Many people have asked to compare GCodes side by side. I did it while creating the video but couldn’t find anything obvious that creates such a time saving. So I didn’t show it.

@lucasthompson1650

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, it’s a bunch of subtle things if you look through the GitHub commit logs for Cura and CuraEngine … still … if it works on our non-ultimakers, bring it on! 🤓

@veemajeno7511

2 жыл бұрын

cr6 se bed leveling problem s any help i have rainbows

@lucasthompson1650

2 жыл бұрын

@@veemajeno7511 I was just about to suggest a video from Shane Goodwin … then I saw that you were already in conversation with him in the comments of that video. 😌 Hope you got it solved. This is anecdotal, at best, but I have a friend who bought a CR6 SE and, honestly, he hasn’t had a single issue with it since he swapped out the main board for a BigTreeTech and flashing it with the CR6SE community supported Marlin 2.x fork. I initially chastised him for “fixing something that wasn’t broken” (and I am certainly not advocating the “upgrading for the sake of upgrading” behaviour we often see in this hobby, but in his case … it’s worked out great, and he’s been churning out great quality prints off that thing for the past ~8 months. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@humblebeastkey4069

2 жыл бұрын

Can I use the ender 3 profile u made for my ender 3 s1

@FilamentFriday

2 жыл бұрын

Yes

when you select 100% infill you can see at each layer that the infill is now yellow (not orange) it actually becomes a top/bottom and uses the much slower speed of top/bottom instead of infill, to bypass this you can use 99% infill, you'll see then that the infill is orange like normal and uses the infill speed

@xenontesla122

2 жыл бұрын

I think you're onto something!

@ubqtous

2 жыл бұрын

I dont understand. I just rewatched video twice. At 100% his infill is orange. Not yellow. I'm probably blind, but can you give some timestamps what you are referring to ???😕

@frankimanX

2 жыл бұрын

@@ubqtous go to 1;16

@JamesPound

Жыл бұрын

Good tip!

@DingoDongo09

Жыл бұрын

I like your funny words magic man

The title made me think you were talking about a trick that I often use in Cura: Turn everything off except infill. Turn perimeters to 0 and then add however many perimeters you want to Extra Infill Wall Count instead. This eliminates a pile of travels and retractions and makes a print much faster. If you just need a functional part, it often works out just fine.

@FilamentFriday

2 жыл бұрын

Beauregard Slim - I tried what you describe and it says 1 Hr 49 minutes so I’m not understanding how that saves anything. No walls, no skin walls, 2 Extra Infill walls, 100% infill.

This video inspired me to investigate, and I think I figured out what's going on and how to easily get this benefit on older versions of Cura. I'm using an Ender 3 V2. If you set infill to 100%, Cura converts every infill layer to a top/bottom skin so it ignores your selected infill pattern, and prints the Lines pattern at top/bottom speed which is slow. The workaround is to set infill to Lines (or ZigZag) at 99%, and then if you're worried about the tiny bit of extra line spacing, you can set infill extrusion rate to ~101% to compensate. That cuts the print time down to roughly what I'm seeing with the Extra Fast setting, and the preview looks the same. In real-world use, I find that Cubic 60% has been easily strong enough for anything I've needed to do so far, especially for compression. I printed a PETG test block with this infill, and could not dent it in my 6" vise.

This trick also work for lower infill prints ! I did a 10 percent infill for a board game insert. Went from 9h30 print to 4h50. No stringing, no mods and stock nozzle. Thank you so much.

My prefered way to speed up 100% infill parts, is to just use really really high wall thickness, and set the infill to 0. That way the printer moves more fluidly (along the path of the part wall, instead of the constant ziging and zaging, which is slow as it has to change direction constantly). The estimated print time cura gives you is usually off, my method is usually quicker than the predicted time. I probably wont use the crazy accel settings shown in the video as I prefer to have less risky prints that are slightly slower, than waste time reprinting because of shifting or other issues.

