Nice video bro 😎👍 i did the "carlitos nutter"on my 1986 cj7 tho i got rid of ALL the vacuum lines except i kept the ones i really needed. I unhooked the carburator from the ecm got rid of all those wires, installed an HEI distributor installed a 4 row aluminum radiator and this thing runs alot smoother and steady and man this thing revs high is no joke. I might swap to a holey sniper fuel injection system later i gotta see how it behaves off road going up hill and different angles if it works good I'll keep the carb longer if i see it struggling I'll do the swap sooner... thanks again bro your vid is on point😎👍

Was this originally filmed on VHS?

Soldered connections, soldered connectors and heat shrink should always be used if electrical shorts and fires are something you wish to avoid with your vehicles

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

Normally , I use soldered connections for reliable connectivity but I’ve experienced work hardened breaks so since then I’ve used uninsulated connectors with shrink tube or liquid tape and just decide where I’ll use one or the other . I still believe a person’s experience works best for them though .

Did you cut the orange and purple wires from the ignition module before the plug? And just run them tho the distributor with the new wire you twist?

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

Six years too late but better late than never . Just found this video and no one got answers ? IDK , maybe a private reply . Don’t cut the wires between the ignition module and it’s harness plug , that’s butchering . Cut the orange and purple wires AFTER the plug and splice in a new section . Do the same for the distributor . I’m not at all sure whether one can just follow the harness from where it leads through the firewall above the heater core hoses . I would think the two wires come from the ignition module , through the ECM and to the distributor . Don’t know that it’s absolutely necessary to twist two wires together and run them from the distributor to the ignition module . Maybe bypass from closer where the wires enter the firewall . There should be two purples and two oranges , I would think ? Just connect them before they go through the firewall , bypassing the ECM . Just want to say , I’m not John nutter and I did not do the research and development so maybe there is a reason for the addition of the long added two wires . You can try the short bypass , but the long addition of twisted wires can still be done of that wouldn’t work . I installed and engine , trans and t-case from a 1985 cj7 ( it had an ECM ) into my 1980 cj5 ( no computer ) and made my own wiring harness where needed to complete the ignition module / distributor connection . Works fine and not the slightest idea how the original harness was made or routed . Just did it on my own . IF you find that the four wire plug ( four terminals ) from the ignition module becomes a three wire plug ( three terminals ) because either the violet or orange wire is deleted into the ECM but does exist the ECM to the distributor , you would have no choice but to jump over the disconnect plug and to splice into whichever wire is eliminated after the ignition module plug disconnect to connect it there . This is only if a four wire plug becomes a three wire plug and that a wire was eliminated . There may be specific model years that did this . Consult a wiring diagram if necessary .

Sounds like you got crank rod bearing clearance noise, I recommend 30 weight oil to take up that slack!! what do you gain with this procedure?

you simply used a T to rig the distributor vac line up to the line that was at the carb? you did not need to adjust the carb, just the timing to +8?

did you do the stepper motor?

No solder and heat shrink on those wire splices?

Did you cut the orange and purple wires from the ignition module before the plug, meaning the plug part that is not coming from the ignition module, the plug that plugs into the ignition modules plug? If I understand you correctly you are NOT connecting the new wires to the ignition module, you are bypassing it? So that would mean that you are connecting the new wires from the distributor to the old wires that went into the ignition module, correct? Thx, Tom

@markshort6049

6 жыл бұрын

I have the same question. I keep getting confused on this. Someone please explain simply what the routing is. Is it running the wires directly from the distributor to the wires coming out of the ignition module (in other words eliminating the ignition module)?

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

The ignition module is not eliminated , it is still connected to the distributor . The ECM connection is eliminated , therefore bypassed . Your just cutting off where the wires come from the ignition module , through the ECM and to the distributor . So , the orange and purple wire will go directly from the ignition module to the distributor as though there never was an ECM , like it was before computers when electronic ignition replaced points and condensers .

what about the black wire from the plug what you do with it

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

I don’t think the black wire ( ignition module and distributor ground ) was router through the ECM . The ECM usually has its own grounds though . The green wire to the ignition coil negative ( if applicable ) may not have been routed through the ECM either . The purple and orange wires go to the distributor pick up so that’s where the computer control comes in . Not sure if the ignition coil negative green wire is though . May just go straight from the ignition module to the ignition coil . Likewise for the black wire .

