Thank you for the "feeler" info & how to apply it. Also for the crochet needle thing as a way of attending to a spring. Your advive can solve some problems, and keeps us playing when we don't have access to our repairer. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You keep the playing happening. Regards to you.

Our repairman suggests heating the keys with the flame at an angle to avoid burning other things, although the masking techniques you suggest are reasonable options.

I love your videos. The feeler made of mylar and a popsicle stick is in "genius at work " mode! I repadded my 1912 all metal clarinet and thought I had ruined it. Sounds great now! Thank you so much!

Thanks for putting these up!

This was very helpful. Rubber bands saved my life!

This is helpful thanks!

Thanks a million 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

very good video I like interesting thanks

The Ohaus spring hook tool for lab balances is the best I have found. . During WWII repairing any & all brass instruments was big business due to shortages of brass to make shells. This made new horns non-existent. The old 1983 issue USMC flatware field knife makes a good pad slip. I also use them in luthrie work to an extent. Artist's pallet knives also work well too. I have a 1960s R13 to restore. Seeing the cracks filled with wax made my heart sink.

Thanks for your videos, very helpful. I have 3 clarinets on the way (including an alto) that were advertised as needing pads and cork, so I'll be try some of your techniques out. A couple of questions - 1) for heating the pads, would it make sense to slip in some tin foil to protect the wood/plastic? 2) for protection from the needle springs, how about using small rubber bits (i.e. erasers) on the tip? Thanks!

Nice work. Cheers from someone who has bled from his flute springs.

helpful....

It's like field medicine for instruments!

That's an interesting technique to try fixing a leak caused by the pads, though I'd be worried of ruining the vintage silver finish on my clarinet by putting a flame to it! Can pads also be changed this way or does one need to remove the keywork completely? Thanks for the great series of videos.

@Lalaland.001

5 жыл бұрын

I would always remove the keywork if I change pads. An silver doesn't get tarnished or ruined using a blue flame. Which is why he uses and alcohol burner, you could also use one f those blue flame lighters, but they are extremely hot, so the time on the keywork is really short. Hope that helps.

@sgilx

5 жыл бұрын

@@Lalaland.001 The flame in general seems awkward ot me. What about applying the tip of a clean electric soldering gun, the more delicate kind that you use for electronics? One wouldn't even need to touch the metallic finish, just get it close enough to heat the pad cup - perhaps against a small buffer material?

@tamasfoldesi2358

Жыл бұрын

@@sgilx It wouldn't work as well. There's a reason why every tech uses either a flame or hot air.

On 2 of my clarinets, the middle staff B right at the break needs to be help in conjunction with C to make a sound. As if the level by itself does not block the hole well enough. Any ideas anyone on how to fix this? 'd really appreciate that and I think it may be very common.

@tamasfoldesi2358

Жыл бұрын

Either the cork/felt on the right hand C key is missing or compressed, or the padcup of the C key is bent up or the padcup of the B key is bent down. If there is a gap between the fork shaped part of the right hand C key and the B key, then it needs a thicker cork. Otherwise bending back the keys to where they're supposed to be solves the issue, but I'd recommend you to take it to a pro if you want great results.

Those little clear plastic earring backs would work too.

Ok

There is an error in your guide. I will assume you meant to say that ABS will be critically damaged by Acetone and Methyl Alcohol but not IPA. There is a chemical compatibility chart for ABS here: www.kelco.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/abs-chemical-compatibility-guide.pdf.

You need to fire your cameraman. Not close enough, out of focus, too jittery. Gosh.