Maybe it's not suitable for your audience, but I was hoping you'd dig into WHY the two gcodes achieve such different results. Is it taking a different path? Is it using a different line width or flow rate so it doesn't need so many zigzags?

This is happening because there's hidden settings in cura for acceleration limit. There's a plugin in the market you can download which shows them. It's set to default 500.

Just tried out these settings with my Ender 3 Pro. Worked beautifully, no stringing. Thank you for this and all your informative videos!

OMG! This is the biggest improvement in 3D printing ever! Big thanks!!!!!!

My bet is that it works by increasing line width. When it comes down to it, this profile still needs to extrude a certain volume of plastic to complete the part, and if it's not moving the print head way faster or increasing layer height, the only way to get more plastic out in the same amount of time is increasing line width. I've actually experimented with this in Prusaslicer quite successfully. For extra fast printing I set line width to between 0.6 and 0.8-mm on a 0.4-mm nozzle with 0.3-mm layer heights, and then at 60-mm/s you get a volumetric flow between 10 and 13-mm^3/s. For an E3D v6, that's about as fast as the printer can physically melt the plastic. The thicker lines also mean the printer needs to make fewer passes over the same area. In Prusaslicer you can also set a volumetric flow rate limit, so I'll set things up like above, set print speed to something really high, like maybe 100-mm/s, then limit volumetric flow to maybe 10-mm^3/s. This basically assures that the printer is always putting down as much material as possible at any given time, which gets you pretty fast prints. The benefit is, of course, most pronounced at higher infills, but it speeds up normal prints too.

@pturcanu

2 жыл бұрын

Makes sense. Thanks for explaining!

@flixquadrat6337

2 жыл бұрын

yes, but dont limit only with volumetric flow and a high speed. Otherwise your Inner Perimeters and Infill will be printed at lets say 60mm/s. But your outer Perimeters, which shouldnt be ~0,7mm but more 0,4 to 0,5mm for quality, overhangs and stuff will be printed at around 90 to 100mm/s. This would give bad outer walls and corner Bulging on most printers so I'd leave the outer Perimeters always on a speed your machine can handle easily, mostly 20 to 50 Side Note: Wider Line Widths are giving so much more layer adhesion! with 0,7 to 0,8 on a 0,4mm nozzle you can push layer adhesion on some PLA and PETG to more than 80%, I did some mechanical testing in my university

@pturcanu

2 жыл бұрын

@@flixquadrat6337 What do you mean by 80% layer adhesion? 80% more strength, or is that a metric for actual adhesion?

@kyleshearer1270

2 жыл бұрын

It's not that complicated. I just checked it out; The Snapmaker profiles simply don't half the print speed parameters for the walls and ceilings. Traditionally, Cura only prints the requested speed for the infill. Everything else prints at half that speed.

@flixquadrat6337

2 жыл бұрын

@@pturcanu 80% of the strength in XY direction. Basically you print lying and upright samples and do tensile testing and the lying (XY) samples are your reference, the upright samples are for layer adhesion. CNCKitchen has some good videos here on youtube where he also compares layer adhesion and stuff, he never tried out line width as far as I know

I have tried this hack on my Ender 3 with marlin 1.9 using petg - and it took almost half the time - thank you for this material

Thanks for digging in in the Ender 2 Pro capabilities!! 👋

I've Just started a long project on my ender 3 and this profile will save me several days of waiting. Thank you!

An easy way of achieving the same thing is to set the wall thickness to something stupidly high, so the entire model is printed as if it was a wall. This makes the lines follow the pattern of the outer wall, which is usually longer and sweeping which means less direction changes = less accell and decell = less time printing during those slower speeds. Compared to the 100% infill, which is very zig zaggy which means lots of direction changes = lots accell and decell needed = more time spent printing during those slower movements

@ItsBoyRed

7 ай бұрын

I think you get the same result if you change infill to 100% and set it to Concentric mode.

