I made this kind of system in my van, but by my own way. I didn't use any ready supplies. Now I have 80 litres (21 gallons) of hot water in 20 minutes of driving. 😁

@chiobianoliefoh9546

2 жыл бұрын

can you share on how you did that

@c.i.m.1600

Жыл бұрын

Howdy, Do you maybe have a video of the setup, or parts list and a diagram? Many thanks in advance for your time and assistance, it's much appreciated. C.I.M.

@marc1321

10 ай бұрын

Hi Filip, can you share how you did it? A partslist would help as well.

What a work of art! Never would I be able to design this myself. Simply amazing that your knowledge reservoir is so large. I will absorb this slowly, like a good novel. Looking at the aluminum, high tech systems, birch plywood just gives me the thrills. I savor these videos like a fine wine - smell, sip, taste, swirl, absorb, repeat. What a gift you are to the planet. Looking good with that hair and beard trim. And more relaxed somehow. Glad to see you in the pink of health.

PLEASE, a parts list especially the billet intercooler. TIA

I’m always blown away with your professionalism, love for building vans the right way, and, just your total knowledge in general! Thanks for sharing all you do with all of us, George! ❤️👍😎. ~Jim~

Buying a used van with the system like this in it this helps so much! Thank you thank you

Now THIS was a beautiful, clean build and an amazingly clear and simple overview. THANK YOU

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Every time I think I’ve got a good idea you have already done it. You got me again.

Good Morning George Always Enjoy Your Humble Road Videos !! Thanks !!👍

This is how most cruising boats make hot water. Works great and the water will stay hot for a day. Most marine water heaters are stainless and include an internal engine coolant heat exchanger plus a 120V electric heater as well. My boat makes water very hot and it lasts into the next day easy.

❤️ your systems and options, GEORGE…amazing‼️

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

Thank you so very much for sharing George. Awesome 👍❤️

Beautifully designed and explained

I have just recently learned of these water heaters and I think they are a great idea, I will be incorporating one into my build.

You sir are a rockstar and an inspiration.

Free hot water, and as a by-product, extra cooling for the van engine.

Mind blowing ☀️ great idea

What a great series you have. Thank you.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

You're very welcome!

George, that Garage is a work of art.

Great idea for winter heating. I have a floor heater in my bus and after parking it puts off radiant heat for hours... Nice.

Fantastic and thank you for the information share. Peace and love from Liverpool England ✌🏼❤️

Nice work Loue! I hope I spelled that right.

Good information.👍💕😊

Very interesting video good job

That solves the problems of getting the truck stranded losing its engine coolant from those lines getting cut by a rock or something on the road, and solves the problems of those lines freezing during the winter since it is also antifreeze coolant. I didn't see or hear if you shown or talked about the tank freezing when not in use during the winter. But i am sure all you would need to have is a drain valve for the fresh water in the tank at its lowest point, and just drain it when you know you will be storing the truck in the freezing weather.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I haven’t installed a low point drain since van #01. Run the tank dry and blow the lines.

Hello, my friend Haven't commented in a while. Last year was rough on everybody, I like the new format good information 1 set-up with the lights. More time to build vans. Also so glad you got the new space. I knew how much you wanted it before. Take care talk to you later,😀

Your level of detail and expertise in so many aspects of van building is second to none. I think the water heater resides in the second to none area - however great it is to have a hot shower. When I travel I generally am chasing T-shirt weather and would not want an extra heat sink inside the van, as I typically have the fans running and doors wide open to get rid of accumulated heat just from outside temperature inputs. I am usually successful in ridding all of the heat - when I don't - I don't sleep as well. (& we all know that lack of sleep is the new smoking!!!) I use a more mobile solution to get a hot shower (much less convenient though)

You make some of the most well explained and safest/smartest solutions for Van lifers like me. Thank you for your videos. You are super knowledgeable and it shows in your work. I just purchased my 2022 Promaster 2500 136WB yesterday and I’m coming to you for my conversion needs. Talk to you soon hopefully. 🙏🏽

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I wish you the best with your build! 👍

Brilliant 👏

Learned more info for my system in my 98 Xplorer. Thanks for posting George!

@yvairguy

2 жыл бұрын

My 98 Xplorer heats the water heater from the motor. I also added a 110v heat rod to heat off the generator, shore power or solar.

