@gblpst81 If you look around 2:17 the smoke coming off the drill is from the cutting oil. Video has been editted to hold your attention!

Very impressive, the jigs, fixtures, and tooling that you have designed and fabricated in your many videos. I always pick up a new idea from you, to use in my own shop!

@josemiguelfv I am using cutting fluid. The smoke you see is from the neat cutting oil.

@zeedee21 The advatage of the method I used is an accurate profile can be made on the cutter.

@doommaster9000 Sorry not on facebook but I have a blog. myfordboy.blogspot.com

See my video Cutting Parallel Depth Bevel Gears at Home, I'll add a link to this video.

@dan10400 I am using the method Ivan descibes in his book but used a flat holder and put the clearance angle on the button instead. Is it working out the button size you are having problems with or the construction?

@TitusLivy777 The button tool refers to the small discs which are shaped to the profile required and mounted at the correct distance appart to form the cutting tool. all the information was from Ivan laws book Gears and Gear cutting. Well worth buying it only costs amout £6.00, try Amazon.

Fantastic tutorial on how to make a gear cutter. Keep up the great work.

@snoebay88 Here in the UK gauge plate is sold in sheet form. Gauge plate is a sheet version of what you would call drill rod.

Dude, that screaming noise is your HSS tools screaming for COOLANT!! Nice vid gets you another thumbs up! Thanks for posting.

The cutter is made of gauge plate. It can be shaped in it's supplied soft state and hardened by heat as shown.

Very neat, the video was a joy to watch. I am setting up my 1920's lathe at the moment and hopem to lean to use it soon.

The information came from Ivan law's book Gears and gear cutting. The book is very good on gear cutting and only costs about £6. There are tables showing sizes for 20 and 30 deg pressure angles. The steel is gauge plate; silver steel in sheet form.

@apowellz In order to give clearance to the tool it is not rotated about its own centre but is offset in its arbour.

Hey!! some of our gear was bought in the '60's, if you dont mind, V8 !! And great work, Myfordboy, keep going!

Gauge plate is silver steel (drill rod) but in a bar form. You can shape it then heat to red and quench which hardens it. Can be tempered also.

Yes the center drill is a short drill used to give the larger drills an accurate location. Also used for making a center in material for turning between centers,

@c4fishfood I didn't have any used oil but that is what is often reccomended. A larger amount than shown is the video prefered. I think I have better results using water. The cutter shown was a little soft.

I am in awe, very fine craftmanship.

The cutter is made from guage plate ( drill rod if you are in the US) After shaping it can be hardened as shown in the video.

@Grousuba Ok. You are correct, but the error between the circular form used and the true involute shape is very small. Much less than the error accepted when a commercial cutter is used to cut gears with a range of tooth number.

If you mean the mill it's a Raglan. No longer made, you would have to search for a used one. The lathe of coarse is a Myford, model ML10 also no longer made.

@GeneralG1810 Its normal practice to start with a smaller drill to guide the larger one. Too much power is needed to go straight to the large one.

@erklaerbaer01 It is usual to anneal after hardening but I don't usualy bother. I have no problems with it being too brittle. saw is my own design.

It is based on the Kennedy one. I increased the depth and length of the saw and used a fabricated construction. The Kennedy one has a cast body. I didn't use any damping like the Kennedy has, works fine without it. I didn't make any drawings, made it up as I went along.

@BarneySaysHi I do. The smoke you see from the drilling is from the cutting fluid.

@AZAKO80 Not realy. High tesion steel would be hard to machine. The gauge plate is like regular steel but can be hardened.

You are of course correct it is normal pratice to temper after hardening. I don't usualy bother though and seem to get away with it.

rEALLY IMPRESSED WITH THE HACKSAW

If I hadn't gone into printing as a trade, I likely would have become a machinist! I hope to set up a small work place someday to learn something of this skill.

@Xraller Its a ceramic heat reflecting material. Kaowool or simular.

Love the old myfords...you can really get stuff done really quickly!!

engineers rock.... we have the oddest collection of tools, he has a lathe but lacks a band saw so he has a jerry rigged hack saw. I have a surface planar, a dremil and a hot air rework station but for about 4 years I had no claw hammer.

@dragula159 I don't have oxy acetylene available. I would still use the propane though, its a larger flame and would heat the metal more evenly.

The tool made is a flycutter and the method shown produces the correct tooth profile.

@gibbo1112 The smoke you see is comming from the cutting oil. Look at 2:10 and you can see red cutting oil on the bore.

It's a ceramic material called Kaowool. Torch is a Sievert propane one.

Hi again,Thank you for the information, I am ashamed to say I have the book you mentioned on my book shelf and from the condition of it I do not think I have ever opened it! However it shall be compulsive reading for the forseeable future.

It's just held by pressure from the rotating center in the tailstock.

Seriously, dude, I am jealous! I love this kind of stuff.

@impavitus Kasenit case hardening powder only gives a very thin hard surface. It wouldn't have survived cutting all the teeth. Using a high carbon steel makes it hard throughout.

I have a good selection of involute gear cutters but not one for this size. Cost was not justified for two gears. I wanted to try to make own just for the hell of it.

Nice little lathe and skills ;)

I always use a piece of wire to suspend the piece in the oil and keep it moving so it doesn't heat up the oil around the part and used oil with carbon in it also helps

The cutter is made of silver steel which can be machined and then hardened to make the cutter. The actual worm is made of steel

@Grousuba Ivolute refers to the tooth form the cutter will make.