@ratgreen

7 ай бұрын

Nice thanks, I'll have to try it as sometimes my method does actually increase print times on certain models.@@ItsBoyRed

This is a game changer! Thanks for sharing this. I just tried it on my Voxelab Aquila. I printed some valve knobs on my usual profile that took 1h10m each at 10% infill with a .2mm layer height and 60mm/s print speed. I printed the same knob on this profile at 100% infill with the .28 layer height and 50mm/s and it took 35 MINUTES!! Cura tells me even at .28mm with my normal profile it would be an hour, so this has cut my print time by nearly half. I'm using this going forward unless it's something intricate and has small details.

@46JCK

2 жыл бұрын

Running the same thing. I found that if I cut my walls down from 2 to 1 (depending on what youre printing, I have 9 separate nested parts). It saved me an additional 30 mins. So my print time is under half of what it used to be. I'm in awe, just watching the Aquila whip around. Waiting for a print to finish to see if the parts will be durable enough. Also have a bridge so I'm curious to see if I'll need to really slow it down or not. It's nut to watch tho, regardless.

@FilamentFriday

2 жыл бұрын

Exactly why I shared this. It’s not to produce the prettiest prints but a great way to get functional prints faster.

@1andDONEson

2 жыл бұрын

Should had read the comments because I just asked about the Aquila, lol, thanks...

For your part in particular, i'snt it better to have like just perimeters and no infill? When i print circular stuff (bushes, collers, etc) i always go all perimeter (set 20 perimeters or so). It is much more plastic extrude per time if it goes continuous circular sweeps than the angled infill. Also it's more resistant in tension on the direction of the perimeter. And since it's a collar, it will be much better for this task as it's all tension around the pole. In my experience it also saves a whole lot of time compared to few perimeter and more infill (especially 100%)

I only found your channel a few weeks ago, but man I really look forward to Filament Friday!

Postman has just delivered my Ender 2 Pro so perfect timing to start exploring what I can do with it :)

Fantastic and functional to boot! Loved the modding thought process. Gonna try modding my 3v2 for ultra speeds! Awesome as always!

Thanks for posting this, never even thought of doing something like this till now. I did get a working profile for my ender 3 after a little adjusting, printed a decent benchy in 1 hr. 3 min. Great videos keep up the good work and thank you.

Ender 3 V2 with CR Touch bed leveler - just added G29 - flawless! Thank you

Ender 3v2, petg, 240* nozzle, 75* bed, printed perfect. Oddly cutting infill from 100% to 20 only shaved off 15 minutes. Loving it. Thanks Chep.

I really appreciate your time making these videos, I’ve come to rely on them for making my printing experience more fruitful. This one is especially useful. Thank you 🙏🏻

@FilamentFriday

2 жыл бұрын

Your welcome.

@Dlutheran

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah 👍 thanks for all the videos 🙏

@singhakshaybp

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video sir. But the "magic" aspect is keeping me awake with curiosity. Any way to figure that out?

Thanks for the video, I got a lot from it, especially the tip of using a hot air gun to get rid of the fine stringing. Keep it going.

Wow just tried on my Aquila and its SPEED now! thanks.

Thanks CHEP, love it!

I just tested this hack on my CR10s Pro V2 and WoW.. it's crazy fast. Thanks for the tip.

Just did it for my Ender 5 pro. So far so good. Thx!

I've had a quick look into this. Used a calibration cube and sliced it on my own printer's profile and the S3 profile after changing that printer to the same nozzle. Used .2mm layer height on both and indeed the S3 is way quicker (2x/3x). I started to align the settings to be the same as the S3 one, and what struck me was that when I selected 100% infill, it doesn't actually print "infill", but just makes the top layer 999999. It results in the same thing, except that it doesn't print at infill speeds. Changing this manually already sped the print up massively. Then aligning the speed settings also helped, especially the jerk settings (careful with these). When I had all the settings aligned, there was only 10 minutes difference (36 min for S3 and 46 min for my own printer) between the two, which isn't a lot, but they are at the moment still unexplained. I wonder What would happen if I print both and compare actual print time. I suspect they will be very close, if not the same. I have a feeling that Cura is more catered to these printers and knows how long certain tasks take (for instance waiting for bed/tool to get to temperature) and adds a bit extra for other printers to be on the safe side.