@tonym5878

2 жыл бұрын

@@yvairguy Interesting!

Love your videos.....trust the humble man . Someday I would like to send a can for conversion from UK.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Please do!

An ideal to install it on or in the roof with a transparent dome cover over it, to allow sunlight to hit it, paint it flat black. This way it gives more energy options and more energy period. During your camp stop you not only have the option to use solar panels and batteries with the 750watt element to heat the water, you have the sunlight hitting it during the sunny days. And at most you will benefit by not having to use so much battery power to keep hot water, and have more energy for other things. You could also install tees on the input and outputs of the reservoir and add another heat transfer loop using a small solar water heating coil(under a transparent flat panel), giving even more energy into the system during sunny days.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Be aware of the weight you will have up there. Not to alter the center of gravity too much

Been looking for hours to find a proper video for explaining the heating system for hot water / floor heating in the van, I thought about using the auto term combo boil and connect ut to the coolant system of the car I see here I should use a exchanger

Brilliant ...

The engineer in me really wants to install this in my next build. The pragmatist doesn’t want to feel like I am running an engine room on my camping trips.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Once installed, the only thing left to do is smile 😊

@Mauronic100

2 жыл бұрын

@@HumbleRoad haha. Until your guest forgets that your outdoor shower can be 170 degrees 😬 I’d love to hear more about the pros and cons for someone like me who isn’t full time

Hello George, many thanks for your excellent work. Your brain is always working overdrive!!! Question: where do you tap into your heat exchanger understood? Did you install a Y connector to split the heated coolant to cab heat and exchanger, or to have coolant going in series to exchanger and can heat. I know you are busy, but I hope for the best. TIA.

Spring clamps are typically better than worm-drive clamps for automotive and similar applications where heating and cooling is taking place, such as on the tank barbs. They will expand and contract keeping a constant water-tight pressure on the tubing, but they must be sized correctly. Worm drive clamps such as in the video can apply too much pressure upon the hose when the tank and hose is heated and over time, this can cause leaks. If you need worm-drive clamps for an application, I suggest the Norma brand because they will hold much tighter than other worm drive clamps. Cheers!

very very nice

Genius!

Thanks for the excellent information. Please provide the product description.

Wow having you do the build then a video on how it works

Hi HR, I am about to do this on my new 2023 promoter 159 Ext. I am trying to figure out where exactly you cut your hose so that you didn't need to add any hose! I am stumped! LOL. Do you have a video of how you did it, I would love to see how so that I can do it! Great video as always, thank you so much for making these videos! Dwayne - Utah

@HumbleRoad

9 ай бұрын

I have a Promaster coming in for the first of the year.

Great system, very interesting. Instead of adding and removing insulation around the pipes, it would help to regulate the pump. In summer it should run slower, so the glycol has more time to cool down before it runs into the heater. (Maybe a two level-switch for summer/winter is sufficient.) Btw: I'm using an electric 12V heater and run it only while I'm driving. Same effect, but only 200W and much less water than in your system.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the tips!

Hi following your videos is a treat with your humor. My question what is the specificaction of the heat exchanger.

You are an excellent illustrator! You really fully understand the heat exchanger principles to give such a clear lecture without a script. Really enjoy all your videos. Any reason not using instant tankless hot water system?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Tankless requires power every time. this system requires zero power.

ahh, an aux system to heat when you are not driving. I was always wondering about that!

Beautiful job!! Curious if there would actually be any battery net loss if you ran the electric water heater while driving with your multi chargers going?

Great video! Sir George, just wanted to give a heads up. That those worm gear clamps connected to the heat exchanger will eventually leak glyco, especially in the engine bay. Due to the hose experiencing cold/hot temps. It is much better to use spring clamps that can deal with that expanding and contracting of hoses. Hence why all car manufacturers, will never use worm gear clamps in the engine bay

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Noted. Thank you!

I love your content!! I am trying to find the heat exchanger you are using in this video. What brand is it and where can I buy It?

Hi HR! I have been following your videos for years now and very much appreciate your sharing of your experience, but also your explanation-teaching of your work and process. I am in the process of buying appliances for my Transit van and wanted to ask where you picked up your hot water heating system, specifically the glycol coolant unit and if its just the unit or other parts needed for assembly? I already purchased the isotemp cylinder water heater and hoping to install the passive heating system as well. Thank you for sharing your experience and look forward to hearing from you!

