In this example with a "tower" there's a slicer solution that doesn't require a change in a model. Use cylindrical modifier that goes to the bottom and change infill to 100% under that protrusion (or play with other parameters). Very useful especially if you use someone else's stl.

@RoseKindred

2 ай бұрын

Can I ask what slicer you are using? That seems like a great tip and I am not familiar with it, but I only use cura for FDM.

2 ай бұрын

@@RoseKindred You could try Prusaslicer or Orcaslicer for this. :)

@RoseKindred

2 ай бұрын

@ Ah, thank you. I have tried PS before but, honestly, I could not get the hang of it. Probably because I learned with Cura. I'll look more into Orca though, I have heard good things.

@tharukakuruppu

2 ай бұрын

@@RoseKindred Hi Rose. In cura you can use "support blocker" to create a cube that intersects with the model and then use "modify settings for overlaps" in "per model settings" to change in infill density

@RoseKindred

2 ай бұрын

​@@tharukakuruppu Ah, thank you. I never tried that way. I will look into it when I can. Typically I print with higher infill anyway, but I have noticed on my ant bait station there is a weakness in the screwhole posts I made. They looked much like this "tower" example.

Literally the best design video I have seen in months. I never would have thought of this and it helps so much.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks!

@Rampamrampapapapam

2 ай бұрын

The real "(re)design for 3d print" tutorial. That simple, that genius. Sometimes I do similar tricks, sometimes not. Should be shown to design team when you are "the printer guy" in company.

@Rampamrampapapapam

2 ай бұрын

The real "(re)design for 3d print" tutorial. That simple, that genius. Sometimes I do similar tricks, sometimes not. Should be shown to design team when you are "the printer guy" in company.

Some time ago I helped a friend with her mechatronics thesis. She designed a robot to be 3D printed, and I was the one who offered help with that, otherwise it would've been very expensive for her. Unfortunately, neither she or I were the ones to design the parts, rather her teammate who was absolutely zero skilled in 3D modeling, specially for additive manufacturing. Had I found this video back then, it would've been so useful, since his designs were extremely flawed precisely because of a bad implementation of pegs and whatnot. This was such a simple yet extremely effective solution, I'm definitely adding to my repertoire.

@phil2082

2 ай бұрын

No one teaches engineers this very well, but: Use a peg for location, and a screw to hold something down. One screw and two pegs will locate and hold something against a flat surface.

I have been 3d printing for 3 years now. As a retired engineer, I can see you know very well what you are talking about. You have got a new sub. Bravo!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks! We learned the hard way here. : )

To further increase strenght.. print orientation so you have all the loads winthin a layer plane. For that part sideways print will need some support for the bin but it will not snap between layers. Much stronger. I'd also recommend adding a hole on the pin and insert a bolt/screw/rod afterward. The screw will also compress the layers resisting layer separation more if any tension appears. For really study pieces, the last resort before CNC is to have some metal hardware prepared (like some flat stock with a bolt welded, or tapped hole). then design the model to fit the metal hardware inside. Some clever orientation let you pause the print -> insert hardware -> unpause, having a complete 3dprinted outside. Pin down orientation would be beneficial for such hardware but will net more support on the flat face in air. Also in the improved sliced part, the top part has a layer or two of infill. I would increase top and bottom layers so there is no infill within shell wall. Als for using inside supports for shelled part - use 0 contact distance (soluble), also increase support thickness, alternate lines.. so the inside suppor can do something and not get loose and rattly inside. Another strength increase trick is to print a shell with a hole somewhere. Fill the inside with epoxy resin. Bonus points to add metal rods where possible as well.

@noxenia

13 күн бұрын

I think you have a lot of interestimg knowledge. Thanks!

@AsiAzzy

13 күн бұрын

@@noxenia Thank you for apreciation. I am passionate about mechanical engineering and i do have studies for it (phd).

That’s a pretty smart way to solve the layer adhesion issue AND to use the infill material in a better way, thanks for sharing your knowledge on the topic!