This works. No joke. Unbelievable speed difference.

Brilliant! I am always put off by printing 100% infill bar a few exceptions because of the print time. Will give this a go with one of my structural models I have

Thanks for video! Just tried on my Biqu B1 successfully!

Sir I would like to say Thank You so much for this video! I'm new to 3D Printing. Just recently designed a Smallrig Camera cage for my Canon 5D Mark iii DSLR that was going to take roughly 21 hrs and you've just cut my print time down to 7hrs!!! You are a God Send good sir. Please continue to post such great content!

@FilamentFriday

Жыл бұрын

Thanks. Subscribe. I’ve put out 22 videos since this one.

Going to give it a go with my Ender 3 V2 tomorrow and see what kind of results we get.

@rudyh7380

2 жыл бұрын

Keep us updated

@ConorFenlon

2 жыл бұрын

Commenting to keep an eye on your results. I've an Ender 3v2 also.

@davidsimpson363

2 жыл бұрын

I'll be very curious how this goes for you. Keep us updated!

@dangerous8333

2 жыл бұрын

I have an E3V2. All metal extruder, all metal hotend. I was initially able to cut my print times in half just by setting most of the speed settings to 150 mm/s, and not even touching whatever the default acceleration is for Cura's profile. I'm doing this with Jyers firmware. Which I should add has an acceleration limit built into the firmware. I don't know if Merlin does. I've been trying to figure out where to mod the firmware but haven't found it yet. If it does have a firmware limit it won't matter what you set the acceleration to in Cura.

@johnhelyar1366

2 жыл бұрын

Also have a Ender 3v2 and would love to know if this works keep us updated

For this part in specific I would suggest using concentric patterns for both to and bottom layers and infill. It will allow you to greatly reduce the added width of the ring because when you print it with those patterns, all the forces that are applied to the part when you tighten it around a tube will be pulling in the direction of the lines. I bet it could do with a total of 8 walls (including the "walls" generated by the infill pattern).

infil linewidth and printing infill every second layer (for layers below .2mm) are good things to play with aswell when it comes to speed.

Looking forward to all your Cura profiles for the Ender 2 pro!, as you have for the Ender 3 family

I use a BIC lighter and get close (not too close) passes or hold it right above the thicker strings to pick or burn the strings right off. 🔥

In the Cura Preview you can show the Speed and Flow as colors. You could have used that to show us the difference between the Ultimaker and the standard Ender3 profile.

thanks a lot as always chuck, I am trying it right now on an ender 3 max, I´ll told you later the results

the faster one @ 5:44 looks like it has arcwelder applied to it , a little smoother overall. less data to process, maybe faster. you could try printing with 0% infill and a wall thickness so big, it fills the whole part

Just to let you know this is the best profile that I found so far with a 100% infill. The appearance is great and the pieces are strong even when I set to a .32mm profile. I also use the CC .6 mm setting and it is working great, Did I mention that it is fast. Also to let you know that I am printing your profile in a Ender 3 pro so it is Working great and saving me some print time. Thanks for sharing.

I've been sharing your findings, and applied this hack to my recent prints. I am amazed!!!

@Ebani

2 жыл бұрын

Not a hack, soon to be available on all printers bc it's a reported bug :D

@FilamentFriday

2 жыл бұрын

It was a feature in 4.13 not a bug.

@Ebani

2 жыл бұрын

@@FilamentFriday Idk if every printer will be as fast as using such feature but there is a bug that affects every printer that isn't an Ultimaker using 100% infil.

@gemzentaurus5537

2 жыл бұрын

@@Ebani Potato-Potatoe, Bug - Hack, Tomato - Tomatoe. After the initial report, Ultimaker will claim it to be whatever they want....a "bug"?!? Mmmmkay. Mod, hack, workaround, feature, bug or backdoor. I am still impressed on how my Voxelab Aquila runs through these type of prints so fast and without any stringing effect. 😉

You are awesome Chep! Great vid!

