Good stuff as always Joe, cheers.

Excellent as always Joe. It blew close to where I thought it would, and the arc energy atomized the tracings with it. You could get another blast off that meter by doing the 10A input.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Too funny.. Three blasts were just not enough!

It is incredible how good meters you can buy today for the price of a snack.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I agree. My first Fluke was still the most I have ever paid for a battery powered meter and this thing would out perform it in every way.

Wild ride for the little trooper-! Really pretty surprising for such a cheap meter to make it to 3,000 volts with virtually no input protection. These and the little Aneng 8008 and 8009 's are a good value for low current/volt hobby use.

Thanks for that very comprehensive test. I have just bought a clone of this meter badged as a Richmeter 102 and you have given me confidence in its robustness.:-)) My only worry is finding replacement fuses in the event that I'm dumb enough to blow them.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I think this meter did better than most of us ever expected. Those were some VERY small fuses.

@JUANKERR2000

7 жыл бұрын

joe smith - I checked mine with my AD584K voltage reference last evening and it is remarkably accurate, certainly up there with my Fluke 73 up to 10 volts DC. Sadly I do not have current and capacitance references to check those ranges but it appears good enough when I check 1 % tolerance resistors. I don't think I'd like to use it on domestic mains voltages (240 v) but for electronic bench work it is more than adequate and phenomenal value for money.

Excellent review. THANK YOU...

Looks like a nice little meter.

Hi joe, my name is also joe! great testing, though those meters you showed with the black burns looks like at least 15KV have arched across them? or I should say how much voltage are you applying on the last explosion test?

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Normally when I run that test, I apply a little under 5KV. It's actually less voltage than what I had ran in the tests just prior to this. It's not the voltage that causes the black burns. I can draw and arc to my fingers with that piezo grill ignitor with no concern of being burned and that is more on par with your 15KV open circuit number. The damage you see is due to the energy available from the second low voltage generator. The low energy, high voltage generator one will cause the initial break down. Once there is an arc, you have a very low impedance load. The second generator then feeds it. If a meter, like the Fluke 101 were testes with this setup, nothing would happen. This is because I am limited to about 6KV with the low energy generator and that is not enough to cause the 101 to break down.

sooo... should i but this or the 860b?

Great testing of the meter but didn't care about the other stuff, wish it was a separate video. Did a quick look at this one but under the Kasuntest, and the big brother 4 hole version under Aneng, but didn't do any testing. You can also find them under other brand names. Kind of like the small one better though the four hole type is inherently more safe. The blue of the big brother is a soft vinyl ring that has an awful vinyl smell and the selector knob was too stiff though it is breaking in.

I've noticed that sometime diode show up as 4M resistor. Maybe 8M is 2 diode in series.

It would nice if some release a video of hack that is available for AN8001/AN8002 multi meter using eeprom i think .

At that little Kyser voltage tester, what about the resistance between the side of the battery that doesn't connect to the poking end, does that go to the touching end?

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Yes, the battery is connected directly to side contact where your finger goes. So about 8meg and a couple of button cells between you and the line.. I have no idea what they are using for the divider.

Not bad for the price I think.

What kind of LED package style would you recommend for the UT61E backlight mod?

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I don't ever recommend modifying a handheld meter. It's better to buy one that meets your needs.

Kinda rooted for this meter. Always loves the underdog. Fast continuity test on that sucker! Wouldn't mind having one of those in my glove compartment, but I guess you can't find them in Europe...

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

It's not the worse meter I have looked at for sure. It's inexpensive, small, large display with a backlight, TRMS, fairly loud continuity test and reads temperature. Still has the crap banana connectors, odd ball fuse size, leads don't look all that impressive and no cert. It held up better than the Fluke 87V which I see referred to as the gold standard.

A little service info.... This meter is branded also Zotek 102...mine just arrived... Feels plastic but it's quite fast considering 12 /13 dollars of cost.

Ordered one from Banggood for $14, I don't do anything crazy, for my needs this should be an excellent portable meter for work. Should be a huge upgrade over my manual ranging Harbor Freight free meter that I've been using for years haha

Hey Joe, I purchased this little meter awhile back and I noticed a pretty major flaw. It seems that if you put enough pressure on the selector knob while the leads are plugged in, it will screw up the mode in which the meter is set.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I bet every meter I have will screw up if I put enough pressure on them. Now where is that shop vice... This one seemed fine as far as the selector switch.

