is warm/hot air; However, after watching this video, I have noticed that the clutch is not engaging/or spinning at all. Could that be the same problem as shown in the video or do I have something else going on?

Hello!!! I don't know if you can help me out with my compressor, in my car the clouch is working, but stop some times, turns on and off, and when that happens stop blowing cool air, so can you give some advise what could it be?

Jesus - I have an 05 Mazda 3s and I've had mechanics replace two compressors over the years and finally gave up on the A/C ever functioning properly in my car. I may tear into this this summer since this sounds exactly like my prob - the AC works great in mine whenever it decides it feels like it wants to actually run. This could be the issue given what I've had happening so definitely gonna give it a look.

Nice Omega! I take mine off when wrenching.

Thanks for sharing this video. My 07 mazda's clutch is completely not spinning by hand and/or by tapping it with a socket. Based on what you mentioned its probably something inside my compressor and not the clutch correct?

Great work! Well done 👌🏻🌠🌅🌌🕊

It's interesting that you say it's a 2.3L engine. You have a canister oil filter. We have a 2008 with the non-turbo 2.3L and it has a cartridge filter. That wouldn't seem logical to have the same engine with two different filter types. And thank you very much for the video. We had the A/C go out in about 2011, which resulted in a new compressor. Mazda covered the part (almost $800!) and I covered the labor ($125). I'm guessing that this was the issue. It's doing it again now. I think I'll try this first, after checking it of course. Thanks again!

@PIFDIY

8 жыл бұрын

Jefe, the engine is the 2.0L. I was wrong in the video.

@davecc0000

7 жыл бұрын

+Jefe von Q You can convert the 2.3 engine from paper-element filter to the spin-on can filter. Google it, there's threads discussion the conversion. You get the filter housing from the Mazda dealer for the 2.0 engine and it fits the 2.3, easy install. Less than US$100, about 1 hour.

Hey i got a question when i turn my ac on it works when im driving vut when i come to a stop it turns my car off.do u know what rhat would be ? Thank u

I have another few questions, why did you end up clipping the chord of the OEM coil and reconnecting? Is it absolutely necessary? Does the OEM have a connector end that the new coil wont have? My car seems to have the same issue as you I checked and the coil isn't spinning when the AC is turned on and going to use this video step by step to do the same to my car. Appreciate any feedback you send just unsure why if I need to cut the chord and reattach it to the new one?

@PIFDIY

5 жыл бұрын

Jared, at this point I forget if the connector ends were the same or not. The reason I clipped the connector from the OEM coil is because the OEM wiring harness (in the car) already had the high limit temp sensor in the circuit. The new coil had a new sensor hardwired into its cable, but it was unnecessary. By cutting the OEM coil cable and connector, I was able to simply plug the new coil into the car harness in the same manner as the original.

Thanks man !

thanks for this i will try this. one question, is the radiator fan powered by the a/c compressor? i compared my mazda 3 with another one and when the a/c is enabled, the radiator fan turns on. i am wondering if i have to replace this too if this is the case?

@olegc2438

8 жыл бұрын

+Michael Pantaleon did you fixed your problem?

@davecc0000

7 жыл бұрын

+Michael Pantaleon The compressor doesn't control the fan but both the compressor and fan are turned on (should be) when you press the "AC" button on the climate control panel. Is the fan fuse good? If you let the car sit and idle for a half hour can you see the fan turn on at all? If not you might have a bad fan or fan control module. You can check the fan by disconnecting it from its connector and using a multimeter, check the resistance between the 2 terminals in the connector. Almost any reading other than infinite (not "OL" or infinite displayed on the meter) should mean the fan is probably OK.

Awesome job! Would this work on the 2010 Mazdaspeed 3? My compressor stoped spinning

@3dGardillaxo

3 жыл бұрын

Does it work with the speed?