Hmmm. I have a print coming up measured in days. I may look into this. Thank You

Nice hack. Always enjoy your videos. Very knowledgeable

Another incredible video I love your content! Keep it up!👌

Usually when I need strong part while not wanting to go 100% infill, I set like 4-6 perimeters (0.4 nozzle), a stick in a grid or cubic infill at like 10-15%, works wonders, layers dont split and feels pretty solid.

This is insane, been looking for faster ways to print since I use it for cosplay, thanks!

Awesome! I’m going to have to try this out. Hopefully Cura makes it easier to use it on any printer in the future.

Very cool! Thanks for sharing.

When I'm running mass production, I like to raise the layer height so that the machine does fewer passes.

wow... that's some great info! thank you sir.

the first one i noticed you had grid infill which tends to slice slow for me (the fast one was using zig zag pattern which could maybe explain some time difference). ive been using the lines pattern for 100% infill for a while now and it works great structurally and print time wise and gyroidal for everything else

i thought is all about profiling settings, it only makes sense, the machine can withstand high speeds if moded properly, however if the speed of the software is slow... and clogged ul get long time printing. nice to see this tip really helpful, initially i thought is the SD card read/write speeds and i think a big part of the time consuming is that. but this is a huge difference compared to 2hrs its insane fast now.

Printed this file today on my Tronxy XY-2 Pro. I migrated all of the 0.28 Rough-Fast profile over to my Tronxy, but printed at the speeds which the machine is tuned for. At 100% infill, with all of the line/layer/wall settings from the Creality profiles, and the file printed in 38 minutes 8 seconds.

You were reading my mind. I only have an Ender 2 to work with and that's fine; I like it and most of the time it's enough printer for me. My go-to filament is FormFutura TitanX. I have some projects where I want to get the strength up substantially so just yesterday I started investigating how to properly go about that. This example should reduce my trial and error time and I am coincidentally staying at Cura 4.13 until version 5 comes out of beta, so good timing on that too.

one thing i have noticed on the rare instances i use cura. The print times are significantly longer than prusa slicer with similar settings. The quality is usually lower with cura as well. cura also has way to many settings and many are redundant. Plus the hidden settings you cant see.

Try to look under info Icon, there you will find TIME ESTIMATION list and get more info about where the time is saving.

That's really amazing, do you think these settings an be done on the Creality CR10S ?

as a ender owner this could be a game changer for me, as I mostly print utilitarian parts not pretty ones

I'll likely fuss around with that Ender 3 profile later. Seems like it will be fairly useful. By the way, thanks for uploading to Thangs.

Great video. Gonna give this a bash on my CR6se. Thanks

Someone put CNC Kitchen on the case!

I printed a few items at 100mm/s on my Ender 3 Pro without any issues at 0.28mm and 0.2mm. Per the recommendations I saw online, I increased the temperature of the extruder to 215F instead of the usual 200C I use with Hatchbox PLA. I wouldn't do it with something intricate, but it worked well for some basic brackets and square objects.

I have enough trouble getting a consistent print. Once I settle on a profile or 3 I don't want to go that deep. It was a cool video, and it shows there are still optimizations that can be done with existing hardware to make 3d printing more enjoyable and efficient. I hope this stuff becomes mainstream, and not just a hack from a specific printer.

Thank you for this one and all other videos aswell. I'm new to 3d printing and your videos really speed up my learning curve and the quality of the prints. I'm using vanced, so I cannot comment & like, but I had singed in to original youtube app to say thanks and subscribe.

@slartibartfass5729

Жыл бұрын

I'm writing this reply using Vanced on Android. You just need to add your KZread account to it.

technically, after many tests i have done in my engineering lab, more walls yields better strength. We should try 50% infill and more walls just to see. Even a 25% infill with more walls and see how it works. i would be curious:) thanks for your videos.

