Thank you Mr Sorrells.

Thanks Walter, you sure share a lot of content with us and it's helped my knife game immensely. Love the occasional chuckles you give us too!

Thanks Walter -- I've been waiting for this one.

Wow - this vid came in at a perfect time for some blades im working on. Thanks as always Walter

Great video very informative and you have one of those relaxing voices that you find yourself getting lost in the vid always a thumbs up for you.

Great video! Useful, straight forward and laid out nicely. Thanks! I found an old knife I started making years ago and think I’m going to go with premed brass rod.

Supreme

Thanks Walter. Great video....

Thanks again for great tips!

Always informative!

The first set of knives that i made a couple of years ago, i used 4 mm machine screws with extra lenth and used nuts at both ends to assemble them initially, then cut those off and shaped my handles. They worked really well and no threads or air gaps are visible as the gaps are filled with epoxy.

Wow , that is a nice video.... next one please...

Thanks a lot. I really learned a lot.

Thank you!

I'm waiting for my copper Corby bolts 3/16" and 1/4" also a mosaic pin.... Very useful video, can't wait for the other ones!

Thank you good job.

It is nice and cheap to put a handle. I have few blades and use a feasible handle to work with it.

If worried about a threaded connector loosening, use a drop of threadlock on it when assembling. Another possibility for a fastener is rivet and rove, comes from boat building.

Love your channel! How about a hidden tang antler handle knife someday?

Good round-up! tube rivets can be expanded to some degree with pins with cones ground on the end, I have used copper water pipe/tube for lanyard holes but countersunk the scale and flared it out a lot with a ball pein hammer and a tube flaring tool (a big pin with a cone ground onto the end) thread-locker goes hand in hand with threaded fasteners IMHO, and epoxy goes hand in hand with most fasteners too, except when it doesn't. plain pins (metal, wood or plastic) would probably benefit from having grooves cut in them to hold on to the epoxy more.

@apexedgesharpening2005

3 жыл бұрын

Can a hole starting tap work for this task?

Great video! Where did you get the threaded inserts? Thanks!

Thanks, did you just make the arbors to flare the hollow stainless tubes ?

thanks

am working on my belt grinder my problem is the fram now can i find some plans or drawings???

👍👍👍👍👍👍

is 90MnCrV8 good for short knives90MnCrV8

What about rivets? Great videos, thanks!

The only problem with using a Mill is you have to make sure it is centre cutting, or drill a pilot hole first.

The mosaic pin Shadow in the thumbnail is on its way to me.... Couldn't pass up the chance to own a blade from one of Walter's videos.

I was going to ask if re peening the rivets or the tubes after grinding would be a good idea... But then I realised if they were gunna come out it would happen on the grinder

I am using charcoal and water to quench 6150 and my blade didn't crack it just bent so is it beter to apply clay and get soft spine or full quencing and risking blade bending but if not then getting spingy blade that won't bend upon stress?

@jhonnylacksville6765

6 жыл бұрын

Dusan Pavlovic normalise it. Heat then cool naturally to receive stress first, then the stress from heat treat won't expose those stresses

@dusanpavlovic2201

6 жыл бұрын

jhonny lacksville I am doing stock removal so there is no need for that but still 6150 in water has to bend so what do i go i can't band it back quench is too quick

@jhonnylacksville6765

6 жыл бұрын

Dusan Pavlovic you could try oil quench. But stick removal creates alot of heat, and in abnormal patterns. This is where your stress is coming from. Honestly, just run a normalising process before heat treat. Alot of metals prefer oil quench by the way. You sure it's 6150?

@jhonnylacksville6765

6 жыл бұрын

Dusan Pavlovic wow dude, impressive metal! BTW hears the numbers www.steelforge.com/alloy-steel-6150/

@tristanberke8759

6 жыл бұрын

when you quench a knife you have a few seconds to straighten out the blade while the metalurgical magic is taking place right after the quench as ling as you don't quench it too long. but 90% of this hobby is trial and error as I have learned over the years. and you never fail anything in knifemaking. you only succeed in finding ways that don't work.

how about short pins covered by wooden plugs contrasting the handle. say maple plugs in walnut

So you don't use expoxy?

Why is versatile a minus?

great vid. should I be using epoxy with peened pins

@apexedgesharpening2005

3 жыл бұрын

You can but it doesn’t really matter. It’s held in well. You should be fine without epoxy but doesn’t mean you can’t use it!

I can't find anyone to tell me why to use pins at all? Modern epoxies have +3400psi... With the exception of maybe batoning, who is going to use their knives so harshly that it won't hold?

PITA = Pain In the Neck?? ;-)

Same boring knife over and over and over again...