Great Video, dropped you a like

very good

Bought coil from ebay from the US shipped to canada in about 5 days, used the connector on top of compressor(the one shown on video) and disconnected the closest connector to the coil since it doesn't fit and need to crimp/solder/marets. Reused the old belt: loosen the small pulley and pull it a bit out then turn the motor with the wrench for the tire lugs(same size) , the belt comes out even if you just put a screwdriver and turn it will come out. Putting it on is more difficult especially if you can't pass those tiewraps. Just make sure when you put the belt to align the grooves!!! otherwise it's a bitch. With verification for 12 volts and checking all connections for continuity took me about 10 hours in the backyard. Both connectors need to be pressed on the side(lever) and pulled and can be disconnected with one hand if done properly. Make sure to get good ground when testing the coil and to clean behind the coil after removing it with screwdriver you cant test for continuity to ground to make sure. Video is great most difficult was to discconect for me the small connector close to the coil( which you don need to do if you just cut it). By the way the coil that is sold online seems to have a thermal switch which I did not know where to put. make sure you have no loose wires when testing they get between belt and pulleys.

Where did the thermal sensor go? Does it have a spot somewhere or is it just tucked in someplace?

Great video. Lot of people in the comments section are having good luck following these instructions but what PN are people using? Autozone, Oreilly's, and RockAuto do not have a replacement part. Only place I've found is on Amazon and I'm a little hesitant to buy my car parts from them (no experience from them though). Any help is appreciated.

Mine cut out a while back... mechanic said it's the compressor but it makes no noises.. nothing it operates just fine the air just isn't cold..

I have the same exact problom , going to order the parts and hope this fixes it but quick question, do i need to buy a new belt ? or the original is fine

@PIFDIY

7 жыл бұрын

You could try to work the original off and re-use it but I would recommend getting a new belt.

Where did you get the new coil? I'm having a hard time finding one for my 08 mazda 3

@ipod4gvids

3 жыл бұрын

amazon buddy

@karlniedzielski12

2 жыл бұрын

I would recommend finding an actual OEM one on eBay. After having a couple of the cheap amazon ones go, I found the original manufacturer version on eBay.

Nice ziptie trick. I might use that as well. Are there any other methods if that fails for me?

Can you post a link to where you bought the new coil? I think I have the exact same problem

If the radiator fan is not working would it stop the compressor from turning on?

FYI, 2007 Mazda 3 and I followed these instructions and got the coil replaced but it turned out it wasn't the coil, it was the compressor heat sensor that comes with the coil that was at fault. This part comes with the coil so I suggest replacing it as well, you would just need to remove the bolts to drop the ac compressor without removing the ac lines and you can change it from there.

@Macky1101

2 жыл бұрын

Where is the heat sensor on the original coil/compressor? So you are saying, in this video, he should not have cut the wire/splice where he did, but instead, keep the little "bulb" heat sensor? But I don't see the heat sensor on the old coil?

@Macky1101

2 жыл бұрын

Oh. I see. It's all the way at the back-top of the compressor and tucked into a hole/slot. But how do you know if the heat sensor is faulty?

@Macky1101

2 жыл бұрын

Do you mean take out the 4 bolts holding the compressor to the car COMPLETELY? And let the compressor dangle-on by the AC lines? But how do you test to confirm the heat sensor is faulty? Oh. A continuity test. The heat sensor is like a fuse. So no current through it means it's broken?

Thanks

@PIFDIY

4 ай бұрын

Thanks so much for the donation! That's the first "Super Thanks" that I received. I honestly didn't know what it was until I googled it. Anyway, thanks and I hope the car is running well!

Where did y’all buy the coil at? Can’t find it anywhere?

Very nice video, thanks! I'm replacing the compressor with a new one ($324)on my kid's 2006 Mazda 3. So far (before charging the system) the new compressor clutch isn't engaging. I'm told it could be because the system isn't yet charged (low pressure) or a faulty relay switch. Had the same electrical connection issue as you. Also, I used the same trick to get the belt on. Unfortunately the belt is off 1 rib on the compressor pulley. Does anyone know if the belt can be adjusted or will I have to cut this one and start over??

@davecc0000

7 жыл бұрын

With engine OFF, if you lean on the belt (using a tool of some kind--screwdriver handle, open-end wrench, etc.) on the left side of the compressor pulley and turn the crank pulley with socket wrench, I've aligned the belt before. Takes some time...

@nanajagon9778

5 жыл бұрын

2006 madza 2 alternator belt fixing

My AC clutch just took a shit today. And I was just about to bring it in to have the transmission rebuilt. Now I might just junk it