@LT72884

2 жыл бұрын

@@Kalvinjj facts. I agree with you. Infill for compression for sure

@toddzino58

2 жыл бұрын

Agree. I think it was CNC kitchen that did some testing. Short of it all was 3-4 perimeters and 50% gyroid infill was the best mix for strength. Anything more was just waste of material and longer print times for very marginal gain in strength.

@LT72884

2 жыл бұрын

@@toddzino58 yes, it was cnc kitchen as well that has done tests. I usually use 3 walls and 12% infill and its pretty dang good. 4 walls and 12% is superb for my applications haha

great tip ! thank's a lot Chep !👍

You can get rid of stringing by having it in combing mode so the nozzle doesn't leave the model. Also you can increase the infil speed to like 90 (ive even done 120) since it doesnt matter for quality and keep the outer wall speed 60 or 50 for the quality. Also I think selecting optimize print order helps speed up the print. If you hit slice then click the little "i" for info it will tell you what's taking up the most time and you can mess with those settings specifically. Also great video as always

this works up until now thanks for this ! i cut 1 hour and 25 to 45 mins ! :)

I’m going to have to try this when I get back from my trip. I’m wondering how much the acceleration settings make a difference on print time vs the modded profile if you restored them back to Creality recommendations.

Great info, hadn't downloaded the latest version until just now. I'm using an S5, and note that after just a cursory check, this new mode isn't available for all materials, which probably isn't a huge surprise. I tend to use PETG for most things these days, and it's not available for it. It does show up on PLA and Tough PLA, so your mileage may vary.

CHEP, the missing extra secret sauce is in the infill speed under "materials" for the Ultra fast settings, double the infill speed compared to the wall speed. the stringing came from the combing settings, change it to "within infill"

@goku445

2 жыл бұрын

Interesting!

@erez_gur

2 жыл бұрын

I couldn't find "infill speed" under material (Ender 3 V2), is it only available on Ultramaker's profile?

@goku445

2 жыл бұрын

@@erez_gur it's in speed I think.

@erez_gur

2 жыл бұрын

@@goku445 ok, thanks!

I have had good luck lately printing 60 on the anycubic x. I just had to go up on fillament thickness and max infil. It's not an hour off but it helps.

Nice trick. It would be interesting to figure out what's actually different in the profiles. It looks like the hole for the nut is too small though. Instead of loading a flat surface, it loads the sides and levers the layers apart. If you tweak this aspect of the design, the lower infill part may still work adequately.

@flymeetspaddle

2 жыл бұрын

99% agree with this. ive had similar problems with designs in the past. also would need to have enough walls to make the skin adequately thick enough to withstand the crushing.

Great video. I’ll have to try that. I am brand brand new to 3-D printing. I got an ender 3S one recently for my first printer but so far I’ve had to use the creality slicer because cura doesn’t have settings for the S1 and I can’t find instructions for how to make a suitable profile for it that is understandable. Any advice or help would be super appreciated. I know creality slicer is a repackaged form of cura but I’d like to be able to use the original.

Hi there, nice video! What was the nozzle size you use in this print? Thanks in advance

That worked great for me. Not sure on the supports using 100% infill though. Thanks for your content, really helped out this noob.

thanks for your content Chep ! once again a very interesting video

Will you be able to update your Ender3 profiles with this new information? I've been using your profiles for quite some time 👍

The infill ist printed at top and bottom speed for the ender profile, while the s5 prints it at infill speed

interesting, im going to try this and modify it for my anycubic vyper, fingers crossed...

well you did change the nozzle diameter so that should affect flow right??

Nice video. Will something like this be possible for Ender 3 by any chance?

tks alot, really usefull. new to 3d printing and just managed to use cura on a new creality cr200b pro... does no have support in no other software than creality print. and the default profiles just suck, they are relly slow and the quality is not even alot better :(

Chuck I'll say it again, You DA MAN!!!!

1:52 When you hover your mouse over the 'not overridden" selection it tells you in the bubble that this is an option for multi head extrusion printers that have 2 or more feeds.

Ohh I'm gonna try this out and play with these settings to see what i can do with my old ender 3 v1

@moto083c

2 жыл бұрын

Any Update?