@nu_types2677

7 жыл бұрын

Haha, I suppose it could just be that I'm being a little too heavy handed with it. Either that, or I have a lemon. Thanks for the reply. Keep up the great work!

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

If it's new, you could just return it. If it were mine, I would just pull it apart and correct the problem. You can't expect too much for $15.

@nu_types2677

7 жыл бұрын

This is true. Yeah, its so cheap, I wouldn't mind fixing it myself. Thanks again, Joe.

Hello, Joe, Thank you for the detailed review. I want to buy a multimeter for my home and not spend a fortune on it. I would like to use it to measure both the voltage and amperage and sometimes even the resistance. Could you perhaps explain briefly why you test all functions except for the amperage? Thank you very much and keep it up!

@joesmith-je3tq

6 жыл бұрын

My advice is not to buy a meter at all and stop watching these videos. You may be better served watching videos about using your first meter. I'm not trying to be harsh, but the fact that you even asked the question, I suspect these videos will cause you more confusion than anything else. That said, because you did ask here are a few reasons. HRC fuses are fairly expensive and some times hard to source. I rarely use the current feature of a handheld and have little interest in how robust it is. Because these videos are more about how electrically robust a meter is and not a typical unboxing review where I hook up some resistors and call it a day. I am pushing these meters to failure to see how they compare. Pushing the current input this way is not something I am set up to do. I am testing at fairly low energy levels. If you would like to see where I have a look at the high current inputs for these meters in particular, you may find the video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mHtqk9hxhcrgcZs.html Again, that video is not showing what would happen if you went line to line on a 480 bus. So don't read more into it than what it is.

@zahlenbrett

6 жыл бұрын

In fact, I didn't seem to fully understand the meaning of your videos. While searching for the multimeter I came across your video and thought that you were testing it for its safety and quality. Kind of a Tear-Down kind of thing. Thanks anyway.

Thx, man! You really blew my mind! LOL! :*)

Excellent review. Actually, the only decent review. I could find. Ordered the meter.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

It's a pretty tough little meter with a lot of features for the price. Wish they had used a more standard fuse size.

I have that tester, not bad for the price

I have one of those Kysers. The pad at the back is only used as a continuity tester. The led will still light when brought into contact wit A/C without touching the end pad.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Interesting Billy. From the manual "FOR TESTING VOLTAGE: Insert screwdriver probe into outlet or carefully touch probe to electrical contact or conductor to be tested. Touch finger or hand to the metal contact on the side of the tester handle. DO NOT TOUCH THE SCREWDRIVER PROBE. If voltage is present the LED indicator will glow."

@billywhizzy

7 жыл бұрын

Maybe it's a slightly different model. Take the thing out of a mains socket...touch the tip with one finger of left hand and the pad with the other hand and see if the led lights (when you have batteries in it) or plug a 3v source if you do not have the lr44 batteries. watch the polarity

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Right, for continuity the manual states "When testing continuity disconnect power and remove fuses from circuit or component being tested. Touch probe on one end of the conductor to be tested while placing finger or hand on metal plate on the tester handle; take your other hand and complete the circuit on the other end of the conductor. If continuity exists the LEC indicator will glow." I still have the batteries installed from the demo. With 4M ohm between the tip and plate, the LED will glow fairly bright. At 5M ohm, it's fairly dim. With 7M, it is difficult to tell if it is glowing. From 1 ohm to 1M, there is some slight dimming of the LED. Mine has about 1.5V between the tip and plate. As the load is applied, the LED will begin to glow with about 1 V across the two conductors. With yours, if you connect 12V AC to the tip and leave the other side floating in air the LED glows? Mine will not do that. I have to touch the metal plate before it will glow. With higher voltages, I can imaging any dirt, humidity, etc would be enough resistance to get it to glow.

@billywhizzy

7 жыл бұрын

Nope...with 12v A/C @50hz it does not light with or without completing the pad circuit with my finger.(probably a high internal impedance does not give enough power to the led to light.) It only lights at around 50V a/c through my variac. Continuity it works when I complete the circuit. Remember that for continuity it is your body that is completing the circuit. I only use it with both batteries installed because at 1v i do not think that there would be enough current to light the led.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Strange. Mine will detect 12VAC when used as the manual describes. So with 50VAC from your autotransformer, you can attach it only to the screwdriver tip and leave the rest of the screwdriver float and the LED will glow?