Nice! Intentionally designing for 3D printing makes a massive difference. I've found some engineered prints can be nearly as strong as metal.

@tomekpeki

2 ай бұрын

LOL NOPE. Lets compare polycarbonate (one of the strongest material you can print) VS 6061-T6 aluminium alloy (one of the weakest popular metal alloys) Ultimate tensile strength: ~60 vs 310 MPa (PLA ~37MPa) Yield t. s. : ~80 vs 276 MPa (PLA ~55MPa) Modulus of Elasticity : 3 vs 69 GPa (PLA can be ~13 GPa) So you can see the difference is like 3 to 20 times in "strength". If you take into accound weak bonding betwen layers (70% of strength max, usualy around 40-50%) and fact that you can use good steel instead of average aluminium, the difference will be like 10 to ~200 times...

@DrewLSsix

2 ай бұрын

​@@tomekpekiyou missed the point entirely. Congratulations.

@tomekpeki

2 ай бұрын

@@DrewLSsix Why? Maybe I wasn't specific enough... I fully agree that well designed (with 3d printing principles in mind) part will be waaaaay stronger than just designed part. I just don't agree that polimer can be nearly as strong as metal, because it is not true due to properties of materials. Those parts could be equally functional when metal strength is not needed or when you make fdm part way bigger. I just saw it worth mentioning because difference in strength can be like 2 orders of magnitude big, so imo comparing this type of materials isn't really adequate.

@allthingscyre7177

2 ай бұрын

@@DrewLSsix Nah, he didn’t. The point was that geometry is the only thing that determines an object’s strength. He articulated in a very detailed manner why that is incorrect. It is possible (probable even) that the original comment missed the point, as silly as that is. I suspect the idea that was ineffectively communicated was that there are many functional parts which don’t need to be made of metal as long as the design process is adequate. Granted, this is only an educated guess, but it seems unreasonable to say the guy regurgitating relevant data sheets (in the way which most advocates what was originally said, btw) is the one who lacks understanding of what we’re talking about.

@clayton2347

2 ай бұрын

@@tomekpeki wait a second... you're saying plastic isn't as strong as metal? I'm gonna need to seem some sources to back up those numbers

Very happy I came across your video. Extremely simplified explanations that're easy to understand. Thanks for the tips mate!

I like the way you approached this. And mentioned the sequential parts for the layer adhesion.

that was some really valuable knowledge. Massive respect, please keep on making more!

Great detail, very useful. And your production tip is amazing!! Thank you!!! Watch to the end!

Oh man, that's a gamechanger. I was under the impression that slicers ignored any internal geometry like that. I think it is something I saw in a video or read somewhere ages ago that got imprinted that misconception on my brain. Thank you for this!

great idea with the sequential production. I'll have to look if my slicer can handle this way. thank a lot for your sharing.

Been printing for years and actually learned something. You should have way more followers. Liked and subscribed 👌

Brother, I hadn't thought of trying this. I'm on it, thanks!

Great Tip. Really enjoyed your format and video length. Just right. Thanks for sharing.

Awesome stuff thank you. I caught your video on my feed last night and immediately went back to the drawing board on a part I designed. Using this same technique I revised the geometry in Fusion and did a new test print and it's essentially unbreakable now by hand. I'd have to take a hammer to it so thank you very much for this quick tip. Really good stuff 👍

Great tip, never thought of doing that before but makes perfect sense, thanks! 👍

That is some good information. Very inciteful and very well presented. Everything you say makes sense but certainly isn't obvious. Thank you for the video

very useful information, I've printed thousands of parts and have never thought to add internal structures/walls in increase part strength... bahh. thank you!

Good video mate, simple and efficient. Thank you.

Thank you! Great advices!