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Brett, for supporting my channel. .

Can you post a link to the brand / model heat exchanger you use??? Looks like it'd fit perfect in the Transit.

A counter argument for having a mixing valve at the tap vs. mixing valve at the calorifier is that the pre-mixed at the calorifier water will lose less heat in transit than the mixing at the tap variant,

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

In terms of physics, you are correct. However, the fact that the water is being sent to the faucet at upwards of 150 to 170°F. I wouldn’t mind losing a little more heat at that point as well!

Excellent system. I'm curious if I could use a cheap 2.5 gallon HWH (Home Depot type) and then always have a 120v HWH available where I have shore power? In other words, heat exchanger plumbed in like yours just in to an existing HWH where it almost never runs? Can you link which heat exchanger you went with? I'm seeing lots of variance in price and I'm sure this is in line with quality.

Good morning!

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Morning!

I don't know how many times I have watched this video to learn. I think I watched all of your episodes. Thank you so much. I wonder why you didn't install the reservoir tank in the engine bay. Was it just simply because of no space?

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

Correct, no space in the engine bay.

Enjoy your ideas and build series. I also have the Isotemp Sure Slim 4.2 G water heater and the rixen Hydronic Kit with the expansion tank minus the electrical heat element.I also have the engine coolant heat exchanger add on. My question to you is what was your reasoning for running your glycol from the extension tank to the pump then direct to the heater exchange in the engine compartment and then to the isotemp?. Also if I put the extension tank in the engine compartment with the heat exchanger where would I place the pump?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

The reservoir should be the highest component in the system

Always clear and concise explanation of your engineering decisions; thanks! I would like to hear your opinion and experience on using those plate exchangers vs shell & tube. My concern in my application is that the exchanger in the engine bay will experience significant vibrations, and I am concerned about the plate exchanger as they are theoretically much more prone to breakdown in the seal and resulting in liquids mixing compared to the shell & tube type heat exchanger.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I know a few builders using the very same exchanger in their builds without issue. I have three vans out in the wild using this heat exchanger without issues. One van is full time, running every single day!

@ChrisJones-ig1ph

2 жыл бұрын

I believe that this plate heat exchanger is fully brazed meaning there are no seals on the plate pack, it seems very robust to me.

Great job! I notice that you did not address the vent on top of the Rixen expansion tank. What are you planning to do with that in order to manage the potential air/coolant "escapes"? Also, is there a reason you did not put the expansion tank and/or pump in the engine area?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I will vent the reservoir outside the van, but if you keep the coolant level one inch and a half down from the top of the tank, it will not boil over. In a Promaster, there is not room under the hood for the reservoir. Sprinters? yes, I put the tank on the aux battery tray, if it is not occupied.

Do you run the pump off the Vehicles engine 12V? If so where did you tap into the wire does it start when ignition starts? I’d imagine you could have this on a rocker switch so on cold mornings you could circulate the gycol in the back on leisure battery and give the engine a warm?

Hi George, first of, love your work and the channel. Would you be willing, to please confirm I have the right part numbers for your hot water system, i.e. SKU: G55 Heat Exchanger, SKU:C11-103 2 Gal Exp Tank; SKU:P11-100 12v Pump? I live in the UK, so finding these parts here is a bit of a challenge. I was thinking of buying direct from Rixen; that's if they'll ship abroad. I managed to buy the ISOtherm tank. Thanks in advance

Seems like more work for more money, parts, failure points and less efficiency. And slight peace of mind. But if done correctly, a hose getting cut doesn’t seem likely

I think this is brilliant and it solves quite a worry I've been having about the idea of a heat exchanger set-up where the engine coolant is heat-exchanging with the hot water system. The problem with having a "direct" exchanger is that you generate hot water whenever you drive. And don't have an option to stop heating - at least not without complex diverter valves. I think with your system, can you not run the pump via a thermostat in your hot water tank - so when it reaches e.g. 120, your intermediate glycol loop pump switches off?

@HumbleRoad

9 ай бұрын

Correct

Hi George, I use isotherm slim in most of my builds. I have shut offs(electric ball valves) and no heat exchanger or Reservoir. These systems produce too much hot water if left open all the time. If it’s still too hot under my bed after both me and my wife shower, I have recirculating feature in shower valve rv that I can transfer most of the heated hot water to main tank that sits under van

@mattadams7261

2 жыл бұрын

Paul, do you have a pump on the your Isotherm to circulate the coolant from the engine or not?