Super

I paid less than $15 including shipping for that meter, and even it isn't perfect, its a damn good meter for that money! Feature rich, precise and compact. if the make the protection better and sell it for $20 it would be a killer

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I agree. I would go so far as to drop the current features to gain the room to make more robust. I'll run the higher end version of this meter later on. Maybe it has better protection.

@MaxAirGo

7 жыл бұрын

The big brother, ie. AN860B+ , ZT17B+, looking forward to the side-by-site. A youtuber "Artur's Lab" says the AN860B+ can only measure up to 8MHz.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

The one I have is marked KT6000, which I believe is an AN860B. It can measure AC/DC uA, Relative, mikn/max and does not share the current connector. It's marked 20A on the high current input. Also marked CAT IV 600V, with 250V glass fuses.

I bought two AN8002 @ $13.88/ea USD...just got them..n I'm fairly displeased. the readings are accurate n it's function is good BUT, the screen contrast isn't great and the backlight times out too fast and the damn backlight function hidden behind the hold is a right pain in the ass. also here's where it gets complete shit got two, came in the same bag, no box, wrapped in a dirty bubble wrap bag. one has a dim, yellow backlight and one is bright cool white...one with the crap light has a good buzzer and the one with a good light has a barely audible buzzer! so between the two, I'd i do surgery, I can end up with one decent meter and one I don't want anywhere near me while working on projects...so yeah I got banged good!

Hi, please check an8002 health after a piezoelectric element shots.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I would if I could but once the meter was damaged I did not replace it.

@user-dx1bk5fs1e

7 жыл бұрын

Ok, thank you!

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

Keep in mind the new gun is much worse than the piezo grill starter ever was.

In the $20 class that does seem to punch above its weight in robustness.

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I agree. Also surprised it did this well.

Yo vine a ver cuándo esplota el multímetro aneng an8002 fue en el minuto 30:25 pero no sé cuánto voltaje soportó alguien sabe a qué voltaje esplotó

you should do a video on hold peak HP multimeter

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I ran one.

@mochaguerrero261

7 жыл бұрын

joe smith can I gat a link to that please

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

main page, playlists, handheld meter testing season II. The meters were ran as a batch so the holdpeak is in each level up to where it failed.

just picked one up recently, i expected worse.

Not clear - who is on left??

@joesmith-je3tq

4 жыл бұрын

www.makeuseof.com/tag/how-to-ask-questions-online-actually-get-answers-opinion/

@ivan868

4 жыл бұрын

@@joesmith-je3tq Still not clear - who is the left (in red)?

@joesmith-je3tq

4 жыл бұрын

@@ivan868 ARe you asking about this meter? kzread.info/dash/bejne/eqaX2tCbm87Oico.html

Uhm, it clearly states a 440 Volt AC marking on the back at 1:47 ;)

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

No glasses on but I am glad you are able to read.

@weeardguy

7 жыл бұрын

Ah, I know the feeling ;) (though I usually have to wear them to be able to see anything, there are days I can do some things without them, but the risk of mistakes is a tad higher ;) )

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

The camera sees much better than my eyes. Viewing the video on the screen, it's easy for me to see the text without my glasses. Even when I catch problems like this in editing, I normally leave them. This video had far worse mistakes IMO. See my response to Cliff below...

I have this meter under "Richmeters 102" name

@joesmith-je3tq

7 жыл бұрын

I suspect a lot of companies rebrand it.

@netman69

7 жыл бұрын

joe smith definitely, thought I'd throw mine in the mix, to me it's good to have a bunch of names as thanks to the video and the comments i saved a few dollars getting another one. Also didn't know you did a video on this meter until i ran across it coincidentally. I like this meter for being so small, never expected it would survive your testing as far as it did. The size of the fuses made me laugh when i took it apart.

Another clone of this is the Zotek ZT102. And it cost about usd 11.

So it failed because you put far too much power through it... It's not designed for that right? Am I missing something here?

@joesmith-je3tq

3 жыл бұрын

The generators are limited to about 20 Joules. Nothing near what the IEC standards call for. Again, my goal isn't to prove is the meters are safe or not but to determine how robust they are. If a meter doesn't break down, the transient generator will absorb that energy internally. This is normally what happens with the better meters. The its tiny fuses, it would be fun to see one of these meters tested for arc flash. Even just running it though the real 61010 standards would be very entertaining.

I have Aneng AN8001 is very good. Version 8001 dosn't have temperature. I don't understand why this guy damages all multimeters?!?. In my opinion Fluke is shit! but Brymen are ok.