I have a 76 cj7 with 258 engine... I just switched to a 2 bbl gm tbi (fuel injection).. I have a prestolite ignition system.. Would you know how I could change to a duraspark ignition system? Do I need it connected to the computer? Thanks for the video. ")

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

Just found this video now on my page and don’t see any reply or assistance , thought I’d try to help ? On my 1980 Jeep CJ5 , I removed a GM four cylinder engine ( 151 iron duke ) with an HEI distributor . I installed a 258 AMC with duraspark ll ignition . The dash wiring and under hood wiring are from the 258 AMC from a 1985 CJ7 . Made installation easier . Honestly , all you would need is wiring harness connectors to match those of the distributor ( a duraspark ll series distributor ) and the two plugs originating from the ignition module , to be mounted on the left fender well below the master cylinder . The two wire plug into the ignition module ; the red wire is the ignition power from ignition switch and the white wire connected to a wire spliced or terminal connected to the blue solenoid starter wire ( crank signal ) . Of course these two wire have a second wire each go to the ignition coil positive ( red ) and starter solenoid relay ( blue ) S terminal . The purple and orange wires from the ignition module will go to the distributor harness connector for the distributor pick up . The distributor should have purple and orange wires . There should also be a black wire from the ignition module to the distributor harness connector which serves to provide ground for the ignition module and distributor . It’s recommended to add a ground to this black,wire ( spliced in ) for security . I grounded the added on wire to the ignition coil bracket . The green wire from the ignition module will go to the ignition coil negative connection . I know it’s been six years and you may have already worked this out but was just hoping to take from my experience on my build which is working fine and hoping it will help you . Wow , you’ve got a GM dual TBI , nice touch ! Of course it requires feedback from engine sensors but since the duraspark I installed didn’t need ECM feedback , and my two barrel BBD carburetor is non-feedback , no need for an ECM on my build . I don’t think your build requires an ignition feedback either , but I don’t know if you’ve employed the ECM or PCM for the TBI injection so don’t know if ignition system feedback ( Hall effect ) is required . I’m not a diagnostics professional , just an enthusiast , probably just as you are . I hope this helps , but hope was something that will contribute possibly in the future if need be .

@cj7girl280

3 жыл бұрын

@@gmoney9588 Hi, Thanks for the response. And although I appreciate it, I decided to just keep the 4.3 v6 engine (and th700r4 tranny) in my cj7 from the 88 s10 blazer I purchased as the donor vehicle. Well, at least for now. Yes, the engine operates with a hall effect distributor and has a ECM computer. But thanks again for your help. (PS. I'd prefer the fuel injection system over the carb as I can easily rebuild carbs, I am not able to find tune them... 😬 [when I purchased the cj7, it originally had a 258 I6 engine, a (broken) single carter carb with a AMC400 auto tranny]. But some reason the when I went to start the jeep, the starter chewed up the flexplate. So, instead of just replacing the engine, I did a entire drive-line and wire swap. I didn't know what I was getting myself into. Most the jeep guys said it was easy. Which, it probably was for them. ~So, dumb me, went forward. But, it was not so easy for me. Now, I know what and how to do an engine swap but wouldn't want to do another one without another Consistent partner/helper.. I did get some help from people but nothing that was experienced and consistent.

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

@@cj7girl280 I’m in agreement . Although I’ve come to appreciate the 258 I6 , you can’t beat the 4.3 v6 for an engine swap for any year CJ , especially Kaiser willys era with their shorter wheelbase and tighter engine compartment , not friendly for in line six cylinders . Besides , I know you must be VERY happy with the 4.3 v6 power and torque . I once changed a timing chain and gears and set distributor timing and that s10 boiled its tires out of the driveway . As far as engine swaps being easy , they’re all work and good help is hard to find , as you know . You’ve got a good winning combination now so I know you’ll stay with it . Even a purist knows there is pro’s and con’s to the 258 I6 and carter BBD 2 barrel but as long as you’ve got the most trouble free set up , and I think you do , you’ll be enjoying your Jeep more and wrenching on it less . I got nothing against wrenching , been doing it since I’m 13 ( 57 , almost 58 now ) but work is work . You want to drive it too , not just slave over it . Really hope it’s working well and your getting every mile out of it for a long time 😃 . To me, you’ve achieved success 👍 Ok , you said “ for now “ but that has me wondering “ is she planning a V8 swap ? “ maybe just a small block or even an LT1 or get totally rad and swing in an LS series 5.3 or..... ? Well , I’ll guess we will stay tuned . Wishing you best of luck . Stay safe and stay lucky ✌️ P.S. - thinking about it , I thought my build , a 1980 Jeep CJ5 with recently installed 258 I6 , T5 trans w/Dana 300 and very short rear driveshaft was a little radical but successful but I appreciate your build , knowing the potential of the V6 4.3 and the 700R4 as a sporty yet venerable build !