Thanks for the tip about the layer adhesion on multiple parts. I’ve actually had this happen to me where a print of 2 worked fine, but a print of 10 failed. I bet this is why

I’m about to start running production prints and was thinking about this very same problem earlier today. I appreciate the valuable insight you shared. Can’t wait to see how it translates to my first production run!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Let us know how it goes! Thanks for watching.

that's amazing information! thank you for sharing it and explaining it so well

This is unbelievably valuable information, thank you for sharing! A new standard in design for 3DP!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks for letting us know!

Great insight! Thanks for sharing!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Glad to hear you took something away from this video you can use!

Two great sugestions - thanks for a simple yet straight to the point video - kudos!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks!

Wow, what an eye opening video. Thanks for the heads up about how they need to be printed one at a time. Sound's like maybe you learned that the hard way.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

I learn everything the hard way. haha. Desperation can be far more valuable than education sometimes.

Concise and helpful. Thanks for showing this.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Good info. Clear, to the point, no jackass dramatics. Thanks.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Haha

Love this 🤘🤘 I just had this issue with some yard signs I made for my daughter's birthday party. I thought something similar would be beneficial, so nice to see the confirmation on that!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

I'm glad to hear you made some use of this tip! Thanks for letting us know!

Please more of that mix, design, slice, tips. Abo out!

Quick, to the point informative video; and I don’t feel like I missed anything either. That was refreshing.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Glad to hear it!

Very interesting! Quite a few fusion workflow tips in here i would've never considered - thank you!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Awesome! I learned the hard way : )

Really great Advice! I'll be putting it into action!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks for your comment! I'm glad you have an application in mind.

Thanks, I just used this in a little hand crank for my bandsaw tensioner. Printing now!

@octothorpian_nightmare

2 ай бұрын

Well, it finished printing and holy cow is this thing strong! Definitely adding this to my bag-o-tricks, thank you so much!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

That's awesome! Thanks for the update! Glad to hear you got some good results.

Excellent ideas and honsetly the best practical ideas I'v seen in a while.

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks Terry!

Yeah I did came across such similar issues.. we just have to bend our mind to way of design for print instead of design for machining😊. Thanks for making this video ❤

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Yeah, I'm always getting onto engineers about machinability! Now it's Printablitiy.

Instantly subscribe. Great explanation! I learned a lot :)

Really useful concepts there, thanks for sharing!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks for letting us know!

Great idea. Thank you.

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

interesting ideas! I'm fortunate to only have to print the things I design myself, and I realized looking at how odd the example part seemed to me that it's a kind of feature I have practically subconsciously avoided, probably realizing it would not come out strong without even thinking about it, which is wild. extra note- turning off the cooling fan and extruding 20-50 degrees above what the filament recommends, plus lowering layer height to 50% nozzle width and upping extrusion width to 125-150% is a great way to make large or multiple parts still have good adhesion, though it will degrade bridging, angled overhands, and surface finish.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll give that a try.

thanks for the great tip i can use it right away

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

That's awesome! I'm glad it was useful.

First time I see this. It's brilliant!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks Nick!

Nice video and explanation. I’ve learned something new today. New to 3D printing

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

3D printing is straight forward and pretty easy compared to machining. But when something goes wrong, there are so many factors to getting a good print. We struggle sometimes. Glad to hear you are getting involved!

Good vid. Thank you!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Well explained and a nice new way of thinking I'll definitely add that to my toolbag. Thanks!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

You look a little young for modeling and printing, and typing. haha Thanks for your comment!

@collie147

Ай бұрын

Ha. @@ChipMonkeys

I learned a lot. Changed my notification setting to all 😁. Can't wait to learn more from you guys. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us 🙏.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Never underestimate the power of desperation! Glad to hear you liked it.

@JuanAdam12

2 ай бұрын

I learned about five things in this short video. Extremely informative.

Thanks. That was very informative and useful.

Great info! Thank you 🙏

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

I hope we can make more! Thanks for your comment!

Very cool idea. This was awesome! I almost never do this, but you earned a sub from the first video of yours I've watched.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks Man!

