When I had my machine shop, I used to set my clearances with a microscope then walk the cutter in. I always did this work on a vertical milling machine. I always got very accurate results.

Every time I watch your videos now I'm reminded of the immortal Ron Durkee

I use feeler gauges all the time in my machine shop. Yes, I have a DRO. I use them together.

Hows your tshirts with the logo coming?

Hows the tshirt project coming with your logo?

so... 25 yrs of machining... never owned a set of feeler gauges (had a .005 .0015 and a hand full of .020's but that was it) on the subject of collets and ground flats, for CNC stuff I always tried to use solld set screw holders, the collets and the "heat shrunk" holders simply aren't as rigid, and if yer pushing for production, you will find the failure point of a collet vs solid holders.

@camillosteuss

2 күн бұрын

I would assume that a heat shrink system with the induction machine would be more rigid... A screw indeed offers a ridiculous amount of resistance and positive fixturing, but a properly ground cylinder that gets clamped by an equally properly ground cylinder that wants to occupy the same volume that the shank of the tool does should offer some bestial amounts of retention and frictional clamping due to ``enormous`` amount of contact surface... A weldon simply relies on close fit for the shank and on the surreal properties that a single screw can provide, but i don`t see it really outperforming a high grade heat shrink system... It is also almost bound to be less balanced and less precise than a heat shrink would be on account of geometry itself... Now, this is purely theoretical on my side, as my machining knowledge comes from around 15 years of zealous study and maybe a few dozen hours of actual machining, but some aspects of theory do indeed translate 1 to 1 from theory to practice... Tho sure, the collets are the ultimate compromise that is most favored for it`s general ease of use and flexibility that it provides, but they do not beat a properly arranged set of custom solid toolholders that also fit into your toolgrinder for near instant retouching should there be need for any(which there invariably will)... And keep in mind that my setup is oriented in the custom parts, rather than mass production format, so my preference is not to just replace dull tooling... The wastefulness of modern production in some aspects is both remarkable and sickening, but let me not get into politics... Best regards!

@northmanlogging2769

2 күн бұрын

@@camillosteuss Now the heat shrink stuff does balance better, and when used CORRECTLY they hold pretty good, but one moron overheats it and its junk or if it crashes its junk, or if hte tool breaks or... Anyway they work good for high RiPMs... but not well enough to warrant me ever buying one.

@camillosteuss

2 күн бұрын

@@northmanlogging2769 fully agreed! Tho, you can always edm hole sink and pull the broken tool out with an expanding mandrel... Also, that is why i said a system, the heat shrinks are best relied upon with a machine that heats them with induction, as those are spot on, never overheat, quick as fuck and allow for proper and quick insertion, rather than fiddling with a torch and grabbing a tool and all that jazz routine... Now, speaking of crashing, that is an issue of a different sort entirely... Cheers!

@northmanlogging2769

2 күн бұрын

@@camillosteuss lol, yeah... theres a reason I got out of production machining... too many slack jawed yockals running things... so if they had the induction heater, it was always set incorrectly, or broken, so they would use a torch and cook em until bright red, then complain about the bit slipping or running out... I have a shop of my own now, but its just manual stuff, nothing fancy at all.

@camillosteuss

Күн бұрын

@@northmanlogging2769 Same thing here, minus the prior career experience... A home shop in the making, based solely on the love of old machines and the remarkable art that is machining... I plan on converting some machines to cnc, as i picked up a few automatic lathes, one of which can be turned into a multi axis cnc machining center moreso than a mere lathe, but alas, at the moment, i`m like a fart stuck between the cheeks... Best regards and best of wishes with the shop! May your tolerances be perfect and machines immaculate!

Shouldn't you be working on shirts? Can those gauges tell us how much closer we are to getting them? Love the content and thank you. ...now get on those shirts.

Good morning everyone

Air cut = smoke break.

Paper, when the cutter takes the paper away from you, you are now very close. Or layout fluid, when it goes from blue to shiny you have touched it... or at least that is how i do it

@camillosteuss

2 күн бұрын

requires some real fine infeed to do so with marker blue... definitely among the more precise methods, even when compared to some modern electronic touch probes, at least when done properly, but again, requires some really fine infeed or graceful and careful use of generally rough machine infeeds offered by handwheels... Most mills move what, 0.02mm per line, which is what, 0.001in and even less, but for thin black or blue film, you need near micron of half-tenth`s movements, which is not easy to do if you have to literally barely move your hands on the wheels... My s.g. and edm sinker move in 0.002mm and 0.001mm or micron increments, which is less than 1 tenth and less than half a tenth, depending on the axis... Those are some nice increments to work with blue touchoff, but mills and lathes with their mongrelous movements are quite the uncooperative little hobgoblins when it comes to precise touching off... The thickness of sharpie mark in blue or black is around 120 millionths of an inch or around 3 micron, or around just a tad over 1 tenth of a thou, which makes it easy to overdo it... I know that EDM does not touch off, but i`m just mentioning the machine`s infeeds as an example of more friendly setup for such requirements... Also, that EDM can do jig grinding, so it is not that far fetched to use it as an example that could touch off in such a manner, but then again, jig grinding would find that to be a mongrelously crude and imprecise method... I suppose a microscope or a swing arm mikrokator would be better suited for such locating requirements... Best regards!

@oldreliable303

2 күн бұрын

@@camillosteuss i did mostly tool and die, now its welding and repare work, and have set up and ran 80s cnc machines, have never had a dro on a machine, just dial indcaters and the dial on the machine. But what i do making tools is not the same as the part making or repares he does

What happened to your setup block where it looks like it has weld sputter on it? Oopsie with the welding setup or a cheap set of what looks like 2 4 6 blocks? Love your content and your personality! You and your boys keep it up! Also why are you climb milling on a manual mill or is it because of the size of the machine and the light pass? Does it leave a better surface finish? Was it just more convenient than running the table back to conventional mill?

@HOWEES

3 күн бұрын

We have about 30 of those blocks, some get used for everything & others are still new in the box. I was climb milling to reduce wear & it was OK to do because of the small cut, conventional usually gives the better surface finish, but not always.

What's with the big slits in the machine head? kzread.info/dash/bejne/m2yspLWIj8_cqps.htmlsi=Xs4QKlWir1XAprwn&t=160

@HOWEES

5 күн бұрын

On the opposite side is the bolt for tightening the overarm ram, they do this to let the casting flex, all the 2mh models are made this way, I have 3 of this model.

@djfaber

5 күн бұрын

@@HOWEES Ah okay, I thought it might be for something like that, but the cuts looked so sloppy (maybe because of the swarf) that it looked like the machine had angered someone with an angle grinder =)

@camillosteuss

2 күн бұрын

@@djfaber nah, you can see that the position of the cuts indicates a flexure design, and the cuts appear to indicate a slitting saw rather than a zip disc as the source of the injury... I suppose a radiused slitting saw would have been a more sophisticated method of achieving a more proper result, or even a fine grinding disc as a finishing touch, but that would require a beast of a machine to wield this whole casting and still have room for head travel and a large grinding disc... Or the bottom of the saw cuts could have ended in drilled holes, that would require a horizontal mill-borer which likely made this machine in the first place, so it`s not outside the realms of possibility that it could have been done better...