@paullehto1823

2 жыл бұрын

@@mattadams7261 you don’t need pump, the engine water pump is always on when running. It circulates thur engine block and thur heater coil and isotherm if allowed. It works perfectly.I am now installing electric ball valves.

Lots of different size Heat Exchangers.....what brand /size do you find works the best and what brand/size pump do you use?

is that bosch water pump a 2 or 3 pin and where do you get the plug for it

George, I just appreciate you so much! So timely, you are! I've been fruitlessly researching this very system you demonstrate so beautifully here. Thanks so much for that! I'm thinking there must be a reason you didn't install the glycol reservoir under the van? I'd like to understand if you care to elaborate.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

As I explained in the video, the reservoir must be positioned at the highest point in the system. Otherwise, it will overflow!

@BoxyLady

2 жыл бұрын

On second thought, you did say that the tank needs to be higher than the rest of the system. Duh.

@MultiOutdoorman

7 ай бұрын

Resevoir needs to gravity feed the pump to work properly so low resevoir isnt ideal. Look at the location of your resevoirs in your car.

After thinking all day on this it’s as simple as wiring the pump through the thermostat on the tank already provided for the electrical heating element. Problem solved never too hot.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Except then you have to leave the tank “on” all the time, making hot water through the inverter .

@michaelscarfi3196

2 жыл бұрын

I’m pretty sure it opens and closes the connection without power. A gas water heater has no power to the thermostat. It just opens and closes a circuit. It’s worth looking into.

Spring clamps would be better than worm clamps for systems and connections that change temperature.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I don't trust spring clamps. But that's just me.

Yes, having 2 separate glycol systems safeguards from a cut line on the 2nd one disabling your vehicle. But if all the effort you put into making that 2nd system was focused instead on protecting those lines it would be much simpler and avoid the problems that glycol reservoir is causing. If the hoses came through the wall separating the passenger side from the engine they'd be well protected. What do you think?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

The hoses are not so easily routed to and through that fire wall without blocking or compromising another system under the hood. Best route is straight down and over the steering axle.

Super clean setup, great work. I have a similar setup in my van and love it. One question: Do you ever have the overheat protection get triggered? I keep finding myself having to access my water heater to reset the overheat protection pin every time I turn the heating element on and the water is hot.

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

No, I installed in line heat sinks on the return line to the water tank and that lowers the temp

@nomavans

Жыл бұрын

@@HumbleRoad Thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't sure if those cooled it down enough since the Promaster's coolant gets so hot, but it looks like with your heat exchanger and the in-line heat sinks it does which is great to hear. I really like your closed loop system as you have completely isolated systems. Great work, love seeing how well you've thought this through.

Great set up. Does the pump run constantly or what triggers the pump to circulate?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Engine on/pump on. Engine off/pump off.

Does the pomp switch on automatically when starting the Van? Amazing video! Thanks

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Yes

Great system, and I am looking forward to install it into my VAN as well. I am a perfectionist like you as well and love that everything is perfectly installed and allocated. Why add the extra tank of glycol though? Wouldn't 2 shut off ball valves where your intake and out-take from the van is be working the same way?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

Ball valves are fine, except the engine coolant is at risk making the journey to the water heater and back

@lugiano81

2 жыл бұрын

@@HumbleRoad I would have loved to build my van with you as I am sure it would have turned into another masterpiece. I would Love to connect and share some ideas I have applied into my built that haven’t seen done yet.

@lugiano81

2 жыл бұрын

@@HumbleRoad also why do you prefer this system to the isoterm itself with all built in already?

Hello George, by any chance you can draw a diagram how you did this? It’s the system of keeping the hot water in that water tank that throws me off. I totally understand the heat exchanging process produced by the engine glycol. It’s how to keep the hot water in the tank to be used later when you wanna take a shower or whatever. Thank you 😊

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

The water pump (when on) is pushing cold water into the water heater, where it is heated and sent out to the hot manifold for dispersion throughout the van.

Who makes the heater? Model? Link? Thanks!

How does someone sign up with you to build out their van? I love you and your work!!!

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

email: georgemauro@humbleroad.tv

If the returning glycol is too hot, couldn't you just setup a thermostatic switch to the pump? and stop the glycol looping.