The printer slowing down for the short layer times of that post has the biggest effect, much more so than the previous layer being cool. Pressing in a metal pin or screw from the back will give you ultimate strength and let you print many very quickly.

Good tips, thanks.

Great tips. Let me just be a bit nerdy and add to this that parts printed with a larger nozzle, such as 0.8mm, are generally stronger than those printed with a smaller nozzle, like 0.4mm. Let's compare your part (the pin you broke) with a hook, designed for wall mounting and hanging items ( just to make a point here, and draw from some data my company did quite recently). The advantages of using a larger nozzle become evident through specific tests: Tensile and Flexural tests that are assessing the structural integrity and resistance to bending forces critical for a hook/pin bearing loads, larger nozzle prints show improved layer adhesion, enhancing strength under tensile and bending stresses. 2. Evaluating the hook's toughness and its capacity to absorb energy (impact test) without fracturing, larger nozzle prints are likely to exhibit better resistance due to stronger layer bonds. 3. Determining the hook's endurance under repeated loading, the enhanced layer cohesion from a larger nozzle contributes to a longer fatigue life. 4. Measuring how the hook deforms over time ( a form of creep test) under a constant load, prints from a larger nozzle might offer superior performance because of improved material continuity. These tests did highlight the strengths of using a larger nozzle for printing objects like hooks and pins, emphasizing durability, strength, and resistance to deformation. But its a quite big However….. however using larger nozzles on smaller parts can be challenging, often requiring multiple fans, even with ABS. But smart design methods like you demonstrated here can really compensate for a lot of this, again really great content 👌

You sorta glossed over the part about filleting the internal sharp corners, but that's also a very good design rule for 3D printed parts! Glad you showed it!

Thanks for the tips great video

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Good info!

internal fillets on the wall thickness sounds amazing to reduce stress concentrations!!!!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

I still haven't broke that part. I really thought it was going to break. haha

great video. 👍👍

"I designed my part so strong I can't break it by hand". Man that's not embarrassing, that's awesome!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Hahaha! I really thought it was going to break

Very informative! Thank you!

Great tips!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks!

Nice vid, thank you for aharing

Plus, for some uses, I make a hole with nut socket, thru all the "chimney", to reinforce it with long M2 or M3 screw. We even make serious mechanical parts for clients with this method.

clean the fingerprints on your controller cool technique. i just do this with loop thickness but might come in handy for different use cases!

Great information!🖖

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Glad you think so!

Good job!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thanks!

Great tips. Really wish CADs can incorporate (and extend upon) the support generation features of slicers since it's IMO a step in designing and not manufacturing. Doing so also means we can have an easier time to do analysis (center of mass/FEM etc.) on the parts.

Nice Vid 👍 Have a nice weekend 😊🐈🐾🐾

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Thank you! You too!

Nice video thanks

Great tip. Never considered that for strength before. I have been relying on thixk top and bottom layers for the weak points of my tall and narrow parts. Will see if there is any where I can use this design improvement. The last part about sequential printing. I have done this for a long time on parts I must guarantee to have smooth outer surfaces.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

That’s awesome! Thanks for the comment!

thanks chip

Use prusaslicer (or the similar slicers) and enable to ensure vertical Shell thickness??? You can also use modifiers to have more perimeters or to ensure more vertical Shell thickness in specific parts

Great video

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks!

Love this. Have just the part that needs redesigning

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Let us know who it goes! I am really interested

I often change the axis of the part and split them, so I can glue them later together, it is way stronger than if i would print it horizontal. The superglue by them self is like an extra layer you can't break. And the fact if you print your model on the side, you can't break also the little handle. But i do it only for mechanical things which have to be strong. Also, I print them slower for better layer connection and as minimum fan speed as possible, to let not cool down the lower layer so fast. Sorry for my bad English, it's not my first language . I just work as innovation developer and consultant, so i also have to work very often with 3D Printers but also way other filaments in the high temperature zones like PI or PAI or PFA/PVDF. But it works for every filament in the same way if you want to get the max out of it.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks for the tips! Your English is great.

this stuff should be optimized by the slicers so they maximize strength

Great video. I learned several things that I will use moving forward! Thanks! I'm a new subscriber! //Lars

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Hey Lars! Thanks for subscribing! We are looking forward to making more videos. It's a nice outlet from the just making parts in the shop.