@cj7girl280

3 жыл бұрын

@@gmoney9588 If I change the engine I may get a 93 or so s10 or blazer engine as it would be balanced and I've heard is the true vortec engine. But, for now, I like the combo I have and love it's simplicity. I would have to say no to a v8 (which I know is the GM v6 4.3 with cylinders) but If I got the v8 I'd be too tempted to race people... And that's a bad thing in a cj7 as top heavy as they are. Your combo sounds great, although I am not familiar with the t5 tranny. I love the dana300 t-case. I have that on my cj7 too and used the Novak adapter to marry it to the GM 700. I like that the t-case is gear driven and not belt or chain. Anyways, thanks for sharing. Hope you stay safe and have a great 2021. 😉

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

@@cj7girl280 Whatever you decide for your final drivetrain/powertrain choice , I know you’ll enjoy it because you’ll be comfortable with the build YOU did , not someone else . The T5 is just a medium duty , if even that , five speed option the CJ7 had . Wasn’t available in the CJ5 because of space constriction . The rear driveshaft is only 12 5/8” center to center , that’s short ! Transfer cast and rear axle yoke in degrees measurement matters here BIG TIME to avoid vibration . Your welcome for the reply’s and wishing you a safe and happy 2021 and beyond too ! Love that Jeep and it will love you back ❤️ . P.S. - try to behave yourself out there , I know it’s not easy , I rip through the gears myself . But I’d like you to enjoy your Jeep with a smile , don’t want any harm to come to you . Be safe too 😉

will the jeep still pass smog

what are the advantages

WOuld you know how to do the nutter bypass on a 76 cj7 with 258? :0

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

Just found this video on my page , seven years too late . Hope/trust you’ve found a solution since ? Well , to the best of my knowledge , your 1976 does not have an ECM , commonly called an on board computer . To verify , look under the dash to see if there is a square aluminum box with a wiring harness plugged into it . I don’t suspect you’ll find one . This nutter bypass is meant for bypassing the ECM to pre-computer generation when the ignition controls module ( electronic ignition ) mounted commonly on Jeep CJ’s on the drivers side wheel well under the coolant overflow bottle ( if equipped ) . Two input wires from the ignition switch ( ignition power and starter solenoid signal ) and usually four wires ( black , green , violet and orange ) toward the distributor . The purple and orange are the signal wires to the distributor pick up . The black is the continuous ground for the ignition module and distributor ( it’s recommended to splice into this black wire and add a ground for security . The coil bracket worked for me ) . The green wire goes to the ignition coil negative post , usually via a plastic clip on connector . When an ECM was employed ( 1981 and later ? ) , the purple and orange wires went into and out of the ECM . They still originated from the ignition module and went to the distributor and ignition coil . The nutter bypass just eliminates the ECM ‘s control , which was said to be counterproductive in later years , possibly due to changes in octanes ? Well , the aim is to return to old school when it worked better BEFORE the age of computer command control ( a GM name ) . Well , if your Jeep ( trust you still own it? ) is devoid a “ computer “ no worries . Just thought it would be nice someone helped since no one else has been posted to your assistance .

Will you still need the ignition module?

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

Just thought I’d help . Yes , the ignition module is still necessary for ignition . The ECM is bypassed so the ignition system will work like pre - computer era Jeep’s . All that done is eliminating the ECM . The purple and orange wires will travel directly from the ignition module to the distributor , without going in and out of the ECM . The nutter bypass just takes your Jeep back to pre - computer operation .

BEFORE TOP dead center. Not bottom dead center lmao

@familycourt4045

4 жыл бұрын

Is that all you have to offer? Insults

@xraaurusreal97

3 жыл бұрын

It's funny because it's true, + it's not an insult, it's a correction. Little things like Mis wording can make a big difference in the procedures for someone that is willing to try, starting with 0% knowledge about ignition systems. 👍 Geez don't dont be so hostile ha ha

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

@@xraaurusreal97 Agreed , bottom dead center should be explained to someone who doesn’t know as a piston position , nothing to do with ignition timing . Also , to be explained to someone who may not know is BTDC is ignition timing in degrees . But that should have been the responsibility of the critic . Just saying .

@xraaurusreal97

3 жыл бұрын

@@gmoney9588 true true, maybe the critic was the victom to the trickery haha, that would be messed up but still funny, imagine that expression a mechanics face if you asked how to find bottom dead center haha. Should have just read all the comments and all the videos LOL

@gmoney9588

3 жыл бұрын

@@xraaurusreal97 Haha ! I know if I were asked , I’d respond with “ why ? “ I guess I would be trying to test their knowledge . I’m not a professional , just a diy’er . But sometimes we have to ask when we see comments such as those “ are you contributing to help or make yourself sound smart ? “ maybe they are knowledgeable but consider that some people are trying to ask for help , as you’ve stated . You know , writing a comment is not as tough as crawling under a car and pulling on a wrench . It’s a dying art and we got to thank anyone who’s left for keeping it alive . Glad you understand . ✌🏻