Damn this was exactly what I needed to hear. TYVM

Really useful. I am currently making a 3d printed developing jar and have some concerns about materials, but I think PETG can handel it well.

I love this series of videos. Keep them going. Especially with the developers.

Very helpful info.

Thanks for the info about what the upsweft curve means. Explains why I have to expose films longer when developed in HC-110. I use a syringe to measure the pure concentrate.

grate video! thanks for the shout out lol!

Great video as always. I'm looking forward to you doing a c41 one, I found the SDS for the fuji hunt kit quite obscure

@Shaka1277

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! I'm still thinking about how best to approach a C-41 video and probable eventual E-6 video. Currently leaning towards each component getting its own video so that there isn't a single 80-minute video to chew through. If I do that, I'd like to compress the release schedule a bit so they aren't months apart, but without releasing them all on the same day.

That's why I like Adox XT-3, which is basically vitamin C.

@Shaka1277

5 ай бұрын

Absolutely, me too! I need to cover these "OGs" for context before I dive into those more modern alternatives from Adox, Bellini, etc.

Thanks for the excellent info. I was using Euro HC, which is frankly brilliant, if a little expensive at the time, so I moved onto the original Kodak HC110 and had mixed results, to the point where I didn't trust it. I upped my mixing regime, remembering to shake the bottle before I started, and that helped. I think, after watching this, I will give it an extra round of stirring. Did you know there is a free android app with dilution calculators and push and pull calculators in it.

@Shaka1277

9 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful! What did you find different about the results the two developers gave you?

@peterkay9050

9 ай бұрын

@@Shaka1277 the Bellini Euro HC was thinner and required no special mixing, it worked beautifully using the times on Massive Dev and data sheets. It was more contrasty than the Kodak but I now think that was down to my handling. I loved the results, that's why I paid my £40 for the Kodak. I still have ¾ of a bottle of HC110 so plenty of time to fall back in love. I also use caffenol, Rodinal, and one you need to try, Adox FX-39. It is an acutance developer but less extreme than Rodinal. The results with fomapan200 were excellent and the new formula lasts a couple of years. It is like liquid D76 but its hard to find.

I'd love to see one of these about Kodak Xtol which, supposedly, is the most environmentally friendly, mass manufactured developer (relatively speaking). Nevertheless I still worry about handling it though

@Shaka1277

Жыл бұрын

It's on the list, for sure :) I want to get some experience with Adox XT-3 first so I can offer a decent perspective on both before I do this, though.

@evanduffy1015

Жыл бұрын

@@Shaka1277 Thats great! I've never heard of XT-3, but from Adox's page it sounds like it addresses all of my fears about xtol, I'll probably pick some up once I'm out of xtol. I'm excited for the video! (Edit: oof seems like its not super available in the US at least right now)

Geez the concentrate is so much darker than I ever see it. We go through it so fast it doesn’t have time to oxidize 😂

Start with Kodak's own evaluation that HC-110 is the its worst performing developer in terms of grain and sharpness. Add the information here regarding its toxicity. It seems to me that you have to look long and hard to find an excuse to use this stuff. Storage life sure would not justify its existence for me. I can see that large format sheet processing mitigates Kodak's input, where grain and sharpness of the film/developer are functionally irrelevant. Otherwise, why bother with its relative risks where so many other products will do better overall?