I get the premise of the video, but generally hollowing a part out will make it a lot slower to print because those inside model faces will print with outside surface speeds. (Not sure if s3d allows you to tweak those individually). I think you would have gotten the same result by just putting a hole through the shaft on your part and leaving the rest solid. Make use of your slicer differentiating between outside and inside walls as well as infill speed and the infill being properly connected to the inside walls.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

I saw some video with that technique. Some other slicers seem to have other options that might help too. But, like you said, this video was more about a concept, than an example. Thanks for your comment! I never thought people would watch it. haha

Cool, I was just thinking of adding tubes to a print I was doing to add strength yesterday, if you can believe it lol! BTW, Watchtower background, I have some history with that.

@ChipMonkeys

17 күн бұрын

That’s great! Let us know how it works!

Smart!

Great video! :)

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks!

Lots of good tips here. I do got to do this sometimes but then a voice in the back of my head says; you cant do that because the top surface wont bridge well over that gap, (without infill) but ofcourse theres not reason you cant use internal supports! I stopped using supports that build off of the model some time ago because I had so many poor results trying to remove all reamains of the support, but ofcourse that doesnt apply to internal stuff. Good to have a reminder. ------------ Another simple way you can achieve the same thing is by making a small hole in your peg that goes all the way down to just above the base of your model. Ideally this hole has a radius equal to that of your peg minus your intended perimiter/wall loop thickness. Though you can just play with the loop count till they match.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

You're correct! I saw some using that method. I'm trying to introduce a concept of modeling. This was not the best example. : )

@nehok

2 ай бұрын

@ChipMonkeys haha no it's all good I understood what your trying to say I think. I have been thinking lately about how it is probably best to avoid Infill from the conception of how you will model most parts. In terms of being able to control where the internal bracing is relative to what you are actually doing with the part, cross braceing, things like the fillets in the internal corners, But also in terms of potentially making the switch to other production methods easier like injection molding, machining etc. As a way of potentially limiting how far you part might stray from something that wouldn't require total re design to your assembly to dfm it properly. Anyway, I'm an industrial designer so that's how I'm thinking about it.

Would it be possible to make a video on designing a part to be welded such as a stand or something from square tubing and then show how you could lay that into a cut sheet? For instance, if you wanted to make a 40”x30” table frame from 2” square tubing how would you go about designing it? Pipe command, or extruding out the profile of the tubing, or something else? Then, how would you turn that into a simple blue print for someone in the shop to cut your material?

5:34 Most people never mess with the cooling fan speeds, but in this scenario turning the fan real low or off, would work great in keeping the "part material" at the right temp to keep it soft .

Very nice tips, Slicing softwares can be improved a lot

I thought of modeling the inside of a part before but never actually done it.. really need to give that shell modifier a try 🤔

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Let us know about your results!

I've never done internal structures like that, because I thought it would make the solid non-manifold for some reason and create errors in the slicer! Good to know!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

I know what you’re saying, I think it has to do with the difference between how a slicer sees a step files vs a STL file. Sounds a good research project. : )

I frequently print by object instead of by layer as insurance. That way if something gets off on a long print I still have 2-3 valid pieces and just need to reprint the last couple.

That's a pretty good idea. Instead of relying on the slicer to handle the inside, just handle it yourself.

Great video! Do you have a heated chamber on your printer? I have found that when printing ASA having a chamber at 55C vs ~32C ambient made a huge difference in part strength, even with single (though large) parts

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

I hate testing if it works with 30 pieces haha. But, you're right.

I have tried adding internal walls before, without much success. When adding an internal wall, in my experience, the slicer views the internal walls as external walls and therefore doesn't generate infill in the hollow areas of the print. I suspect this is why you have support material inside the part as opposed to infill? Either way, a really nice, concise, informative video!