@wakeupandbord

2 жыл бұрын

I like that, have a e-valve solenoid switch on the dash for summer days when you dont need hot water or really just dont want a hot van

@AXMIM

Жыл бұрын

who wants a hot shower anyway when it is 30°C outside anyway. I like your idea a lot.

How about a parts list for that tank, pump, exchanger, etc? I have the same heater but i like your isolated system idea.

@gme5802

2 жыл бұрын

Yes, PLEASE, a parts list especially the billet intercooler. TIA

@joaquinquilez

2 жыл бұрын

@@gme5802 I would love a list of items with links to stores. I am going crazy trying to find these parts and the right sizes for my van. Pleeeease?

Will it freeze if the van is parked for a long time ie. 3 days? Will there be hot water if your parked at a campground for 3 days?

why take pipe insulation off in summer? hope to understand!!

really interesting, so not sure if it's been asked already but what happens if you're stopped for more than 2 days and no shore power, in other words, how long would you have to idle your engine build up a decent amount of heat?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I mentioned in the video that this water heater also has a 120VAC heater coil immersed in the tank. Turn on the inverter and turn on the heater. 750W so it takes a little bit of time to heat up, but that's another way to make hot water with this set-up.

Thanks for sharing tour knowledge. Instead of adding water to air heat exchangers in order to cool the glycol in the summertime, why not just stop the pump? It wouldn't boil the water to water glycol stationary part as the boiling point is way higher...

@TheShadowVortX

2 жыл бұрын

* your knowledge

Awesome setup...however those marine systems are VERY expensive...

My 40 year old winnebago has a heater in the back that uses the antifreeze from the engine radiator. I just took out the heat exchanger and blower and used the hoses to install a closed loop system around my cold water to heat it up for the shower and washing machine. With all due respect there is no need to use a second reservoir in the back for a second heat exchanger, every time you use a heat exchanger you lose efficiency. Why not just pipe the antifreeze from your radiator to the water tank. Amd skip the extra exchanger and glycol reservoir. Just a thought.

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

He deliberately did not type a chassis anti-freeze back to my system for a most important reason. If anything were to happen to those lines, the vehicle is in operable with my set up. If anything happens to the lines only the water heater is in operable. And I did want to step back on the efficiency of the system. A pro master runs normally at 215° with the heat exchangers in place. I am still making 170° water which is rather hi it’s Spaulding so anything I can do to step it down I’ll do.

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

I deliberately did not pipe the chassis anti-freeze back to my system for a most important reason. If anything were to happen to those lines, the vehicle is in operable, with my set up, If anything happens to the lines only the water heater is in operable. And I did want to step back on the efficiency of the system. A pro master runs normally at 215° with the heat exchangers in place. I am still making 170° water which is rather hot

@steverix1149

Жыл бұрын

If the heat exchanger is still in your engine bay, how you have it, but you're pumping your water through it to heat it directly, then if anything happens to the lines under the chassis you will only lose the water and not a load of glycol. Correct me if I'm wrong and thanks for taking the time to make the video.

Hey George, Thanks so much for Another Very Nice Video! I plan to do mostly winter traveling to avoid the crowds plus I like winter better than summer. Have you considered preheating the engine (H-12 option for a Sprinter), but instead of spending $1200 for a factory install, just incorporate it into your plumbing system using the Espar Hydronic S3 D5E? I plan to use two motorized valves in my glycol lines for turning it on and off. Plus, I want one system without the separating heat exchanger just to MAKE IT SIMPLE. I have driven over a million miles and I have never had a heater hose to blow and I bet you could say the same thing, so What is the BIG DEAL ? I know no one recommends this! With all the safety warning electronics build into the Sprinter I am sure I would know if a line blew, and I would just FIX IT!

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I installed an Espar Hydronic system in my first van build. Did not like the idea of firing up a diesel furnace all Summer long every time I needed hot water. Since you will be mostly in colder climates, that will not be an issue.

If the water stays hot for up to two days could you add a cabin heat radiator to the system and use the retained heat to heat the van overnight?

@foobarturkey

2 жыл бұрын

Yes this could work but I don’t think you would get too much energy out of it.