Hei master, very instructive ...Thank you for sharing, your work is very precious... see next video... Salut

@apowellz I used an offset of 1/4". Not too critical.

Great video as always - a joy to watch - i also love your power Hacksaw thats cool

@dubphat It is good practice to temper but I don't usualy bother.

Awesome video, can't wait for the next one!

@dlstb 6 years machine shop, engine restoration, Rolls Royce and Bentley. Most of our kit was 1950's or older, with the biggest lathe being an 8m bed toss. From there I went out as an onsite fitter doing in situ line boring on plant. Yes I agree oil makes a difference to cutter lifespan but not to the sound... That was all I was saying. No offence intended, lol.

I like your cut off saw.

@myfordboy I understand that. The tooth profile this cutter would generate would be circular not involute.

Used motor oil is recommended, I didn't have any. I often use water.

@jlg4880 No, although it is normal practice to do so.

No it's diametric pitch which is basicaly the size of the teeth. The larger the DP the smaller the teeth.

I would have started with a high quality washer of close to the size needed. You will find that washers are very cheap if purchased from the correct sources. And, it really does not matter where you are at when the suppliers are in China. But, you get what you pay for. I want cheap as whatever I am going to produce will always be used for just a one off project, proof of concept, and nothing more.

It is not essential to have the buttons exactly in the center of the blank ( though desirable) as the depth of cut in the gear blank is less than the cutting part of the tool. There is a slight error in the shape of the involute curve using this method but it is very small. All the details are in Ivan laws book, Gears and gear cutting, essential reading!

@astriknon Drilling steel like that the best practice is to use a continuous flow of coolant/cutting oil.

A couple of tips, a good quality cutting oil or flood coolant along with reduced spindle speeds as you increase drill sizes will improve cutting and prolong tool life, also if you can, use a larger container to quench the workpiece so you can stir as you quench, this will reduce the risk of cracks forming on the same note if theres a cold breeze outside theres another risk of cracking the workpiece, keep it wrapped in rag until you can clean it up and temper it, you did temper it ?? regards :-)

Gret stuff, can't wait for the gear cutting video :)

Thank you for bring this to my attention. I filled a copyright issue and the offending video has been removed.

Quenching should be done with the part moving through the oil rapidly rather than simply plunging to the bottom of the container! Great job to make this yourself though!

@AZAKO80 High carbon steel, sold as guage plate.

(moved ) As a reply to all the lube questions, look at the swarf colour, it is not turning yellow/blue, so it is not getting too hot for the perfectly acceptable marginal lubrication, and Mr Myfordboy isnt wiping excess lube off the wall, his glasses, Mrs Myfordboy etc etc

3:01 Finally... cutting oil... I use it for drilling too!

@PLUSHAIRPLANECARPET No ,ceramic material.

@v8bmwboy 43 years in the machining trade. If you used flood coolant you won't hear that noise and your drills will last more than one hole.

@myfordboy Thanks again for providing such helpful info! Your KZread channel has been a real find for me! Please keep up the good work! Oh...and if you ever have the time and the inclination to make a video re making button tools, I'm sure many viewers would benefit. Thanks again!

lol @ the increasing angry noises as the drill size goes up

Thanks for reply, I genuinely did not know if there was some technical reason, nice to know.

Can you offer any more details on the silver steel button tools? I have the Ivan Law book on gearcutting, who describes a similar method but I can't seem to find or how to make these button cutters. Thanks for your videos.

Cool video

They are not available here in the UK

@quatfro Gauge plate i.e. oil hardening tool steel

@myfordboy wierd, the stuff i use never does that... it lubricates so well it just doesnt get hot

A very nice video as always, I think you are sparing with the cutting oil so as not to upset your wife with the smell. thanks for sharing. :)

@myfordboy thanks for the reply since I have an old can of that stuff in my garage.

Very cool, I like it. Where can I get a machine like yours? what's the brand name? I would appreciate if you can give me a link to where I can buy it. Thanks.

very quick reply thank you

Nice work!

I don't have a lathe, so don't know, but is center drilling done to help prevent larger bits from wandering when drilling into the material?

A little more cutting oil during the drilling process would have been nice! My teeth hurt from the sound. Why did you start with square stock instead of round ?

I didn't even have to scroll down. I just KNEW this would be among the top comments. Oh KZread.

GREAT JOB!!!

@Morkvonork I don't belive the dimentions change with hardening.

DOESN'T ANYONE READ THE DESCRIPTION UNDER THE VIDEO ?

@vx-iidu

4 жыл бұрын

OK Boomer

Can you please provide more information about the button tool you made? What is a button tool? What is its cutting profile? How did you make it? If you have the time to point me toward more info on the internet, I'll be very grateful. In any case, thanks for your help!

This is only an approximation of the involute form, true involute is a varying radius.

now that was slick!

have you ever tryed to use oxyacetylene for heating up the metal its hotter then propane

Not sure what people are saying about the oil. If you look in the hole you will see he has coated the inside with oil.

@snoebay88 That's just the way it sounds when your drilling steel, oil would have made no difference to the sound. (6 years engineering in Oxford UK)

why new oil for the quench? i interested in making some hardened parts, and have typically seen recommendations to use old motor oil due to the carbon content.

@ronald44181000 Its my own design. The hex bar arrangment is based on a Kennedy. I have plans for sale for this.

That's the way I harden the tips of my punches, except I use light tool oil.

Well done bro

How come the blank doesn't rotate on the mandrel when the tool hits it? is there some sort of lock I can't see or are you just using pressure from the tail stock?