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Yeah, infill turns to Support material. You should be getting your strength for the Wall count. Inside and outside. Glad you took something away : )

Good stuff...I wonder if you print it with the layer lines 90 degrees to the stress lines (maybe with support) if it would be stronger In fact I KNOW they will be stronger...but dimensional inaccurate since the part is laying on it's side... Subbed...and awesome! Keep em coming!!!!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Thanks! It would be strong that way.

@6:15 you notice the parts dont complete in order, but at random. there is a way so you can have it go row by row so the extruder doesn't knock into the others. unfortunately the slicer doesn't really have a way to organize this how you want, but if you spend time figuring it out, you can make it work.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Yeah, this slicer can’t do it. What a bummer.

a few years ago, in 2019, i ran into this issue, i just used the "cut" option in my slicer to separate the part, and thats it. The slicer sees it as a floating piece and will ask if you want supports, just hit no. and BOOM, you have a more solid piece

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Hey, what slicer are you using?

@LT72884

Ай бұрын

@@ChipMonkeys prusa slicer has the cut option and a whole lot more. There tree supports are awesome as well

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

@@LT72884 Right on! We used the Prusa Slicer in one of our last videos. We will take a look at the Cut option! Thanks for the heads up!

@LT72884

Ай бұрын

@@ChipMonkeys you are welcome

printing in other orienation will fix that problem. but sometimes it is not possible for some other reasons. so maybe it will come in handy one day! also the fact that layer adhesion suffers from simultaneous printing is new to me. interesting!

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

Yeah, the CAM software is getting lots of new technology, but the slicers are still pretty basic. Maybe if people expected to Pay money for slicers they would get better. haha

great video and tips. Being new to 3d modeling I would be interested in a tutorial of how you duplicated the part and then made the changes.

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

Are you using Fusion 360? If so, I uploaded the model to our site with the History so you can see set by step.

@ChrisOndrovic

Ай бұрын

@@ChipMonkeys I am using Fusion 360

@ChrisOndrovic

Ай бұрын

@@ChipMonkeys I am using Fusion360, I looked on your site but was unable to find it.

@ChipMonkeys

Ай бұрын

@@ChrisOndrovic www.cnctutorials.com/3dprinting/

@ChrisOndrovic

29 күн бұрын

@@ChipMonkeys thanks got it

A heated chamber will greatly improve layer adhesion btw. You should be able to print nonsequentially with much better strength

Love it! Very rarely do I see this talked about. Only one question. Are you using a "3D mouse" to orbit and zoom around the part? Sometimes I see these weird fluid movements in videos and I am wondering what input device they are using, because it never looks like that when I just use my regular mouse.

@ChipMonkeys

2 ай бұрын

That’s a 3D Connexion controller. I bought a few of them, but it looks like they went up! www.amazon.com/3Dconnexion-SpaceMouse-Wireless-universal-receiver/dp/B079V367MM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=57563685513&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TiHiPktVgJmYlWNZBjltpWbGV9VexWKwf58nqtxDv2UwtHtnR8d8GOKd2Cto_e1BM_2JDp2-8XQ_Jl9asjUam5XQK88nluWXB0ozUkvPXp3XKQz4qIXfWTrq_kOwQig9euazpsKBzDPbUeIEtduHcFxnAprPluo5l-TTd8vob56aktu7pE1iAFnKG1nwdtvdm5dmTCBpUS0YLG0KyKYXfQ.XXpE8Z1bzkF-habs67GQ_Yh4m8R1temKlheerBvRxzo&dib_tag=se&hvadid=651162589606&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9013299&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14994002162514758618&hvtargid=kwd-296149135190&hydadcr=20137_13445650&keywords=3dconnexion&qid=1710159678&sr=8-2

@mjodr

2 ай бұрын

@@ChipMonkeys Awesome, that's what I thought it was! Thanks!