Just watched the video from Van Land, they installed the same heat-exchange water heater but under the chassis. Maybe it's a good idea to solve the issue of having a high-temperature heat source in the chassis in summer.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

While I agree it is a fine, rugged piece of equipment, but the Isotemp is not made for exterior mounting. It is from the marine world, where its intended use is in the bilge or engine room.

@eq2046

2 жыл бұрын

@@HumbleRoad Right, just figured out they're using a different brand, the "SureCal 20 liter / 5.28 gal Horizontal Single Coil Calorifier". Having read through the product description, this one seems better for interior use, too.

@trent_mcneely7554

2 жыл бұрын

ha! I just watched that video too before finding this one. I think they're also running the actual radiator water through their system as well, so when those exposed hoses and fittings under the van break, and they will, the van is going to lose all coolant and overheat.

Great idea! Just watched a video by Silvercymbal regarding coolant hose clamps. Might have to agree with him that ring clamps are not meant for coolant hoses. Need to use spring clamps that apply constant clamping pressure no matter if the hose and nipple are hot or cold. The ring clamp might allow a coolant hose to leak depending on temperature.

George, any need for thermal expansion valves for safety? Or is it that the system is not under constant pressure that this is not needed?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

The reservoir cap has a 5lb pressure release for the glycol. The water heater has a pressure release valve which drains outside the van.

Is more to the point of keeping the engine system separate is providing proper temp for the engine to operate optimally? Does it drop the engine temp a bit. ICEs need heat to combust

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

I've got two of these vans out in the wild, one full time for over a year now. No issues. If the chassis coolant was run all the way back to the water heater, then yes, I see what you are thinking.

One question. Why a secondary system? Why not just send the water you use up to the heat exchanger?

Could you mount it under the van?

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

The reservoir has to be the highest point in the system

From my understanding, there are 3 pumps. One for the glycol, One for the hotwater to exchange with the glycol and another to refill the hot water tank after use. Just to be sure I understood, how many pump are needed in this solution?

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

One pump

What about a Truma Combi? Does having propane on board suck that bad that you are going to all the trouble/expense to install separate water heater and a Webasto heater.

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

It’s more about redundancy. And better use of energy. My hot water system is passive, utilizing the energy from the engine that would otherwise go wasted.

Firstly, love your work - great build quality and attention to detail with excellent functionality. For the glycol system, what would be the outcome if glycol was to leak, for any reason, from the heat exchanger within the water tank?. As a sweet tasting but toxic substance, could such an event pose a serious health risk, to a person that was routinely consuming water with other sweeteners (cordials) masking the taste? Loss of glycol in the header tank would, at some stage, alert a person to the issue of a leak and rate of dilution would vary dependant on the severity of any potential failure within the exchanger -, could it be a risk worthy of consideration for discussion with the manufacturer and precautionary advice to owners?

@HumbleRoad

Жыл бұрын

The heat exchangers in the water heaters are double walled. The particular brand I use has a near perfect track record. Also the color of the glycol would alert you to the problem almost immediately.

@driveandsurvive

Жыл бұрын

@@HumbleRoad Thanks, the double walled exchange tubes is reassuring.

@MultiOutdoorman

7 ай бұрын

I don't know of anybody that drinks from their hot water supply source. We have a separate cold supply and a water filtration system, for just the small drinking water tap !

@driveandsurvive

7 ай бұрын

@@MultiOutdoorman Some people may use the hot water because they have run out of the main supply and just take advantage of what's left, or use hot water to get a head start on further heating water for cooking. Regardless of the frequency of the risk, it's more about the severity of the potential outcome and the need for robust design and end user awareness.

I am surprised this type of system does not set a engine code P0128. The engine's operating temperature not reaching a specified temperature within a given time.

would it be possible to disconnect the system easily in the summer and reconnect it in the winter?

@HumbleRoad

8 ай бұрын

Just turn off the pump

Does this system also have a furnace to heat the glycol that uses the fuel from the gas/diesel tank or is it electric/engine heated only? Do you use this glycol to heat the van by running it through a air heat exchanger?

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

No, this is simply to make hot water as described.

Are you still using glycol loop systems in your current vans or have you switched to a different system? THX!

@HumbleRoad

7 ай бұрын

Yes! But I am about to install the new AquaHot D

what brand of bus bar for a lithionics 630 battery install would u suggest is the best

@HumbleRoad

2 жыл бұрын

make sure the bus bar amp rating exceeds the amps you intend to push through it.