I follow your path except I used the profile of the S5 printer and 20% infill. Using the same settings the profile of the S5 was 2 hrs 59 min and the profile using cr6se settings was 4 hrs 22 min a savings of 1 hrs 22 min well worth it. The nozzle jerks very fast and the supports print very fast. The print has not finished yet but it looks good up to now.

At 100% infill printing time is only a matter of how much material you can push through your hotend per second. So there are three easy possibilities how to minimize your printing time without effecting the part quality: 1. Use a wider layer line width for everything except the outer perimeter. I'd reccomend printing the outer perimeter first. You can go up to 200% nozzle width, whereas I'd reccomend using 150-170%. 2. Combine your Infill every other layer (infill layer thickness twice the value of the normal layer height). That will double the infill line height and reduce the infill printing time by 50%. 3. Optimize your infill and inner perimeter printing speed by raising it up to the limit where your extruder starts missing steps and then reduce the printing speed by 20%. You can't reach that point? Choose a higher layer height and try again. If this isn't an option for keeping the print quality high, increase your accerelations until the printer misses steps in X and Y (try to find every limit individually). Lower the value by 20% and try again. And that's your 100%-Infill-SpeedPrinting setup. Good luck, have fun. P.S.: Still not fast enough? Upgrade to a BondTech CHT-Nozzle or a Volcano Hotend. P.P.S.: Still not fast enough? Upgrade to an E3D Hemera or BondTech LGX extruder with V6 Hotend and BondTech CHT. P.P.P.S. Still not fast enough? Bro, it's 3D-printing... That's not supposed to be super fast :D

That's pretty cool, makes me want to start messing with my mk3's accel values (ive always considered that black magic to be left alone). I wonder if the overall durability of the final object is comparable to slower print speeds. Maybe a job for CNC kitchen to make some samples for testing.

Great tip. Thanks

It would be nice if there were a way to make the infill extrude only every second layer, and with wider lines.

When printing the raft, my MakerBot prints the lines 1.5 mm wide by default. I wonder if this profile does something similar with the infill bead width and makes it wider than normal since it’s 100% dense.

This trick is pretty neat. I tried it on my ender 3 pro and it printed a file that normally takes 50 minutes at 100% infill in 25 minutes. However a few middle layers and some of the layers at the top shifted so the print quality was not great. Maybe if I decrease the acceleration of the printer I could improve the printing speed and not get shifting.

what happens if you do the same thing but with ARC support enabled since it is mostly circles printing.

I tried it on my Ender-3 (changing the profiles like you did) and it worked. But it felt like the printer was going to shake itself to pieces. I think my printer will last longer if I just have more patience :) Thanks again Chuck.

@Candle_Jack776

2 жыл бұрын

It defiantly lets you know what you got. I found that my belts were loose, and a lot of the chatter came from the filament spool overhead.

@Expeebaba

2 жыл бұрын

Finally found a complaint I was looking for. The print speed is faster than the traditional print speed and I'm afraid my printer will fall apart

@goku445

2 жыл бұрын

Weight it with a cinder block!

@derekhawley9660

2 жыл бұрын

@@goku445 ha ha😃

@goku445

2 жыл бұрын

@@derekhawley9660 Really! It's a thing. I think CNC kitchen has a video about it saying it drastically improved quality.

Best profile ever made a few tweeks to make it work with an ender5 plus but I took a 7.5 day print and made it a 3.2 day print so sweet wish this is how fast printers were stock would make projects actually go fast

@umiturgutaswwsa

10 ай бұрын

ı have the same machine bro can you explain me the settings that i have to change

@true_cannon_workshops

10 ай бұрын

@@umiturgutaswwsa if your using cura I copy and pasted the marlin from the e5 to the e3 profile and made the e3 into an e5 profile in machine settings and proceeded to adjust quality settings to make it work with 20% infill better and added a few lines I’d have to get in a call with you to actually show you but I’m not sure how to do that but I’m just finishing a mando helmet in the next 2 mins and it is taking under 2 days to print